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Found 14 results

  1. Since we don't have ready access to The End Wrench or individual Subaru technical service bulletins, I was wondering if anyone had the TIB that provides information on the front wheel bearing installation. I have a feeling that my local mom & pop garage that I take the hubs/bearings/spindles to is buggering up the installation, causing my front bearings to only last a few thousand miles before making noise. @GeneralDisorder Is this something you have access to? I'm not opposed to buying the correct tool to do this at home, if someone has recommendations.
  2. I looked at Ebay for wheel bearings, and I saw lots of sellers with lots of deals, but I decided to go with the local dealer because they have a nice discount for online orders, and I figured I'd get the latest most up to date parts for my car. The OEM bearing is supposed to be Koyo from what I read, and that's what I expected to get from the dealer. When I picked up the parts today, the bearing I got was NTN instead. I know they make bearings for the timing belt area, but I was a bit disturbed that I spent the money to go to the dealer when I could have gotten the same thing on Ebay probably cheaper.... This may be more of a rant than a topic of great discussion....
  3. Hey folks. I have a 99 Brighton legacy. The rear wheel bearings went bad so I replaced them with a cheap set from rockauto. I pressed them in at a local friends shop. The hubs still were wobbling inside of the knuckles. Did I mess up the install or did I buy crap quality bearings? The were WJB brand maybe I need to spend more. I did pack them with grease. I pressed them in all the way. I did have to press one out and back in(there was a small piece of the old chunked bearing sitting at the bottom of the race I didn't initially remove). But both hubs had the same amount of play. I pressed the bearings into the knuckles then the hubs into the bearings? Is that an okay order?
  4. Hello All - My first post to the forum. I am trying to diagnose a growling noise that I get when accelerating, most prominent in 3-5 gears, over 35 mph. I have read a lot of posts on the web but am sort of confused by conflicting write-ups. Symptoms: When I am accelerating at higher speeds, I get a growling sound in addition to the engine rpms going up. This a deep sounding grrrrr, coming from the front end. If I let my foot off the accelerator, the sounds stops. If I tap the accelerator the sounds will occur again, with every push there is a corresponding grrr... Sound does not seem to change if I am turning in either direction. Some things I have read say that this may be a wheel bearing issue, but then why would it go away when not accelerating. Wouldn't the wheel bearing make noise if the wheel is simply turning? I have also read and saw some youtube vids where they say this would be a high pitched whir sound. Mine is very much a low pitched grrrr sound. I also thought perhaps it might be the cv joint and front passenger axle. Here, I should say my front passenger axle boot is torn and there is some play in the front passenger axle. maybe 2-3 mms of pull on it at the wheel. Not near the diff. Lastly I have read that perhaps my issue is the front differential, which I am hoping it isn't as that seems to be the most expensive. Is there some way to determine what the front differential issues sound like? Any thoughts or advice are highly appreciated. I am mainly stumped one the type of noise sound and when it happens. It is most definitely most pronounce the faster I go. Rarely heard lower then 30mph. Only heard on acceleration. Turning in either direction seems to make no difference. I am planning on replacing the passenger front axle to cure the torn boot issue and movement. I guess that is the best place to start, but if that doesn't seem to sounds like why this noise would occur. please let me know... cheers, Steff
  5. Im about to head outside to replace my front passenger wheel bearing FWD. I haven't done one in years and it was on an Isuzu rodeo. Can someone give me a quick rundown on the process before I jack my car up? Much Appreciated!
  6. After FINALLY getting my cv axle out of the front passenger hub to replace the bearings, the inner bearing came out with the axle! 'Tis stuck pretty good on there and I need some tips on how I can get it of without ruining a good axle. 87 FWD GL 3door
  7. I'm stuck! I almost have everything apart to get to the wheel bearings, but that stupid tie rod.... I cant get it to drop.
  8. Hi, I have a 2007 Impreza (not WRX/STI, just the plain model). Seems my right front bearing is giving up. Online manual states front wheel hub bearing cannot be disassembled and needs to be changed, but the part is not available anywhere, all on-line stores offer it only for WRX - and standard hub and extra bearing for normal Imprezas. I suspect the manual is wrong, but would like to hear some input. Thanks, M.
