bbenton8

The verdict is in- both front wheel bearings are the problem, my mechanic found the same thing I did, the same amount of play while moving the tire back and forth(about an inch back and forth). I also need the driver side drive axle and its boot replaced. I have them on order. Any pointers on the job I need to do? The bearings fortunately are bolt on, not press in. I have the Haynes guide which has done me well on other things I've had to do. Thanks

Well there seem to be a variety of opinions and I appreciate all the input! Tomorrow afternoon I'm getting a mechanics opinion of the symptoms. I shouldn't have taken so long to get a professional opinion but as the symptoms have stayed the same for weeks I got kinda complacent. Will let ya know what the verdict is.

The sound and vibration is hard to pinpoint. But to the point of possible wheel bearings, I just checked all 4 wheels. The rear wheels are solid, no play in them at all. BUT the front wheels both have play in them, pretty much the same amount of play in each wheel. I appreciate both of you for your advice. I guess the vibration from a bad wheel bearing could cause the entire car to vave vibration and noise. Looking forward to your further advice. The sound & vibration does get higher/lower based on the speed. noise and vibration? yes how long? been a number of months has it been getting worse? Not that I can tell

I am getting vibration while driving. My Haynes guide states that having vibration and noise that changes pitch consistent with speed is indicative of a bad rear drive-shaft. The Haynes guide seems to indicate that the center bearing on the drive-shaft can be replaced, but other sources dispute that.The car has only about 95k on it. Another Subaru Outback forum says to get a used drive-shaft rather than buying a new one (minimum I've seen for new is about $338). So looking for some advice if I can replace the center bearing or not, or if a used drive-shaft assembly would be OK. My understanding is this issue is rare. What range of Outback years does a 2008 drive shaft fit? Any other advice on this issue would be welcome. Thanks

I will be replacing the intermediate pipe & muffler. I know there is a gasket between the pipe & muffler, but is there one between the pipe & cat converter? (cat converter was replaced a few years ago & I don't remember) The existing rubber cushions look ok, but is it recommended to replace them anyway? Also the haynes book shows a pair of spring-bolts connecting the midpipe to the converter, replacing recommended? (car parts wholesale shows Walker Spring And Bolt Kit PART#:WK35129 MFR#:35129) and what size are the 2 bolts with locking nuts for the midpipe to the muffler? I've had the car about 3 years and at some point in the past the pipe & muffler were replaced with a one-piece unit- existing is not a separate pipe & muffler so- gasket pipe to cat; rubber cushions; spring-bolts; 2 bolts/nuts pipe to muffler... many thanks:)

please see the post I made before yours today. My current question is about the wheel speed sensor. Knuckle is now off.

I finally got the knuckle off last night & took it to my mechanic today to replace the bearing. Regarding the wheel speed sensor- is the "rod" that extends through the backing plate actually a part of the sensor or is it separate, with only a contact connection to the part that bolts to the outside of the backing plate? It was easy removing the bolt but it was a bear getting that part separated from the plate and I thought I snapped the rod off. However, both surfaces are perfectly smooth leading me to think I didn't snap anything. Can anyone help me out on this?

the axle nut actually loosened up just fine. I bought a 24" breaker bar & 32mm axle nut socket at Advance Auto. Now here's a couple questions- how to remove the parking brake cable from the backer plate? the "shroud" seems to somehow be bonded with the backer plate. And, suggestions for getting the brake line connection out of the cylinder? I tried a regular 10mm wrench, but just started to round the connector, so bought flare nut wrenches today & it's still not budging. I also tried the connection at the other end of the short line, but that's good & tight too. Can heat be used on brake line components? I don't think brake fluid is flammable but not 100% sure, & I don't want to damage anything I don't have to. I've got the shoes, adjuster etc all out, just need to get the cylinder & park brake line out. Then the real fun begins with the linkages bolts!

are the axle nuts all standard right-hand threads? Specifically the right rear. Thanks

Oh terrific... maybe paying my mechanic isn't sounding so bad after all... but I figure I'll give it a go & see how far I get. Still hoping someone can clue me in on where to get Yield penetrant

So I assume the lateral link bolt is the "long bolt" my mechanic said would be problematic. We shall see. Re the Yield product, where can it be purchased? I did a search and came up with the manufacturer, Chemsearch, but nothing about where to get it. I'm in upstate NY & have the usual nationwide auto stores around...

Thanks, yes my mechanic had to heat the left one last year, I do have a full oxy/acet torch setup. Will get a 32mm socket, probably a breaker bar too (my old torque wrench may not do it). will try repeated apps of pb blaster, I know that will take time. so I'll start this weekend & see how far I get. also could use advice on where to get the bearing. I used carpartswholesale.com before when I did my head gaskets earlier this year, they're ok, but other options would be appreciated.

A year ago I had the left rear bearing replaced, and the 5 or 6 bolts that had to be removed to get the knuckle off were so seized the mechanic had to cut some parts to get them off, which really drove up the cost. Now I need the right bearing replaced and this time I want to take it all apart & take the knuckle with the bearing to my mechanic to R/R the bearing, then put it back together. Any tips on getting the various bolts/arms off without having to destroy some of them? My initial thought is PB Blaster and a lot of patience working the bolts/nuts off, but I'd like to go into this with suggestions on the "easiest" way to do it. That's kind of a joke as I know it won't be "easy". Any tips on cleaning up the bolt threads etc? Also the Haynes guide calls for loosening the wheel (brake drum?) nut while wheel is on the ground, what size nut is that? Want to get the right socket if I don't already have it, before hand. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

PHEW! DONE! did the diff 1st, using my 1/2" ratchet worked great, with a bit of help from banging a rubber mallet on the handle to loosen both plugs. Fortunately I had a qt gear oil bottle with a pump that made it easy to fill the rear diff (it was way low on oil so glad I did it) WOW the transaxle dip stick is a PAIN to get to, did remove the air filter housing which really isn't too bad having done the head gaskets earlier in the year and almost everything was taken apart; thanks for the photo edrach, that helped a lot. But the drain plug came out fine (though the bolt seemed like maybe a 21mm, as my 22mm was slightly loose on it) and I did manage to get the dipstick out, and had to use a lawn equipment funnel (narrow long neck) and a regular funnel into that to refill without spilling oil everywhere. The handle was black, but turned yellow after I got all the grease off of it . Refilled and it's all good. Thanks to everyone for the help & tips! Happy Labor Day! Time to veg & watch TV

wow ok no wonder I can't see it. thanks for the photo, def looks like removing the air filter housing is a must, no big deal. No Pull a parts here in upstate (western/central) NY, closest is in Ohio from their web site; have Auto Zone & Advance Auto plus the other standard nation wide outlets & local. At least I don't feel like I'm losing my mind anymore trying to find that dipstick!