6 Star

Update I tested that ground for the Tail Light harness, under the right rear bed kick panel. I disconnected it and cycled through the brakes and signals as before. Having the ground disconnected changed nothing! So I put a new connector on the end of the ground and put her back on... Still no change. Then I noticed a relay dangling down from above the fuse box in the cab. There are two identical looking round, two prong relays in these Brats, according to the Haynes '80-'88 Workshop Manual, Fig. 10.40 1982/1983 North American models. The one on the left is the Hazard Unit, BLK/WHT & GRN/YLW with Pink Connector The one on the right is the Turn Signal Unit, GRN/WHT & BLU/WHT with White Connector The one hanging down I noticed is the right, Turn Signal relay. I unplugged this turn signal relay, and then cycled through the brakes and lights again. Having the Turn Signal relay disconnected changed nothing! Haha! I then pilfered another Signal relay from another Brat I have, and plugged that in. As soon as the connection is made, the relays start clicking, as if I had the turn signals on, which I did not, the ignition was also in the full off position. Not only that, but I hear the fuel pump cycling in unison with the turn relays! Neither the turn arrows on the dash or signals are blinking with this rhythm, they just stay off. At this point, I had to start the Brat so that I wouldn't flood the carb and drain the battery. With this new relay and paranormal activity happening, I tested the signals and brakes again. I turned on the Hazards, and they flashed as normal except that the "Stop Lamp" light flashed with them. Turned on the Left and Right signals one at a time, they both stayed on solid instead of flashing, and the left signal still had the "Stop Lamp" buddy along with him solid. I then tried the brakes and signals, the right signal would just stay solid as before with the brakes lit up as well. The left signal with the brakes would light up the reverse and brake light solid, and not the rear signal. The hazards with the brakes would cycle the brake and reverse light on the rear left side and the signals on all other corners. Another thing I realized that I never noticed on the initial tests: When the reverse light is being flashed in alternation with the left brake light as a turn signal; both reverse lights flash! I only ever noticed the left side alternating, and not the right side reverse light flashing along with it. Haha So it seems I must dig... a little deeper.

Thanks for the reply Tom, I did see a ground connected last time I had that right taillight off. However I didn't check for corrosion, but the ground itself was not loose when I wiggled it. I will have to check that out again and make sure the ground is solid.

I did some searching and couldn't find much. This problem really has me scratching my head. 1982 GL Brat 200K plus on the body When the Left turn signal is on, it blinks normally as it should, however the "Stop Lamp" light will blink on the dash in time with the signal light. When the Left turn signal is on, and the Brake is applied: The LR taillight alternates between turning on/off the Lamp and the Reverse light individually, and the time of the signal light on the dash is about half the speed. It completely forgets to flash the indicator light instead. Having both Brake applied and turn signal on, the "Stop Lamp" light on the dash shuts off. The right side is unaffected and has no problems with the signal under braking or not. I have checked fuses, checked bulbs, and even swapped out the entire LR taillight assembly from another Brat; same result with the slow alternation of Brake light and Reverse light. And just FYI the reverse lights work normally when in reverse. Anybody out there have a similar problem? I'm thinking I have a bad ground or a short somewhere...

