wtdash

Hi, First - any turbo upgrade requires a new tune of the ECU. There may be opensource options such as RomRaider and ECUFlash - w/the Tactrix cable - and requires someone skilled to use them, or COBB may make an AP tuner that'll work. Otherwise it's risky to put on any bigger turbo. Price really depends on the path chosen. $150 on low end; $500+ is easy if you get on a dyno and have it pro-tuned. Personally, I always suggest people get a tune - even on a stock turbo car - to get better performance AND reliability/longevity out of the engine. The stock TD04 is a good turbo if you want to keep the turbo lag @ minimum - it's not as bad w/a 5-speed - as it'll pull from 2500K RPM. You can run them up to 16-17PSI before they're just blowing hot air. Stock is about 12psi, IIRC. So that's another 40-50HP/torque (potentially). And yes, turbos are a maintenance item - like a timing belt, tune up, etc. - as they'll fall apart and send bad stuff INTO the engine. Another common upgrade is an STI turbo: VF39/43/48 - will all bolt on and should fit the TMIC w/slight modifications. Baja's HAVE THE SAME INJECTORS as AN STI from '04-'07, so you're good there...but as stated YOU'LL NEED A TUNE. I would definitely consider replacing the stock turbo inlet pipe, too. Yes, it's PITA to replace. The Aftermarket - name brands - w/silicone hose are better. It's very important to be changing the oil regularly @ 3500 mile or less w/ synthetic, remove/replace the turbo and oil line filter / screens, and keep the other maintenance items up to date. I'm not a big fan of used/higher-mileage Subaru turbo engines, as they just don't hold up, but maybe that's due to the fact that peeps treat them like any old NA engine and they get neglected??? NASIOC is still a good resource for used parts, as is Ebait.. VERY important to take heed of a Seller's Feedback to ensure some level of buyer confidence. BTW< the Baja uses the same turbo as the '04-'08 Forester XT, and '02-'07 WRX - TD04 (I'd reuse your stock wastegate as there were some changes thru the years)....even though the Baja is more like a Legacy GT/Outback XT - they used a different style turbo flange and TMIC and aren't easily compatible. GL, TD

Hi, If the 4EAT and/or the Duty B is dying there may be codes stored in the TCU - trans computer. Does the POWER light flash when you initially start it? TD

^+1 I don't see that #12 code often, and the #35 is a common 'extra code' caused by something else - Fix the Knock Sensor and O2. The KS frequently CRACKED and there was a Recall (?) for the '90-'95 version. I'd check it ...as a bad one will put your car in 'Limp' mode but shouldn't affect starting.

CM, "My nephew was on the ball and before I could even report what I was told here, he will drain the fluid , and replace...". Just to clarify, and not be (too) picky, he'll need to either do a flush (assuming a shop has the tools), or do what some of us backyard mechs do and Drain>Refill>Drive x 3 times. to get the majority of the ATF out of there - half is in the pan and will drain out; half is in the TC / Torque Converter and will not. I think the 4EAT / Automatics hold about 10 quarts, per OM: Also, and I may be in the minority - so 'grain of salt' - but I'm not a fan of chemical or power ATF flushes on cars over 100K IF they've never had a trans service. It might cause grief w/the seals = walking home. If you'd had it done and yours is used to the every 30K mile ATF service it's likely not a problem.

Hi, Since you're just a bit north of me in BC, I'm guessing that's 200K KMs, not Yankee miles, correct? 120K miles is NOT a lot, but I will tell (warn) you that the likelihood of Head Gasket repair is looming. But remember, car payments are usually less than car repairs - over the course of a year....but being stranded is another cause for concern. - and it sounds like your wife is already looking for a new car...... I personally wouldn't blame a mech/Nephew for not seeing a frozen caliper. When those Tire Changers are swapping Winter>>Summer they likeliy do it in their sleep considering the dozens/hundreds/thousands (?) a season they do.* What's the rust like on cars in GF? In N. Idaho it's not as big a deal as the midwest/new england states that salt to taste and then add another serving...just in case they missed a spot. If you're in a rust-belt, then a frozen caliper is gonna happen. Edit: I re-read this, "Note the brakes had been done only a year and a half prior to this" so What was done on the prior brake service? New pads? Rotors? They can 'turn rotors' on the car, so they may not have had to touch the calipers (unless I don't know how that's done>>>GD?) GL, Td * Tangent: I had a set of cheap chrome hub caps/wheel covers on an old '85 Subaru w/the black steel wheels. Once when I took it in for a tire change, they took the cover for the real thing and broke two 'chrome lug nuts' off b4 they figured it out. They glued 'em back on and I was good to go.

