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john in KY

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john in KY last won the day on March 26

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About john in KY

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    1000+ Super USER!
  • Birthday 04/14/1948

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  • Location
    KY
  • Occupation
    Retired Army
  • Referral
    Can't remember after all these years. Joined when Billy C originated the forum.
  • Biography
    70 years old. Retired Army. 20plus years Subaru owner.
  • Vehicles
    95 LS

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  1. Can't visualize what the shaft looks like without the joints installed but maybe cutting 1/2" from each end may work. Long time ago I had a transmission input shaft modified when I installed an Olds engine in a 44 Jeep. The machinist turned down one side of the cut shaft, drilled a hole in the other and left a lot of space between the cut that he filled with weld. Never broke although can't say that for the rear axles. But I was a lot younger then.
  2. john in KY

    1991 XT6 won’t idle, runs rough

    The ECU is under the package tray in the trunk. From memory it will have 2 test conecters, green and black. First checked to see if unplugged. Not supposed to be continuously plugged in. Use the green connecter to check for any codes. That little light will flash.
  3. May as well since every thing will be apart.
  4. My advice is the few dollars saved is not worth the risk. Do know Mahle manufacture chainsaw engine cylinders that have a good reputation for quality.
  5. Now would be a great time with the wheels off to check those 'tone wheels". If one has a crack, there is the problem.
  6. I have a FWD transaxle out in the shed that still has the inner joints if you can use them. Junk yard cut the axles when I bought the engine.
  7. Sorry but can not recall what I did all those years ago.
  8. "do the sensors on the rear wheels plug into something under the rear seat?" Yes. Just a continuation of the wiring harness. Check the tone wheels for a crack.
  9. My guess is yes except for the difference in final drive ratios. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/156582-outback-h6-4eat-compatability/
  10. Sounds like a relay has started to click behind the dash. As of now only the driver's window works. Did a little research and checked the sunroof and power seat which both still function. Initially thought either the relay or circuit breaker had failed but with one window and the sunroof and power seat still functioning, wondering if the problem is something else. Anyone have a suggestion what to do/check next? Edit: Research suggested to pull fuse 26 to disable the circuit breaker. What happen is this: power seat and sunroof still worked but the driver's window stopped working and the clicking still continued.
  11. john in KY

    91 xt6

    Owned a total of 5 over the years and enjoyed all of them but let my last one go around 10 years ago. Never had a serious problem with any of them but parts availability started to become a real issue. Certain parts just don't exist anymore. Just thought I'd mention this. A real bummer when the engine needs eg an oil pump. As an aside, the last one I parted with, sold to a friend that later sold it to another friend and she is still on the road.
  12. What are the odds the radiator and the timing belt both fail simultaneously.
  13. Also each head has an oil seal. The one on the passenger-side there to accommodate a distributor. Some markets used a distributor. The other side, don't know why there. From my experience, the passenger-side will be leaking. The oil separator plate mentioned above always leaks over time but if you spring for this job, Definitely have those other 2 seals replaced.
  14. With someone else cranking the engine, check for voltage at the fusible links, both sides, and for voltage at the coil. As for the ECU being bad, I really doubt that. When you did that work on the engine, somehow you caused this no-start problem.
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