Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


travelvw last won the day on March 22 2019

travelvw had the most liked content!

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Ozarks, MO
  • Referral
  • Biography
    80/90's Japanese, please!
  • Vehicles

Recent Profile Visitors

1053 profile views

travelvw's Achievements

Advanced Member

Advanced Member (3/11)



  1. Bummer about the low range, that helical gear looks roached! Get that thing sorted; I want one that can handle even more thrust force and a similar driving style. Whenever you get to disassembling and rebuilding it, I am curious to find out if there are any additional parts with excessive wear, or if it is just that one gear. I think it's time to focus on the first gen, right? You should be proud of the years of use and abuse you got out of the black Outback. Gorgeous up there. K
  2. Love the addition of the hi/lo shift levers over the cables. Looks like you are about finished mocking up the rear suspension. The entire skid plate frame looks well executed. Everything I'm seeing is an improvement over the Outback... man, you are taking this car to the next level! K
  3. The first gen is coming right along. Lets see the final install of L/R billet knuckles and chromoly trailing arms. Headers look close enough to the rack boots, I'd make heat shields or wrap the ends. K
  4. Lots of great work going on here, but I can't believe you bought headers: love it!! K
  5. Lower 'frame' on the second gen pic is gusseted at the firewall; that certainly looks stronger. Good point. K
  6. Love it! I can't believe you bought headers; car is going to sound good, too. How about doing those head gaskets now while it's out of the car instead of later when it's in the car? Looks like these cars need more bracing for the front a-pillar; same place that repeatedly cracked on the Outback? Does B's Forester have any bracing up front like a WRX? K
  7. Exactly what D said, minus the scoops and vents... if it is indeed factory matched paint: green or Miller High Life. The gas tank skids look great. Bumper could use more K or B, but it's a good start :). K
  8. The answer is a minimum of 3.5" subframe spacers for 235/75R15, so I'll be making 4" spacers to be safe. Also, I forgot to post this video from spring of this year:
  9. ^That's what I figured. I would personally like to limit the body cutting. It's more work than making spacers, which will in turn give me more floor/rocker clearance from the unforgiving Ozark rocks. We all have slightly different goals for our projects. So, hopefully J is capable of answering a simple question with something more than sarcasm? My experience with vintage portal axles is wheel hop, blown bearings, and oil leaks: my bus will not have portals by the time I'm done with it. K
  10. Love the aluminum spacers. I'm clarifying my original question: I did say top of the fenders, but I did not mean to imply the top of the fender well, but the perimeter of the fender lip. You have 1.5" subframe spacers to fit your suspension with 215/75R15 on factory wheels, while staying just inside the fenders (a perfect fit). I will be running 235/75R15 with my custom wheel offset, which would put the tire tread well up into the fender lips with just 1.5" spacers. I do not want to cut into the fenders, if possible (especially in the rear, which will open up a body cavity I would otherwise have to stitch back together). So, I am asking how far past the rear fender lip your tire tread is at full bump (looks like 1.25" to 1.5")? With that reference, I will have an idea of what size spacers I need to make to clear the rear fender lip with my tires. It'll be something like 3"-4" subframe and 1.5"-2.5" for the strut tops. This might be a useful reference for Slammo too, even if he chooses to cut. Text me if you need further clarification. Thanks, K
  11. Nice progress!! Pretty clear from these pics that anything over 215/75R15 is going to require more lift and/or a lot of cutting, particularly in the rear. I also have slightly decreased backspacing in my wheels to clear the strut perch for 235's (so I hope), which will push the tires out. I would rather not cut into the top of the fenders... will you measure how far under the rear fender lip, the top of the tire tread is? Looks like 1 1/4" or so, which means I'll need at least 2" more lift. I realize first gen is different than bugeye/hawkeye, but it would be a decent reference point. K
  12. The moth was super cool (never seen one here like that), but the baby snapping turtle was a helluva find! K
  • Create New...