6 Star

My '86 Wagon, DualRange, also needs to be "lined up" to be put into certain gears at times. It has 242,000 miles and some change. I've just taken to "lining up" for certain gears in most all classic cars. Reverse-prefers-to-be-lined-up-with-second-first; is usually the combo of choice. On this generation of Subaru, they don't like to be put into First while moving, unless going very slow.

Wow. Have laid eyes on 14's before, but never their original packaging. If it would be at all possible, would be cool if you could post photos of that. Like collector toys or other items of vintage, they are worth more inside the box still sealed.

In your first photo there is a Brush Guard on the front... removed for later?

The history of your wagon being in a dry climate shows there, great shape in that windshield seal area metal. Given that your wagon has factory a/c and p/s, the Sunroof must be factory as well? Usually Sunroof models rot out, because of the Sunroof.

Saw your post and thought I would write the symptoms of our SPFI loyale 3AT. However it happens at low RPM when the car is not warmed up yet. We had the Alternator rebuilt; Shortly after that, the car will bog down now and occasionally die in low rpm. (Backing out the driveway) Different, but seems like an electronic glitch perhaps like yours... have tried fuel additive etc... not fuel related?

Make sure you get the correct size clutch. '85 EA81 should have the larger diameter clutch disk and corresponding flywheel. Have always had good experience with an Exedy stock Stage clutch kit. Comes through my local speed shop; includes the clutch disk, plate, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing. Think it even comes with the alignment tool.

Two-tone paint jobs can look great when done right. All too often I see the "boy racer" (ricer) who have modified their Audi or Infiniti with the flat black hood, roof, and or trunk... it just looks bad. Same thing where people paint the bumper between the radiator grill and the under-bumper-grill on a modern Subaru. You don't have an Audi R8.... Just don't go to the dark side listed above... Plan out your paint, maybe draw it out or render it. Personally I really like the Targa style decals that came stock on the Brats.

This thread was from 2009... However half of the people who commented are still active on USMB.

Beauty. Nice work, always loved the 2nd gen wagons. Fond memories of our '82 wagon growing up... it had the cyclops light like yours from the factory. Many trips cycling, to the beach, camping etc...

Good to see you still have the hatch on the re-drilled Dodge Wheels. (Or chevy?) Hopefully nothing happened with the cam, if the timing gear was bent... knock on wood.

That would explain a lot... Thanks for the tip Bennie. Will have to dig through the parts bin... Yup, she's no beauty queen, but she loves to do work and outdoor activities. Washing the '82 Brat is something I have NOT done to it recently, or EVER for that matter. Found her in the woods down by Tacoma, she had been sitting a good 8 years or more. All that was needed was a carburetor, as it was missing. After getting her home, installed a Weber 32/36, and flushed the fuel tank, she started right up. Couldn't bring myself to remove the patina... And the 3rd eye still works... She came with a 3" Lift Kit installed. The Trans Spacers are only 2", so the trans sits up slightly higher. No markings on any of the lift components... but the huge sticker on the back window is for Tough Country... possibly a custom order through them at the time of the build, whenever that was... 14" Pug Steels with Cooper Discoverer STT's And, she has the "Super Coil" that has the bonus techno box on top that somehow reads the position of the distributor and (recurves?) for the situation at hand. She just keeps on going... have lost track of all the things hauled and jobs done over the 5 years I've owned her. Regreasing CV's... something I should probably do to a few of the Subes...

Don't mean to contradict you Jes, but the wheel you are pointing at I believe to be a 13", as seen on page 3 of the Awesome Old Gen picture thread, under "1982 & 1982 Brat". Also, Jackman wheels were only made in 13 and 14 inch in 4x140. Have seen custom 15" wheels made for 4x140 that LOOK like Jackmans, but were not the same brand.

Been hard to start the '82 Brat recently. Usually takes a couple pumps of the pedal before it will cough to life. Strange, 9 times out of 10... when turning the engine over for several seconds with the ignition, it will fire AFTER releasing the ignition to the Run position. Only sometimes will it fire before letting go of the "start" position.. Cleaned the plugs, as they appeared to be fouled. Managed to start the Brat with only 3 spark plug wires connected. (D'oh) forgot to reconnect one. However cleaning the plugs did not solve the hard starting issue. Anyway, have been putting her to work hauling fire wood. The engineers made the size of the bed just right for the performance of the EA81... Loaded to the rails, conservatively, with wet firewood; the clutch is able to handle the load without strain or spinning, and the little EA81 torques right along. P.S. Added photos to my previous post.

