DCor

Thanks, 1LT.

I bought a 2009 WRX a couple of months ago.....I LOVE this Car! She has spent her whole life in the Southern Ontario region of Canada & has never been winter driven! Truly in remarkable shape inside, outside, underneath, & under the hood......only 65000KMs. It has been upgraded with Cobb, Invidia, Perrin parts. I have thrown on a GrimmSpeed 3port electronic boost control solenoid, then had it Pro Tuned! She is running very, very well!! The only complaint I have is the sound system. The previous owner, (who took very great care of her), installed a stock 2010 AM/FM/CD with Navigation unit. It all works well but doesn't seem to go very load, in fact when the sunroof and windows are opened I can barely hear it....volume maxed at 40. Do you think I could just throw a power amp into the system? Or do I shop around for a more powerful head unit. I have the 2009 stock unit, it's a AM/FM/6CDchanger, would it be more powerful? Any advice is greatly appreciated, as always. Thanks.

Ok, got the job done. Due to time restraints, I ended up taking it my nephew's shop. He was surprised at how little time it took him, and he came across no issues. Had the Gates kit, with water pump installed. Removed the oil pump. The back plate screws were still very tight so he didn't touch them. New oil pump O-ring, re-sealed the pump to the block, replaced the crank & cam seals. I also had him fix a noisy exhaust leak by welding the driver's side header. He did an excellent job, took him about 5 hrs. The old timing belt was cracking in many places! The pulleys and tensioner were definitely old and had worn bearings. I noticed the difference right away in the smoothness off the start and while idling at a stop. I since have changed the power steering fluid and air filter. My baby is running like 150,000kms were taken off the odometer! Taking her down the Big Boulevard (401) to Toronto tomorrow! Thanks again, everyone...I love this group!!

Even more great advice....excellent! Got the Gates kit today, inspected it all as soon as I could get it opened up. Everything is as said by the others earlier on this page or around this forum. 2 things I did like to see.....a little tube of Loctite, and the water pump gasket is thin metal with rubber bead. It was packed with the thermostat ring underneath the plastic tray the rest of the parts were packaged in. Can't wait to get it done now. Looking like next Wed. I will now add that the instructions that came in the box were eligible!

Again....Thanks a ton for all the advice! The Gates kit is on it's way now & I picked up the four seals from Subaru this morning. Will let you all know how it goes by the end of next week! DC

Ok I am way more educated about my timing belt area now. The Gates kit with water pump looks great. Reading around here people are suggesting Crank & Cam seals, also the Oil Pump O-ring....is there a kit for these? Resealing the oil pump backing plate, is this a liquid gasket type of fix or is that another seal/gasket part? Lastly advised is to replace the lower TB cover seal. Are these all available off Amazon too or maybe dealer supplied only? Thanks.

WOW...thanks for all the prompt, well advised replies everyone!

Hello All, Besides reading the odometer and following recommended replacements are there other signs of when a timing belt needs to be replaced? My 2000 OBW has been driven pretty hard and has dealt with the past two long cold winters! It was new-to-me in 2008, and the previous owner gave me all invoices, one which claims to have had the belt changed almost 12 years ago at 117,000 Kms. it now has 275,000.

Hi & Happy Thanksgiving to my fellow Canadian Suubites! 2000 Outback Wagon, 4cyl. automatic with 259,000 kms on her. I have noticed a clunkie type of feeling/sound when hitting the gas after a period of coasting. Seems to be happening more often lately, and perhaps more prominent when a downshift occurs while coasting. Any ideas? I was thinking maybe U-joint or maybe tranny issues.

I know it's been quite awhile but I wanted to finish off my P0446 code experience. After checking & cleaning, or replacing, many of the parts and areas advised to, it ended up being a serverly corroded wire connection to the O2 sensor!! Cleaned it all up and it has been running without the light coming on for months.

I was able to get a 7/16th bolt. Very carefully re-tapped the threads though the floorboard, and it worked!! On to tightening my factory mud flaps before too much snow flies up here! Thanks to valvestem & Rooster2 for your suggestions. Love this forum!

My front left bolt mount threads are semi-striped, enough that the bolt won't hold tight anymore. I believe it is a #10 bolt. I'm thinking of tapping the floor threads to one size larger, and replacing the bolt with the larger size. Wondering if anyone has run into this problem before, and if there may be some advice for me. Really don't want to make this problem worse...already lucky the car has an auto trans!!!

So I think I FINALLY have the error code licked, go for a run & boom, on comes the light again Check the code and now it's P0443! Getting frustrated with this EVap stuff!

Thanks again Cougar, for your insight and advice. I did a bit more investigating today. Tested the wire to the purge control soleniod valve while the engine was running and got very close to 14v. When I did the Ohm cross pin check on the pcsv itself I got nothing, but when I put a contact on each pin I got 26.5 Ohms. Now for the vaccuum cycle. The line to the top on the IAC sucks toward it. When I connect that tube onto one of the pcsv ports it stops, and then that same line on the other port it flows though the valve. I am under the impression that it should be hooked up the former, as to stop the flow at the valve. Is this correct? I called my local dealership and they told me the pcsv was roughly $250!!! Thanks but no thanks. No one else stocks them around here. Is a wrecker a good option, you think? I also did an inspection in and around the gas filling pipe. took the door off then the metal flange, and the plastic fitting that the door release cable and drainage tube is connected to, all very nice and clean in through there. Actually hard to believe it is a 2000 and Canadian winter driven! But what a nightmare to try to get that tube and the door cable back in place, Wow. Is there a trick to that procedure. Where does the other end of that drain tube go to? Another day of learning more about my pride and joy...HA!

Well I'm actively investigating this P0446 code, again. I have had the PURGE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE off, cleaned the connector, checked the tubes, all looks good there. Took off the Cannister, Drain Valve, and Drain Filter, again cleaned the connector to the Drain Valve, all the tubes are in good condition there too. My copy of the FSM does not direct you to the area on the car the parts are at. I am now looking for a couple more parts, but just can't find them. Need help...Please. 1) FUEL TANK PRESSURE SENSOR / ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SOLENOID VALVE 2) PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE The pics of these items in my FSM make them look nice and simple to view, but not to me. Thanks for any help in direction. What else could I check out? DC. Guess I should ad it's a 2000 OBW 2.5, so you don't have to read that a few pages back!