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6 Star

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Everything posted by 6 Star

  1. Welcome to the Forum Although not impossible, it does make the job a lot harder to do in-car. Lots of bending over the fenders, or reaching up from under the car. Murphy's Law states that if one head gasket goes, the other side is not far behind... you may be doing the other side in the near future!
  2. Hey @el_freddocan it be done? I'm not sure of the bolt pattern
  3. Depending on what year the EA71 is from, the bell housing could be different. Earlier EA71s had a top mounted starter position. Later EA71s had a side mounted starter. The EA81s (what your 2nd gen brat would have) would use a side mounted starter
  4. Update: I've taken the Wagon up to the Mountains, and to Work. So far the new set up with the fuel pump wired to a manual switch is working well.
  5. Great minds think alike. I had an inline fuse holder, and it happened to have a 10 Amp fuse inside already. I set everything up and it's working like a charm, idling in the driveway. Will go on some test runs and bring some extra fuses and tools along just in case.
  6. @el_freddo What size fuse would be acceptable to run the fuel pump directly with a switch? Going to go that route until I can figure out the replacement of the oem electricals. Would it be a 15 Amp? Most of the fuses in the fuse box are that size...
  7. No mice activity that I could tell @el_freddo Wish I had more to report however life has been crazy for me at the moment, only have had time to do the minor upkeep on my hatchie to keep her on the road lately. She's the daily right now
  8. Thanks for the reply Bennie, I will have to do some more tests; but the fuel pump does still work when direct power is applied to it. (I take a 12v battery and use jumper wires directly to the connector at the pump.) If I prime the pump long enough it will send enough fuel up to the carb to run the engine for 30 seconds to a minute or so. During that time I'll listen to the Fuel Pump (which I hooked back up to the harness) however the pump is silent and not pumping, and the engine will shut down once out of fuel. I could try an ohms (resistance) test on the coil, however it seems to produce enough spark to run the engine... In the past I traded out my distributor for one from a parts vehicle, because the car would randomly die once warmed up. It was probably also related to the ignition module in the distributor. The "new" distributor cured that problem for the years since then, however now this one must be acting up now too. More testing to come!
  9. Vehicle: 1986 Subaru GL Wagon, Dual Range 5 Speed, Carbureted, Weber 32/36 Converted Issue: No longer getting Fuel Pump Signal to the Pump. It would be intermittent, but now seems to be consistent with getting no Signal. I've heard from @Gloyale that the 6 pin Fuel Pump Controller (Relay) only sends power to the pump when there is a Tachometer Pulse on the yellow wire... Is that Signal originated from the Distributor? Also I've heard from @GeneralDisorderin regards to the Controller, that: "The wire going to the pump is usually a blue with red stripe. The control unit will also have a yellow tach signal, black ground wire, and an ignition hot supply (white I think)." Background: The problem began intermittently... if I had an issue with the pump, I could either add Fuel directly to the carburetor to prime the system. Or, I could apply power directly to the Fuel Pump to also Prime the system. Occasionally I would have to do both in order to get the vehicle to run. Once the pump was working, it would not cut-out mid-trip. Not until the vehicle was turned off and then tried to be re-started later; would an issue happen, where I would have to do one off the pre-mentioned priming methods. Now the pre-mentioned priming methods no longer work... What kind of tests can I do to see what needs replacing? I'd like to have the wiring stay this way it was from the factory... however if not I could wire the fuel pump to a switch, racecar style... I'm not sure though; does the tach Signal increase/decrease pump speed based on engine speed? Thanks for reading, hope to keep my Wagon on the Road!