  9. 1. Will ej25 plugs fir in the ej18? Have some brand new iridiums, would rather not have them sit. 2. I'm getting a whirring style noise with speed. It got a little better when I topped off the rear diff, but I'm worried it may be wheel bearings. Boots are fine. Tires are crap, as are brakes. Should I start with replacing the pads first before trying to get at the bearings? Also, I have nothing in the very back, like no spare, styrofoam or floor. Is the lack of noise insulation through there enough to make a loud whirring noise? Trying to upload a video I took with the noise Thanks - CL Edit: Answer to #1 is yes
  10. Has anyone tried these? Can anyone vouch for them? This is the link for my car: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DM9SZPI/ref=ox_sc_imb_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A6JK0PO3GJYXY If not I'll buy the Timken part from Rockauto. FYI the Amazon part is $34 including seals and snap ring. The Rock auto is a lot more as you purchase each part separately. Thanks in advance. As you know the job sucks I don't want to save 50% and do it again next year. Pressed bearings suck!
  11. Hello all, I have a 2005 Outback wagon, base model, 60,000 miles, standard transmission. My wife uses it to commute to work. We are the second owners, bought it with 11,000 miles on it. About three years ago, I started getting loud whining from the rear end, which increased with speed. Sounded like bad wheel bearings. Took it to Midas, it was bad wheel bearings and they replaced both sides for $500 or so. About 9 monts later, the noise stared again. Took it back to Midas, they cheerfully replaced both sides under warranty. Couldn't explain why they can gone bad so quickly. About 9 - 12 months later, same thing. Took it back to Midas, I think they only had to replace one side. They used a different aftermarket bearing which they said they had better experience with. No charge. Nice guys. Apologized for the inconvenience. Now, we have another bad wheel bearing. I'm starting to wonder why this keeps on happening and if there isn't something that these guys are getting wrong. I was speaking last week someone who used to run a Subaru parts counter; he said there are seals they might not be replacing properly........? Does anyone have any thoughts as to why these rear wheel bearings keep going bad? Is there something Midas needs to knoiw? Is there a bad aftermarket brand that should be avoided? Should I insist on OEM parts this time around? My patience is wearing thin. As much as I like the guys at Midas, I'd like to see them a little less frequently. Thanks in advance for any help. Jeff in Boston 05 Outback 99 Audi A4 Avant 72 Citroen SM
  12. 99 Impeza Outback Sport: Ok, I live in the boons. EVERYTHING out here is worth gold! Unless you want to sell something, of course. Want to replace front wheel bearings on my Suby... Talked to a couple local shops, and quite frankly, they are nuts. If I want to pay 120.00 hour for labor, I'll spend the money to take it to a Suby dealership. At least there I know someone has probably worked on a Subaru before. Anyway, handy gent that I am, I got to looking closer at doing the job myself. I have the tools I need with the exception of pressing in/out the bearings. (Yeah, I checked with the shops on just doing that too, and they are still nuts) So, I'm digging around 'Ye Olde Harbor Freight' online and spot this kit,,, something I've never seen before. http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front-wheel-bearing-adapters-66829.html So, I read the reviews. Of course you always have the few 'this is krap!' reviews but most of them reviewed the product favorably. I also looked for the same type of thing on Amazon and, lo and behold, they have the same thing for $50.00 more and the reviews are almost identical. (It appears the main problem occurs when guys try to put a impact wrench to turn the bolt and it strips the threads. ) I looked on YouTube and there is a young guy using a set like this to R&R wheel bearings in his front yard and it doesn't look like that big a deal. HF has also got a 20% off coupon going on so it's kind of a no-brainer IF, I say IF, the product works as advertised and the reviews that I have read are accurate. Yes, it would be 'slightly' more than pulling the hubs myself and having a local shop do the press work but I would own the tools, I could always sell them if I don't want them, and/or will hold onto them for the next job. Question: Has anyone HERE used a tool like this to R&R wheel bearings? Thanks, UMT
