wtdash

When you compress the tensioner, read up online about to do it s-l-o-w-l-y and vertically vs. horizontally. I like to use a C-clamp. And you likely have read about using the correct mark on the crank gear....it's not the front one. GL, TD

Automatic or 5-speed?? What difference(s) are you referring to? Interchange /Swappability or internal workings? No offense to GD, but I put an Automatic turbo trans in my '90 NON-turbo and ran fine before and after I swapped in the turbo engine. You may want to source a TCM / TCU (trans computer) from a turbo, too, but that's not a deal-breaker. All '91-'94 Automatics and 5-speeds EJ22T / turbo transmissions - '91-'94 Sport Sedan and '92'-'94 Touring Wagon - were 3.9 Final drive ratio. If yours is an AUTOMATIC w/the EJ22e (non-turbo) '90-'91 or '95-'99(?) it's a 4.11 FD ratio. Tangent: Rumor is the SVX transmission is the same as the turbo w/a different FD ratio...but most SVX transmissions are trashed by now.

You need the '95-'98 SOHC/EJ22 Intake Manifold (IM) WITH the EGR (from Automatics and maybe Cali 5-speeds?) to do this w/out bigger issues. Get one w/the engine harness (or use the 2.5's) and do the EGR delete (no need to drill/tap cylinder head), and install on your '93 EJ22. If you don't care about the EGR CEL, you can use your engine, IF: - Move the OB/2.5's engine/intake manifold harness (may need to loosen IM to fit under) and the throttle body (due to the newer TPS). - Deal w/the Charcoal Canister lines - Do my EGR delete option There's also a different Starter install as the '99 was the Phase 2 block and bellhousing design changes. It'll work 'as is', but IIRC you may only use one mounting bolt??? As you learned the flex plate must match the trans. Any of them will bolt to the engine.

What's the 4.11 out of?

for <$50 you can get front and rear spacers. Paranoid fabrications is one option.

https://bbs.legacycentral.org/ should offer some help (as well as a Google search will cover it ad infinitum)....and those are .5" taller tires than stock, which will mess w/your gearing/acceleration/etc.

Edit: My step-son had no further problems on his trip (other than getting stuck in a snow drift!) and is just driving it as is. My step-son's '00 OB has 260K + miles. Replacement engine (EJ251 w/new HG) has ~ 170K. He was driving over Snoqualmie Pass last night, road clear, temps in the 30's and the AT Temp light came on steady. He pulled off the road and called me. Other than a somewhat steep section of maybe 2 miles (?) near the summit this pass is pretty tame compared to others. You can cruise @ the 65mph speed limit up and over w/out issue (unless it's snowing, which closes it multiple times during winter). - Checked the ATF and it's full. I just changed it out last fall so less than 10K miles. - NO Flashing AT Temp light - Key Off>On (engine off). - No driving issues - no hard shifts, 'flaring'/RPM surges, nothing weird. - Drove it into Seattle w/out further issue. - My step-son is pretty observant and treats the OB very well...he wants it to make 300K! Anyone seen this as a precursor to something failing? I'm thinking maybe the AT pump is getting old or the coolant lines to the radiator are plugged/plugging? Thanks

I'm just going to disagree w/the above, w/an edit. Sensor is the wrong word. It's a mechanical device that is used on the '90-'98 (?) transmissions. However the cable was replaced in '95-'96-ish w/an electronic connector. The mech piece remained the same.

Likely the 'tab' on the end of the sensor Edit: Mechanical device. This is screwed into the pass. side of the trans. see attached.

Depends :-) ...Yes, for stock internals '90-'96. '97+ all Subarus were interference, AFAIK. But this this looks custom - wouldn't be surprised if some Wiseco forged are in there....which are probably lower compression to handle that big turbo, so less likely to be interference.

I'd need to see the top of the engine to tell specifically but it's a Phase 1 '90-'98 version, based on the valve (rocker) covers. The '97-'98 version had higher CR and may not like that turbo as much as the '90-'96 versions...assuming it's Stock internals?...but I see aftermarket or just newer-style top-feed fuel injectors, so maybe it's not much stock left.... That appears to be a good sized turbo (for a stock EJ22 anyway)....so another clue it's had some major engine upgrades? Cool rig...have fun.

