el_freddo

My first thought is what voltage are you getting at the ignition switch when in the “ON” position? By running the wire from the positive of the battery to the coil you’ve effectively bypassed the ON setting of the ignition switch. This to me suggests an issue with the ignition switch. It’s possibly over 40yo so it’s done well! You could do this test twice - once just using the factory wiring as is, if that shows a low voltage reading then hook up that positive wire between the battery and coil then see what the voltage is at the back of the ignition switch, I’d expect it to be back feeding 12v if you got a low reading the first time. Cheers Bennie

B - swap LSD centre into the diff housing with the desired diff ratio. Easiest option when changing diff ratios with the LSD that’s retained. Cheers Bennie

Subarino auto in Perth sells a complete 2 inch kit for the MY and L series. Shipping to you would be the costly bit, no harm in asking about the kit anyway. Cheers Bennie

Some form of aftermarket engine management will definitely benefit your build for best performance and longivity. GD dealt with Link ECUs, others on here have used other brands, many of not all seem to do what’s required of them. Cheers Bennie

Sometimes you just happen to get both lights blow on the high or low beam. Replacing the globes rectified the issue? If not, that’s when to start digging deeper into the problem. Cheers Bennie

Sometimes it’s the simple things that cause the most grief (and wallet pain!). This relay mod is common on the early Liberty/Legacy’s too Cheers Bennie

Heads and all the associated gear will move over to the replacement block regardless of where it came from. The thing to check out is any differences in the pistons that may affect small things that may or may not become an issue. Sorry I can’t be more definitive on that front, I haven’t played much with the later model engine blocks so don’t know for sure. Cheers Bennie

Did you swap the timing gears over from the 2008 engine to the replacement 2001 engine? If not, that’s you’re issue I reckon. Cheers Bennie

It would all depend on what info the TCU wants and/or shares with the ECU. If it’s just a matter of throttle angle, speed sensor, engine revs it should be sweet if you wire it in properly. If it wants more from the ECU then it gets more complicated from there… could do a whole body loom swap and drag over the matching engine for the complete setup 🤔 Cheers Bennie

That was one of my thoughts but there’s a captive thread in that so where did the nut come from? I’d double check that you do in fact have the ball joint retainer bolt in place on either side and done up appropriately tight. You don’t want one of those ball joints dropping out and letting your hub take its own unplanned trip! My other thought was also the engine pitch stopper rod, I wonder if this was replaced with another bolt from somewhere else… Being that this was a “we” job - as in we did this and we did that… old mate isn’t stitching you up by placing this Subaru looking bolt in the mix of all your other nuts and bolts? That’s something a good mate might do as a prank! Cheers Bennie

The good news is that I can’t see it being a bolt from a major component like a ball joint or hub retainer bolt as they have captive threads, rendering that nut useless. And it’s too short for a suspension arm bolt. I’ve had this many times without issue. Keep the left over bits aside in a labelled container incase you find a missing bolt. While they’re off the vehicle consider the effort as weight reduction. Cheers Bennie

Thanks mate. Got the starting and idle issues sorted it seems. I think the idle mixture was too lean and driving it around hard for a bit may have moved come internal crud. Who knows?! Good news is it’s running well and seems to be returning good fuel economy. Cheers Bennie

I’ll chime in on GD’s behalf. Burn it. Burn it to the ground and get some old school GM gear to drive into the Armageddon. Ok, maybe I lathered that on a bit thick but that’s kind of how I read GD rolling. Cheers Bennie

And then buy what? Another car with someone else’s issues? I’d keep the vehicle you’ve ironed the issues out of. Otherwise trade it in at a dealership for a new vehicle and let them deal with it. Cheers Bennie

Worked perfect before I touched the carb. I didn’t strip any of it down and left it as is since the rebuild. It’s also summer down here atm - not very cold for morning cold starts. Cheers Bennie

