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Found 37 results

  1. It’s kind of crazy to think how long I’ve been in the Subaru game and yet I’ve never replaced a 2.5 head gasket! I only want to deal with this repair once, hence this thread: I was under my wife’s 1999 Forester for an oil change over the weekend and noticed the bottom of the driver’s side of the engine was COVERED with engine oil. I had long suspected that it was the cam seal leaking, but the volume of oil and the area it covered has been slowly growing over the last few oil changes. A little research revealed that the EJ253 in this Forester likes to pop its head gasket and then leaks oil externally, which correlates with what I’m seeing. We lose about 1-2 quarts of oil between changes (I top it up often) but the engine doesn’t appear to burn any oil (no smoke out the tailpipe, hot or cold). The head gaskets were originally replaced at 78k miles (w/ P/N 11044AA633 head gaskets) and the engine now has about 205k miles on it now. We’re past due for a timing belt as well, so here is the list of parts that we’ve got so far: Timing Belt Parts: Timing belt Tensioner/idlers Crank pulley bolt Water pump & gasket Thermostat & gasket Cam seals F/R Crank seals A/C idler pulley Oil pump reseal/O-ring kit I’ve been doing a bunch of research on what else I should touch “while I’m in there.” In past posts @GeneralDisorder has suggested changing out the piston rings, installing knurled pistons and upgrading to a 10 mm oil pump. I will have the heads milled (if still in spec) but what else should I consider? Valvetrain work? Is there anything I can do to help oil drain back to keep the pistons from getting clogged? Head Gasket Parts: 770 head gaskets Exhaust manifold gaskets Intake manifold gaskets Valve cover gaskets Valve seals (int. & exh.) (I’ve read that the SOHC engines have a tendency to drop exhaust valve guides and that these should be knurled to keep them from dropping?) Sparkplug tube seals Valve cover bolt grommets Misc. Parts: Spark plugs Spark plug wires 10mm oil pump PCV valve Knock Sensor (original is cracked) Battery cables/tie down/j-bolts (battery terminals/tie down are fuzzy and have read this is a potential cause of driver’s side gasket failures) So, flame suit on, please let me know what you think of my parts list! Are there obvious omissions? Are there parts I could swap in for little expense that will help power/longevity (such as uprated camshafts, pistons, etc.?) Note, this isn’t a performance build, so I’m not thinking about forged, high-compression pistons or anything, but if there is an OEM piston that I could swap in that would provide a slight performance advantage, I would be interested in something like that, or Delta Cams, etc. How far away from a Frakenmotor would I be? Would an STI oil pan be something to install?
  2. I'm trying to start a '93 Loyale with SPFI that has had the heads off. The problem is that it won't start. It gets fuel - have seen the injectors spraying in the intake. The #1 spark plug wire fires a timing light so I think there is spark. The engine ran rough for a few seconds initially and now won't run. There have been a few ignitions when I hold the gas pedal all the way down thinking that the problem is that the cylinders are flooded. I'm sure I got the timing belts on correctly - but I will recheck. (Cam sprocket mark up when the flywheel in on the ||| mark.) What I am not too sure of is the initial position of the distributor. I followed the EA82 Service Manual directions in section 2-3 on page 26. I turned the crank to #1 at TDC as noted by the flywheel mark and the cam timing mark being 45deg left of top-center (Fig 44 of the manual). I aligned the marks on the distributor shaft to set the rotor to the #1 cylinder and this matched the #1 spark plug wire. When I insert the shaft into the cam housing with the "feet" of the distributor lined up with their final posiiton, the beveled gears cause the shaft to turn a bit in the clockwise direction. This puts it off the original position. Is that what is supposed to happen? What I did was inserting the distributor so that after it is in and lined up in the ballpark of how it is screwed down, the rotor is pointing to the #1 cylinder terminal. I used the timing light while the engine was cranking (not running, to test connector set), the timing was close to the timing mark at 20 deg BTDC. Is this what is supposed to happen? Also, I don't know where this idle switch is or what the test mode connector is. There are 2 connectors near the fuel filter that were disconnected and I don't remember disconnecting them. Both ends of the wires come out of the same wire bundle at the same point. Under the dash, near the SPFI controller, there are 2 connectors hanging down with nothing to plug in to. Suggestions appreciated.
