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Found 170 results

  1. Hello All, Its been several years since I've posted, but I come to you all for your wisdom. Patient: - 2008 outback XT limited, 5EAT, 157k miles, owned since ~152k miles Symptoms: - Transmission slipping, occasional hard shifts - RPMs rise when accelerating from a stop with non proportional increase in vehicle speed, bangs 2nd and 3rd gear sometimes. - "Rubbing sound" when car is running and is put in reverse or drive etc. Sound goes away when in park or neutral. The sound can be described as a light sand paper sound. May be the transmission bands slipping; I am not sure what the source of the sound is. - AT Fluid Temp light illuminates at times. first time i saw this light was after about 3 miles of some very low speed off roading. - Coolant Overheating on very large climb (3000ft, over 5 miles, in 90°+ heat) suspect partially related to ATF dumping heat into radiator. - AT fluid temp light illuminated on a 3 mile trip around town, immediately after recent maintenance*. Recent Maintenance: - Timing belt, water pump, thermostat, 11MM Oil pump, coolant temp sensor, coolant (radiator out), - Replaced ATF filter, refilled ATP to "full" mark using Subaru ATF while engine is running. - Power steering pump, engine oil cooler gasket, brakes, other unrelated blah blah My thoughts: - Intention was to replace the ATF as part of this job as well, but to keep issues separate the ATF change will be performed later. - Since the transmission was slipping prior to all the unrelated engine maintenance, (and only the ATF cooler and filter loop was opened, but refilled) the transmission should otherwise be slipping, heating up the flood, and shifting hard as it was prior to the radiator removal event. My questions: Any ideas as to what is causing the slipping? I suspect slipping and hard shifting is somewhat separate, as the hard shifting could be due to something valve body related. Should I proceed with a drain and replace of the ATF and return to full mark (while engine is running) or don't bother. Am I looking at a potential torque converter, valve body assembly, full transmission replacement? Thanks all! Related threads I've found: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/171114-outback-5eat-vs-cvt/?tab=comments#comment-1417184 https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/170318-5eat-blown-transmission-cooler-fitting/?tab=comments#comment-1411338 https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/171001-fb25-engine-reliability/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-1417221 https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/170658-transmission-engine-or-all-the-above/?tab=comments#comment-1413879 ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/170283-2005-turbo-xt-outback-exhaust-question/?tab=comments#comment-1411088 https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/170283-2005-turbo-xt-outback-exhaust-question/?tab=comments#comment-1411071 https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/169577-05obxt-vs-03-forester/?tab=comments#comment-1405536
  2. I have a 2010 Tribeca with 175k miles. I bought it used a few years ago without autoshop work papers or receipts, so I'm not sure what works been done. Overall, it drives smooth and without issues. Today my check engine light, AT Oil Temp, Cruise, and Traction control lights came on. I brought it to O'Riellys for a code read, and they said it was P0700. Today and a few weeks ago, I was at about 15 mph and accelerating slowly, and my car jolted hard, but it's only happened twice and at low gears. Can anyone give me some insight on what the issue may be, and how expensive it will be to resolve? Obvi my transmission is funky, but any info is helpful. And is it neccesary to bring it to a shop or is it a self doable fix?
