jimmyberka

I’m changing out the transmission on my 1990 Legacy L AWD station wagon. The # on my transmission is 3V-TY752VA1AA The # on the one I got from a wrecking yard ( supposedly from a 1992 Legacy) is the same except at the end of the id# it is AA2A instead of AA1A,. does anyone know if these two transmissions are interchangeable? Thanks, Jim

Anyone in the Seattle area interested in taking on changing out a 90 Legacy AWD transmission change out.? I have the replacement in hand. Will pay of course.

I’m looking for a manual transmission for my 1990 Legacy AWD station wagon. does anyone know of other years/models that would also fit so I can broaden my search. Also will a trans from a 90 Legacy sedan also fit the wagon. Thamks

Is it possible to put a standard transmission in place of the auto transmission without doing a lot of other things?

Reverse went out on my 93 legacy (auto trans.) Is this a common problem w/auto transmissions this old?? Any ideas or fixes from those who may have had this problem?

OK, thanks, The green connector wires are so short, I can't get them plugged together to do the self diagnosis. Has anyone else had this problem?

I just got a 9pin adaptor to read OBD (using an OBD2 code eader) codes for my 93 Legacy. Does anyone know where the 9 pin connecrtor I need to plug it in is located? Thanks

When cranking the engine cold it acts like it is flooded, or starved for gas. When it catches it "stumbles", which is sometimes cleared by feathering the gas pledel or holding it all the way down. As soon as it "clears" it runs fine and has power. Hot starts are fine, starts right up. Any ideas?

My service manual says to leave Test mode connetor connected on one page and disconnected on another page, when retrieving codes. Which is it? And, is the test mode connector thr blue one with only one wire on it?

I have intermittant problems with my tach, gas guage,dash lights, and brake lights. they either go off and on randomly, or read wrong (gas guage) Could this be a grounding problem. Where do I start to try to find the problem?

I DID clean the surfaces very well, and used a dealer supplied gasket. I did not have the head machined,and also did only the drivers side, so it looks like that is my next step (machine both heads and install new gaskets again). I had the bleeder cap open and filled the radiator through both the bleeder valve and the radiator cap when the engine was warmed up, but it is still blowing water out of the filler neck when I rev the enging at operating temp. It sure seems like I have the air out of the system. If I drive it a bit affter warmup, the reservoir will be filled to the top and the temp guage quickly shoots up towards hot:Flame: Thanks for the help, Jim

A friends '92 legacy was overheating and blew a hole in the radiator. I determined the head gasket was leaking because air was pushing a lot of water into the overflow and the engine overheated quickly. A Compression test showed all cyls (except #4, drivers side rear, which was 80-90) at 140. After replacing the head gasket on only the drivers side, I now have 140 psi compression on all cyls., but still have air pushing coolant into the reservoir and engine:Flame: overheating. Any suggestions on what to do next? It looks like I still have a head gasket leak even though compression has risen on the #4 cyl. Jim

OK, Thanks, I found it. Jim

Can anyone tell me what 16 short blinks of the POWER light on the dash of a 92 legacy wagon with A/T means? It does this everytime I start up the car. It was associated with an engine overheat. Thanks, Jim

If you did it on a '90 wagon 2.2 without raising the engine or taking anything off the head assembly, I am triuely amazed.