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Everything posted by travelvw

  1. Gorgeous scenery, no doubt! Very much how I remember it. I'll have to make a trip back to that area again, someday soon. Awesome. I can't imagine the wiring harness being any more complicated or different than the one I just pulled out of my WRX? There are two major splits through the a-pillars where you had all the body flexing and breakage in the past... makes me wonder if your problem is there from previous damage or repair (weld slag?). Wiring issues rarely occur anywhere other than at the ends (connection points), but on your car, it's certainly possible you have damage somewhere in-between. If so, I imagine it will be visible damage to the outside of the harness. Looking forward to hearing more about this low range; something many folks would be interested in for their Subaru. K
  2. Fits 1978-1981 Subaru Brat (first generation), also wagons/sedans 1978-1979, 2WD/4WD, DL/GL. They will NOT fit coupes GF and FE, but may fit earlier wagons/sedans?... correct me if I'm wrong. I have a few good used, old-stock OEM windshields available that have been sitting in a warehouse since the mid-to-early-eighties from cars that were only a couple/few years old at the time. Not much if any blasting, some have wiper marks (buff-able), one has a tiny bullseye down low, but all are in pretty good shape considering. If you purchase in person (preferred), you can take your pick from the stash: $175 each. I have one brand new windshield, very rare. Perfect condition NOS. These have not been available for many years. $300. I also have new windshield gaskets from Precision (PRP WCR 288), which is necessary for installation: $75 each. No shipping unless you are willing to pay for crating. Pick-up only, or possibly meet in the middle for gas, wear and tear. This will likely work best if you are in the general area or have a friend/family that is. Located in Springfield, MO. Thanks, Kevin
  3. The new glass was the last one any sources I used could find. There could be another individual like myself out there who may also have one, but I believe there are no more listed on the national database glass suppliers use... after I bought this one. They all said it was the last one in the states. I'm offering it up for sale because its nicer than I need; used will serve my purposes just fine. But even in the used glass department, I have way more than I hope to ever use. If you have a daily driver, it would be wise to collect at least one spare from someone somewhere, before they become nearly impossible to source. It took me a year to gather what I need in a part of the country with few vintage Subarus. It will be a little easier for those in the NW and NE. The seals do seem pretty stretchy. I imagine if the glass is close to a Brat etc., it could be stretched and even spliced down to fit. K
  4. travelvw

    79 DL idle problem

    Sounds like maybe too much choke now and your idle speed is set too low. You need to find someone who knows how to tune a carb. K
  5. travelvw

    79 DL idle problem

    If the original runs great, leave it be (unlikely). Most folks like the convenience of the auto (electric) choke, but it's finicky to set perfectly and generally ends up on the rich side to run well under most circumstances. I too personally like the manual choke since you only use what you need, which shouldn't be much unless its really cold (not Hawaii). I've run many carbs without a choke and had no issue other than having to hold it for a bit after pumping to fire it up. Manual choke is the best of both worlds IMO. Weber offers a conversion kit for auto choke carbs, and its cheap. An auto choke carb can be converted to manual but a manual cannot be converted to an auto. I would personally sell or give away the used who knows what carbs and buy a genuine Spanish Redline Weber if you want your Brat to be reliable and fun to drive... the cheap stuff is Chinese knock off and its absolute garbage; it will not last. A quality carburetor is worth every bit of $3-400; it is your entire fuel/air management system and that is dirt cheap. K 730 or K 730-M K
  6. travelvw

    79 DL idle problem

    Rebuilding an old carburetor rarely works out unless you are meticulous and know what you are doing. Sounds like the carburetor. Choke not adjusted properly (cold idle), clogged jets or any of the many, tiny passages in a carburetor, improper tuning, etc. If its legal there, I'd put a new Weber conversion on the car. K
  7. travelvw


