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About EasyDoesIt

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  • Location
    Lafayette, LA
  • Referral
    Googled "EA82 Timing Belt Replacement"
  • Biography
    Commercial diver living in the South. Picked up the 88 from a friend for 400$ 110,000mi when I bought it. Trying to make it last as long as I can.<br />
  • Vehicles
    88 GL Wagon

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  1. I replaced the front passenger axle on my 88gl 4wd 5spd 115k mi. because the boot was torn and slinging grease all over the engine compartment and on the exhaust. I wasn't having any problems with the axle other wise(no noise, clicking,ticking). So I got a remand from autohouseaz.com and put it in. Checked axle to best of my ability before install and seemed fine, put it in tightened everything up and and took it for a test drive through my neighbor hood. It makes a click/tick noise in sync with wheel speed ONLY while accelerating. It is more noticeable turning right than it is left. Again, it only happens when accelerating. Let off the gas, goes away. Not accelerating and making a turn, no noise. Apply go fast(ish) pedal mid turn, starts clicking. Let off gas, goes away. I jacked up the front passenger wheel and checked for any play side to side/up and down/in and out and everything is tight, no slop. Spin the tire and no grinding or metal on metal sounds. Removed the tire and break/rotor, nothing appeared amiss. Removed castle nut and re-torqued it. Took it for another test, still same issue. After reading through posts here I realize i should have just rebuilt the original Subaru axle seeing how i could have a bunk re-manufactured one. Also I could have wheel bearings starting to go out. I don't feel like wheel bearings could be the culprit only because I wasn't having any problems before replacing the axle. Checked the brakes and they spin just fine, no warpage or anything stuck in it or the tires. My goal is to sell the vehicle because I just inherited a newish truck and do not need her anymore/dont have the room but I do not want to sell it with this issue present. I'm perplexed as to why this only happens under acceleration. Is it possible I didnt get the wheel bearings seated properly? the castle nut is ran up like thge drivers side so I assume they were properly seated. Does any one know where to get an front passenger axle rebuild kit? I would rather do the work myself and know its done right instead risking getting another crap axle. Also where to get the wheel bearings? Thanks in advanced for y'alls responses
  2. EasyDoesIt

    EA82 getting head surfaces clean

    Ordered the Felpro's from rock auto and sent the other ones back. Swung by the 2nd hand building supply store and picked up some glass and a square of plywood. Had some leftover 300g wet-sand paper and followed the directions in the post from grossgary. The first on turned out great! Wasnt bad to begin with but crazy how you can def see the high and low spots once you get started. Doing the next one tomorrow, thanks everybody!
  3. EasyDoesIt

    EA82 getting head surfaces clean

    Looking online for the Felpro Permatorques but coming up empty. I ordered the victor reinz ones but wishing I hadnt with the re-torquing involved. Looking for a large enough piece of glass and sandpaper right now.
  4. EasyDoesIt

    EA82 getting head surfaces clean

    Managed to get them all cleaned off with the scrub pad and a few more beers. Should I really resurface the head? The motor has just over 100k on it and there was just a light seep in the rear bottom corner of the passenger side head. Otherwise, I have not had any issues(knock on wood/cross fingers/sacrifice goat). If it seeps a little I can live with it. I decided to do the job and had it apart before i read that these motors like to mark their territory a little, probably would not have done it in hindsight. Dont really have the time and resources to do what grossgary is suggesting though I like the setup!
  5. Doing the head gaskets and wondering what I should use to scrape the old material off and get the surfaces prepped for reassembly. I was using a razor blade to start with but am worried about gouging the surface. Switched to a 3M scotch Bright pad and its not getting me very far. Any Ideas?
  6. Well after a day and a little patience the intake manifold is off! I was afraid to use heat on it with all the rubber hoses in the area and old oil/grease. What I wound up doing was drilling small (3/32") holes between the broken off bolts and the intake through all the rust that had formed over the last 25 years. Then spraying PB Blaster in the holes and letting it sit, occasionally loving it with the dead blow hammer. In the morning a buddy came over with a set of punches and a some pry bars and we punched the bolts thinking it would help break the rust up a bit. We then proceeded to shimmy the intake up and over the broken studs with the pry bars. Now to just remove the heads pull the broken studs and reassemble with new gaskets and hardware! Thanks for everyone's input and ideas!
  7. Ivan I got a buddy across town with an setup, just have to figure out how many beers its going to cost to get him and it in his truck and over to my place. Senor Brat thanks for the info, just joined the sight and learning the ins and outs of the site.
  8. 88' GL Fuel Injected Ok, so here is my problem. I am attempting to take off the intake manifold so I can replace the head gaskets. I tried my best to take it easy but still managed to break off the two taller bolts on both sides right at the head of the bolt, the shorter ones came out fine. Now I cannot get the manifold to budge. I have squirted Aerokroil on top of the broken off studs to try and get the rust to give. I have beat on it with a deadblow hammer and tried pry barring on it to no avail. Tomorrow I am going to try and use a little heat (propane torch) to see if it will free up. After that I am out of ideas. Has anyone else ran into this problem and if so what worked for you? Any tips or tricks would be appreciated!