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travelvw

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travelvw last won the day on March 22 2019

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    Ozarks, MO
  • Referral
    USMB
  • Biography
    80/90's Japanese, please!
  • Vehicles
    B-Rex

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  1. The moth was super cool (never seen one here like that), but the baby snapping turtle was a helluva find! K
  2. Great trip, happy to show you around my local woods. The Subaru's had no problem doing the toughest trails in the area. What video we shot will(may) show how impressive the low range is, particularly the Outback's 3:1/6spd combo, really incredible!! Nearly crawls like my pickup at 4.7:1, which is crazy to see a Subaru do in person! The short, rocky climb we did Saturday where we passed the horses had me thinking they were riding the ideal transportation for that particular trail. Friday had a long muddy, washed out, steep climb, too and ya'll scooted up it like it was nothing. Yep, I already have a set of long travel struts, but I'm convinced the low range and 6spd is the ultimate gearing/drive train combo. That said, B's Forester required only a little more throttle and momentum, which is the complete opposite of the last trip we did in the Ozarks. Both cars were extremely capable and nothing broke. The only thing I would change for these kind of trails (as you mentioned), is more ground clearance and larger tires. Most folks doing any serious off-roading in a Subaru have 4" plus spacers; I'll probably do at least 2-3" and 29" tires. Sure, it won't handle as well at speed, but as you saw, with 2' or so more body ground clearance on my truck, I never got any more tipsy on those trails. Anything can be put on it's side given the wrong obstacle/route/driver, but you're nowhere near top heavy, IMO. There's certainly something in between here. Beating your cars thru obstacles is really hard on the body and I think it's mostly unnecessary, but I guess we will agree to disagree :). Looking down the horse trail (which seems like a muddy rut in rolling hills in the pic), is damn near a straight shot up, rocky climb from the creek to the top of the ridge. Subaru, no problem. More of the muddy, rutted section I drug my diffs thru w/33's and barley made it pinned in low 3rd. Last section of that climb out has been created by 35-40" tires. Sunset camp. K
  3. Sounds like you're getting close on a total package that works. Those conversion axles must be junk! I assume that is your only option until you make billet rear knuckles? If so, I see why that's next on the list. K
  4. Might be a good time to figure out the pics issue folks have mentioned many times? I can only see them thru Firefox, not on Chrome, Edge, or Safari. Set aside a large long sleeve for me, please! K
  5. Thanks for verifying. It did have a paper seal (thick carburetor gasket like material). I would use aviation brown sealant on the threads and gasket. K
  6. Yes of course, I'm not using a stock gas tank. Message me and we'll figure out how to get it to you. I saved every piece of hardware off my brat and nothing else looked like that bolt, so this has to be it. K
  7. Pretty sure this is it. I can't verify because the gas tank was ruined and has since been scrapped. K
  8. On an engine that's 20 years old, replace the head gaskets before you put it in the car. K
  9. Gorgeous scenery, no doubt! Very much how I remember it. I'll have to make a trip back to that area again, someday soon. Awesome. I can't imagine the wiring harness being any more complicated or different than the one I just pulled out of my WRX? There are two major splits through the a-pillars where you had all the body flexing and breakage in the past... makes me wonder if your problem is there from previous damage or repair (weld slag?). Wiring issues rarely occur anywhere other than at the ends (connection points), but on your car, it's certainly possible you have damage somewhere in-between. If so, I imagine it will be visible damage to the outside of the harness. Looking forward to hearing more about this low range; something many folks would be interested in for their Subaru. K
  10. The new glass was the last one any sources I used could find. There could be another individual like myself out there who may also have one, but I believe there are no more listed on the national database glass suppliers use... after I bought this one. They all said it was the last one in the states. I'm offering it up for sale because its nicer than I need; used will serve my purposes just fine. But even in the used glass department, I have way more than I hope to ever use. If you have a daily driver, it would be wise to collect at least one spare from someone somewhere, before they become nearly impossible to source. It took me a year to gather what I need in a part of the country with few vintage Subarus. It will be a little easier for those in the NW and NE. The seals do seem pretty stretchy. I imagine if the glass is close to a Brat etc., it could be stretched and even spliced down to fit. K
  11. Fits 1978-1981 Subaru Brat (first generation), also wagons/sedans 1978-1979, 2WD/4WD, DL/GL. They will NOT fit coupes GF and FE, but may fit earlier wagons/sedans?... correct me if I'm wrong. I have a few good used, old-stock OEM windshields available that have been sitting in a warehouse since the mid-to-early-eighties from cars that were only a couple/few years old at the time. Not much if any blasting, some have wiper marks (buff-able), one has a tiny bullseye down low, but all are in pretty good shape considering. If you purchase in person (preferred), you can take your pick from the stash: $175 each. I have one brand new windshield, very rare. Perfect condition NOS. These have not been available for many years. $300. I also have new windshield gaskets from Precision (PRP WCR 288), which is necessary for installation: $75 each. No shipping unless you are willing to pay for crating. Pick-up only, or possibly meet in the middle for gas, wear and tear. This will likely work best if you are in the general area or have a friend/family that is. Located in Springfield, MO. Thanks, Kevin
  12. Sounds like maybe too much choke now and your idle speed is set too low. You need to find someone who knows how to tune a carb. K
  13. If the original runs great, leave it be (unlikely). Most folks like the convenience of the auto (electric) choke, but it's finicky to set perfectly and generally ends up on the rich side to run well under most circumstances. I too personally like the manual choke since you only use what you need, which shouldn't be much unless its really cold (not Hawaii). I've run many carbs without a choke and had no issue other than having to hold it for a bit after pumping to fire it up. Manual choke is the best of both worlds IMO. Weber offers a conversion kit for auto choke carbs, and its cheap. An auto choke carb can be converted to manual but a manual cannot be converted to an auto. I would personally sell or give away the used who knows what carbs and buy a genuine Spanish Redline Weber if you want your Brat to be reliable and fun to drive... the cheap stuff is Chinese knock off and its absolute garbage; it will not last. A quality carburetor is worth every bit of $3-400; it is your entire fuel/air management system and that is dirt cheap. K 730 or K 730-M K
  14. Rebuilding an old carburetor rarely works out unless you are meticulous and know what you are doing. Sounds like the carburetor. Choke not adjusted properly (cold idle), clogged jets or any of the many, tiny passages in a carburetor, improper tuning, etc. If its legal there, I'd put a new Weber conversion on the car. K
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