As noted, that 60-65mph vibration is frequently a tire balance issue. Seems to be the perfect speed for it to show up. They put the out-of-balance tire(s) on front.

they've done that: I'd be looking @ the cam or crank sensors and the MAF. Has it ever just stopped running, but then start right back up? sure sign of a bad MAF. Check your codes here: http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm If the CEL is NOT on...do it anyway as there's likely something stored - per the instructions. GL, TD

HI and Welcome, Have you put a Code scanner on it? whether or NOT the CEL is on, there may codes stored in the ECU/computer that'll help. usually, we'll suggest people ensure the Tune-up is UP TO DATE - plugs, wires, aiir/fuel filters,etc. Is this the 2.2 w/5-speed or 2.5 w/4EAT (Automatic)? I'd pick on the CTS/coolant temp sensor, MAF/Mass airflow sensor, and Cam or Crank sensors. TD

Yeah...as stated above, your choices are actually 3 very different cars...that all happen to have the same logo. Based on your initial post, get the Impreza in whatever body style - sedan or hatch - fits your needs. - It'll have the lowest operating costs (gets the best MPG, too) - future tune-ups, oil changes, tires, etc. - Cheapest insurance - ? Caveat: Florida doesn't get a whole lot of snow, so the AWD of the WRX or Impreza doesn't do much good. RE: comparing differences in Impreza, this site has a ton of info: http://www.cars101.com and for the 2017 Impreza: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/impreza/impreza2017.html

Check for STORED codes>>>>HERE.

+1 Found this from one of my regular online resources - see attached - should be for RHD models, per the cover. I can PM the link to the full manual if needed. Looks like 9.4:1.

G'day, We didn't get that engine in the US so not a heap of info, but here's a bit: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine#EJ16 GL, TD

+1 As a side-note, the '03 should be MAP-based ECU system whereas the '05 is MAF-based - and maybe one has EGR?. So...don't throw out the '05's IM and harness...you'll want to move it on over tot he '03's engine. Not sure, but I think both use TOP-feed injectors so the '03's 70K ones may work in the '05's fuel rails. If the LL Bean has that self-leveling suspension there may be some tricks to swapping it out, too (I've never done that)..... but the '03 should still fit...being Legos and all. :-) Td

Howdy, Pull out the ashtray, get down under the steering wheel and look UP @ the two screws inside the upper lip (?) of the ash tray bracket..Voila! You'll need a stubby or right-angle phillips to get @ those two. Td

Hi, No quick answer, but that's under warranty and I'd be taking back to the dealer for their opinion. Ensure you document it so in case there IS a problem later you can show them that you were being 'proactive'.

Hi, My experience on a '96 subaru Legacy is that they do NOT include the harness, but maybe I didn't look hard enough when I swapped in seats. Not sure on the Forester. Get a FSM/fact. serv. manual for the Forester to view the wiring. The OB seats MAY sit low in the Forester, but they will bolt in. The OB seats do have a HEight adjustment, which may help.

Hi, See attached which 'should' be a part of the Owner's Maintenance booklet - additional to the Owner's Manual. Also, I like to see the CARS101.com website for Maintenance info, too. I don't see anything referring to the 'severe use' category used on older models. But depending on how you drive (commute?) you may want to favor the more pro-active maintenance options to keep your Subie happy. GL, Td 2011 Legacy Maintenance Schedule.pdf

Hi and Welcome, Although covered on here, and online, the short answer is 'the 1996 should work'. I'm not saying you're 'wrong' about the input shaft, but this is the 1st time I've heard of that issue. What's the TZ code on the '96? Longer answer: Any transmission from '90-'98 will bolt up, but the Final Drive Ratio is the main difference: For Automatic = 4EAT - Legacy, Forester, Impreza: '90-'91 = 4.11 '92-'94 and all '91-'94 Turbos = 3.90 '95 are all 4.11 '96-'98 EJ22/2.2 = 4.11 '96-'98 EJ25/2.5 = 4.44 I suggest you read up some more as there are other things to watch out for. GL, TD

cars101.com may have some help....look for Programming Keyless info....looks like only back to 2010, but search. GL, Td

"Hello everyone, just had the ej25 motor blow up on my 99 OBW," This supposedly WAS the Phase 2 (EJ253?) engine w/earlier pistons and DOHC heads, correct? or RU both stating the EJ251 is the better choice? I thought it (251 vs 253) was just a MAP-based vs. MAF difference?

Didn't read it all but maybe the LC crew can help HERE.

^ Mr. G. The '96 OB had the 2.2 w/the 5speed; 2.5 w/the 4EAT. '95 had a Legacy OB, but was an "L" model w/different colors. No 2.5, no raised roof or suspension, etc. - per Cars101.com.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

And FWIW, I believe ONLY the '90-'91 are interchangeable......'92-'94 are different enough to not work (plug wiring,etc) although they look/function the same from the driver's seat.

I'm NOT trying to pick a fight (I'd lose), but in the last 10 years of reading about and working on Subies I've never seen one.....although these rumors persist? So, I'll believe it when I see it. :-)