Mr.Atlantis

Thank you everyone for your help! I will begin diagnostics ASAP.

- 2008 Outback Legacy 2.5i MT (Base model) - 105k mi. Not sure what other details you were curious about. The sensor that I suspect is failing is a Denso - which I believe is the OEM brand. I'll have to wait until later to check the exact engine model, got my 8 mo. year old son with me right now and mom's asleep. Can't really make my way to the garage just yet. I'm willing to buy a good sensor, but which one would you suggest? I thought I got a good one the first time. Rock Auto does have a Bosch with an orange cable for about $140. I believe its the one that was on there before I changed it the first time. The Denso has a black cable.

I once did that to a perfectly good sensor, replaced with an inferior over-seas part and will never forgive myself.

I received the following 2 codes late last year: P0030 Heated oxygen sensor heater control circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1 & P0134 Oxygen sensor circuit no activity detected Bank 1 Sensor 1 After resetting the codes about 2 or 3 times, I replaced my Upstream O2 Sensor. No issues until just recently. Only this time I got the P0134 code alone. Either way, it's pointing me to the same O2 Sensor I just replaced. Before I purchase another, more expensive O2 Sensor - are there any other areas 'pre-upstream sensor' I should be looking in to? Sidenote 1 When the code popped up most recently, I removed the Sensor and cleaned with a wire wheel and replaced. Checked all contacts for resistance and continuity. Everything looked good and about 2 days later the CEL went out and didn't come back for about a month (where I'm at now). Sidenote 2 I burn a full quart of oil in between Oil changes (every 4,000 mi.). I mention this because I worry I may have the beginning signs of an internal head gasket leak (oil transfer between galleys and cylinders) which may jack up my combustion and fowl up O2 sensors. Just a thought though, I can't be sure of this as there seems to be no smoke from the rear at start up. Regards,

I re-adjusted the pin so to be sure that when the pedal is relaxed, the MC is operating as it should. I'll be re-bleeding tonight when I get home to rule out any previous adjustment errors. I appreciate all the help you've given me thus far guys. Hopefully I can return the favor one day.

Ok, no laughing at my diagram. There are some questions embedded in the image which should be self explanatory. FairTax, When you mentioned to adjust the pin until it just slightly pulls the pedal forward, which way did you mean? (See cut-away view of 'U-bracket'). - What should the travel distance of the slave cylinder be? How far should the fork be pushed basically. I want to know so i don't over adjust it.

Was actually in my garage when you sent this, so I just scoped out the fork again, and no, it's not bending. The clutch fork assembly is operating as it should. However, I did notice something. I am able to depress the slave cylinder all the way with my hand (and I'm not very strong) when all bleeders are closed. I mean, I can actually get my finger between the nipple and fork and push back. Shouldn't there be more pressure in the lines preventing me from doing this? I should also mention that no matter how I adjust my clutch, even when it was working, the nipple that pushes on the fork would jiggle when not in use. I could actually hear it if I was at a stop if it was quiet enough. I would sometimes slightly press the clutch to make it stop, especially at drive-thru windows where it was most noticeable. This was the reason why I just replaced the master cylinder. I just did the slave cylinder about 3 months ago. I'm running out of options. ...I'm sure at this point, you guys must think I'm crazy.

I tried the bleeding trick you mentioned. No luck. No air came out either, it was just pure fluid. I repeated the process about 10 or 15 times just to be sure. Couldn't I just fabricate a pin identical to the one between the slave cylinder piston and the clutch fork, but about a 1/4" longer? It would solve my problem, though if it ever decides to pressurize anymore I suppose that would present a problem huh? There doesn't seem to be any more air in the system and I can't spot any leaks. I feel as though my only options are to adjust the pin behind the pedal to it's max or make a longer pin to push fork. Sound crazy? Has this ever been done?

Well, I'm home now. I'll go give this a shot. The slave does have it's own bleeder. so this shouldn't be too hard. I'll repost my results. Thanks again!

Just thought, did you mean crack loose the Master Cylinder while pushing on slave in hand? Just going through the scenario in my head and it seemed logical since air is going to want to travel upwards. Or did you really mean Slave Cylinder? I'll try the way you told me the first time, I just want to be sure there wasn't a typo.

I pulled the boot back, and with a small flashlight and mirror was able to inspect the fork while I had someone inside push the pedal. Clutch release fork is fine and seems to be operating properly. I will perform the Bench Bleed type test you mentioned.

I get that exact same noise Stevo. I also deal with the very low disengage/engage issue. Im hoping that the advice FairTax gave us on my other post fixes my problem. Basically it sounds like a bench bleed. I should mention that nothing I've replaced thus far has actually fixed my problem yet. I replaced the Slave Cylinder, Master Cylinder, Clutch (2x in 3 months), Pilot Bearing and Throw out bearing. I even sprung for that $150 TSK, super strength Throw Out Bearing and Sleeve kit the 2nd time around. None of these things fixed the low clutch problem. At this point, I'm ready to accept the fact that my car will never be the same again after replacing the clutch

So this method eliminates the whole 'buddy in the car, pushing pedal technique' huh? That's convenient. I'll give this a shot tonight when I get home. Thanks again!

Posted twice. My mistake... I'll be checking the Clutch fork.

Wow, I stand corrected. I'll peak through the rubber boot.