  3. Hello fellow Subaru enthusiasts! I have been experiencing automatic transmission problems for many years and the time has finally come that I can avoid fixing it any longer. Since I acquired the car in 2011 there has been a intermittent problem with the duty-C selenoid, the transmission has been binding up around corners for a long time, but the car was given to me for free so I never took the time to replace the duty-C. I do not drive the car very far so I have gotten away with this for some time now. When I do drive the car over 15 miles, the transmission heats up and starts to whine under load. After about 30 minutes of driving the scratching/grinding noise between gears is awful, its so loud I feel bad driving it. I have done 3 transmission flushes over the last 6 years, the first flush was because my transmission cooler line broke while driving 60 mph uphill and dumped all my fluid. While refilling the transmission fluid I accidentally over filled it, and drove it like that for at least 2 years. This summer I start a new job that is about 110 miles away and I know my car won't make it, not even once. I need to replace the transmission, one with less miles that does not have quite the abuse on it. I plan to remove a transmission from a matching year legacy when one appears in the junkyard and swap that. Once I find a replacement transmission I plan to bring it to a shop and have them test it before I go through the trouble of swapping it out, but I am wondering if anyone has done a project like this before? If so, were there any unexpected issues that came up? What gaskets should I purchase before so I can change them all before I install it? Is there an item number for a kit with all the gaskets? Even better, does anyone have a link to a similar situation that someone has already posted? Thanks for the help everyone! 1993 Legacy L, 4-EAT 287,452 miles -Mike
  4. Hey super new. And there is probably a good forum you can point me to. But here is the issue I am having with my 1989 FWD GL. I just bought the car it has 100,000 miles and looks to be in ok condition. While driving it I noticed it was slow going in and out of gears and had a lot of trouble in reverse. When in reverse It would rev and slowly back up like a boat then it would get more traction and be fine. NBD I thought, it was old and cost me a couple of hundred bucks and when it goes bad I’ll put some hair on my chest and learn a bit more about cars. Lol. The next day while driving the transmission decides that going into gears isn’t cool. Press down on the gas and it revs like it’s in neutral. I check the fluids. (Which I promise I was going to do that that day.) Everything looks good except the ATF is empty. That can’t be good. So I fill it to proper levels at proper temps. Shift through the gears. Drain, clean the atf filter and pan. Refill. The car still doesn’t move. It’s not leaking any atf. Not a drop. So after some research I have a few ideas. Governor gear getting apple cored. Vacuum Modulator sucking atf into the engine and burning it. or A host of issues that all at up to transmission says no. THANKS IN ADVANCE!
  5. Hello all! I've owned several Outbacks in my life but the newest I ever owned was an '03; much has changed since then, obviously!!! I'm considering buying a late model (current generation) Outback with the 6 cylinder engine but am leery of CVTs in general. All the Subarus I've owned have been 4 cylinder, manual transmission vehicles. Knowing that the Outback hasn't been offered with a stick shift for many years I'm left to choose between a CVT and an "old school" automatic. I have two questions for you folks: 1. What was the last year that Subaru offered an automatic (that is, non-CVT) transmission in an Outback? 2. What are your general thoughts, pro v. con, concerning the Subaru CVT? FWIW, I will NEVER tow with a vehicle I own so that's doesn't even enter into my thinking on this. I welcome your input!!
  6. .•°}{°•.Jįhąbąrų.•°}{°•.

    88' EA82 Transmission Compatible With 83' Ea81??

    Hello, I Had Finally Worked Out All The Bugs With My 83' Subaru GL Wagon, D/R 4x4. - Previous Posting About It Falling On Its Face... The Other Day, Was Driving It And It Was Acting, As It Was Before, When My Fuel Filters Were Clogged. In Turn, I Was Heading To Get New Ones. I Had Turned Around, Headed Back Home. While Depressing My Clutch Pedal, I Heard A "Pop" Sound. Figured It Was My Cable. Inspecting Cable All Good, Minus The Slight Fraying Right At The Pedal. Checked Hill Holder Cable, Fine Too. - I Had Partial Clutch. Went into Gears, To Then Grinding Into Gears, To 1500' From My Driveway, At A 4-Way Intersection, No Gears At All. Whether The Car Is Running, Or Not, I Can't Get It Into Either 4-Gears, Or Reverse. I Am Leaving Tomorrow Morning, Moving To Oregon. Have To Leave Subi Behind. Just So Happens An, 88' Transmission Dual-Range For Sale Near By, $150 obo. -- Is It Compatible With My 83'? CV-Shafts, Bellhousing, Clutch, Etc.? Can I Just Drop Mine, Install This One No Modding? Thanks For Any/All Input!
