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About jasonkaye

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    1991 Subaru Loyale 1.8L 5-speed 4WD station wagon

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  1. SubaruGuy, Did you end up figuring out the wiring to the ignition coil with the blue, yellow, and two black/white striped wires? I'm wiring mine and need a reference!
  2. I had already pulled the oil pump to replace it with one from a parts car. Both oil pumps look to be in good shape, and it'll get new seals of course. I pulled the pistons and cleaned them up. For new piston rings, I can get a set from Subaru for $180 or RockAuto (brand "Sealed Power") for $25. I'm a bit surprised by both prices - do you all have a suggestion on which set to buy?
  3. Reading more through the forums, there seems to be a strong preference for retiring the EA82. This leads me to think I'll just put the refurbished heads on, get this vehicle running in the short term, and in the medium- to long-term look into the EJ22 swap. What do you think?
  4. As I'm waiting for the heads to come back from the machine shop, I've been waffling over how deep to go. I removed the heads with the engine still in the vehicle. In order to check the piston rings, I need to pull the engine. And if I'm pulling the engine and checking/replacing the rings, I might as well split the block and check/replace the main bearings. And while the engine's out, well let's replace the clutch, too. You get my drift - how far down the rabbit hole do I go? Considering this is my daily driver, and I'm stressed out finding rides to and from work, part of me is leaning toward the quicker option: put the refurbished heads on and get the car running. Of course, another part of me is saying, "Hey you're this deep already, might as well go for a complete rebuild." Any wise advice from the forum? Jason
  5. I just finished tearing down the engine enough to remove the cylinder heads. Check out the photo below of the exhaust valve for cylinder #3 (to the right in the photo.) The valve has got that chunk missing, and both valves are caked with carbonized gunk. Well, that explains the systems: no compression on cylinder #3, burning oil out the exhaust, lack of power. The #3 piston doesn't appear to have damage to it's surface. I have another set of cylinder heads that are being serviced by a shop. Before I put those on though, I'd like to get to the bottom of why the valve broke in the first place. Any thoughts? Jason
  6. Alrighty folks... I have an old set of EA82 heads that I brought to a machine shop to get cleaned up and looked at. I'm awaiting their response. but I'm preparing to do a head swap in the coming week. Since you all have been so helpful to me with this and other issues over the years, I'm going to give back and attempt to do a full write-up with photos of my teardown and rebuild. It might be of use to someone on here one day. I'll start a new thread for that, and I'll add the link here. Jason
  7. Thanks all. Well, I ended up taking the car to a shop that says it's leaky valves. I'm waiting for a cost estimate, though I'm leaning heavily toward doing the job myself. I have a set of heads from my previous Loyale that I'll send to a machine shop to do a valve job. Since I'll be diving so deep into the engine anyway, is it worth it to remove the pistons and check the rings? Seems like I should check while I'm in there...
  8. Gloyale, What do I measure to determine that the valves are closing properly?
  9. Just performed a vacuum test, following Dee2's suggestion. The needle on the vacuum gauge fluctuated rapidly between 15 and 18 in-Hg. As I revved the engine, the vacuum increased but maintained a rapid fluctuation over a range of 4 in-Hg. From what I've read, these results indicate worn valve guides. So, do we consider this a confirmed diagnosis, or are there more tests to do?
  10. I just took off the valve cover on what I think is the problematic side of the engine (cylinders #3 and #1, the passenger's side.) Attached are some photos. I don't quite know what to look for, but my untrained eye doesn't see anything obviously wrong. Rear of the engine (cylinder #3) is to the left in the photo; front of the engine (cylinder #1) is to the right in the photo. Primary view of one valve spring, rocker arm, and cam lobe for cylinder #3, below... Primary view of the other valve spring, rocker arm, and cam lobe for Cylinder #3, below... Do you see anything of note in the photos? I will follow Dee2's suggestion to hook up a vacuum gauge this afternoon.
  11. Hi all, My 1991 4WD Loyale stationwagon has been burning some oil for years, which doesn't appear to be a problem so long as I keep the oil level topped off. Recently, things have gotten worse. Now, the car is burning a lot of oil (clouds of smoke out of the exhaust when the engine is first started.) After the engine warms up, the engine appears to be burning less oil, but still burning oil. Yesterday I did a compression test. Cylinders #1, #2, and #4 show about 140psi in a dry test and 160psi in a wet test. Cylinder #3, however, showed zero compression in both dry and wet tests. As far as I understand, this means either worn piston rings or an open valve. Two questions: 1. Do you have suggestions on next diagnostic steps? 2. As this is my daily driver, is it safe to continue to drive this vehicle in its current condition? Or, should I park the thing until it's fixed? Thanks! Jason
  12. UPDATE: One mystery solved; another mystery born. One mystery solved: The first mystery of the "32-spline axles" on the 1990 EA82 has been solved by me being an idiot - the axles are not 32-spline. The DOJ axle cups are all indeed for 23-spline axles; that is, 23 splines where the DOJ connects to the transmission stub shaft. However, the inner race of the DOJ's on the axles I pulled from the 1990 EA82 do have 32 splines. This spline connects both parts of the DOJ inside the axle cup. This appears to be a variation in the manufacturing of the DOJ innards; this variation does not affect how the DOJ connects to the transmission. Another mystery born: The two pictures below pose a new mystery. You'll see that of the four front axles I pulled from similar vehicles, three of them require different sized boots. The pictures below detail this variation on the DOJ's. A similar issue exists at the other end of the axles with the CVJ's. I need help identifying the axles so that I can purchase the right sized boots. Note that the infamous "Wheels and Axles" identification chart - posted above by Dee2 - unfortunately does not have the information I am looking for.
  13. Hey all, I'm in the process of cleaning, re-greasing and re-booting the two front driveaxles on my 1991 Loyale 4WD EA82 manual transmission. I pulled those axles today - one axle might be OEM, and the other axle is marked with a "remanufactured" sticker. I also pulled two front driveaxles from my parts car - a 1990 Loyale 4WD EA82 manual transmission. As I disassembled the "inner CV joints" of all the axles (also called "DOJ's" by the How To Keep Your Subaru Alive manual) I noticed something very strange - the inner race of the DOJ's on the axles I pulled from the 1990 EA82 have 32 splines! The DOJ cups are a bit bigger, too. As far as I understand, the axles for both of these vehicles should be 23-spline. Two questions: 1. Any ideas as to why/how those DOJ's are 32 splines? The original and only prior owner of that vehicle was an elderly person who didn't drive it much, so I doubt they did any sort of transmission conversion. 2. How would I modify my current EA82 (with 23-spline axles) to fit the 32-splines axles? (I'm asking more out of curiosity; I imagine this would be impractical to the point of silliness. Eager to solve the mystery! Jason
  14. These forums have illuminated for me the importance of using OEM CV boots. Though, I am having difficulty finding these boots (and necessary clips and grease) for purchase. I'm looking for specific recommendations, and other tips you all think would assist in this search. For example, some listings on eBay are for just boots without the necessary clips and grease. Thanks!
  15. Thanks Jono. I removed the cross member and that improved access, but only marginally. I attempted to get a wrench in there (socket and open-end) but neither can fit in that tight space. Without deeper dis-assembly, or a novel idea, it seems I won't be able to test or replace the switch. At least this faulty switch is merely an inconvenience.