Durania

Care to post more pics? Engine bay, interior, etc.

Have fun doing them. I would suggest you change both sides and go ahead and do your spark plugs while you're in there. Get the gaskets from the dealer as I got two driver's side gaskets from the Amazon Fel-Pros and didn't discover this until I had my car torn apart. I did have good luck with the half-moon seals I got from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KSASOO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

I dealt with this garbage on my 95 Outback. Both sides snapped off. Drilled the old bolt out and put this back in its place.

Doing some quick googling of that trouble code, people are saying a fault neutral safety switch. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/23128-engine-light-p1507.html

Yep, been in the same situation with my 95 Outback over my 05 STi. It was just so much more convenient to hop in the wagon and not have to worry about where I park at a store. I have recently sold my wagon and looking to upgrade to an LL Bean Edition H6 Outback. I honestly feel like I loved the wagon more than the STi that I am currently daily driving.

I may be wrong but won't the testing station look to see if that header is C.A.R.B compliant? If not, they may fail you. It also looks like the kit uses a hell of an angled extension piece to get the rear oxygen sensor out of the exhaust stream. That used to be a way to keep from getting the P0420 code on my RS. The idea is to pull it further out of the exhaust stream so the CEL would go off. Didn't work for me though.

I had used a local guy to rebuild the alternator(s) for my Brat many years ago and they didn't really turn out like I wanted them to. The voltage while idling was pretty low the other day when I checked it. Was around 13 volts and from what I gather, should be around 14. The headlights will dim slightly when I hit the brakes and the turn signal will make the blower motor slow down as it blinks.

Looking like the alternator on my Outback is getting weaker and was wanting to see about upgrade options for it. Is there a drop in replacement that is a higher output than the stock 85 amp from another model that won't require any modifications to the wiring?

I recently got a hitch for my wagon and am wanting to go with a plug-n-play solution to adding trailer lights. Do they pretty much plug in to one of the tail lights and split off from there to the trailer? Anybody have one they can recommend? Thanks.

Yeah, that is a good point to start with. When I changed my rotors, I left the pads in the calipers so I didn't have to fool with all the pins and clips on the brembo 4 pots. Just picked it up and sat it out of the way as one whole unit. May just need to get some lube in there. Will try it out whenever I get a chance.

Noticed in the last week that when braking at speeds below 55, I get a single clunk or a knock on my STi. Definitely feeling it in the front. I recently replaced the rotors with Centric High Premiums in July. I pulled the car up on ramps last night and checked all my bolts that I removed to install the rotors and they were tight. I gave them a jiggle test, did not touch anything with a socket. Aside from noticing a recently slung open inner passenger side cv boot, I am out of ideas. I did have a problem when taking the old rotors off that they were seized to the hub. Speaking to a mechanic friend, he said his STi did this when he got some rust on the hub.

Well, the gasket is new. I do plan to replace the hose and clamps, not thrilled about using cut to fit crap. Is there a thermostat diy somewhere so I can find out if I did something wrong or not?

Well, after putting a metric ton of RTV on this thing, I am now leaking from the radiator house where it meets the housing. I shouldn't have to use all this damn goo to make it not leak. Either I did not install the thermostat gasket right or this housing is crap. I wrapped it around the thermostat like the old one was. After the first use of RTV I started getting coolant leaking out of the bolt holes, more rtv on them and that seemed to fix the problem but I still have the coolant coming past the clamp.

Good thinking. Will put some RTV on it tonight at the seam.

Last week I finally tracked down the source of my coolant leak to be at the thermostat housing. This evening was my first change to tackle the job on my 95 Outback. Put the OE gasket around the OE thermostat and slid it back in, no problem. Noticed while filling the coolant that I still had the same leak at the housing where it meets the water pump. What the hell did I do wrong? Is the thermostat supposed to support itself inside of the water pump underbelly as in holding itself before I put the housing on? Is my plastic housing warped? I gave it a good visual inspection and did not see a problem with the housing. Open for suggestions. Thanks.