  7. (updated with the answer) Symptoms: The transmission on my 5 speed 2000 Legacy GT (AWD) sounds like an angle grinder or go-cart (grinding/buzzing/putting noise). Started making noise overnight, in every gear and in neutral, sounds like something rotating/grinding and is proportional to the car's speed. When the car isn't moving there isn't any noise. Another interesting thing is that in 5th gear (possibly others, but most noticeable in 5th) it makes noise with 0 throttle, less noise with 1/8th throttle, and then more noise again if you go past that. What more knowledgeable friends have said: A trusted mechanic said it's probably a bearing in the transmission, but he doesn't work on them so I'm not confident he knows the exact issue. A good friend said he had a similar issue on his 2000s era Forester, and it was the center differential, but I've heard that if the differential is the issue, the symptoms will get worse while making tight turns, and I haven't experienced that, at least at low speeds. Possibly relevant info: I had a rear tire replaced this past summer, they didn't shave it down. I measured them and it was essentially the same size. Maybe a small difference in diameter caused an issue? ANSWER: I'm transcribing from the mechanic so this may not be 100% accurate: The transfer gear was split, which damaged/destroyed center differential (and the back clip came off). The transfer case damaged as well. The mechanic said it was just normal wear and tear, so I'm not sure if this had anything to do with one of the tires being replaced.
  8. Hey guys, I got my 85 FrankinSoob GL with EJ22 swap. I have a few questions about some future build plans. Rather than have a bunch of posts I thought I'd only compile one. So here it goes A) Has anyone played with the gearing in the stock EA 5speed with the dual range? I really like this transmission, but it doesn't quite have the gearing for today's highway speeds. I want to lengthen the ratios for 4 and 5 to where I can cruise at 80 comfortably. Or is it just best to do the trans swap? B)Does anyone know the weight difference between the EJ and EA flywheels? I want to lighten the EA flywheel a little bit to get higher rpm without harming the engine. But also not enough to loose a substantial amount of low end torque. I read a build thread that mentioned using the XT flywheel, but finding one of those in my area might be a little hard. C) Lifting? I want to do a small suspension lift but preferably don't want to lift the body. What's the max height you can go before the CVs are at to much of an angle to cause damage? I found an old GL at the local UPull that looked to have a 4in suspension lift with a 3in body lift. But that's a little more than I desire. Thanks for reading!!! If you have answers please I would love to hear. Cheers.
  9. I was considering forking out $$$ once again for a group N (STI) transmission mount for the Legacy, as I bought one a few years ago and fitted it to the Forester with very happy results. Then I found the remains of the windshield adhesive sealant I had recently used to toughen up the Vivio’s failing engine mounts, and I then dug out the Forester’s old soft transmission mount, still in one piece... ....So I am experimenting with... One original Forester SF trans mount, Two unused hard rubber bushes from a Fiat Panda’s trailing arms, 1/2 tube of windshield adhesive/sealant. - -Thoroughly clean and degrease the mount, and force in the bushes (bench vise did the trick): -Tape up one side to prevent seepage: -Squeeze in sealant from the open side as thoroughly as possible: -Do what you will with the excess, and leave to cure for a few weeks: When it is cured I shall remove the Legacy’s existing mount and compare them both in the hand, before fitting and coming back with an update. I am expecting a firmer mount, though not as stiff as the real STI component.
