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Everything posted by el_freddo

  1. They’re good for WOT sounds with a decent exhaust fitted. You spent more time there than you would in an STi Cheers Bennie
  2. Now to work out what’s dead in the factory system and revert back to it for the built in fuel cut safety system in the event of a crash occurring. Glad to hear you’re mobile again though! Cheers Bennie
  3. Hence why I like the old stuff that doesn’t beep or require a button for the park brake or to start the engine! Cheers Bennie
  4. I’d run a 15amp if it were me. You could try a ten amp and see what happens… Cheers Bennie
  5. PT4wd 5spd or EA AWD 5spd, the mods and mounting requirements are the same! There’s more than one way to do the 5spd conversion in regards to mounting - after all, it’s two gearbox mounts that are modified to fit the 5spd. The tailshaft will need to be lengthened or use the two piece with the centre bearing mounted to the floor pan of the MY. I’m not sure if shift linkages need to be modded to fit, memory (from reading) says not, just a mount to the floor pan at the base of the shift lever like the L series had. If you go the AWD box your diff stubs will be 25 spline. Your brat has the smaller 23 spline diff stubs. Cheers Bennie
  6. The OEM plastic end tanks only crack due to age or when in a crash that’s significant enough to do the damage, at which point many radiators would do the same thing anyway. Cool pics! Can’t wait to see the end product. How many hours in machining there already? Cheers Bennie
  7. From memory Phinzina was working on this with an adaptor plate. I can’t find the thread I think I remember him writing about it on offroadingsubarus… I think it’s a case of make a plate that fits between the head and the dizzy that’s oil-tight an allow for timing adjustment. Or do what Silverbullet Sam did and make that electronic timing system that runs the ignition timing. Im looking forward to see what you come up with! Cheers Bennie
  8. You’re a tease Todd! The twin radiator outlets can be sorted with a pipe that adapts two outlets into one to the factory radiator. My mate had his H6 Gen2 converted Liberty setup like this. He only had one puller fan on the RHS that did the job well, even when working hard in summer and sand. I can’t remember if he had the 3L or the 3.6L though as I’m sure that would make a difference somehow… Cheers Bennie
  9. Ok, I have to eat my words here. Last weekend I found a ‘97 auto AWD Impreza sedan with rear drum brakes!! I NEVER knew this was a thing in Australia… Cheers Bennie
  10. That impreza is looking MINT! I don’t think you’d want tyres any larger than those - you’d loose too much drivability on road which is something that Subarus are good at when lifted compared to other four wheel drives. Keep up the good work. I love that hatch shape, lifted is even better!! Cheers Bennie
  11. Geez! You’d think from a tooling perspective they’d make the carb heads the same as the EFI heads, then adapt the carb intake manifold to the heads as it’s a “custom” piece with the carb anyway - then there’s one gasket across many EJ engines! It wouldn’t greatly effect performance, I really don’t understand why they did that! Well spotted. You must be getting excited right about now! Cheers Bennie
  12. G’day Rafa, Do you have a pitch stopper rod installed or shot gearbox mounts? This issue is induced from not having a pitch stopper rod or shot/broken gearbox mounts too. Hopefully it’s as simple as the oil change. I’ve not heard of the diesel oil flush trick, I’d be worried about it not being up to the task. Cheers Bennie
  13. Sounds like the boost control was having issues so they bypassed it. Maybe they ran an aftermarket boost T… who knows. 14 psi I think is about normal for stock. Being the foz version of the boosted EJ20 I believe they were detuned via cams and tune so the turbo foz didn’t upset the WRX owners. What turbo are you running? The stock sf5 GT foz turbo was the TF035. From what I understand this turbo is quite small. I don’t know how different turbos go in the real world yet, but a TD04 could be a good start or even a TD05. I’m sure there are many other good options for track work that others could recommend. It just comes down to what you want and how much coin you want to sink into the engine prep for a screamer. Cheers Bennie
  14. Why the focus on the bullet rear knuckles? Trying to reduce unsprung weight to help compensate for the heavier tyres? If you’re concerned with any of the captive nuts I’d be welding a flat bar of steel over them (with matching holes to the captive nuts of course!) to help distribute any loading further out from around the nuts. It’s worked well on my L series where we added this to the firewall captive nuts and a couple on the rear subframe mounts too. Stitch welding is worth the effort too. An old mate of mine said to just weld the entire section instead of doing the stitch method. His theory was if we’re to crack you’re doing someone very wrong as the whole weld “method” would be stronger than stitch welding. I already did the stitch welding so didn’t bother going back to “fix” it up. I’d love to have done the windscreen seams too but I wasn’t busting that out at that point in time so it remains untouched atm. Cheers Bennie