Didn't even notice OP was from 2015...

Looks pretty cool. A Baja, if Subaru had released it a generation earlier.

This is true afaik, however Jackman had made 14" 8 Spoke wheels when the Brat was first being developed. Promotional? Not sure the reasoning behind it... sometimes the display or prototype of new models have larger wheels that what they are sold with... However finding 14" Jackmans would be like finding hen's teeth...

Lincoln... as in Welded? Same boat here, no sources for this old stuff. Unless you find something in a junk yard that is in better shape, ya gotta go custom with the welder.

Put the little 2nd gen hatch to work the past couple days. Fitted the heavy duty rack to the roof, and hauled two sets of roll-up doors for a project my dad and us are working on. Sure, it could all fit in the van... but the little subie gets more than twice the mileage. P.S. Removed the rack once the moving was over... Shes a real whistler and howler at the right speeds.

Peugeot 107 looks to be made around 2005 time period, and has a lug pattern of 4x100, which will not fit.

Sweet wheels, JDM? Do they have name/brand or are Subaru? And the caps look nice on there.

Did you have to splice into the factory harness with the modulator, or was it plug and play?

Ah yes, the outer lights on the quads stay ON when the Highs are on. That would be great to just plug and play... Running a separate loom would work... Thought-Train is building steam... Off topic, but on the theme of Parkers and Indicators being interchangeable, the EA82s are able to do this... One could take the side Parker's harness and run it down to the Turns in the Bumper. And the Turn's harness up to the Parkers. On the US face-lifted EA82s, for some reason, the designers decided to hide the front turn signals way inside some kind of cave. Pre-facelift EA82s had the signals flush, just like JDM and elsewhere. These "cave" turn signals are not visible unless seen from some distance in front of the car. Switching the parkers and indicators on the face-lifted EA82s makes it so more people can see the indicator, even from the side. And then the signals in the bumper can act as fogs or parking lights. Funny story; When my brother went to take his driver's test, he used a Loyale. (Facelifted EA82) When the instructor was standing in front of the car, doing their checks, he said, "Turn signal Left, Right... OK thats a fail... come back when you have turn signals..." Had to tell the guy to do the Limbo so he could see they indeed worked...

So, have never had to deal with Copper Crush Washers on Turbos... knock on wood... However when annealing crush washers for hydraulic systems and fuel systems for these cars and others; I've never sanded down the crush washers after annealing... Just hit them with the map gas torch on a sacrificial piece of wood until cherry red... momentarily watch the washer bathe in the dancing flames of the wood... and then let the thing cool down on its own... Never Quenched... Now, Turbos may be different, but I've not had a problem with fuel or hydraulic leaks with my no-sand no-quench method.

Further down on this page https://www.subaruparts.com/v-1992-subaru-loyale--base--1-8l-h4-gas/rear-suspension--rear-suspension Shows another diagram for rear suspension. Part #3, Trailing Arm Bushing is still available. Part #7, Crossmember Assembly Bushing is discontinued. The strip of rubber I mentioned earlier only acts to fill the gap left by deteriorated or squished bushings on the Mustache bar. Usually one on top and/or bottom to act like a sandwich. But you are not dealing with the mustache bar...

You're saying it won't turn over at all now? If that is the case check the battery power and connections at the battery and ground connections. Sometimes bad Ground and/or bad Battery Connections are the demon... Put the correct size socket on the crank pulley bolt and spin the engine over with a big ratchet or cheater bar to see that nothing has locked up or started to stick in the rotating assembly of the engine. I know its metric, but 7/8 fits well. Once the car is turning over and or starting again: Check that you are getting spark at all 4 ends of the spark plug wires, and that they are in the right order as el_freddo says. If that all checks out; maybe you still have a problem with dirty fuel? How old is the gas in the tank? Sometimes a dose of Stabil, Lucas Fuel Injector Cleaner, Heat, and/or all of the above work. Also, on 3rd gens (EA82s) there are TWO fuel filters... you only mention replacing one.