wtdash

>>.and take the cap off the brake master cylinder>>>make sure it doesn't overflow.

+1^ The Caliper bracket bolts that connect to the hub are 17mm. The caliper slider bolts are 14mm that connect to the bracket. There should be 2 holes that a 8 or 10mm bolt will screw into to 'push off' the rotor if stuck....like using a puller. Crank pulley is 22mm / 7/8". There's an access hole underneath the TB that a long screw driver or similar tool can be used to hold the flexplate - if an Automatic / 4EAT. 1990-1996 EJ22 had the HLA self-adustable valves ('90-'95 had dual port heads); '97-'98 were SLA (screw adjuster - '96-'98 had Single-port). Look under and see if you have a dual-port or Single-port exhaust to help determine the type. You might need to adjust the valves if SLA. I'd replace the plugs and wires b4 the coil pack....and they're usually cheap @ the local Pull and Save, if you're a visitor. There are FSM's posted online that can help w/these as well as many DIY posted on Youtube, etc. GL, Td

And your buddies @ NASIOC.com may have more WRX-specific info.

Hi, All maintenance records? Did the Tbelt include the idlers/pulleys, tensioner, WP/Tstat? Belts infrequently break; idlers and/or WP more frequently 'freeze'. Engine is INTERFERENCE. Autocheck/Carfax? Carfax may show some service history. HG will need done. i'm in the 'HG's are a maintenance item' camp (like Tbelt, etc.). Every EJ-series engine, esp. the 2.5, are prone to HG issues. Subarus can burn oil....but depends on How much? 1/2 way down is less than a Qt. (I think), but is more than I'd like to see. When was the last oil change? Maybe 4 months/ 4K miles ago makes sense. Last month/ 1K miles, is 'concerning'. Rear Separator plate can leak; Rear Main less so. ATF serviced or Clutch done? IMHO, 124K is where $$ things start to need replaced/repaired, so don't buy this if @ the limit of your budget. Ensure your bro has a few K to fix thing$.

Hi, This is a CVT transmission, and I don't think it's still an option. I looked thru the OM and it's not listing the old FWD fuse trick. It was on the pass. side strut tower in the '90's and moved to the fuse block by the battery later. Why? GL, Td

No offense, but this is also incorrect. 1996 was OBD2 (1995 for some Subaru models). The phase 2 was a '99+ for all the 4EATs. Although years may be 'the same time' in your book, I don't think most of USMB'ers would agree....there are just too many differences. Td

+1(000)

+1 AFIK, the keyless entry and/or alarm system is a DEALER installed option - not 'factory' - For the '96-'99 (?) models. Some installed per instructions;some didn't. I've found the button still attached - taped - to the keyless wiring harness. Find the 'brain/box' for the keyless system and then you'll find the button on one of the wires coming out of it.

Hi, I'm guessing you do have the remote keyless entry? It attaches to the alarm system, @ least I think it does. so if you find IT, the alarm system should be close by. GL, TD

Hi, The Front struts will bolt-in; the rears will not. You'll need to swap the 'top hats' /strut mounts on the rear struts - or whatever you call it in England. CAVEAT: I'm not clear on what 'rally' means in your British English. Is that a model/trim of WRX, a non-original Subaru suspension, or ??? And if the '04 in UK ALSO USES the 5x100mm bolt pattern like the USA, it should work. In the USA, 2005+ used 5x114.3mm bolt pattern and a different front strut bolt attachment. Td

For others' reference, too: There should also be a "momentary button switch" usually mounted by the left knee under the steering wheel dash area. See this: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code%20alarm

Probably this thingamajig. The spade on the end tends to break.

Besides what I stated above: New is going to be from a Subaru dealer for OEM......but some mark-up parts A LOT, others actually discount, or online like rallysportdirect. I's give this guy a call as his boss - Jason Douglas- always gave me the best online prices: Mike Weber Certified Parts Advisor Mike Scarff Subaru of Auburn 3025 Auburn Way N Auburn, WA 98002 866-528-5282 toll free Beware the cheap turbo. New turbos cost BIG $$ if genuine.