Hi this LINK may be useful. I'd start w/the O2 sensor. I'd also clean the MAF sensor. ...use the MAF specific cleaner as I've read Brake Cleaner is too strong and the spray velocity can damage it. BTW, your MAF is the same as every other 2.2 (except turbo models) and 2.5 from '92-'98 (and '90-'91 Automatics). Injectors certainly may be getting old, but w/it running OK 'as is' I'm not sure. You can do a quick resistance test to verify they're around 11-12 ohms.

1996 was x-over to rollers w/the HLA's. Only year like that that I know of....and single-port exhaust as you likely know. This post has a pic of one, I believe: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/127313-spring-washer-rocker-arms/ Hmm, can't post youtube links, but Search 'Subaru HLA oil' to find a DIY.

Why do you need an All-Season in Las Vegas? Get a summer-specific tire: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/types/tiretype.jsp

I wonder if you could buy the immobilizer and related bits from a Salvage/Used Auto Parts yard and swap them. I've read (i think) that the immobilizer somehow even 'communicates' w/the engine to keep it from working unless they all 'match'. But if you could buy the parts, swap it and then have the dealer program it ASSUMING you have a matched immobilizer, ECU and (chipped) key, maybe? Obviously, having all the paperwork verified for the used (NOT STOLEN) parts and checking w/the Dealer first, before 'trying this @ home'.

No offense, but just to ensure we're all on the same page, this is what your KS looks (kinda) like, correct?

Hi, Sounds fun. I'm NOT an engine builder/expert but FYI the stock rods and crank are forged in the '90-'98 (maybe the '99-'01) EJ22e, from what I've read. GL, TD

Tangent: backpressure transducer / BPT (spaceship) - I don't know if that throws the same CEL code when bad but I used a spare from a '90s Toyota.

Ok....so covered somewhere(s) on here. Stock: 205/70R15 = 26.3" tall / height Opt. 1: 215/65R16 = 27.0" tall / height See attached. Should be no fitment issues other than possible rubbing on the front inner wheel wells at full lock.

You've searched Nasioc? If it's happened it's covered there. Found this RE: torquing that nut. This is on the STi IHI VF39 and not a stock Mitsubishi TD04....different brands may be different specs: Those stock TD04's seem to last <150K miles, so likely the original was just old. I'd call PRE - if still around - and see what they think.

G'day...my wife is visiting family in Brisbane.....but I'm a Yank (or whatever you call us - thanks to +Rump it's likely not good). Sounds like the soldering has broken traces. Pull it out and if you've got the skills and tools may be able to DIY. I've only been Down Under once and don't recall, but do you have the 'pick and pulls' for used parts like we the USA? Or what about https://www.ebay.com.au/ for used parts?

And what are the codes? An sti turbo means it's been completely re-plumbed from stock for the TMIC....due to the turbo's outlet. Even more likely something's leaking air...aka VAC LEAK.

1> '95 is 4.11 FD ratio, so you'll need the matching rear diff, as the '92 is 3.90. 2> Flexplate = Automatic; Flywheel = Manual 3> I'd get the flexplate from the '95 - just in case....but, Yes, since the '92 TC would match the '92 Flexplate - should be good. 3.5> Ensure you're VERY informed about re-installing the TC...it MUST be seated correctly....that is covered on here. 4> The bolt-pattern on the rear diff's pinion flange (part that connects to the driveline/driveshaft) changed around '95...so you'll need the fun task of swapping the pinion flange (may need a puller?) or possibly you can mix the '92's rear driveline portion to the '95. I'm pretty sure the full drivelines are different lengths and not interchangeable. Must be covered on here...somewhere.

IDO...it looks like the '98 is a 2-piece driveline (unlike the earlier(?)) all-in-ones. So removing the rear section should work? And the front section keeps the fluid 'contained'?

sounds good....if you're going to 'be in there anyway' I recommend reading up on the Oil Pump. It's also easy to do, but adds 30+ minutes to the job. - Pull the pump w/the crank seal - Scrape off the old RTV sealant on both faces (pump and block) - Tighten the Phillips head screws on back - likely loose. - Install the the NEW little Oring into the block - RTV as FSM shows - Install pump - DO NOT overtighten those 10mm (socket) bolts...snap easier than your fingers. - Install NEW crank seal Search on beer garage subaru for pics (PG13 site)....he goes into a mild tear down of the pump...I'm not sure that's needed.....others may 'flame' me for that!