Just recently I ordered the WK730 Kit for an EA81 through Ebay. Turns out it was not a Redline kit, as I originally thought, but was from webercarbsdirect.com. When I got the box home in the mail, my first impression was of the cheesy paper-graphic; taped onto the box with Weber-colored yellow, orange and red tape. As I'm opening the box, I'm thinking to myself, "Was it cheaper for a reason?" I take out the Airfilter/Tin and the tin doesn't look right, plus it has what looks to be a homemade sticker with the Weber W and says *Made In Taiwan*. Clouds of doubt moving in, I unwrap the carb itself and it looks very shiny, like a different metal from the Redline 32/36 I ordered for my EA82 a while back. Nowhere on the carb is there a stamp with the name Weber, in fact, there are no marks of information of any kind on the carb. On the top of the carb where the W with Weber is usually spelled out, there is just a red W sticker. At this point I know something is amiss. It looks just like a Weber 32/36, but there's no way it is legit. Weber stamps their name all over their carbs. I figure since I have it here in my hands, I might as well check it out and see if it is even worth spending the time to put it in the car. It looks like it would do the job, after all. I go to turn the throttle lever to see if the linkages etc all move as they should... The Primary begins to open, wider, wider, just when the secondary is supposed to engage, the throttle lever will turn no more. The secondary is stuck! The only way to further turn the throttle and engage the secondary, eventually achieving WOT, was to poke at the butterfly; jiggling it enough to unhitch itself. Obviously this can't be done in the car while driving, unless you master some kind of fancy flick with your gas pedal or something. Basically, I had a replica, Interco carb that was only a single barrel. That carb got put back in the box and shipped back to the seller within the hour. Then I ordered the same EA81 kit, this time through the seller I bought my EA82 kit from; allautomotive. Here is some stuff I dug up when I researched a bit: datsunaholic says; "Legally, that is a Weber. Due to some very weird licensing agreements Weber of Italy whored out their brand and logo to a US company that imports Chinese clones, slaps a sticker on them, and calls them Webers. And it's all legal. But they aren't the European-made Webers. Weber itself stopped making carbs in 1992, when production was moved to Spain. The production was farmed out to a 3rd party, but using the Weber-owned tooling. But in 2004, that company went on strike, and all carb production stopped for a full year. The production resumed with a different company in the same factory in late 2005, but the damage was done- for a full year no one, including Redline, could get true European carbs. The other distributors went to Weber North America, who simply farmed out the production using their brand license to whatever company could make them quickly. They were already using the Solex tooling (Solex now being owned by the same parent company as Weber) for the 34DGEC which was close (but not identical to) a 32/36, so they just reverse engineered the 32/36 and 38 and started making them in China. Since the Chinese are very, very good at making knockoffs (with some severe quality control issues in some cases) once the tooling was there, the EMPI clones started showing up too, though they're at least branded as EMPI and not Webers. It may work fine. I have one of the original Interco carbs and haven't had any trouble with it. It's probably one of the South American ones, though, being I've had it since around 2004. " I believe the Solex they are talking about is the even cheaper version than the Interco carbs we recieved. It is identifiable by its oval shaped top, triangular electric choke cover, and straight-angled fuel inlets and outlets. Figured I would commiserate with you and share what I've learned.

Today I went to a junkyard that had a 3 door coupe being parted out. Too bad the moldings on both sides were already removed by the time I arrived. I did score the grill, rear bench, and the driver's seatbelt though. When I looked inside the cab, whoever was there first took out all the plastics around the headliner. It looked like there was access to the back side of these moldings, some slits in the metal where the plastic tabs would come though. But, since the moldings were already gone, I didn't inspect very hard, plus it was only at a glance while removing my interior pieces. Perhaps I should just glue the broken piece back on. When held up in place by hand it looks practically seamless.

The plastic C-Pillar window molding on my ea82 coupe is broken. (Number 37/38 pictured) I have to remove the A-Pillar/Gutter molding to get to it. (35/36) How should I go about removing these? Without snapping them, of course. Thanks for your time.

It turned out that the simplest possible solution was the answer, both horns themselves had gone bad. But I got to test out my steering wheel puller, because I'm a glutton for not starting with the simple solutions. I discovered that the bolts that came with the puller kit would not fit the threads in the steering wheel. However, trusty Subaru, the intake manifold bolts for the EA82 were a perfect fit. In this pic the wheel had just popped free from the spline. So after finding that all was right in the wheel, I switched horns with some from the parts stash. I have horns again! Thank you all again for replying!

They're still the o.g horns as far as I know. That is something I haven't looked at yet. I do happen to have a steering wheel puller. "Horn broke, watch for finger." Alas the finger sometimes does the opposite of making people move. I was probing around to most of the metal in the wheel, I cannot remember if I touched the very center. The button on the pad does make contact, I was playing with it and making a *ting*ting* metal on metal noise. I do have a multimeter, I will have to dig around with it and see what kind of power I get to the horns themselves. I will also check the hub to column contact if the meter turns up nothing. Thank you for all of the replies!