Welcome, Just to clarify, this is NOT the Outback/SUS model w/the 2.5/EJ25D engine, correct? But sounds like it's outfitted like an OB. If yours is the 2.2, it's what is known as the Phase 2 and has external leaks....still needs HG replaced. There's another post just 'down the road' w/a similar question and $500 was offered by GD, a local tech in Portland. That car had over 200K, which means yours 'should' be worth more. I know over here on the East side (Spokane-area), they're getting close to $1K for these....depending on how patient you are, the condition of the car, and whether you know if the engine has been overheated badly multiple times. If the latter, it'll need a complete new/rebuilt engine - not just HG. TD

'98 means it's out of a Legacy or Impreza w/the 2.2. Was the car's body thrashed? If not, it could be in there due a failed 4EAT....but not common. What's the ODO show? Did you check/smell the ATF? Drain a bit out/inspect the drain plug? I'd suspect (for an SVX) you'd also need the flexplate from the 2.2 - TC's on the 2.2 and 2.5's are different size....but that likely went w/the missing engine>>>and the rear diff, as mentioned. BTW, I don't know (much @ all ) about the SVX's rear pinion flange bolt spacing, but it changed in '95/'96 on other Subarus...you can -probably- move yours to the 4.11 rear diff, but again....not sure. In this case, I'd pass due the 'high zoot' stuff you found. This may have had an engine swap that taxed that ol' Auto. Personally, I'd hold out for an '96-'98 OB, (maybe GT) or '98 Forester 4EAT. Less likely to be abused and should provide some extra kick in the SVX. I'd pull the Carfax or Autocheck of the donor car - sometimes you can get service history (esp. w/the Carfax). (For <$10....if you search.) A '98 Impreza would have different rear strut top mounts/ top hats than your '96....you could swap yours over (depending on spring taper?) and they'd bolt up. The 2-pot will bolt up WITH the caliper brackets, but will likely require 16" wheels to clear. You can measure the diameter of the rotor to figure that out. GL, TD

You'll want to crawl underneath and look UP @ the HG area to check for leaks. ....Google it for pics. GL, TD

Indeed...too much swapping going on in my head w/the rocks. Thanks

No offense, but after that I'd just bite the wallet and get one from the dealer. I'm not clear what milkshake machine would do so can't comment on the symptoms (actually I used to make them w/one, but doesn't compute),. What did the shop advise besides getting a HD axle? GL, TD

Edit: Read the Post, wtdash.

Tangent: Does the horn work? If NOT then it's possibly related to the 'roll connector'/clockspring.

Sounds like EGR tube. You can try THIS, or you'll have to drill and tap that head.....that's what's done on most of the JDM imported engines when swapped.

HI, If your speedo is off 8% w/those tires, than something's not right. They sound too small/short. Did you verify this w/a GPS/ Phone App? Are you sure those 215/55R-17 are correct? What's shown on the driver's side door jam (in the UsA it lists tire sizes)? I ran an 1" taller tire on my last Subaru and that was off 8%, but expected. You can use something like this to compare tire sizes: https://tiresize.com/comparison/ The suspension shouldn't matter on the same vehicle....might be some changes to the inner fender wells so the tires don't rub, but unlikely. The 225/55R-17 should fit no problem, IMHO. And the Legacy / Outback year ranges for USA were 2000-2004, 2005-2009, 2010-2014, etc. ....every 5 years....Japan/JDM models are/were? one year ahead of USA.

HI, As we didn't get the 1.6 we may not be as helpful as your fellow Aussie Mates. You'll want to also check your PM to get familiar w/the FSM....your new best friend. TD

I see you got the codes but did you try the FWD fuse under the hood to confirm it's the Duty C? If it works and the TB goes away, it's NOT the Duty C it's the transfer clutches (mechanical). If it makes no diff, then it's the Duty C and electrical. Also, have you done the 3 Drains > Refills>>Drives routine to clean out the ATF? With 270K and living in FL, I'd probably just drive it w/the FWD fuse installed if it works?

HI, What T-stat? OEM or Xact are usually the only ones to use. Heater Core? You can bypass it to test. Could still need burped. Either use the radiator bleed valve or WHEN COLD fill the radiator and fill the upper tube from the radiator side 'til both are full.