el_freddo

Worst case scenario your valves are stuck open from some gummy crap. You should be able to pull them closed again with the rocker covers removed. If it happens again afterwards, I’d be looking at spraying some sort of solvent or fresh fuel down the intake while cranking to hopefully clean up the gum that’s holding them open. Cheers Bennie

If you wanted to test the pump you could re-route the fuel lines so the pump is sucking from a Jerrycan and the return line is sent back to another container to push out any other crap that’s still in the fuel system. Just remember that the jerrycan will empty pretty quickly! Cheers Bennie

Try looking for a flexible hose with the correct sized banjo bolt fittings on each end. Mamba on eBay sells good products, you just need to find what works - an early RS Liberty/RS Legacy or wrx one could work if the banjo bolts are the same size. Cheers Bennie

Love your work fellas! Cheers Bennie

The throw out bearing looks to be correct. Those little retainer clips are easy to deal with, just bend them until the desired shape/tension is achieved. When you say the clutch became loose, what do you mean - the feel of the clutch pedal was loose? It could be a snapped/breaking clutch cable or an issue with the pedal box cracking. The cracking issues is apparently common. This can be plated to put strength back into the pedal box so it doesn’t happen again. Cheers Bennie

I’ve never seen those devices before. Californian unit? We certainly didn’t get them in Australia! They almost sound like air pumps. Cheers Bennie

The ECU will be under the rear parcel shelf in the Vortex from memory. Glad it was an easy fix. You’ll probably find your fuel pump will need to be replaced, I’d be doing it anyway. The relay is probably fine, it’ll be the pump that’s seized. You can easily test this at the plug for the pump, stick a test light on it and turn the key to the on position. It should illuminate for three or four seconds when the ECU triggers the fuel pump relay to prime the fuel system before starting. All the best with it. Sounds like you’re well on your way with this one! Cheers Bennie

I don’t think the EA82 era ECUs were integrated into the dash anymore than having a check engine light and referencing a reed switch on the speedo cable for the VSS. Do some research into issues with the digi dash, the EA81 MY’s digi dash was known for issues with some of the components dying, taking out the dash with it. You could have a similar issue in the EA82 digi dash. Cheers Bennie

Have you checked the timing belt to make sure it’s not broken?

Fuel related yes. Two are fuel lines, the chewed one is the vapour from the tank to the purge control solenoid/carbon canister. Unsure which one it is exactly, definitely vapour line though. Cheers Bennie

That mounts to the steering column mount bolt. You can see the marks from the flat aluminium/metal plate “washers” that fit in the same area. Cheers Bennie

Even on the EJ25D? I thought these were a thick composite gasket which was half the issue with these engines… Curious. Cheers Bennie

Check out dextron IV - the description will no doubt tell you that it’s suitable for vehicles where dextron III is recommended/required. Cheers Bennie

When squeezing the return line and getting the higher psi reading, how does the engine run? Better or worse? Cheers Bennie

Geez, that front end took a fair hit! It’s worse than I thought it was going to be. I love how you look at the issue and go “we got this” and get stuck into it. Over here that would be a write off for a regular vehicle unless it was something special to its owner and they either know how to fix it or know someone that does and is willing to do the work. Looking forward to the detailed pics of the work done! Cheers Bennie

I don’t know the SPFI well at all, are you sure the fuel pressure spec is 21psi? I thought it would be more inline with other EFIs like the EJs up at about 40psi. I’ve used the same external fuel pump for a NA MPFI EA82 and an EJ22. No issues. My thinking is that your fuel pressure is half of what it should be. This could be the fuel regulator or the fuel pump itself, or both. Pull the vac line for the fuel pressure regulator and make sure it doesn’t smell of fuel. If so, it’s dead. Cheers Bennie

Late to the party, if only doing clutch I drop the gearbox. On our 2000 Liberty/Legacy, I pulled the gearbox and managed to slide it back enough to work on the clutch and swap it out for a new one. This saved dropping the gearbox, I can’t remember if I managed to get away without removing the drive shafts. If I needed to it was an easy wiggle one way then the other with the gearbox because my model has diff stub axles, yours will have the male driveshafts into the gearbox to contend with. I used two steel rods that sat on the engine crossmember and the front gearbox crossmember piece. The rear crossmember and centre piece was removed, as was the gear linkages, tail shaft and exhaust. Where there’s a will there’s a way. These days I find it easier to drop the gearbox rather than lift out the engine. I put the car on ramps and go from there. If dropping the gearbox out all together I use a motorcycle jack and usually need to get the car up higher to clear the bellhousing as the engine comes out from under the car. Cheers Bennie

That’s where the thermo fans kick in! My brumby with that dashboard conversion (we never got them in the brat/brumby from factory like you guys in the states did) does the exact same thing when there’s not enough airflow through the radiator - typically when in traffic. Unless you were pulling highway speeds I wouldn’t stress about it, particularly if it came back down to normal op temp just above the first black line. Cheers Bennie

You’ll be right. Do one side at a time so you have a reference point for the removed sundial. If the dial becomes hard to turn about two notches past your original start mark, back it off so the marks line up. Can’t go wrong doing it this way! Cheers Bennie

When you say “centre seal” do you mean on the sundial? The seal is fitted from behind the sundial, so once it’s removed you knock it out towards the direction of the diff (orientation when the sundial is fitted). When you fit the new seal sure you have the correct unit to put in as they are directional. Also have a new large O ring on hand to install too. When you remove the sundial from the gearbox, mark where it’s currently located across the dial and the gearbox case, count the number of turns until the dial is free from the threads, also a good idea to mark where this point is so you’re not potentially counting a turn that’s not engaged on the thread. Cheers Bennie

G’day all, I’m after other EJ22 head gasket part numbers that might be available. I have these part numbers: 11044AA111 11044AA112 Both are unavailable over my way. Hoping the later model EJ22 you guys seem to get in the phase 2 will have another part number I can try. My almost teenage son and I are sorting out a gen2 Liberty/Legacy for him to learn to drive. It needs HGs… I like genuine parts where possible, but if I can’t find any I’ll checkout what’s available aftermarket and go from there. Cheers Bennie

Wire in a check engine light - you’ll be alerted to faults that are present and can check for any stored codes - this is a real help when diagnosing engine issues with modern efi engines, even with conversions Cheers Bennie

Have you interrogated the fuel pump relay to ensure it’s working properly? How are all the electronics stored in the beach buggy? If the relay is left to atmosphere conditions it could be dirty contacts - in the fuel pump relay and/or the main six pin relay. If the ECU is getting power but the fuel pump is not activating, how are your earth points looking? You’ll find your wiring harness diagrams somewhere. Alternatively this is where you now spend the time probing every single wire and recording what it does and where it’s located in the ecu pinout. Not fun but could help with future trouble shooting. Have you checked for codes with the check engine light? Cheers Bennie

Your brats came with hill holders?? We missed out on this. My 1990 brumby does not have one but my 1988 L series does (as did my sister’s old 1984 L series sedan). They do need adjustment. Small amounts, test - adjust - repeat until you get the release point you’re happy with. Cheers Bennie

Yeah, right up to that point. At least it’s not life threatening and you know know to expect it now. Cheers Bennie