  10. Could also check the door jam Vin tag. Sometimes that info will be there
  11. Correct, you will need the EA81 Hitachi Intake Manifold to run the aftermarket Weber 32/36 Carburetor. There are many people out there that have them available... have you tried any of the Facebook forums? There is a lot more traffic there... I could list some of them here if you would like to try those avenues. Is your Subaru a 4WD? FWD? Manual or Auto Transmission? It is rare to find these cars in decent shape in your part of the country. Would definitely be worth taking the time to fix her up if not for you to enjoy but to sell later on to another enthusiast
  12. @torpedo51 I spoke with Ivan over on one of the Facebook Subaru forums. He says he used the 2.0 pistons in one of his EA71 engines, the sister engine of the EA81. If it works in that application it should work in yours. It may not be the news you want to hear; but you will have to do more homework, sourcing, and more machine work if you go that route. Or if this is a side project, put it on the back burner until you can find the correct size pistons and rings for EA81... You already put the short block together... you determined with feeler gages that the pistons are now too small? Or the shop told you that they went .020 over? Also more news you may not want to hear; you may want to try a different machine shop next time... somewhere along the line there was miscommunication on someone's part, either you or them or both were unsure what was going on. And you said that they lost parts of yours, sounds like somebody was unorganized... I wish you the best in this project and hope you don't have too much $$ sunk into this or need this vehicle as primary transport
  13. Keep an eye on Flea-Bay and the other parts cites. You may get lucky and see come up for sale. I've heard of people boring up these EA81 engines to accept the 2.0 pistons from the EJ20 engines. Those piston and ring sets would be easier to find... hopefully someone more we'll versed will chime in on that... @ivans imports @el_freddo @GeneralDisorder
  14. The cover there is actually the rear plate or bell housing... Check out this video, I also linked it in your other thread. You'll see it in the sideshow of the engine going together:
  15. Check out this video. It has a pretty good step by step sideshow of the EA81 Engine going together. Shows the engine mounts and the ASV's I mentioned, etc...
  16. @torpedo51 Those mounts on the back of the heads would hold the brackets for the ASV's. The ASV system would take some of the exhaust directly from the exhaust-manifolds right as it exited the LH and RH head, send it through the ASV apparatuses, (attached at those bracket locations), and then be plumbed back into the carburetor. The ASV's only purpose was to try and reduce emissions. They are not necessary in States that no longer test for emissions, like us here in WA. I deleted my ASV's on my '85 Brat with its EA81 Engine. I simply had to weld close the then open openings to the ASV's on the exhaust manifold, and plug the receptacles with rubber plugs at the stock Hitachi Carburetor. I also hear you can use a quarter to seal the opening on the exhaust when the ASV pipes are removed. If the bosses faced forwards they would hold the tensioners for the optional air conditioning and power steering units. You mention this engine being in a VW? Either way the motor mounts that are beneath the block, between the oil pan and the heads, are built to withstand the engine's movement and torque, not those ASV / accesory mounts. You may have custom motor mounts that connect to the bottom of the block? Edit: Also, the heads are not identical. The RH head will have the port on the top/rear for the EGR connection to the intake manifold. Best of luck
  17. Awesome! I subscribed to your channel. The EA82 in the BumbleBeast still sounds very healthy.
  18. Good thing the headlight covers were in place. Where do you source those? Are they wrap-around to also cover the corner lights? Would like to have some for my wagon as well, although the USDM corner lights do not have the protruding reflector... Like the look of that last example wagon picture. Aggressive tires and appears to be lifted some. Hard to tell where that is but it looks to be a LHD, Face-lifted example.
  19. @SirFireWolfeIf the vehicle had been in an accident when it was fairly new it is possible that a body shop took the time to repair it as close to stock as they could with what they had available. I bought a low mileage FWD Loyale Sedan that back QP and Front End body work done... pretty impressive what they did, not even mad as I knew it ahead of time before buying it just by the slight difference in panel colors. I know that today there is no way the same amount of effort would be put into the car so it must have happened when the car was fairly new. Anyway enough thats enough of that Subie story... I hope to see your Hatch when you are able to be near it and investigate it for clues
  20. @SirFireWolfePictures would be great if you could post them... maybe someone used what was available to them?
  21. What @el_freddosaid... The search here used to work but for whatever reason now it sucks. Doesn't really pull up any relevant threads just recent ones Best of luck
  22. This. My GL Wagon EA82 would sound like a rattling tin can under load with "regular" fuel. With Premium Fuel the pinging pre-detonation went away. If it still persists with Premium Fuel then have a friend Rev the engine with your head under the car to determine where the exhaust leak or rattle is coming from.
  23. Nothing like someone else taking interest in what is yours to light the fire again. Should be as simple as massaging the brake calipers, bleeding, and going through the fuel. Now get-to-it!
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