  15. Tidy work on the lift blocks Sam! If the diff is toast it’s most likely in the pinion shaft bearings. See if you can wiggle the pinion flange up and down at all. If you’ve had the pinion flange off it could be an issue of not being torqued properly, from what I understand of r160’s this could effect the bearing much like not properly torquing the rear axle nuts on the MY/L series does. What ratio are you running, 3.7 I’d imagine but it could also be a 3.9. I’m hoping a 3.7 for your sake as these are much easier to find than a 3.9!! The Gen1 Liberty is 3.7 and the diff will slot straight into the MY I’m hoping a dying rear diff bearing is the issue, easier to fix and will hopefully allow you to return everything back to the way you had it. Get an alignment! Driving a vibration free old school vehicle is awesome!! Cheers Bennie
  16. ^ I think @cznyis on the money here! I forgot about that rubber cover on the CV joints. They’re not always there these days! Cheers Bennie
  17. A bit of rubbish that was under your Subi? It’s not looking like a familiar item off the ol’ L series that I can think of… that doesn’t mean I right though! Cheers Bennie
  18. Awesome research Todd! And interesting about the strut tower measurements across the range of models, but not surprising since just about everything on the EJ platforms are interchangeable! I haven’t got email updates turned on, I think this change many years ago with a forum update. I’m not fussed, I know the threads I’m interested in - and the ones I’ve posted in have a star beside them rather than a dot Cheers Bennie
  19. I get it not wanting to use the two piece shaft! The single piece shaft is known to work, so I’m sure you can get it sorted! Cheers Bennie
  20. They’re probably different. Do some measuring and compare - or just make your own replacement with some material of your choice. Seats - go for BRZ/86 seats. They’re hot items over here and can be quite expensive to get a set. You can get heated seats too - I’m not sure if this is standard or only on selected models though. Cheers Bennie
  21. G’day Todd, You always have the most epic adventures, thanks for continuing to share! This last one looks like the most scenic one yet!! With the impreza build, are you ditching the rear drums for discs? Over here anything EJ had discs all round in AWD spec and rear drums only on the 2wd models. I’m looking forward to seeing this build completed. Those (very few!) over here that have dropped a H6 into an impreza love it from what I’ve heard, so it should be good at your end too! My mate with his H6 SF forester loves it and always drives it like he stole it. While you’ve got the impreza apart it could be a good idea to box the swing arm mount points to stop them moving. Old mate with the SF ripped one side of his out when he was in the middle of nowhere! Keep up the good work and all the pics! Cheers Bennie
  22. It sounds to me like there’s a wiring issue at play or the magic box is dead. Any rats or mice been active in the Subi? Cheers Bennie
  23. Sam, what gearbox mounts are you using in the 5 speed conversion? The tailshaft vibration could be a dying uni joint. I assume these are new from the modification of the shaft length and were possibly not greased properly. Blue-printing the engine (I’m sure that’s the same term used for balancing an engine) would’ve been quite expensive, and in the end it’s still an EA81 that would have noises and vibrations they probably can’t ever get rid of. Don’t hang on to this, just drive it for what it is and enjoy Hopefully you sort this vibration soon! Cheers Bennie
  24. G’day Matt, The single range EJ gearbox internals will fit into the single range EA front cases AFAIK - unless there are differences in the input shaft bearing, which I don’t know for sure. You end up with the same diff ratio you have now as this is stuck with the locking centre diff due to the unique pinion shaft design. With the PT4wd boxes you might be able to use the parts out of them but you can’t make it into an AWD box as the pinion shaft has the lower gear sets fitted to it, in the AWD boxes the lower gear set is fitted to a tube that the AWD pinion shaft passes through. I too had zero gearbox experience until I heard that the EA and EJ stuff swaps around - then I began playing with exactly that! Let me tell you that the AWD boxes are 1000 times easier to work on than the PT4wd boxes - simply because you don’t have to work out the dedent ball and spring mind maze of the PT4wd’s rear housing to remove it! Putting it back together is harder if you do the work over several weeks and forget the process… That’s where I started and have since played with the exact box you’re talking about - but it’s got some mods and the only thing original to the original locking AWD gearbox is half the pinion shaft, the locking centre diff and the rear housing. One thing I haven’t done is pressed gears off either lay shaft to replace bearings or synchros, which is what you’re wanting to do. If a shop does the work, expect to pay through the nose for their efforts. And make sure they know Subaru gearboxes! Now would be a good time to learn to rev match when down shifting to help the synchros out of you don’t already do this Cheers Bennie
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