WhtMke

The plugs I took out were completely toast. They had Autolite sparkplugs in the car. I replaced them with NGK plugs. Checked the Gap and all that before I put them in. Also did NGK plugs wires. Checked all the connections and made sure they snapped onto the plugs completely. Went to replace the crankshaft position sensor today, and the sensor broke into two pieces. Now I have half the sensor in the block. I'm going to try and put a lag screw into the top of what's left of the sensor and see if I can yank it out somehow. If not, I think my only other option is to pull the timing cover off and try to access it from that side. Just wish it was warmer outside. I'm doing this in my driveway and I live in the Northeast. Man winter sucks. If it was summer I wouldn't mind being outside doing this. Lol

Update. I didn't wait till the morning to see if I was getting fuel. I pulled the hose off the filter and turned the key and she started putting fuel into the bottle I had the hose into.

I have a 99 Legacy. 2.2L, auto. Car has been driving fine ever since I got it last September. On Tuesday I replaced the plugs and wires. Whoever owned her before me was running Autolite sparkplugs. So I got the NGK plugs and NGK wires. Drove the car all day today with no problems starting and driving. Till the wife and I went to get dinner and I left the car running while I ran into the restaurant. While I was in waiting for my food the car stalled out. My wife restarted the car, and she fired back up like normal. Drove back home with no problems. Went to leave later in the evening and was warming the car up when she stalled out again. Except this time she won't start back up again. I checked the timing belt, belts,both were good. Checked for spark at the coil, had spark. Then tested the battery, battery was good. Only thing I didn't test was for fuel. Was going to pull the hose off the filter tomorrow and try to start her to see if I was getting fuel. I don't smell any fuel in the car. Let her sit again for 4 hours while I had to do some errands. When I got back I went to see if she would start. Still no start, but she did do a small backfire. This is what I've replaced over the last couple months. New battery, used alt from the junkyard, sparkplugs and wires (plugs and wires done two days ago). Other then that it's only been brakes, wheel bearing and hub, CV shaft, front strut assembly's. The check engine light has been on since I got her. Brings up two codes for the O2 sensor. One for bank 1 and one for bank 2. If anyone can help me, it will be greatly appreciated. She is my only set of wheels at the moment, and I live a little ways away from town. Maine is 75% woods. Lol. Thanks again.

I'm looking to buy an 05 Baja in the next week or so. Was wondering if anyone can give me some insight as to what I should look for and known problems to look for when I go to look at her. Here is a little bit of info I've gotten about the car. 2005 Baja, 185,000, 2.5L, auto, had timing belt and all components done, water pump and head gasket done. Front pads and wheel bearing and exhaust from the cat back. He said it needs tires. And comes with a bed extension. He wants $3000 or best offer. One question I do have, does the rear window go down on the Baja's? That would be kinda cool in the summer time. Moon roof open, rear window down. Thanks once again for all of your help. You guys have helped me along the way as I work on the 99 Legacy (aka, Ruby). She has been the best $300 I spent all of 2017. She just turned 120,000 as of 01/17/2018.

I had the alternator tested and they said it was good but the battery was weak. The starter is new as of September of this year. I can get a new battery for $50 bucks, but it’s a group 35 and CCA is 430. I just need something to last till March, that will start the car when it’s cold out. I live in the northeast and it’s been -10 the past 3 days. In March I have plans for my son and I to rebuild the 2.2L I have in the shed so I can give him this car and I can start driving my Baja again once the body work is done from hitting a deer.

If the CCA is to low, will it make my lights go dim when I hit the brake pedal? Or when I turn the heat on?

https://imageshack.com/i/pnbYKVJaj Picture of the tag on the battery in the car now.

As far as the age of the battery. I have no clue. It looks like it was around when dinosaurs walked on earth.

She has 117,000 miles. She wouldn't start when I went to buy her in September, so I went and got a Bosch starter (part # SR176X) to make sure the motor turned over. And to check if there was any other problems I might need to fix right off, cause she was only a $300 car. She has always started real easy till it became really cold out. Doesn't do the clicking sound your talking about. Just sluggish to turn over to start on the fist start of the day. After she starts and warms up, she will turn over real easy for the rest of the day. I have noticed since this started that when I hit the brakes as night, that the lights will dim for a second. So I did have the alternator tested and they said it was fine,but my battery was low on juice. Apon looking around, I've found two different cold cranking amps for the car. Either 490 or 430. That was through the Bosch website. But at Advanced Auto, they say that OEM, it has a group 35, 500 cca battery. But also said I could use a group 26R, 540 cca battery. This is were my confusion comes in. I really just need a good battery to last me till mid February, beginning of March, till taxes come in and my son and I can start rebuilding the other motor I have for her in the shed. The body on her is in mint shape and my plan is to rebuild the other motor and give the car to my son for his first car after we do the little bit of work that needs to be done. And I get the body work done on my 2005 Baja. I hit a dear in August with the Baja and bought Ruby to drive till I have my other Subbie back on the road. Hope this info helps. If you need anymore information, let me know. And thanks for the reply. This site as helped me in a major way.

I have a 99 Legacy Wagon with a 2.2L. Due to the really cold weather, (-10) my Ruby has been having a hard time starting in the morning. Did find out it’s a group 35. But a couple different cca options. Could someone enlighten me as to what the cca should be for cold weather conditions. Thanks in advance lady’s and gentlemen. You all make this the best forum on the web.

My 99 Legacy 2.2L gets bad mpg. Was wondering what would be the best to start replacing first that might give me the best bang for my buck. Spark plugs, fuel filter, things like that. Thanks for the info and help.

I just did a brake bleed on Monday. I made a one man brake bleeder out of a water bottle and some clear hose. I started at the right rear. Went to left rear. To right front. To left front. I had a helper. So I was able to see the fluid at the bleeder to make sure it was coming out clear and no air bubbles. Just make sure the master cylinder doesn't go dry. Hope this helps.

One morning with one heck of a hangover. My best friend and I decided we wanted breakfast. On the way there the throttle cable broke. We used mechanics wire for a cable. Pulled it through the firewall. Hooked it up to what was left to the old cable under the hood. I riding shotgun would pull the wire while he shifted gears.

So every time over the past two weeks when I go to put fuel in Ruby. It shuts the pump off after only putting in 1.50. If I hold the nozzle and go slow she takes fuel fine. But I can't lock the nozzle wide open or it shuts off. Anyone else have this problem? Thanks guys.

I'm sure that was the case with that rotor. I just said the heck with and a replaced the wheel bearing, hub, caliper w/bracket, pads, rotors, bolts and other hardware. Plus flushed the brake system. Figured I'd replace everything while I was in there and found more hack work someone else did. The day I went to look at Ruby, it was raining like a bi#*h. And to be honest, I was more concerned with rust on the undercarriage and body more than anything.(I can do more mechanical work then body work). I can't complain. I only paid $300 for her. She only has 110,500ish miles. she has a valid Maine State Inspection. I've had her for two months and have done rear strut assembly's, front pads, rotors, calipers, hubs, wheel bearings. I've got about $300 worth of parts on her as of now. And still have more to do, plus some things I want to upgrade.