  3. Hi All, This is my first post here. I recently did a timing belt on my 1999 Legacy Outback Wagon, with a new water pump. Job went well, all parts bolted up and timing came out fine, no problems running now. However, even after burping the cooling system with a radiator bucket, multiple times, the car still overheats and I don't feel heat. There are no signs of a blown head gasket that I can tell, the car runs fine and doesn't smell or smoke or anything, has full power. What should my next step be? I replaced the thermostat with a genuine Subaru thermostat. My water pump is one of the old style pumps, with the teeth as opposed to the disc. Help!! I'm not sure what to do!
  4. Looking for help got snagged ,,did the heads and valves all gaskets,,looking for someone to explain how to time it .From the distr, cams. and the crank.Engine is still on the bench.
  5. So I just put a new timing set on my 86 GL-10 4WD Wagon and it won't start. I'm 95% sure the timing belts are on right. The car has fuel, spark, equal compression in all four cylinders, and the ignition timing is spot on. I pulled the intake off and cranked it over and there was air coming out of the intake on the compression stroke. Does anyone know if this is just a valve timing issue or something else?
  6. So I've got a 86 GL-10 4wd Turbo Wagon. A while back I was headed home from work and and the car just died. No noise what so ever. I just died. I got it home and checked some things out and I ended up pulling the timing covers off. The passenger side belt was just fine, but the every tooth on the drivers side belt had been chewed off. Both cams roll just fine as well as the crank. I rebuilt the motor from the heads up in may of 2016 so everything is fresh. I put a new Dayco timing kit on when rebuilding it so there shouldn't be any problems. It's an easy fix I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything. Any ideas on what could have happened?
  7. haydenmtaylor

    EA82 Timing

    Hey everyone, Recently, I got back from a holiday and had my 89'GL sitting there for a month. It got driven a couple of times, but was dead when I got home. I replaced the spark plugs and she was up and running. Ever since though, it's ran like crap. Shakes with a very low idle, back fires when changing gears/de-accelerating and has bad fuel economy. I came to think it could just be time for a timing service. I have all the gear, new water pump (while I'm down there), timing light, compression kit etc and know how to test each thing. However, I'm just confused as to what order each part should be tested in? Disty, Ignition, Belt, Carbu idle speed? Cheers all! Hayden
  8. I recently picked up a nice rust free 1997 Legacy 2.2 with a broken timing belt. I’ve gotten it started a few times but I am convinced the timing is still off. I was wondering if anyone on this page could offer any additional help. Things I know: Car is vinned as a 97 Inspection plates states that it was manufactured in August of 96 Motor is an ej22, non-interference motor – confirmed by grooved and stamped valve covers. Timing belt was broken while running. No other work has been performed on the vehicle since the timing belt was broken. Vehicle is not currently throwing any codes. Things I was told: Vehicle was running well with no check engine light on prior to timing belt breaking. Since I’ve taken possession of the car I have replaced the timing belt. The belt shows the appropriate amount of teeth, 44 to the passenger side, 40.5 to the driver side from crank notch. All the ears are present on the crank sprocket, I’ve lined the hash on the rear of the crank sprocket to the hash by the crank position sensor (approx. 12 o’clock) with the keyway facing down. I’ve lined the cam gears up with the belt, with the hash mark on the face of the gear facing upwards in the 12 o’clock position, in line with the notch in the timing belt cover. In this configuration the tdc triangle on the crank is in the 3 o’clock position, and the tdc arrows on the cams are up and to the right, 45 degrees clockwise from tdc. All pulleys, pumps, and idlers spin freely, tensioner is not leaking oil and takes a couple minutes in a vise to reset with a pin. I’ve had this timing belt on and off close to ten times, with at least 5 sets of eyes (all car guys and two professional mechanics) to verify timing. I’ve spun the crank multiple times and rechecked timing. Car has occasionally started, but starts hard and runs rough. While attempting to start, and performing the wot/clear cylinder procedure, and then applying half throttle, car pops and back fires violently. All of my experience leads me to believe the car is still out of time. There are a lot of knowledgeable guys on this forum, I’m hoping one of you can point me in the right direction. I’ve working on cars my entire life, and have an entire professional mechanics shop at my disposal. Any advice would be appreciated.
