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Showing results for tags 'tie rod'.
Found 6 results
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2003 Outback H6 Taking a little road trip to the hill country next month. I rotated tires today. Took the opportunity to inspect around and try to get a little lube in the sway bar bushings - hoping to help an occasional 'groaning sound' from the rear when maneuvering/bouncing the car. some good news, some bad; tires evenly worn Centric PQ ceramic brake pads really last! So do OEM rotors. rear diff mount bushings look good, rear axle boots and everything back there actually looks OK to good. One or 2 suspension arm bushings look 'off-center/worn'. One of those could be source of noise I guess? No movement on rear wheel bearing up-down - side to side rocking test. No oil on top of (replaced, not original) struts. some wetness on the charcoal box ? - and, now I think, there may have been some wetness under the car from around there - will investigate further if it smells like fuel - haven't noticed that and it seems it would be quite strong in the garage if even a little gas were there??? Both sides of the front have about 2-3mm of 3-9 o'clock movement at the wheels(tires on) - appears to be inner tire rods. No apparent problems felt inside or tire wear but, I will put that on the 'to-do' list for this fall or more likely next spring. One front bearing test moved about 1mm up-down. I may let that wait...can't decide. If I diy that, everything I've read leads me to believe I should tackle it one of 2 ways - on the car with some 'hub tamer' type of device, or take the knuckle to a dealer/shop. thoughts? Still looks like the oil cooler adapter is weeping, not enough to spot the ground yet....I have read mixed reviews on success at swapping that seal so, I'm gonna wait. a front outer axle boot is ripped so, need to deal with that. I THINK I have an OEM spare axle, if not, I'll try to find a used one, reboot the inner and swap. No clicking yet so, I'm gonna let it wait too.Since it's the outer, an interesting experiment might be to try knocking the Rzeppa joint off and installing a new aftermarket one on my OEM axle...might do that and hold the axle in reserve for the other side or ??? for the money/hassle, used entire half-axle is still probably better. glanced at resevoirs and checked the oil. likely do that again before the trip. -
I was doing some brake work and the front wheels of my wife's 2003 OBW can wiggle about 1mm or so in the 3 o'clock to 9 direction. Both sides do it. This is with the tire in place, maybe about 1.5 mm?, but , while noticeable, it's very slight. no movement up-down so, bearings all seem OK. just wondering how bad things need to be to warrant repair. (or, is this normal? - I don't know if i have ever really checked this before)
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I'm stuck! I almost have everything apart to get to the wheel bearings, but that stupid tie rod.... I cant get it to drop.
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I can't afford to get ripped off by a "dealership" or mechanic so I came to see if I can be a little more informed on whats going on to my 1996 legacy outback. (I love these cars, they are reliable and durable) Thanks so much in advance, and please correct me if I am wrong. So I have been on a road trip for a month or more and I am assuming due to regular mountain and heavy load usage (northern California sharp turning roads) I am now hearing clunking noises every time I steer left coming from the driver side front left tire area usually happens when going 45-65 mph, sometimes when going slower. I've also noticed its happening when I am decelerating or hitting the brakes. When it first hit me I was on the highway going 65 mph and my steering wheel started jerking like never before. I pulled over next town and did some internet research. I came up with a list of possible things it could be: Bad tire alignment steering rack axle ball joints cv shaft cv axle cv joints inner/outer tie rods wheel bearing lower ball joints I then went under the car and took some pictures, I am not too car savy but enough to do the work myself if it isn't re-building a motor. I need help figuring out what's causing the noise so I don't get ripped off if I have to go to the mechanic. From other forums and posts I have read it seems to be something I definitely need to take care of as soon as possible. The torn boot is in the front left driver side. I have noticed atf fluid leaks and sits in a puddle sometimes (can't be good?) Another angle Torn Steering rack & pinion boot or inner tie rod boot I believe? Another angle of the torn boot This is again the same torn boot, except this time in the photo the steering wheel is turned to the left as far as it can go (this is the way when it makes the clunking noise) It seems to be the Rack and pinion teeth that is being exposed? (This is where I get confused, is this the steering rack and pinion boot or is it the inner or outer tie rod boot? please help) How bad does it look? Again, another angle with the steering wheel turned to the left as far as it can go. CV Axle boot (closest to the wheel) I believe, with the steering wheel turned to the left. Does it look bad? Again, another angle of the CV Axle boot (closest to the wheel) same position. So, what I am thinking it has got to be either a bad CV axle or CV joint? Or a bad inner/outer tie rod and boot. Or a torn Steering Rack & Pinion boot with a bad overall steering rack (Although I hear its rare). I am low on funds and really need to just get down to the nitty gritty of the problem and fix it. What must be done? I need your advice, tips and help. Thank you!- 7 replies
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- 1996
- legacy outback
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Hi folks, I just took my 1980 Brat in for a safety inspection (part of the process of importing it into Canada). I was told that my front passenger control arm is shot and needs to be replaced. I'm hoping for a second opinion as my understanding is that I just needed to replace the inner tie rod. Two questions: 1) What should I look for to determine if the control arm is shot (it's a Nevada car, rust free and in good shape - just drove across the country) 2) Where could I find a control arm if need be? I've emailed Mountain Tech Subaru and I'm waiting to hear back. This is somewhat time sensitive as I've got about 30 days to complete the importation, though I'm sure I could figure out an extension if need be. Thanks as always, look forward to hearing your advice! -
Parts Needed for 1980 1st Gen BRAT GL I am trying to eliminate a slight shaking at higher speeds and would like to get an alignment done. I found about half of the parts I would like to replace, but I am having trouble finding the inner ball-joint assembly parts. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! (See the attached photo to match the following numbers) What I REALLY need: 4. Lock nuts 5. Boots 6. Snap rings (boot) 7. Ball-joint assemblys 8. Lock washers What I was able to find and already purchased: 1. Dust seals 2. Snap rings 3. Tie rod ends - Outer ball-joints
