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Found 5 results

  1. I have an 86 BRAT that has a leaky fuel tank. Now as many of you probably know you can't get new tanks for these. I've cleaned it up and repaired it about 90% of the way, I used some sheet metal and solder. However my solder joints leak in a couple places and refuse to seal. Does anyone know if something like red line tank sealant is safe to use? The insides of these tanks have a web of fuel pick up lines, which is why I haven't used a sealant even after all this time. For fear of it sealing those lines and ruining my tank. Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.
  2. Hi all, EJ251 block/EJ25D heads in '98 OBW, 5MT Recent work done in the past year: Plugs (ngk) wires (ngk) Timing belt kit (oem) Timing cam gears (oem) Cleaned and swapped out IACV Swapped out MAF Swapped out TPS New Fuel Pump, Strainer, Filter, Pressure Regulator New OEM Oxygen sensor Compression test cylinders 1-4: 214, 205, 225, 209 (unsure if these numbers are good for a High Compression build, it is consuming some oil. Maybe a half quart to full quart every few months of mostly short trips and some highway) I live in Las Vegas, and the temperatures are now at the usual hot. When city driving during the heat of the day, the engine will idle very low (has approached stalling, entire car shutters/shakes) and will often bob up and down +/- 100 rpm. It seems to be at its worse always when the fuel tank is at or below half-filled. If I use the A/C it helps with the issue because of the idle-up function. I've checked for vacuum leaks with a propane tank, and can't find anything. If I unplug a vacuum line, the engine idles up. Upon startup for the first 5 minutes, the exhaust smells very rich. Should I be looking to test next? The valves are kinda loud, should I do a leak-down test? When I press the accelerator pedal, from 1800 rpm to 2500 rpm, the motor behaves as if it is unbalanced. Anything above 2500, it is smooth and responsive. I am using an air intake from a '96 legacy wagon... is that an issue? Too restrictive? Any help would be appreciated. Greg
  3. I cannot add gas to a 2009 Impreza (with around 65,000 miles). I have seen dozens of complaints about this issue on different message boards, and of the 41 complaints on the NHTSA site about this vehicle, 5 of them are about this same issue. When I attempt to pump gas (with the tank less than 1/4 full), the gas simply spews out of the car and lands all over the place. I have taken it to the dealer, and they say that the canister purge solenoid valve needs to be replaced. They said the part is $140 and the labor is $413. Before I allow them to continue with this repair, I was wondering if anyone on this board can confirm for me that this will resolve the issue, and if the price quoted sounds resaonable. Additonally, should there be a check engine light on for this issue? Because in my case, there is not. I am wondering if the lack of a check engine light could signify an issue with the ECM? Also, since this issue seems to fairly common and well-documented, and it appears the part they want to replace is related to EVAP or emissions (and it is a safety issue due to spewing gas and the possibility of being stranded without being able to add gas), is it possible that Subaru would do a goodwill repair on this? The dealer said no way (they wouldn't even give me loaner!), but do I have any other recourse? I just find it hard to believe that they would know about this issue which is obviously a defect of the car, and charge the customer to have it repaired. Any help or insight would be much appreciated.
  4. Hi everyone, I'm in the UK where the L-Series was never massively popular but I've had 4 over the years and I'm doing a rolling restoration on my old red one. The last MOT for my 1992 l-series estate was ok but for a leaking petrol tank. I dropped the tank out of the car, decanted the fuel, washed out the tank and used a tank-sealing resin to seal up the various leaks. I then put it all back in and it passed the MOT. But now it's leaking again - either the repairs did not hold or it's sprung another hole. Anyway, I need to find another tank. Any suggestions - If the price is not too bad I could ship from overseas to UK but really I'm hoping to find a new-old-stock in the UK or close. Does the tank from the MV/Brat/Pickup fit? best wishes all, Nick
  5. Hi all, My trusty 1992 UK spec 1.8 L-series 4x4 Estate failed it's MOT last week due to a leaking petrol tank. I've removed the tank today and have found very small leaks in the rear seam and, in addition, two of the outlet pipes sheared off when I disconected their rubber pipes - they were really rusty. Here's my question I hope you can help me wirth: At the front of the tank it's the outlet that has sheared off while the return is OK. At the side near the filler it is the small breather (?) that has sheared while the other pipe connection (what is it?) is OK What I need to know is, are there one-way valves built into these tubes within the tank. There was a little bit of fuel still left in the tank when I removed it and both the unbroken pipes would not drain fuel when the tank was tipped while the broken pipes pissed it out. I intend to weld on some new pipes to replace the old ones and would normally clear the others with some compressed air but, if there are valves inside, I don't want to damage them. Further, would a SLOSH tank sealant mess them up? My Haynes is no use at all on this subject and was completely incorrect concerning tank removal and does not tell me what the small tubes at the side actually do. Best wishes all, Nick
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