  9. So i am prepping parts for my spfi swap and most of the links on here regarding the swap are broken or dead or lead somewhere else. I need to know the proper orientation of the gear from my ea81 disty on my spfi disty shaft, ive read about people consistently ending up "1/2 tooth off" and i would like to avoud that if possible. Should the new hole be in line with the original or perpendicular, anythin.. thanks
  10. Hi all. I have a 2000 Outback Limited, EJ25 SOHC. It just came to me with 155,000 mi and no idea if/when the timing belt has been done. It also need to remove the rocker covers and replace those seals, as I am getting oil in the spark plug holes. The question is can both the timing belt and rocker covers be done in the car? I have done the same jobs to a 1996 DOHC Outback but that time I already had the engine out, so it was simple. This time I have no other reason to remove the engine, but I can if it makes more sense. The potential benefit of pulling it is, that I can then check the rear seal and the oil separator. But again I have no evidence of a problem there. Any advice is welcome.
  11. Hi all, I'm still in the assembly stage of rebuilding my engine (2.5L DOHC), but I've come across a weird issue. The new timing belt kit that came with my reman'd block, I just broke into it the other day to start putting the new sprockets on. The first sprocket one I opened, I bolted it on loosely just to see how it looked and feel the bearing, and to my surprise it wiggles. I'm not joking, this brand new never used sprocket, the bearing wiggles like a worn out bearing, though it's still tight when you spin it like a fresh bearing should be. I don't know about you but I'm getting a red flag about this, does anyone have any ideas on whether or not to use it? Thanks in advance, David
  12. just wondering what timing i should run with my EA82M (Mongrel) engine.. everyone has been telling me that it wouldnt run right, if at all. ive already done a 3 mile run up hill holding 6 psi boost the entire time and it never leaned out, i have my original timing for now cuz i dont have a timing light yet (22* or 24*) i have 02 readings in car at all times and havent had any problems yet runs perfect, just have to finish up my vaccum system now!! thanks for the help!
  13. I was driving down the freeway the other day and lost power steering and battery light came on. Pulled over and saw the main belt had come off.. crankshaft pulley / harmonic balancer was wobbling all over the place. Got the car towed to my Grandpa's shop and took mostly everything apart. Does anyone have tips for removing this crankshaft sprocket? The woodruff key I believe broke in half and part of it is still on the crankshaft. We have tried almost everything in the book to get the crankshaft sprocket / gear off and it won't budge. This type of thing is a little bit out of my ballpark maintenance wise however I have a mechanic coming on Monday to check it out. If anyone has some tips on how we can get this sprocket off so we can check out the rest of the crank to make sure it's ok I would very much appreciate it. Thank you
  14. My Loyale, which I finally put on the road less than a month ago, has been going through a million issues, which I fix according to the priority of the problem. But it IS on the road!!! Current problem is reaching urgent. As I try to recall from the '92 I had, it feels similar. I believe I may either have fuel filter blockage, or injectors plugged. It now will hesitate fairly severely going up any type of incline, which I can push it through with more gas, but it kinda feels like a plugged fuel filter. Am doing that today or tomorrow, adding injector cleaner, and will see after that if it is resolved or not...
