wtdash

Go to NASIOC.com and read the Unabomber posts for newbs. Here: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=533787 Don't return 'til you've read them all. :-) Good luck, Td

Your Speedo's not working? Or just the Odo? And/or the Tach? And the CEL light does work (key On/Engine off), but there are no codes, correct? I'd suspect maybe a clogged CC, too...if you can Remove the exhaust - yeah Loud AS Heck - you could test it...probably a better way, though. And this is the Phase 2 2.2, not the EJ25D, correct?

+1 I 'believe' all the EJ-series interchange? In this case EJ22 >>EJ253.

I 'think' that should still have the FWD fuse - moved to the fuse block by the battery. If the owner is willing, I'd put in the fuse and try the same tests as b4.

Using car-part.com I see that the 2011-2013 should swap. Nothing about the 2016 or newer for an interchange. But looking @ the 2016 option shows that they ALL are PZEV (see attached) so I'd doubt they'd be an option anyway. Remember that there were PZEV (Google it) and NON-PZEV versions in 2011 and you need to confirm yours matches. Also, the 2011 oil consumption was a recall by Subaru, so you should be able to tell by the VIN number of the donor car whether the engine was replaced/fixed before you buy. The VIN should be stamped on the engine - usually on the back?

No, the light only comes when low....have you used the Tripmeter to check # of miles per tank? Like I stated above, could be the fuel sender reading "E" when there's still over 1/4 tank.

Suggest a search on http://www.car-part.com/ as it shows interchange.

I'd vote Yes, as all the early and mid-90's I've had did. Doesn't sound you've run it low enough, and remember that these have a tendency to show the fuel level wrong once they get into old age. Tangent: My college-aged step-son ran his low so often that he and his wife burned OUT the low fuel light, and guess what? They ran out of gas once.

Yes...one is a single spade to the gauge; the other is a plug connector to the ECU.

When you compress the tensioner, read up online about to do it s-l-o-w-l-y and vertically vs. horizontally. I like to use a C-clamp. And you likely have read about using the correct mark on the crank gear....it's not the front one. GL, TD

Automatic or 5-speed?? What difference(s) are you referring to? Interchange /Swappability or internal workings? No offense to GD, but I put an Automatic turbo trans in my '90 NON-turbo and ran fine before and after I swapped in the turbo engine. You may want to source a TCM / TCU (trans computer) from a turbo, too, but that's not a deal-breaker. All '91-'94 Automatics and 5-speeds EJ22T / turbo transmissions - '91-'94 Sport Sedan and '92'-'94 Touring Wagon - were 3.9 Final drive ratio. If yours is an AUTOMATIC w/the EJ22e (non-turbo) '90-'91 or '95-'99(?) it's a 4.11 FD ratio. Tangent: Rumor is the SVX transmission is the same as the turbo w/a different FD ratio...but most SVX transmissions are trashed by now.

You need the '95-'98 SOHC/EJ22 Intake Manifold (IM) WITH the EGR (from Automatics and maybe Cali 5-speeds?) to do this w/out bigger issues. Get one w/the engine harness (or use the 2.5's) and do the EGR delete (no need to drill/tap cylinder head), and install on your '93 EJ22. If you don't care about the EGR CEL, you can use your engine, IF: - Move the OB/2.5's engine/intake manifold harness (may need to loosen IM to fit under) and the throttle body (due to the newer TPS). - Deal w/the Charcoal Canister lines - Do my EGR delete option There's also a different Starter install as the '99 was the Phase 2 block and bellhousing design changes. It'll work 'as is', but IIRC you may only use one mounting bolt??? As you learned the flex plate must match the trans. Any of them will bolt to the engine.

What's the 4.11 out of?

for <$50 you can get front and rear spacers. Paranoid fabrications is one option.

https://bbs.legacycentral.org/ should offer some help (as well as a Google search will cover it ad infinitum)....and those are .5" taller tires than stock, which will mess w/your gearing/acceleration/etc.

Edit: My step-son had no further problems on his trip (other than getting stuck in a snow drift!) and is just driving it as is. My step-son's '00 OB has 260K + miles. Replacement engine (EJ251 w/new HG) has ~ 170K. He was driving over Snoqualmie Pass last night, road clear, temps in the 30's and the AT Temp light came on steady. He pulled off the road and called me. Other than a somewhat steep section of maybe 2 miles (?) near the summit this pass is pretty tame compared to others. You can cruise @ the 65mph speed limit up and over w/out issue (unless it's snowing, which closes it multiple times during winter). - Checked the ATF and it's full. I just changed it out last fall so less than 10K miles. - NO Flashing AT Temp light - Key Off>On (engine off). - No driving issues - no hard shifts, 'flaring'/RPM surges, nothing weird. - Drove it into Seattle w/out further issue. - My step-son is pretty observant and treats the OB very well...he wants it to make 300K! Anyone seen this as a precursor to something failing? I'm thinking maybe the AT pump is getting old or the coolant lines to the radiator are plugged/plugging? Thanks

I'm just going to disagree w/the above, w/an edit. Sensor is the wrong word. It's a mechanical device that is used on the '90-'98 (?) transmissions. However the cable was replaced in '95-'96-ish w/an electronic connector. The mech piece remained the same.

Likely the 'tab' on the end of the sensor Edit: Mechanical device. This is screwed into the pass. side of the trans. see attached.

Depends :-) ...Yes, for stock internals '90-'96. '97+ all Subarus were interference, AFAIK. But this this looks custom - wouldn't be surprised if some Wiseco forged are in there....which are probably lower compression to handle that big turbo, so less likely to be interference.

I'd need to see the top of the engine to tell specifically but it's a Phase 1 '90-'98 version, based on the valve (rocker) covers. The '97-'98 version had higher CR and may not like that turbo as much as the '90-'96 versions...assuming it's Stock internals?...but I see aftermarket or just newer-style top-feed fuel injectors, so maybe it's not much stock left.... That appears to be a good sized turbo (for a stock EJ22 anyway)....so another clue it's had some major engine upgrades? Cool rig...have fun.

Hi this LINK may be useful. I'd start w/the O2 sensor. I'd also clean the MAF sensor. ...use the MAF specific cleaner as I've read Brake Cleaner is too strong and the spray velocity can damage it. BTW, your MAF is the same as every other 2.2 (except turbo models) and 2.5 from '92-'98 (and '90-'91 Automatics). Injectors certainly may be getting old, but w/it running OK 'as is' I'm not sure. You can do a quick resistance test to verify they're around 11-12 ohms.

1996 was x-over to rollers w/the HLA's. Only year like that that I know of....and single-port exhaust as you likely know. This post has a pic of one, I believe: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/127313-spring-washer-rocker-arms/ Hmm, can't post youtube links, but Search 'Subaru HLA oil' to find a DIY.

Why do you need an All-Season in Las Vegas? Get a summer-specific tire: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/types/tiretype.jsp

I wonder if you could buy the immobilizer and related bits from a Salvage/Used Auto Parts yard and swap them. I've read (i think) that the immobilizer somehow even 'communicates' w/the engine to keep it from working unless they all 'match'. But if you could buy the parts, swap it and then have the dealer program it ASSUMING you have a matched immobilizer, ECU and (chipped) key, maybe? Obviously, having all the paperwork verified for the used (NOT STOLEN) parts and checking w/the Dealer first, before 'trying this @ home'.

No offense, but just to ensure we're all on the same page, this is what your KS looks (kinda) like, correct?