wtdash

What I know 1st hand - this applies to US and Canadian models only and only the front seats: All Legacy (Brighton, L, LS, LSi, GT, SUS) and Outback (Limited, H6, LL Bean, etc.) seats from '90-'04 will interchange as will the '92-'07 Impreza/WRX/Sti and '98-'08 Forester. These will all interchange - bolt-up - between models. You may need to use your existing seat belt buckles. See below for caveats. I put '00 Legacy OB seats in my '96 Legacy L. - Bolted up, moved over the seat belt, and found a 12v under the seat as the '00 seats were power. Great upgrade, IMHO. I put '04 WRX seats in my '04 Forester - same fit and airbag connectors. I only did this as the stock were leather, and slippery as heck; the WRX were much more supportive. I put '02 WRX seats in my '93 Legacy (common upgrade) - but they sit too high, IMHO. I could adjust the driver's height to an acceptable level, but the passenger was not adjustable. They bolted in just fine. Some models had more/extra bolts on the inside of the seat frames - by the center console, but the 'feet' were all the same, if I remember correctly. I tried to put '08 Legacy GT seats into a '93 Legacy and they will NOT fit. Bolt holes don't line up. So, '05+ Legacy/OB won't fit older stuff.

Who said the EJ205 is more reliable? They spin bearings and blow headgaskets (yes, I had one) as well as the next one. I'd go look on NASIOC for more info as that EJ25 is essentially the same as the '06+ WRX EJ255 (slightly higher CR), which I would prefer. If that XT has the 4EAT you'll want the displacement as the Auto's suck the life out of the turbo'd engine. I had an '02 WRX AND an '04 FXT w/the 4EAT, and it was 7.5 seconds 0-60. People w/the 5-speed manual could do it <6 seconds. RE: the non-avcs EJ20, You'll need to either use RomRaider/ECUflash or get a Cobb AP to tune out/around the AVCS...I'd check w/a tuner BEFORE you pull the trigger on that, as I'm NOT an expert. Also, a tune can help w/the crappy stock tune and performance w/the 4EAT. I don't know your budget, but if you got the car cheap and want to keep it, I'd get a new shortblock for about $2K. Rebuild your heads and assuming YOU can do the labor, you'll have a fun car for cheap. I really don't trust any used Subaru turbo engine (except the old EJ22T), plus you never know how hard it was driven/maintained. Ps. That stock TD04 is likely toast, too. Get another turbo (VF39/43/48 from an STI) as an upgrade. NASIOC has those, too.

Tangent for VLSD. Avl. on '00+ 'S' trim models: All Weather Package: larger outside defrosting mirrors, heated front seats, windshield wiper de-icer, limited slip rear differential Limited slip new for 2000. (not available on L)" Per Cars101.com

Yes....as long as it's single.

The CTS doesn't have anything to do w/the dash gauge sensor. There is/was a Youtube about them. Yep - should be on the passenger side - under all that other stuff. Tangent: Actually easier to access on an EJ22T as they're on the driver side. So, it could still be the CTS going bad. ...but I'd also suspect the O2 sensors. The ECU runs in 'open loop' (pre-defined parameters) when car is started and doesn't 'listen' to the O2 sensors (if I remember my tuning info from years back), and then run in closed loop after it's up to temp (ha, ha - good luck) where the O2 sensor tells the ECU what's going on in the exhaust - incorrectly if old/worn out - and could then be causing poor MPG.

No offense, but Why is normal operation a problem? It's working as designed so why add a pan heater?

Brrr, I say...BRRRR! Cold's coming to our 'neck of the woods' but only 0°. Oh yeah....CTS....there are TWO related parts. One is a 2 wire (?) connector for the ECU/ECM's use (the one you want) and the other is a one wire sensor (?) that tells the dash gauge how its doing. I've bought the NAPA part and it worked fine. Usually, sometimes, not always, the car will start hard /run rough when the CTS is bad - not just poor MPG. Do y'all put cardboard or some kind of shield in front of the radiator to 'keep it warm'?

You can also swap from one style to another -there's a little tab on each where the wire is held in place. Depress the tab and remove the wire on both and swap....or @ least I did. :-)

I respect your opinion, and would state w/a 'chipped' EJ20G ECU those heads don't produce HP, but torque is notable. This is w/the following upgrades, but all on the stock engine: Setup: Stock EJ22T and heads TMIC "550" STI injectors (525cc) TD05H (with 90 degree inlet from '93-'96 wrx/STI) Exhaust: 3" downpipe and all the way back w/Dynomax muffler STI Fuel Pump Rob Tune EJ20G ecu and ignition converter JECS "green label" MAF Snorkus removed Mopar (Neon, etc.) coil pack and newer-style EJ22 wires. Stock BRK6E plugs gapped to .028 --MBC set to ~18.5 psi; pull done in 4th gear. Remember This is at the WHEELS, not the crank. Run 1HP: 229 HPTorque: 309 ft-lbsRun 2HP: 219 HPTorque: 287 ft-lbs Note: I apologize for the thread hijack.