  15. I just finished putting my new timing belt on. Checked cam & crank sprocket position markings carefully per Haynes manual, pulled tensioner pin, then checked marks again and counted teeth between sprockets just to make sure all was right. The Haynes manual advises turning the crank clockwise at least 2 full revolutions by hand, prior to starting engine, to make sure all is well. I encountered a springy resistance at a little less than half a turn of the crankshaft. (Requires increasing force with rotation, I gave it up to maybe 40-60 foot-pounds before stopping for fear I'd break something). I don't recall feeling this resistance when I was turning the crank with the old belt installed. Did I do something wrong? Should I be worried? Note that I turned cam sprockets back and forth some while belt was removed---removed & replaced them all to replace cam seals. But as I said above, I'm certain the new timing belt is positioned correctly relative to all sprockets.
  16. Hey guys, I just pulled the engine and did the head gaskets on my EJ251 legacy wagon. As I was about to install my new timing belt, I realized that I am entirely unable to get the left side cam sprocket timing marks to line up! The repair manual and multiple internet resources show that the mark should be going pretty much straight up towards a notch in the rear timing cover. My cover happens to be chipped, but I can see where the notch used to be. For some reason, the cam sprocket just won't stay where it *should* be, the tension whips the cam far to either side of it (YES, my crank timing mark is lined up properly, all pistons are recessed, I didn't just destroy my valves). These are the closest places to the timing mark that the cam will rest. Timing hash on cam is indicated with red line. Timing mark on timing cover is indicated with a yellow line. What is going on here?? I have read on multiple articles AND the manual that there should be no tension on cam when it is at proper point, this isn't some weird Audi that I should need special clamps for. Thanks for the help!
  17. I have a 2008 impreza, 2.5i, SOHC. I just replaced the blown motor with a used motor with 60,000 miles on it. Replaced all the timing components except for the cam gears. When I tried to start the car, the motor wouldn't turn on it's own. From what I've been told, the camshaft position sensor communicates with the raised bars on the back of the left side cam gear which come in 2 bar, and 7 bar varieties. My question is, how do you tell what kind of cam gear you need for the car to start? I don't have the original motor anymore as it was turned in for a core refund after we transferred over all of the accessories. Any other applicable advice is welcome and I can provide more info about the car as needed. Thanks in advance! - Bryan
  18. So my 94 Loyale will semi-start if I hold the throttle to the floor. When it does start, it barely keeps running with full throttle and it backfires (out the intake) the whole time. I purchased this car in this condition so I cant give much information on the history of it. I know the distributor & wires were removed, but I'm pretty sure I have it all back together correctly. Not getting any codes from the ECU either.
  19. Any recommendations for a long-lasting Timing Belt? In my 2002 Forester EJ251, I replaced the original Subaru factory Timing Belt at 163,590km (101,671miles), as a maintenance precaution. That Subaru belt looked like almost new, with no cracks or other visible deterioration. The next belt was part of a MizumoAuto timing-belt kit (incl. pulleys, idlers, tensioner, water pump). After another 62,633km (38,927miles), I discovered that the belt was badly cracked. There are transverse cracks on the back-side of the belt, opposite to the ‘valleys’ in the toothed side. See the attached photo. That replacement belt only lasted 38% as long as the original Subaru belt, and I have removed it from service. I can buy a replacement timing belt on line for a variety of prices, and from a variety of manufacturers. The most expensive belts are the Subaru OEM (13028AA231), followed by Gates and Mitsuboshi. And there are many others available for a fraction of the price. Which belts are the best buy for the price (I have an interference-engine)? I know that the Subaru OEM belt is good (no visible deterioration at the recommended change-interval), but it is expensive. And the MizumoAuto belt was scarily inadequate, with cracking after a much shorter interval (I have asked MizumoAuto to tell me the manufacturer’s name, but no reply). I have seen lots of online reviews, mostly with comments about how the belt went on easily, or looked nice when new, etc. But I haven’t found any reviews that comment on the longevity of the belt, or otherwise. So I welcome comments/recommendations about what make of timing belt to buy, preferably with first-hand experience on how long the belt actually lasted.