  10. So My 04 legacy jumped a gear pulling into a parking lot threw a p0866 engine code defined as a TCM Communication Circuit High. Also the flashing AT oil temp light. Is there a diagram I can see to find out if I’m able to access the issue or is it more internal and I’ll have to pull the trans for repair
  11. I've got a 2002 Subaru Legacy Outback with a 5-speed manual transmission and I've been driving it for almost ten years. Just lately I've started having problems hitting the correct gears when I shift. I try to put it in 1st and I hit 3rd. I try to get into 2nd and I hit 4th. Sometimes I try to go into 3rd and I hit 5th. And there have even been several times when I've been shifting into 4th and I've hit reverse (which is really disturbing). It seems that all the proper gear positions are drifting to the left, so I'm now hitting one gear to the right of where I should be. The problem only started about a month ago, and it's definitely getting worse every day. Any idea what could be causing this? Is there some bolt that holds the transmission in place and could be coming loose? Or maybe the rods connected to the gear shift are starting to bend? Everything else is working and the car is driving fine, but changing gears is just going to be impossible if this keeps getting worse.
  12. Hello everyone. I’m new to the site . Just bought my first Subaru. A 1979 Brat I am attempting to resurrect. Anyways I picked up this transmission for $50. I was told it was a 5 Speed Subaru dual range. Can’t find any identitying marks on it. I need help, any ideas?
  13. Im looking to purchase a 2011 Subaru Impreza 2.5i, however it, just like all automatic subarus before its time, is stuck with one of the worst automatic transmissions in the history of the planet. I also own a 1999 Nissan Altima, and it to has a 4-speed automatic. My question is, is it possible to swap in a 5speed transmission, like one found in the later legacy models, or is this a no go. I would like for the swap to be somewhat painless, obviously it will take some elbow grease and a few moments of pure frustration, but is it possible? Ive considered a manual, however, i just cant be bothered. I do a lot of highway driving and id love to just throw the sucker in drive and be on my merry way.
  14. I'm new here and new to Subarus. I have a 1997 Legacy Outback 2.5 automatic AWD, and I think it needs a new transmission. The model number on the bell housing is tz102z2cba-dt. I've found a japanese import transmission that I'm told will work, model number tz102z1caa-dg apparently from a 1998 Outback. Does anyone know if this is correct? I'm looking for a direct replacement, if possible, and I'm having some difficulty finding these model numbers online to really compare them. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  15. I have a 2010 Outback with 145,000 miles. In October the throw-out bearing failed requiring a clutch repair. a week following the repair the transmission would pop out of reverse. My mechanic determined that a replacement transmission was needed. Weighing the cost options (new, used, rebuild) I went with a used transmission (with a warrantee). The replacement transmission worked for a week then developed the same problem. I am on my 2nd replacement transmission and now after 2 months it pops out of reverse. What is causing this or is being overlooked here?
  16. I have a 2010 Subaru Outback 2.4L with about 144,000 miles. I was doing an oil change on Monday and saw some fluid leaking. The area I've circled had fluid on it with it 'pooling' on the bolt near the middle of the circle. It appears to be coming from the front differential but I am by no means an expert and was wondering if I was right. I'm only guessing this because of the 'Diff Oil' label to the right. Last winter as part of some scheduled maintenance I had a Subaru dealer replace the differential oil since it was -40c out and a couple of the things were beyond my comfort level. Over the summer the Subaru is our second vehicle so it didn't get driven much but I started noticing some small spots of fluid on the driveway. I wasn't too worried and was going to check next time I was under there as there wasn't any major spots and I couldn't see anything from the top. If it is the a differential seal/gasket, it seems like something that needs replacing before it destroys itself from what I'm read but I wanted to get some thoughts before running ahead and doing something. Thanks!
  17. I have a 2004 Impreza outback sport. I need to find a replacement for a manual transmission. I'm having no luck at finding one, so I'm looking at other Subarus. Locally I've found a 2003 legacy, a 2003 Impreza, a 2002 Forrester, and a 2004 Forrester. All with manual transmissions. Are any of these compatible with my car? Or is there a resource I can turn to to find out?