The horn in my red 1986 Subaru GL wagon has never worked, ever since I purchased it years ago. I have put up with it for a while, but the need to... communicate... with other drivers is no longer able to be ignored. I have checked fuses: They are in good order. I have not dug into the wiring too much: However everything appears to be plugged in as it should. I took apart the steering wheel's horn button/pad: I did not see anything out of the ordinary, and it appears the horn pad makes contact as it should. Taking the horn wire that comes out of the hub and grounding it to metal does nothing. In other cars I have tried this on, it would make the horn sound. The only thing I sourced up from searching was this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/18736-two-problems-with-subaru-leone-1800-gl/ thealleyboy and MilesFox's posts in that thread were most helpful to my case, but only a tad. Has anyone else dealt with this issue before? Here is a pic of my wheel for reference: Thank you in advance for any advice.

Don't know if you have seen this already. http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/bar/4824951920.html Kind of far from you, but maybe you could pick the seller's brain about it or get some ideas from its design.

It is a shame that Brat met its end, but parts of it will rise from the ashes like a phoenix in other cars! I was debating with myself about buying it when it went up for sale, but it was just too far away.

How does the Weber like the fuel return? I've heard that it can cause fuel starvation. But if this thing is EJ bound, it doesn't matter in the long run I guess haha.

Thanks a bunch! This will help my search for a window greatly! Merry Christmas!

Tombba, you wouldn't happen to have the part number for the window in that FSM, would you?

Yes, the Sedan's rear windows have more of a rake forward on their hind edges. This is to compensate for the angle of the rear windshield and the glass between the doors and rear windshield. If you were to put a sedan rear window in a wagon it would look like a pie shape piece was missing.

I'm surprised you could see that seal there with the crappy quality of my photographs haha. I'll have to see if I can remove it, it was like that when I bought the car. I've seen your wagon in some threads before, what a machine. Posted up a wanted ad for the missing window. Also I started to clean out the filth from the interior. These guys must have liked to dine on the go a lot. In the glove box I mopped out a goo that I can only relate to soy sauce, but had no odor. Also in the glove box was a goo-covered, 80's-tastic family photograph. In the ash tray (which is also broken) there were ashes that resembled cremated remains. Under the steering wheel cover there was a layer of splashed beverage sediment. The rear seat is pretty nasty, I'm guessing this is where the sticky-fingered-children resided. In the auxiliary ashtray for the passengers in the back (the one in the middle console) there was more soy sauce goo. There are still bits of broken glass throughout the interior from when the window was smashed out as well. I'll have this thing spiffy in no time, or clean at least.

Awesome My lead on a window fell through, so the search continues. I'll start a thread in the wanted section here soon.

Haha you guys did get a lot of the good stuff. Usually any Japanese Domestic Market vehicle that we get is like the Bud Light of automobiles. I know these old drivetrains are pretty volatile when you start to add too much power to them. Most likely the EJ would be a n/a EJ22, just for its good power and reliability. If I really wanted to get crazy maybe a stock EJ22T out of the Legacy SS would go in. These swaps are all over my head though, I would have to do a ton more research. My swap experiences with Subaru include; Stock-to-stock engine swaps on EA81 and EA82 chassis' And putting a Weber on my EA82 lol The most extensive swap I've done was on my Honda Crx (eat your heart out Honda haters) I converted the car from OBD0 to OBD1 and installed a B16A2 (similar to the Crx Sir in Japan, which came stock with a B16A) I'm excited to get the ball rolling on this RX. I just wish I had more free time haha.

Thank you for the replies guys. There is a manual-crank-window coupe local to me, so I may end up with a window here soon.

Thanks! I'm still drooling over your Brat btw. My '85 Brat is jealous. That Datsun Roadster you are starting on looks like it will be a lot of fun. The instincts of a piranha. Sorry Turbo, but all of that stuff would stay if I did the EJ swap. Why put in a EJ trans when this one is as good if not better? Thank you! Electrical problems suck. Sounds like you have a sweet engine in the works.

