jimmyberka

I’m changing out the transmission on my 1990 Legacy L AWD station wagon. The # on my transmission is 3V-TY752VA1AA The # on the one I got from a wrecking yard ( supposedly from a 1992 Legacy) is the same except at the end of the id# it is AA2A instead of AA1A,. does anyone know if these two transmissions are interchangeable? Thanks, Jim

Anyone in the Seattle area interested in taking on changing out a 90 Legacy AWD transmission change out.? I have the replacement in hand. Will pay of course.

I’m looking for a manual transmission for my 1990 Legacy AWD station wagon. does anyone know of other years/models that would also fit so I can broaden my search. Also will a trans from a 90 Legacy sedan also fit the wagon. Thamks

Is it possible to put a standard transmission in place of the auto transmission without doing a lot of other things?

Reverse went out on my 93 legacy (auto trans.) Is this a common problem w/auto transmissions this old?? Any ideas or fixes from those who may have had this problem?

OK, thanks, The green connector wires are so short, I can't get them plugged together to do the self diagnosis. Has anyone else had this problem?

I just got a 9pin adaptor to read OBD (using an OBD2 code eader) codes for my 93 Legacy. Does anyone know where the 9 pin connecrtor I need to plug it in is located? Thanks

When cranking the engine cold it acts like it is flooded, or starved for gas. When it catches it "stumbles", which is sometimes cleared by feathering the gas pledel or holding it all the way down. As soon as it "clears" it runs fine and has power. Hot starts are fine, starts right up. Any ideas?

My service manual says to leave Test mode connetor connected on one page and disconnected on another page, when retrieving codes. Which is it? And, is the test mode connector thr blue one with only one wire on it?

I have intermittant problems with my tach, gas guage,dash lights, and brake lights. they either go off and on randomly, or read wrong (gas guage) Could this be a grounding problem. Where do I start to try to find the problem?

I DID clean the surfaces very well, and used a dealer supplied gasket. I did not have the head machined,and also did only the drivers side, so it looks like that is my next step (machine both heads and install new gaskets again). I had the bleeder cap open and filled the radiator through both the bleeder valve and the radiator cap when the engine was warmed up, but it is still blowing water out of the filler neck when I rev the enging at operating temp. It sure seems like I have the air out of the system. If I drive it a bit affter warmup, the reservoir will be filled to the top and the temp guage quickly shoots up towards hot:Flame: Thanks for the help, Jim

A friends '92 legacy was overheating and blew a hole in the radiator. I determined the head gasket was leaking because air was pushing a lot of water into the overflow and the engine overheated quickly. A Compression test showed all cyls (except #4, drivers side rear, which was 80-90) at 140. After replacing the head gasket on only the drivers side, I now have 140 psi compression on all cyls., but still have air pushing coolant into the reservoir and engine:Flame: overheating. Any suggestions on what to do next? It looks like I still have a head gasket leak even though compression has risen on the #4 cyl. Jim

OK, Thanks, I found it. Jim

Can anyone tell me what 16 short blinks of the POWER light on the dash of a 92 legacy wagon with A/T means? It does this everytime I start up the car. It was associated with an engine overheat. Thanks, Jim

If you did it on a '90 wagon 2.2 without raising the engine or taking anything off the head assembly, I am triuely amazed.

I didn't really keep track of the time. It probably took at least 6 hours to take them off since you need to remove the radiator, timing covers and belt, drop the exhaust manifold etc. If you go through with it, you ought to at least test the flow thru the radiator and get it fixed if its not up to par. Also, water pumps seem to go at around 100,000 miles and would be easy to change at this time. Hopefully you can get some good info. on your Questions # 1 & 2 before you proceed. I don't think a small head gasket leak would show up in a compression test. You may have something more serious going on with your valves or the lower half of your engine. Good luck.

In response to question #3, I just pulled the heads (without breaking them down) on my '90 Legacy wagon without taking out the engine. It is a very tight squeeze, and you have to jack the engine up and down as you fiddle with the long head bolts in order to get them to clear the holes in the block without hitting the frame and fender wells on the other end. It was actually easier to put them back in. I also did it without removing the intake manifold. You just have to be careful to slide the manifold gasket in as you are putting the heads back on and get the manifold bolts started before you touque down the heads.

I have the same problem with my '90 Legacy Wagon. I make sure it has been setting for some time, and then put the dipstick in and take it out about ten times, each time wiping it clean of oil. Even then it is sometimes a problem getting the same reading in consecutive "dips". Anyone else have a sure fire solution ?

the #1 piston is not suppose to be on TDC when you put the timing belt back on. If all the arrows on the pulleys and belts are lined up as stated in the procedure, and you have the correct tooth spacing between each crank arrow, everything will work out. THEN, once you have it all together, you can use the mark on your crankshaft pully to show you where TDC is.

I figured I may have made that a bit confusing. If your cooling system is sealed, and operating properly, the coolant will expand into your overflow tank when it heats up, and then be siphoned back into your radiator to keep it full as the antifreeze cools. If your overflow hose is not submerged in coolant, or if your rad. cap doesn't keep the system sealed, the siphoning will not be able to take place and coolant won't be sucked back into your rad. as it should. Hope that helps.

I would also check to make sure you have good flow through your radiator by disconnecting it from the system and running water through it from both the lower and upper rad. hose connections. Also make sure you are not loosing any coolant through leaky water pump, or rad cap that is not sealing the system. This allows coolant to be drawn back into your radiator as the eng. cools down.

:madder: I hate to be the one to break this to you but your symptoms are EXACTLY like those that were happening to my '90 Legacy Wagon when I had a head gasket leak.. When you have a head gasket leak (which I think you do) air from the cyl. is being forced into your cooling system. This keeps water from circulating through your radiator (cold upper hose and rad. ) and forces hot water out of your heater core (no heat) Several people have gotten by for awhile by removing their thermostat, but ultimately, I believe you have a headgasket leak. I spent weeks replacing my thermostat, water pump, had the radiator rebuilt, and this did Nothing towards solving the problem. I did the gaskets myself, and it was only about $100 in parts and a lot of labor, but I was able to take a LOT of shortcuts from what was suggested in my repair manual. The gasket replacement did solve the problem. GOOD LUCK

I just replaced the headgaskets on my '90 legacy AWD wagon 2.2l Exhaust gasses were leaking into coolant at 166,000. SO, it can happen. I had just bought the car 6 months ago and records showed it had been maintained at a Subaru dealer. It WAS taken in for overheating about a year before I bought it and they couldn't find anything wrong.

I also just used a strap wrench on my 2.2 l '90 legacy wagon. Put a rag around the filter if the strap wrench is too big like it was for mine.

amen, quit the jabbering and get your subie home