  18. Hi all, I am about to throw my SOHC 2.5/DOHC 2.5 frankenmotor into a '98 outback in pretty great (cosmetic) condition.... but it is 200,000 miles. I have gone through about 4 different 5mts in the past 6 years... All were cheap, but all were high mileage. I'm planning on purchasing a transmission that came out of the '05 Legacy GT wagons... Transmission code: TY757VBAAB... The gear ratios look to be a dream! With my wheel/tire choice, I can be at 3000 rpm and going 75 mph down the interstate and thus keep very good fuel economy. My problem though... In the picture of the transmission that I'm looking at, there doesn't appear to be a speedo-sensor installed... There is a plug circled in orange... Anybody have a guess if there will be a speedo gear in there when I take the plug out? If not, I'm assuming that I'd have to split the case halves to install? Just a matter of spending the time to do so? Unfortunately I'm not in a position to get this information as the transmission is coming from an online auction source. Supposed to be at about 50,000 miles. I guess I could go without a speedometer, and just memorize the tachometer-to-gear-ratio-to-wheel-size speeds off of a chart... I figure it'll last much longer behind a NA motor versus turbo... http://www.rallispec.com/downloads/Transmission ID Chart_Public.pdf http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru Transmission Chart Thanks all, Greg
  19. IЯBaboon

    SVX Manual Swap Question

    I have a JDM SVX I imported from Japan that came with a dead transmission. So I am wanting to do perform a manual swap on it. Mostly because I don't have room between the engine harness and brake booster, and in the name of keeping everything as simple as possible I am wanting to go with a cable clutch setup. My question is since I am looking for a parts car so I can have all the parts I need in one place, and I am wanting to know which model Subaru's came with a cable clutch so I can narrow down my search to the cars I actually need.
  20. Many posts in this forum re what ATF works in Subaru trannys; and other makes. Subaru says for my 2008 Outback, must be their ATF-HP. Please search site below for possible replacement with even better performance: https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/automatic-transmission-products/maxlife-multi-vehicle-atf click on PI SHEET. Subaru ATF-HP and HP appear as backward compatible. I read thru the Valvoline specs, and it exceeds all those listed in the PI sheet in resistance to breakdown at high temperatures = life span. I first encountered the problem with a TOYOTA TUNDRA 2011 ATF change. Toyota changed OEM specs on approved xmission fluid to avoid penalties from Euro 'green' laws, extending the recommended miles before ATF replacement necessary to 100,000 miles. This is a fantasy. But to enforce the 'saving' of hydrocarbon usage, Toyota also took away the tranny drain tube/plug and replaced it with a stand-pipe in the sump that retains a high level of ATF even when the 'drain' (hahaha) plug is opened. You need special equipment to fully drain/replace the ATF. When I drained / replaced with Valvoline at 80,000 miles, the ATF was black as coal, and up-shifts were hanging and shuddering. At 100,000 suspect xmission would have been toast. Replacement with Valvoline restored smooth shifts, and added 2 MPG to efficiency. (Well, improved from 12 mpg to 14: but if ya gotta pull a 6000 lb trailer, you're gonna need a V8, right?)
  21. The input shaft holder seems to be on there pretty well, I cannot pry it off with a screwdriver. Can I replace the oil seal for the transmission from here? edit: the video may be upside down.
