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john in KY

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john in KY last won the day on March 26 2019

john in KY had the most liked content!

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About john in KY

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    1000+ Super USER!
  • Birthday 04/14/1948

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  • Occupation
    Retired Army
  • Referral
    Can't remember after all these years. Joined when Billy C originated the forum.
  • Biography
    70 years old. Retired Army. 20plus years Subaru owner.
  • Vehicles
    95 LS

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  1. I doubt that part is the problem. No spark would have me checking for a broken timing belt, a loose rotor, and insuring the coil bracket was tight against the car body as it acts as a ground for the suspect part. Would also replace the coil.
  2. Crawled under the dash today and didn't take long to determine gaining access to the relay would be a nightmare so went to the other side and pulled the motor. Replaced it and the system works. Just for jollies, test the original motor out of the car and it worked? Guessing the motor has a "flat spot".
  3. 1995 Legacy. Last few weeks the blower has failed. Fooled with it a few minutes tonight and can hear a relay under the dash click when the "speed" switch with is turned. Thinking problem is either the relay or the motor has failed. Leaning toward the motor because I can hear the relay click Been super sick last few weeks, haven't been to china, and don't want to go through the trouble of replacing one of the two guesses only to learn it was the other guess. Because the relay clicks, does this mean it is good?
  4. 95 Legacy. Wheel bearings/ball joints/tie rod ends all replaced about 25K miles ago. Recently took a 1500 mile trip to Ohio and noticed a very slight steering wheel shake at 70/80 mph. Few weeks ago at around 30 mph the shake suddenly appeared (much worse) on a country road and the car had a strong pull to the right. I turned around to go home and the shake just stopped after about a mile. Today going around 30 mph again the shake and pulling to the right started again. Stopped. turned around to limp home and again the problem just stopped as suddenly as it began. Only difference this time there was a click coming from the LF wheel. Was obvious associated with the wheel rotation. Will take a look under the car when it warms up but wondering if anyone has a guess or similar experience. Thinking it may have something to do with the brake caliper or rotor.
  5. Can't visualize what the shaft looks like without the joints installed but maybe cutting 1/2" from each end may work. Long time ago I had a transmission input shaft modified when I installed an Olds engine in a 44 Jeep. The machinist turned down one side of the cut shaft, drilled a hole in the other and left a lot of space between the cut that he filled with weld. Never broke although can't say that for the rear axles. But I was a lot younger then.
  6. john in KY

    1991 XT6 won’t idle, runs rough

    The ECU is under the package tray in the trunk. From memory it will have 2 test conecters, green and black. First checked to see if unplugged. Not supposed to be continuously plugged in. Use the green connecter to check for any codes. That little light will flash.
  7. My advice is the few dollars saved is not worth the risk. Do know Mahle manufacture chainsaw engine cylinders that have a good reputation for quality.
  8. Now would be a great time with the wheels off to check those 'tone wheels". If one has a crack, there is the problem.
  9. I have a FWD transaxle out in the shed that still has the inner joints if you can use them. Junk yard cut the axles when I bought the engine.
  10. Sorry but can not recall what I did all those years ago.
  11. "do the sensors on the rear wheels plug into something under the rear seat?" Yes. Just a continuation of the wiring harness. Check the tone wheels for a crack.
  12. My guess is yes except for the difference in final drive ratios. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/156582-outback-h6-4eat-compatability/