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Found 8 results

  1. Somewhere along the road from Alaska to Utah one of the boots of my front right CV axle blew a hole and I still haven't dealt with it properly, the axle is getting pretty noisy now. I browsed the forums here pretty thoroughly and compared what I read to the FSM Diagrams, then pulled the trigger on this axle from Rockauto which they have listed as fitting a front right 4wd MT Fuel Injected 1987 GL with my SOHC engine. After getting the axle in the mail today though I counted the splines and realized it has 25, not the 23 the manual says I'll need. So I'm wondering if anyone else has experience with this so I can know whether or not the axle will fit before I tear the car apart and count the splines on the old one?
  2. Alright. How's everyone doing? Two days ago my front passenger CV axle blew. I was 100 miles from home. Started knocking, all that good stuff. No big deal right? Right. This lifted GL does not have it's original tranny, kay. As a rookie move, first bought a CV for the transmission, which came from a first-gen Legacy. WRONG. Returned it, bought a CV for the chassis, an '87 GL. WRONG. My car is up on stands in front of my place until I can figure this out. How can I identify and acquire the right axle??? The Legacy CV's outer spindle was too short. The GL's "receiving spindle" that connects to the diff. was too small by... maybe two MMs. Does anyone... Have any words of wisdom? I've swapped three CV axles in my life. Totally familiar with the process. But I've never had to do it with a FrankenSub. Ahhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!
  3. I punched out a roll pin on my 97 legacy outback and it seemed like it took more effort than it should have and when it finally came out it had been broken. I went to put a new pin in and it was being a real bugger to work with so I took a look at the roll pin that had come out. It was permanently compressed. Is it possible that the shaft from the transmission has a hole that is too small for standard subaru roll pins? Here's a few pictures of the pin: Here's the roll pin from the 97 legacy compared to a pin I pulled from a 99 forester last week.
  4. Trying to replace my front passenger side CV axle. The old one broke while removing, and there is a piece remaining on the end that goes into the motor - I can't figure how to get it out. I have the new one, and I can see it is held in place with a c-clip (I think that's what it's called....it's a thing c-shaped ring that fits into a groove on the end of the axle. I've tried using a pry bar on the top to force it out, but no luck. Any advice or tricks on how to remove the remaining piece of the old axle? Pictures show view from the level of the wheel looking in, and then from top down through the hood.
  5. Trying to replace my front passenger side CV axle. The old one broke while removing, and there is a piece remaining on the end that goes into the motor - I can't figure how to get it out. I have the new one, and I can see it is held in place with a c-clip (I think that's what it's called....it's a thing c-shaped ring that fits into a groove on the end of the axle. I've tried using a pry bar on the top to force it out, but no luck. Any advice or tricks on how to remove the remaining piece of the old axle? Pictures show view from the level of the wheel looking in, and then from top down through the hood.
  6. Everything was going great and then I noticed that the CV stub came out when replacing the passenger side axle. I have a couple of questions: 1. Should I have been able to pull the stub out of the transmission? I would have thought that the circle clip would have prevented the axle stub form coming out. The clip did not come off of the stub. 2. Can I just reinsert the stub and will the clip compress as it is going in? Note: I but everything back together by just pushing the stub and CV axle back in. Do I need to worry that the clip will not hold the the stub in? Thanks for your help.
  7. I'm back! I've been working on a my "new" hatch and have run into a problem with replacing my driver's side front cv shaft. Mine was TOAST, no wonder it was making that horrible chattering sound. I ordered a new production oem style shaft from Autozone, and hoped that what would come up would be the right length. Nope, later I found out it was a 27 and 5/16" (compressed) long shaft. Not only was it too long, but the metal "head" right behind the wheel/hub side spindle was too fat to fit the suspension assembly. ~~~ 27-5/16" new oem style shaft too long and too wide on the spindle "head" Next one ordered, 27 and 1/4" this one looked like the one I pulled off the Soob (same aftermarket style head). The "head" wasn't as fat either, but again, it was about half an inch too long for the lower ball-joint to fit into it's bracket. -Something I noticed was that if I mated the engine side of the shaft and slid it as far in as it would go (preventing me from pinning it in place), it still need < half an inch to properly fit the ball joint. ~~~27-1/4" new oem style shaft still about half an inch too long to fit the suspension assembly properly. I've orderd my last option from Autozone (and they dropped the price for me thankfully), and the system checks it in as having a 25-3/4" compressed length. I've got the part already and I fear this one will be too short. ~~~Going to try a 25-3/4" cv shaft today, fear it's too short even if it bolts on. On the forum, someone pointed me toward Rock-auto for the "shorter" EMPI cv shaft listed for my car. That one has a 27-1/4" compressed length, I'm guessing the shoddy build of the New OEM style 27-1/4" shaft is to blame? What's the compressed length for the GL hatch front (driver's side) CV shaft? Has anyone ever experienced this same issue before? Thanks in advance!
  8. The Car: 1984 Subaru Brat EA81 Turbo - 5 speed D/R swap (3" body lift, increased tire size) ........................................................................... The issue: 1984 5-speed D/R Transmission has a small amount of play (side to side, up down movement) on both of the front splined-stubbed output shafts. on both (passenger and driver) sides of the Transmission. there is a noticable difference between the amount of lateral movement experienced in the front stub shafts (transmission) and the rear stub shafts (rear-differential). ...... i recently put in both new (not remanufactured) front CV-axle shafts, from O'reillys. (yes ive read all of your posts' about the low quality since acquisition). the axles went 200 miles and developed a significant amount of slop; to the point where i do not feel comfortable driving it. the inner CV axles (inner boot) on both front shafts are now quite sloppy. I popped out the pin and removed the Half shafts from the transmission splines (stub shaft) and found them to have some lateral (side to side) movement. I then compared this to a spare rear-differential i had in the shop and found the the transmission to have a noticable amount more slop than the rear-differential. ........................................................................... The Question: what is the correlation between the amount of slop on the stub shafts and its effect on the CV axles? vice versa? is it possible (or necessary) to tighten the stub shaft and remove the play? does an incorrect alignment increase the failure rate of CV axles? How can i get more life out of my half shafts? any other question and useful information on this topic?
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