I'm searching for a replacement passenger window for my coupe. I know that only a coupe window will fit. My windows are power (electric) operated. Does my replacement have to be the same? Or could a window from a manual (hand crank) window car work?

This guy got a new toy I was surfing Craigslist the other day and spotted this 1987 Rx coupe in Spanaway. The price was right, but the car is by no means perfect. It had its passenger window smashed out some time before the owner put it up for sale. The driver window is off the track, and the switch to operate it is finicky. There is a fair bit of surface rust on its posterior, and some cancer in the trunk lid and around the seal. The passenger seat belt wont lock under a forceful tug, such as it should during a crash. The driver seat belt is only there to prevent The Popo from giving you a ticket, completely inoperable. The cooling fan will not come on, the radiator is being cooled only from the a/c condenser fan. The front cv axles are sounding terrible, even going straight. Also the bearings and brakes need some attention. The driver door only locks from the outside, and I have not messed with the passenger side much. (Wouldn't want to damage the structural integrity of the p/o's tape job hehe) But the passenger door opens and latches as it should. Rear defroster is not working Extensive sun damage to the rear seat top Wear on driver's seat bolster from entry/exit The hood latch cable is broken, and a homemade latch pull was installed in the grill. I'm guessing this mod is the reason behind the missing grill. The bracket holding the power steering pump is cracked, letting the whole unit wobble in place. Also the power steering is very noisy when turning the wheel. But its not all bad news The car has about 120,000 miles The turbo works, as well as the cool turbo indicator on the dash. Full Time 4wd w/ Hi and Lo range, Center locking Diff, and LSD rear end Rear disk brakes Front and rear sway bars (Duh its a Rx) Heater, Front and rear wipers, radio all work All original bumpers, trim, ground kit, wing, and hubcaps No major dents or dings to be seen Glass (minus passenger window) is all beautiful Headliner is intact and not scarred Rear cargo cover is intact and funtional Adjustable height and lumbar settings on the driver seat I drove the Rx all the way from Spanaway to Seattle, some of the drive was side streets, and most of it freeway. No shimmy or shake, but I noticed the temp would creep up to an alarming position almost in the "Red". On the freeway in 5th, 55-60mph had the engine at 3k rpm. This sustained rpm was not this EA82T's cup of tea. The temp gauge never moved from its almost "Danger zone" position unless if I would slow down a bit. Using the turbo also would make the temp rise, so I would try to keep my foot out of it. Exterior Engine Bay The Rust Interior Some Pron Now I have a couple questions I know that the window that needs replacing is coupe specific. But does it matter if it comes out of a manual or electric window car? Mine are electric Also, who has one for sale? The grill is missing, who has a coupe specific one for sale? And lastly, I found this hose undone and plugged behind the intake manifold. (See pic below) I'm guessing its for the pcv? I'm not familiar with the EA82T, but why would someone do that? What plans do I have for it? I'm not sure at the moment, but I do want to get this thing running the way it should be. In the future maybe this thing will get an EJ, this is a deserving chassis for that swap to say the least. And since I have to do some bodywork, I think this thing would look awesome with a rally livery. But only time will tell, life tends to get in the way of my projects haha.

This problem was resolved, check it out here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/128701-the-86-wagon/page-2

