jimmyberka

1990 legacy awd wagon . Tach will work on and off. Sometimes it goes for as much as 30 min. in either the working or non working mode. Any ideas on what to check first ?

Be careful when taking the bolt off. They get very tight, and using a chain wrench to hold the pully can put marks in it if you are not careful. They make a tool that has 4 pegs in it to go in the 4 holes in your pully, to hold it while you are spinning the bolt off. You can make out of a piece of steel about 6"x6" First drill a hole in the center large enough for a socket extension to fit through. Next, dirll 4 holes, about 1/4' in dia., in the same spacing and pattern as the holes in your crankshaft. Put bolts, of a little smaller diameter, thruogh the 4 holes you just drilled. Put a nut on each side of the metal plate to hold the bolts steady. With there being a little slop in the fit, you can loosen up the cinching nuts a bit so your bolts fit right into the holes in the crankshaft. Lastly, attach a piece of angle iron, 2 or 3 feet long to use as a handle. Put it up and out of the way of your other holes. You are now ready to use your tool. Insert the socket extension through the hole, then put your socket on it. line up the 4 small bolts so they go into the crankshaft holes, loosening the cinching nuts if necessary to get them all in at the same time. tighten the cinching nuts again and you are ready to go. Crank your socket counter clockwise while you put clockwise pressure on your tool.

My problem was more consistent, but when my blown head gasket was leaking air into my coolant system, the heater would start blowing cold. The radiator was also cold due to the air in the system keeping the coolant from returning to the radiator via the lower rad. hose and thermostat.

I'm replacing head gaskets on my '90 Legacy Wagon. I notice the part # for the new ones ends in # 114. The ones I took off are part # 110. Any way of knowing if the ones I took off are origional? Also There is no record of any work having been done on the internal eng. or heads, but I can still see cross-hatching down the piston walls from what looks like a recent cyl. honing. Wouldn't this cross hatching wear away fairly quickly ?

I tried both aftermarket and OEM. Overheated with both. I think I'll just drive with it out and see if I'm loosing coolant thru head. So far no overheating with thermostat out.

I have a '90 AWD Legacy wagon with an overheating problem. After replacing the radiator and water pump it looks like it is a cracked head or bad head gasket. Is a head replacement a viable option for an eng w/165k miles on it? Anyone know where I can get a cheap head in the Seattle area?