    I sent you a private message, thanks. K
  8. 1978-1981 4x4 Subaru Brat/Wagon first gen parts pulled from a recently driving car... located in Springfield, MO. I am willing to ship. Parts came off of a 1980 Brat. bumpers (pair): Pending sale. Everything is sold except the bumpers.
  9. I still have the bumpers. Everything else is pending sale. Bumpers are in good shape for being 40+ years old, but they are not perfect. Couple very small dings, nicks in the end caps, and a some pitting on the rear bumper brackets. The chrome could be cleaned up with 000 steel wool and some chrome wax/polish. I added more pics. Shipping to WA will not be cheap. K
  10. Yeah, good times! Thanks for showing me around S IL. Like the Ozarks, but smaller in scale. Any pay campground is a compromise :), but Trail of Tears SF turned out to be a great spot. The power line tracks had the steepest grades I have ever climbed. Once again, I am really impressed with the long travel Subarus and especially B's with the low range; that car is almost unstoppable. The hill you had to winch/tow up, B just drove around you, half on the trail, half on the side of the hill, no problem. Rock stacking for D probably could have been avoided with a slightly different line? Wonder how the 6 will do with low range in comparison, even with the lack of low-end torque plus the weight of the caging? I have had stacks of used starters do the same thing: work on the bench, but not reliably in a car. K
  11. ...I'm still looking for windshields, Paul ;). Keeping the body, lots of rust repair and merging it with my WRX chassis. The remaining parts are up for grabs. I drove this car to work for about a month before I took it apart. K
  12. Damn! This car is really coming along. I love the idea of those front CV's also in the rear with HD wheel bearings and it looks like custom knuckles (to be built)? K
  13. That's hard work around all the tight spots, seam seal, etc. Not necessarily pretty, but functional; should buy you some significant time. Good luck on the V2R this year! K
  14. Hey scalman, have fun doing what you do and others may do so differently. Yes, anyone can have fun with whatever they have. To each his/her own; PT is not trying to prove anything here but no doubt there is a difference... if you can't see that from Lithuania, that is your problem, not 'ol todd's. The difference between stock or AGX and long travel is night and day. The AGX will hold up, I have them, they work great; much better than stock for aggressive driving, in my opinion. Long travel is a blast and a totally different beast. I like the clips at speed with all the whoops, vid car driving on the road next to the long travel and you can clearly see the wheel travel... what a blast that must be! My car would buck me to death and rattle itself apart at that speed. Also, nice that you finally tackled those rear strut towers. About time. K
  15. Get it done pontoonJ! I promise to finally sort out my fuel issue with a non-aftermarket pump and maybe do my timing/water etc. and all the other lift and bash related stuff, too! So much to do. Saw these folks on launch control, a Subaru powered buggy 2nd in class V2R. Way ahead in its class until a different sort of fuel issue arose (vapor lock). I've been driving around without utilizing boost for months, which is pure torture. K
  16. Well, it seems they are currently on a long trip out West! In the mean time, I have not posted my version of the AR trip from last March...
  17. Odd that B's CV angle hasn't changed much with the softer springs, maybe they will settle in, or possibly still not soft enough? Some 'real' bumpers would help, even if its just tubing... Still looks like a lot of metal missing from those rear strut towers to head out on a long trip as is... I would consider paying up for some rally wheels... haven't bent any of mine and they have taken some hard hits. OEM is clearly not made for the abuse you throw at it. K
  18. My opinion is paint it black for sure and trim the bumper cover. Add lights to the bumper or inset. What's left of my bumper cover stays attached to my car much better than when it was whole and it looks damn sano. I left a small gap between the bumper and the cover, about 1/8". Well done on the tubing mixed with the sheet metal: I've modified mine twice and plan on doing it again to make the center punch much stronger. K
  19. Not much brat left but an incredible build! K
  20. Sounds logical. Especially considering they are cheap and readily available. Nice work! Those subframe/trailing arm bracket fixes should do the trick. Stitching the fatigue torn sheet metal together I imagine won't hold forever, but what can you do? If you decide to swap to a rust-free body, probably worth applying what you have learned and do a full brace and seam weld to all the weak points before transferring anything? I know that's a lot of work but it sure would be nice to have a solid, well built car from the start instead of constant patching to hold it all together after rust and fatigue have taken their toll. Slammo, thanks for sharing on the TDRA race. K
  21. I hear ya', I have 3 project/driver's and can only really afford to do one right. Congrats to 2nd, look forward to any footage. I think CV angle and what you can get away with (or not) is much more useful than 2" safe max lift or whatever, since every car is a different, especially when you add bumpers, etc. Based on what you sent me previously, plus I added my info now with your control arms (ride height, unloaded): '99 Black Outback: 9* front, 6* rear '01 Blue Forester: 15* front, 11* rear '02 White Outback: 11* front, 4* rear '07 WRX: 10* front, 5* rear No idea what stock height CV angle is? Worth noting my 20k mile front '600hp' CV exploded after driving around town, soon after installing the new control arms (which are slightly forward and wider vs. stock), so that might go to show I am on the very edge of what they can handle up front (stock rear seems totally unstressed). K
  22. Critters and carnage! Any video or pics of the race? Seems the cotter pins held. I put anti-seize on the 'frame' bolts when I installed my Frana control arms, but you might need loctite? Heck, maybe I should have used some? Bigger tires, better sidewalls, and more travel would go a long way for racing, but what you have is already perfect for trail riding. Those LP9 lights are $500/e, I hope they're good for that price. Based on where the center of B's wheel is in relation to the rocker, I'd say he has an additional 2" suspension lift over my 2.5" lifted Impreza. That's a whole lot of lift without a drive train drop. K
  23. Nice looking wagon. I don't think you will be able to find a 14" tire at stock height that isn't a passenger snow tire. What size depends on offset and availability, but either way there is not much room in those wheel wells. K