wtdash

as noted above...does it when still cold and warmed-up? Thinking CTS. What about a loose vac line? MAF can be cleaned, but they fail often enough to be suspect. If it were a clogged CC, I'd 'think' you'd pop a 420 (UR in WA so whatcha expect? :-) )

hi, should be plenty of posts about bypassing the starter switch on here/online, and that' the only one that would cause a 'no start' AFAIK.

^just the messenger.

Since PB decided to its users, I'm posting this up. Update: There are 2 extensions - Chrome and Firefox - I found and tested (on Chrome only) that work. Add the extensions and fotobucket links start working again. Posted on the Legacy Centrals site, so 'should' be legit: https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/photobucket-fix/ https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg Also, I originally had this info, which may still work: Thanks to Mr. P. Olsen on NASIOC who states this works 90% of the time ('til PB finds out?).

^ + bubbles and oily residue. HG,

Search came up w/this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142640-p1443-cel-code-evap-system-fix/

+1 on Car-part.com....I'd add your '05 is 'unique' in that it's the 1st year of the return of the MAF-based systems of the EJ253 AND the year prior to the i-avls variable cams on the '06+ models.. I'd bet you're limited to ONLY '05 Impreza non-turbo and MAYBE '05 Foresters, and it needs to match your transmission.

Hi, I'd still check for codes...cel or not. Check your Grounds? ECU/ECM going bad? PCV valve - related to oil issue?

Hi Larry, Just to confirm...do the horn and Cruise work? If not...then it's the likely the clockspring. GL, TD

PM sent

^1...please believe what Mr. idosubaru posted. It's accurate....you'll cause yourself a LOT of grief going newer....many have tried, failed, and moved on.

^yeah...I was going to mention the 1.8, but it's got its own EGR that may cause grief w/the 2.5's. And the ECU may not run the 2.2/ 2.5 injectors.

Did this overheat - ever? - If so, it may run for another 100K or <5K....depends on how badly the rod bearings were damaged - if @ all. As you've probably read, HG fail = Overheat = (more likely) bottom-end bearing failure. So, yeah...these engines deserve their infamous reputation. p.s. It'll also run in a Legacy from '90-'94....more work, but swap the TB and IM harness, and it's pretty much the same as described above.

Hi, Just 'adding fuel' doesn't do you any good w/out Engine Management (EM). Are you coming from another brand/background that you have for reference? If you're new to cars in general than there's a ton of info online about upgrading a car's fueling needs, but it's not 'just because'. The main issue w/the EJ22's is the lack of tuning options. If yours is in a '90-'94 there are limited options; if '95-'01 basically none that don't require a lot of wiring - harness merging, ECU-swapping, etc. Do a search on NA-T -turbocharging a non-turbo Subaru - for info....been done many times and as long you're not greedy it'll run for a long time too. My Link. TD

Don't know what you're stating...but I updated my post above to clarify FUEL filter. I wouldn't bother with EITHER filter. GL, TD

Recommendation: -Do the standard (on here @ least) Drain>Refill>Drive (thru all the gears a few miles) 3/Three times and be done with it....sounds like the Subaru ATF is recommended (required?). - As the fuel filter is in tank, find something else to obsess on...like the HG.... FWIW: I 'assume' the filter in the tank is a cost-saving/cutting measure. It's not really all that tough to access a fuel pump/sender/filter on a Subaru (or wasn't on these getting older models).

The trans filter is on the driver's side...looks just like an OIL filter. It's designed to last the life of the car. But if the fluid's never been changed it may be worth doing. IMHO, DO NOT just buy a Wix or other 'oil filter' - get the genuine Subaru filter. The fuel filter is either by the driver's side strut tower or in the tank....not sure when that changed on Subarus....more searching and you'll get your answer...just Google it.

I'm referring to either an aftermarket 'kit' or DIY. Nothing as 'fancy' as a Subaru-based upgrade. You can find these on Amazon, etc. for $20 and they bump your voltage to the HL bulbs a couple of volts, which means BRIGHTER lights. Like THIS....ensure it's designer for you HL socket type, H3, H2, etc type socket.

...and consider buying/building a relay kit to get Full juice to the HL...makes a big difference, IMHO.

^QFT

Wrong forum. But i have a set...look here if it's what you need, let me know.

You wrench? Pull and Save that rear VC (if that's the issue) to replace yours. The trans doesn't need to come out (if it's @ all like fixing the 4EAT's TB issue).

Looking @ the OF site, I found your *-3AA under the other engine listed for the Forester (there are 2 NA 2.5's and the turbo 2.5), which shows an earlier mfg. date. As yours is an early-ish '03 (build date in 10/02) there may have been a change mid-year. To answer your question, I can't - directly. But if they both use the same speedo sensor, it 'should' be OK....somewhere in there Subaru changed to a wheel-sensor/ABS (?) based speedo vs. the one in the trans by the dipstick on the pass. side. Per OF, the FD ratio of both is 4.11.

FWIW...225-60-16 rubbed on the rear struts of my OB-strutted '96 Legacy. Strut and Lift upgrades are covered on here 'ad infinitum' so please search. Quick answer: Get some '96-'99 OB struts or '98-'08 Forester struts, and spacers (Paranoid Fabrications is one). Bolt-on, alignment recommended, and Go.

Not to be too picky, but a 205-55-16 (24.9" tall), which is the stock tire size for some Imprezas of those years, or a 205-50-16 (24.1") would be closer to your stock 185-70-14's height (24.2") and won't mess w/your speedo as much. But if you want a little 'lift' Gloyale's will give you that, too....the 225-55-16 may rub on the rear spring perches. Probably wouldn't go over 215 on the width.