1. Yes 2. No difference except for that EGR port, that can be blocked off. 3. I can never remember the name - Tappets?- and HLA on '90-'95. I don't know if those are worth swapping or not. 4. Yes, the block is the same in '96, just the single-port, RR + HLA, differences. I put EJ22T heads on an extra '90 or '91 engine, with the '96 Intake manifold, ran NA for few months before going turbo'd -LINK. I was able to block the water and oil ports off w/out an issue...but don't recall what I used, but I had a bunch of left-over parts, bolts, etc, so probably just used what I had. Good luck w/the 'vanagon' (?) project? :-)

Trans isn't that hard...search on here/online for info. All Subarus of that era will be similar. Also, that H6 is known to wear out the timing guides/tensioners. They'd be suspect @ 260K.....and that job doesn't look like fun. I'd rather do 10 timing belts......

A lot of variables in this one, but unplugged/cracked vacuum lines can cause issues.

IMHO, I don't recommend 'power' flushing these unless the ATF has been regularly changed, just drain, refill, drive 3 times. Also, 8 quarts would include the TC and what's in the pan. Not sure what is meant by 'one pipe'...part of the VB/valve body?

From what I've read on here, you should be able to use any phase 1 Legacy TCU ('90-'98)...FD ratio doesn't matter.

The code reader works on another '96+ car correct? I had one that 'went bad' and thought it was the ECU, but was the code reader. And this WAS a working car when you bought/got it? Just making sure you didn't buy someone else's 'project'. :-(

...and you cleared the codes and it comes back? Did you test w/the FWD fuse? If the fuse works (no torque bind), then it's mechanical; if no change then it's electrical/electronic, from my past learnings on here. :-)

might go post on Subaruforester.org. But the older stuff doesn't get much attention anymore. As noted the '04 has heated, airbag and seat belt (?) plugs. The '06 has Airbag and seat belt only....? Did you pull up the carpet on your '06 to check for 'unused connectors' ? The XT (and XS) went to powered front seats in '05...FWIW. Might google seat pics or check ebay for pics of seat connectors to see what an '06 XT seat looks like?

What's the tag show on the bellhousing? TYxxxxxxxx

google the part numbers. The one in yours now, the TZ1b7L...shows out of a '05 Legacy. I'd be surprised if that actually worked....and apparently it doesn't since you're asking. Your main issue is that '99 was transition year for many Subarus. Phase 1 vs Phase 2 electronics, engines, and transmissions, so you'd need to find an exact match, I'd guess. TC1A37C2AA (nor tZ1a37.....)= not a good number... nothing found in Google. TZ prefix usually means Auto; TY usually means Manual. LOOK on the VIN ID tag by the Driver's strut tower under the hood. It shows your engine and transmission.

This link shows it 'should' interchange: https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/SPROCKET-CRANKSHAFT/49224691/13021AA091.html Did you check for a code? I don't recall if the CEL light stays on w/the Key ON/Engine Off, or goes off after a few seconds? I'd suspect the CS sensor..should be easy to swap. And Auto/Manual doesn't matter, AFAIK.

Confused...are you getting the 16 flashes w/the Key On at each start-up? If not, did you see this: https://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html Under #11 of 1st section: "..... Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal."..

It may be completely different going WEST>EAST, but East>West it's $1500+. I can buy cheap(er) Subies from the Far East (say, NJ), but shipping usually breaks the deal.

If you can find a 5-speed FXT, you'll need to 'bring $' as they're becoming as sought after as, well, a clean, unmolested WRX :-) And you really don't want to do a swap, do you? Really? :-) Just not worth it, unless you're really bored, unemployed, have too much $$, etc. It's a full harness swap, not just engine/trans....wiring isn't usually a fun thing. Note to self: Just Stop looking @ those OBXT's for cheap on CL.....

As noted your Phase 1 and 2 Intake Manifolds and sensors are not compatible across phases. Wiring may not be that tough, but it can be a nightmare. Esp. if you don't have an FSM w/the wiring diagrams, etc. There are posts online of peeps that have got this work, but it's never been that clear whether the car actually runs 100%. I'd consider putting the EJ22e ('97) shortblock under the EJ222 ('99) heads, too. They should bolt on as all the EJ are usually compatible, but I've never done this type of swap. And you''d have to research which Head Gasket to use to ensure the coolant/oil ports match. Read This if bored.