Ok finally got an update on this one! I bit the bullet on buying a carb kit - for a DC 306 hitachi carb. This was a HTK-421 kit. Apparently for the needle and seat for the float valve I’d need the one from the kit HT432 but I didn’t bother and didn’t swap this bit as it wasn’t flooding the bowl. All went well with the rebuild. I’ve had to readjust my idle since tuning. Other thing I need to look into is why it’s hard to start when cold. The old double pump and crank trick doesn’t get it started. Once warmed up she fired up no worries! It runs well without any misfiring which I’m stoked about! Cheers Bennie

Email them the link to the YouTube video. That might get them moving with some action. Cheers Bennie

That bar work looks awesome all laid out like that! Good effort creating all of that. Having it painted would have it looking primo! Cheers Bennie

Bugger That second part number is a digit short. I can’t remember if it’s 673 or something else. I learned the other day that what you call a C clamp we call a G clamp over here - because it looks like a G! Thought I’d share Cheers Bennie

I hope you didn’t put the head gaskets on backwards so the oil gallery hole in the HG is on the wrong side! 🤞

Cruise is disabled when you’ve got a CEL. Only fix is to sort out the issue with the CEL, otherwise get used to maintaining your cruise speed with your right foot again. Cheers Bennie

The revving higher than normal and not the usual power sounds to me like it’s an auto issue. I can’t really help out as I’m not into autos and don’t really know how they work. You might be able to get the transmission serviced or overhauled if you’re wanting to keep the old school rolling for a long time to come. That engine is bullet proof if you look after it. Cheers Bennie

That’s an internet fallacy - there’s known tech bulletins posted around that state conditions that head bolts can be reused and when they should be replaced. If you know the engine wasn’t cooked badly I’d reuse the head bolts. GD talks about cleaning them up of any scale and running a tap (or modified old head bolt) down each thread to remove any gunk in there. As NVU says, if they squeak or squeal while torquing at any stage that head bolt won’t be done to proper speck and you’ll end up with the same issue. I’m not 100% sure on what the required action in this situation is - eg: back off all bolts, replace offending unit then restart the procedure or do that ^ and replace the head gasket you just fitted. I hope this helps. Cheers Bennie

Yeah I do! I forgot about that (been too long since driving Ruby Scoo 😢 ). I found out about the kit to refine the diff further after I had the whole gearbox together - I’m not even sure the kit is still available now. Good diff though and I want another one for my brumby build but they’re either hard to find or expensive to land in Oz. I’ll probably try a factory Torsten diff this time around, just need to save some coin. Cheers Bennie

That’s odd that it’s “between” or most noticeable in 2nd and 3rd gears as they’re in the middle of the gear sets and furtherest away from either bearing sets. I’ve not messed with those bearings before as I didn’t have a press back then. Here’s a pic of the dual range gearbox (EA82 AWD but it’s basically the same) opened up: Only other thing I can think it being is not the bearings but 2nd and 3rd gear wearing out/whining. But that doesn’t fit the bill of what you’re explaining either with the noise being there on start up. It’s a good head scratcher! The “ting” noise is an odd one as everything in the 4wd system is rotating when you drive so I’d think you’d still hear it then too, unless it’s a chipped tooth in the 4wd system in which case you wouldn’t hear it until the gears are loaded and this will be speed dependent - usually sounds like a distinct clicking sound but this one could be reverberating to the tailshaft to make the ting sound. If you tap your tailshaft with a metal tool you’ll probably be able to recreate the sound in the garage. Do you have any issues selecting reverse or getting out of reverse? Asking as I’m wondering if the reverse slider gear is *just* disengaging enough to get another gear but still engaged enough that it’s grinding on the other gears. This would be a horrid noise at cruise! Other thinking is you have a gear selector that’s resting on a synchro creating the grinding sound. But I reckon you’d have a very crunchy gear when selecting it and trying to deselect it could be difficult. Gearboxes are fun and not as scary as ppl think they are to work on. I enjoy it when I mess around with them! Cheers Bennie