Over time this wagon developed a stutter/hesitation problem that was truly mind boggling. I started a thread about it a little while back if you would like to read more into that. ---> http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149521-fuel-pump-controller-problem-hitachi-ea82/?do=findComment&comment=1253597 It turns out it was something in the distributor causing all the problems. After swapping distributors with a spare one, the engine fired right up. Also I have some exciting news; this wagon is now Weberized. I bought the Redline kit off of Ebay, the one with electric choke for the EA82. Ive had it sitting around for several months thinking my carburetor was about to go out, so it got swapped in as a byproduct of trying to get my car running again. I followed the advice of these threads: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/?hl=%2Bea82+%2Bweber+%2Bvacuum http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/110926-seshs-1987-gl-build-thread/?hl=%20ea82%20%20weber%20%20kanurys Goodbye Hitachi, it was fun while it lasted. I removed the intake manifold just to make the process of cleaning it easier. If you are worried that your intake manifold bolts are old and crusty, well use your own digression. I will also add that it is advised to use genuine Subaru intake manifold gaskets if you removed your intake manifold. Dry! No other sealants needed I stripped the manifold bare and plugged the water passage on top (for the stock Hitachi) with jb weld. To make it easy, I plopped a good size blob of jb weld into the opening also ensuring that some made its way into the bypass tube that exits the manifold there. Then I put painters tape over the opening and turned the manifold upside down to set up. Gravity made it come out perfectly flat and flush with the base where the carb mounts to. For the gasket that goes between the manifold and the Transdapt 2107 adapter, I put a layer of Permatex Form-A-Gasket 2 Non-Hardening sealer on both sides. All of the excess that beaded out into the manifold was wiped clean. This sealant is gasoline and oil resistant, and I also put a very thin layer of it on my new thermostat gasket. The gasket between the adapter and the Weber was left dry. This little guy came from Ace Hardware and cost $1.20. I got the idea from Kanurys build thread. It is rubber, hollow, and at the nipple it has a threaded brass connector inside which is also hollow. If you looked at Kanurys thread then you know what this is for; the pcv bypass to the air cleaner. Drilled a hole in the air cleaner baseplate. (Didn't compensate for the gasket, D'oh!) Clears the airfilter pretty well. My Thermo-vacuum-switch's vacuum lines are routed as such, from the top: 1: Fresh air Tee'd from the pcv bypass hose 2: EGR- Tee'd to the egr port on the right/front of the Weber carb 3: Distributor advance- Tee'd to distributor port on the left/front of the Weber carb Power to the choke is wired from the oem engine harness. It is the blue wire on the three-wire-plug. I used the old Hitachi's throttle lever, a couple washers had to be added to clear the Weber carb's linkage. When trying to decide if I wanted to use the throttle cable holder/ adjustment-point bracket that came with the Weber kit, or the stock one... I made my own bracket. This is because the stock one is now positioned too far away from the throttle lever with the Transdapt adapter. In contrast, the bracket that comes with the Weber kit is too close to the throttle lever for the stock Subaru throttle cable. However, the Weber's bracket can be bent backwards (similar to mine pictured above) to be in the correct position. But! The throttle cable position of the Weber bracket will put a bind on the throttle cable if the spare tire is put in the engine compartment. This is due to its high mounting point compared to the oem bracket. Now you can see why I opted to create my own, bolted to the back of the intake manifold. If you have a lift or if you don't care about putting the spare in the engine compartment, then by all means bend the Weber's bracket to work. I have to say, everything is so much easier to get to now.

1986 GL Wagon Stock carbureted ea82 For some reason the car is extremely hard to start, and once it is started, will not idle unless if throttle is added. Removing throttle will kill the engine soon if not immediately right after removal. Previous symptoms while car was being driven: engine missing at idle speed engine missing throughout rpm range while driving (mostly low rpm) engine randomly would die at idle while taking a right turn in neutral, engine would stall taking off from a stop or from a slow roll (shifting to 2nd around a corner) it would sometimes just fall flat on its face and chug very slowly as if it was about to die. feathering the throttle afterwards for a few seconds would then bring the rpm back up. Idle speed is set at about 1,100rpm (set there because it was not idling right and would die) timing is correct distributor is advanced to the end of its adjustment range, changing position doesn't do much if anything When starting the car, when the key is turned to the "on" position, I cannot hear the fuel pump priming itself or the relay/ controller clicking. On a Loyale that I own, when first turned to the "on" position I hear a clicking from a relay, and I hear the fuel pump priming from the rear of the car. This does not happen on the '86. Is it just that the two are designed differently? One is carbed, the other FI...