  22. Our 2007 Legacy Station Wagon (owned since january 2012) has recently started to give us intermittent rumbling sound/loss of power for 2-4 seconds only intermittently. It is not loud. On a 15 minute drive it may occur 2-6 times. It feels like maybe transmission/axle/all wheel drive related. (Computer or sensor related ?). Our mechanic, who we have had take excellent care of 9 different extended family vehicles over the last 15 years, is somewhat baffled but has experienced this issue himself on test drives. He just did replace the transmission oil in an attempt to resolve the problem and also looking for bits of metal at that time, but not found no bits of metal and said that the result often indicates that there is probably on transmission issue. We recently experienced a failing transmission on a 1996 Montero and the issue with the Legacy does not feel similar. The local Subaru dealer is a train wreck and dishonest. Our mechanic says he is getting no error codes (don't know if it is possible to check for diagnostic error codes for a long period of time during a test drive). I read one post on another site that seemed to be describing a similar issue and that 5 trips to the Subaru dealer yielded no error codes or resolution but that when the issue worsened, they happened to be near a Firestone dealer who immediately diagnosed a bad sensor, and they replaced the sensor and resolved the issue. Any ideas ? Thanks- Doug
  23. Background: Struts are all newish, brakes recently serviced, new inner/outer tie rods, new ball joints, new FCAR bushings, wheels rebalanced, recent alignment. Symptoms: Faint clunking noise at low speeds while accelerating. Shaking at 60 mph, felt like unbalanced wheel, except we just had them rebalanced. Back story: I've been chasing an issue with the passenger's front wheel on our 1999 Forester for a few months now. The car is closing in on 200k miles and I had just finished replacing the ball joints and tie rod ends on the car when I noticed the passenger's side front control arm rear bushing was pretty badly torn. I replaced that bushing, got an alignment, then my wife tells me that the car is shaking on the highway. OK, wheels must be out of balance, so we get them rebalanced. No change. I do the wheel shake test and I felt some play, so let's take a look at the wheel bearing. Wheel and brakes removed, I can feel some clunking as I turn the hub. The driver's side feels smooth when rotated, but there is obviously something wrong with the passenger's side. I get the passenger's side spindle assembly on the bench expecting to find some grumbling and play, but it feels pretty smooth in rotation, with no axial or radial play. So I grab the halfshaft and rotate it. The clunking is still present, but it doesn't feel like it's coming from the CV or DOJ. I supposed it could be either of those parts, but I get the feeling that the passenger's side differential carrier bearing is going south. Question: I've read a lot about Subaru transmissions over the years and that if not reassembled properly with the correct backlash and bearing preload, they will fail again in pretty short order. As I see it, we've got a few options on how to proceed: 1) Rebuild the original transmission - Has to go to a shop and could get expensive with labor and, "while we're in there" incidentals, rebuild could re-fail 2) Replace original transmission with a good used one - I can do this, no problem, but I worry about getting a bad used transmission 3) Sell the car and find the wife a new vehicle - Since our Forester is a the bottom of it's depreciation curve right now, does it really make sense to sink $600-3,000 into a vehicle that's only worth $4,000 tops? Looking for opinions, experiences, etc. If you've got a nice, used transmission, I'm all ears too!
  24. I've had a few '95 Legacies with the EJ22 over the years. One made it to 386,000 (MT), another died of a freak headgasket problem a little after 200k, and my current one (AT) is at 387,500 or so. The transmission was replaced with a used one about 200,000 miles ago. The clutch pack started having problems a couple of years ago, so I've been running it in FWD for a while. The shifting has been getting wonky over the last year or so - i.e. sometimes won't come out of first gear, and the speedometer doesn't move, then suddenly will shift just fine. The problem is that I've been telling my wife for years that these engines never die, can go for 500,000 miles . . . I think it will be time to move on when the transmission finally goes. She says we should just put another one in. Given the age/mileage of salvage yard transmissions at this point, plus the cost and overall age of the vehicle, I think it will be time to retire the car. As much as I'd love to keep it going forever, I feel like it's reached the age where it's time to enact a DNR for anything major. What do y'all think?
  25. I have a 88(I think) dual range transmission with a blown ring and pinion. Instead of buying a new ring and pinion from subaru for $500 I picked up a gently used 93 manual push button transmission($100) with the intention of taking the ring and pinion out of that. The transmission is perfectly fine except that I would be better off with the dual range on my rig. So my question is, would it be possible to just swap the transfer case on the end of the transmission? They seem to be the same size, and it would make the project much easier. Thanks for the help. And just for kicks I have an 88 Gl-10 4" lift ej22 swap
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