  13. I replaced the front passenger axle on my 88gl 4wd 5spd 115k mi. because the boot was torn and slinging grease all over the engine compartment and on the exhaust. I wasn't having any problems with the axle other wise(no noise, clicking,ticking). So I got a remand from autohouseaz.com and put it in. Checked axle to best of my ability before install and seemed fine, put it in tightened everything up and and took it for a test drive through my neighbor hood. It makes a click/tick noise in sync with wheel speed ONLY while accelerating. It is more noticeable turning right than it is left. Again, it only happens when accelerating. Let off the gas, goes away. Not accelerating and making a turn, no noise. Apply go fast(ish) pedal mid turn, starts clicking. Let off gas, goes away. I jacked up the front passenger wheel and checked for any play side to side/up and down/in and out and everything is tight, no slop. Spin the tire and no grinding or metal on metal sounds. Removed the tire and break/rotor, nothing appeared amiss. Removed castle nut and re-torqued it. Took it for another test, still same issue. After reading through posts here I realize i should have just rebuilt the original Subaru axle seeing how i could have a bunk re-manufactured one. Also I could have wheel bearings starting to go out. I don't feel like wheel bearings could be the culprit only because I wasn't having any problems before replacing the axle. Checked the brakes and they spin just fine, no warpage or anything stuck in it or the tires. My goal is to sell the vehicle because I just inherited a newish truck and do not need her anymore/dont have the room but I do not want to sell it with this issue present. I'm perplexed as to why this only happens under acceleration. Is it possible I didnt get the wheel bearings seated properly? the castle nut is ran up like thge drivers side so I assume they were properly seated. Does any one know where to get an front passenger axle rebuild kit? I would rather do the work myself and know its done right instead risking getting another crap axle. Also where to get the wheel bearings? Thanks in advanced for y'alls responses
  14. Last June, I wrote up this thread on a dry-run wheel bearing replacement that ultimately ended up being a real wheel bearing replacement. That was for the driver side front wheel bearing on a 1996 Legacy L sedan. Well, on the same day that the car crossed over 200,000 miles on the odometer, it provided a new challenge. It started with an ABS light coming on along with some front end vibration at highway speeds. This didn't seem like that big of a deal until the next morning when the passenger side wheel started to make horrible grinding noises. I decided I should jack up the car and see what was going on.....I had already mentally prepared myself that a wheel bearing replacement was imminent. Both front bearings had been done by a shop that I STILL regret taking it to. The axle nut fell on the ground as I took the wheel cover off the car. Further removal of the knuckle/hub assembly revealed what I already knew was the case......the bearing had been destroyed and the hub was simply banging around inside the knuckle housing. It was so floppy that the brake rotor was grinding on the brake caliper bracket - rotor is toast. The ABS light came on because the tolerance of the ABS tone ring on the hub was so out of whack from the sensor. So off to the junkyard in the morning. The first potential donor car did not have ABS - of course I only noticed that AFTER spending 20 minutes getting the rusted mess off the car. Note in the photo below that the hub does not have the ABS tone ring. The second car (shown below) was the correct match with the added bonus only rust belt operation can provide. Unfortunately after pulling the CV out, I found that this wheel hub was totally destroyed. I did manage to pick up a new-ish brake rotor since that needs replacing anyway. The third car was an older 1994 Legacy wagon. This turned out to have a good knuckle/hub assembly and was the one that came home with me (after two hours of "practicing" removing wheel knuckles from 3 different cars at the junkyard). The donor knuckle/hub assembly has a very different brake dust shield, but the parts are identical between the 94 and the 96. (back to 92 as demonstrated on the driver side bearing change). I drove out the hub from the backside with a socket and a hammer - no slide hammer this time. It cleaned up pretty nicely and I lightly polished the hub shaft. And I used an air chisel to drive the outside inner race from the hub using the same technique as last time. I have a new bearing, but I still need seals from the Subaru dealer. The O'reily's and Carquests around here keep giving the wrong inner seal - the correct seal has a taller lip than they provide. Next up, cleaning up the parts and pressing out the bearing race from the knuckle with the Harbor Freight puller kit #66829.
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