  20. Doesn't make sense The timing on the right side is set to the marks all good the ,left side set to cam pulley mark engine runs hot and under load and pings set mark on left side cam pulley after mark engine pings when not hot under load and looses power , set to cam pulley before mark engine runs ok doesn't ping or get hot . Mark refers to the slot on the back timing belt cover . Any ides why cam pulley has pin so can't be wrongly positioned , timing is set by no1 plug on opposite side (piston 1 )
  21. Just finished timing belts, water pump, pulleys, new oil seals, brand new vacuum lines, all new bosch ignition, pcv valve, pcv hoses, karropak gaskets on throttle, everything's tightened down!and sealed up, cooling system bled, new thermostat, etc... I checked and got codes 11, 12, 13, 34 & 35. Only had the car about a week, but no engine light before timing belt. Curious about the possibility this is an error as the car runs awesome, idles a little high though (1000-1100 rpms)
  22. I have a 1985 ford f250 with a 300 bored .60 over and the timing marks on the harmonic balancer do not relate to TDC on the number 1 cylinder. The marks are aligned with TDC on number 5. How can this be?
  23. So I have redone the timing on my 88 subaru gl-10 like 10 time thinking I have done something wrong I followed miles fox tutorial to the T and when I try to start it it turns over for a few seconds then to almost a dead stop then turns over again I did not pull the distributor out and it seems to line up after the whole timing procedure I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong and mind you I just changed head gaskets and seals so any ideas?
  24. The saga continues.... my timing belt project is turning out to be a real disaster. I bought a timing belt & water pump kit that included crankshaft & camshaft seals, and figured it was a good idea to replace them while I was at it. I tried a couple of methods to get my camshaft bolts loosened, since I didn't have the special tool. After tongue & groove pliers, a strap wrench, and a cheap plumbing wrench failed me, I managed to lock up the left-side camshafts by folding my old timing belt over a couple of times and wedging it in between the sprockets, such that the teeth on both camshaft sprockets engaged the belt. Piece of cake. Right side didn't work so well. I tucked a small wedge in between the folds of the old timing belt that time, thinking it would make the job quicker, but it had the effect of shattering the exhaust sprocket before the bolt loosened. Stupid idea, in hindsight. I didn't realize how vulnerable the sprockets would be to this kind of stress. I'm pricing out a new sprocket, but obviously I need a better way of tightening/loosening the bolts. I'm loathe to spend $60 or more on the specialty tool, since I don't know if I'll use it again on this car. I'd rather spend the same $$$ for a general-purpose tool that will serve me down the road. (That said, I'll gladly buy the specialty tool for the sake of doing it right, if no other tool will do). I thought about a chain wrench, but nobody around me carries them. I need to make sure that (1) it is good quality, don't want to spend money on junk, and (2) it will fit between the intake and exhaust sprockets, with a leather belt or something in between for protection if necessary. Brand recommendations welcome. Or, is there another alternative tool or trick instead of a chain wrench? Also---maybe a silly question, but why was this bolt so tight? Is it common practice to use a strong threadlock compound for them? If not, I have to assume someone before me tightened the everliving crap out of it. The torque I applied trying to loosen it greatly exceeded 60 ft-lbs. Thanks as always for your kind advice. I know some of my issues are probably pretty cringeworthy newbie material. :-)
  25. I pulled the crankshaft sprocket off of my 1999 Legacy (2.5L). It was a bear of a job and required a lot of prying. At one point I got careless and had my prybar applying pressure directly to the back of one of the tabs on the rear side of the sprocket---it snapped off. Here's a photo: I assume these tabs are used by the proximity sensor to tell the computer the crankshaft's position. Therefore I assume I must replace the part. But before I order it, I wanted to verify with the experts here. Can I get away with not replacing it? Thanks!
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