WhtMke

The plugs I took out were completely toast. They had Autolite sparkplugs in the car. I replaced them with NGK plugs. Checked the Gap and all that before I put them in. Also did NGK plugs wires. Checked all the connections and made sure they snapped onto the plugs completely. Went to replace the crankshaft position sensor today, and the sensor broke into two pieces. Now I have half the sensor in the block. I'm going to try and put a lag screw into the top of what's left of the sensor and see if I can yank it out somehow. If not, I think my only other option is to pull the timing cover off and try to access it from that side. Just wish it was warmer outside. I'm doing this in my driveway and I live in the Northeast. Man winter sucks. If it was summer I wouldn't mind being outside doing this. Lol

Update. I didn't wait till the morning to see if I was getting fuel. I pulled the hose off the filter and turned the key and she started putting fuel into the bottle I had the hose into.

I have a 99 Legacy. 2.2L, auto. Car has been driving fine ever since I got it last September. On Tuesday I replaced the plugs and wires. Whoever owned her before me was running Autolite sparkplugs. So I got the NGK plugs and NGK wires. Drove the car all day today with no problems starting and driving. Till the wife and I went to get dinner and I left the car running while I ran into the restaurant. While I was in waiting for my food the car stalled out. My wife restarted the car, and she fired back up like normal. Drove back home with no problems. Went to leave later in the evening and was warming the car up when she stalled out again. Except this time she won't start back up again. I checked the timing belt, belts,both were good. Checked for spark at the coil, had spark. Then tested the battery, battery was good. Only thing I didn't test was for fuel. Was going to pull the hose off the filter tomorrow and try to start her to see if I was getting fuel. I don't smell any fuel in the car. Let her sit again for 4 hours while I had to do some errands. When I got back I went to see if she would start. Still no start, but she did do a small backfire. This is what I've replaced over the last couple months. New battery, used alt from the junkyard, sparkplugs and wires (plugs and wires done two days ago). Other then that it's only been brakes, wheel bearing and hub, CV shaft, front strut assembly's. The check engine light has been on since I got her. Brings up two codes for the O2 sensor. One for bank 1 and one for bank 2. If anyone can help me, it will be greatly appreciated. She is my only set of wheels at the moment, and I live a little ways away from town. Maine is 75% woods. Lol. Thanks again.

I'm looking to buy an 05 Baja in the next week or so. Was wondering if anyone can give me some insight as to what I should look for and known problems to look for when I go to look at her. Here is a little bit of info I've gotten about the car. 2005 Baja, 185,000, 2.5L, auto, had timing belt and all components done, water pump and head gasket done. Front pads and wheel bearing and exhaust from the cat back. He said it needs tires. And comes with a bed extension. He wants $3000 or best offer. One question I do have, does the rear window go down on the Baja's? That would be kinda cool in the summer time. Moon roof open, rear window down. Thanks once again for all of your help. You guys have helped me along the way as I work on the 99 Legacy (aka, Ruby). She has been the best $300 I spent all of 2017. She just turned 120,000 as of 01/17/2018.

I had the alternator tested and they said it was good but the battery was weak. The starter is new as of September of this year. I can get a new battery for $50 bucks, but it’s a group 35 and CCA is 430. I just need something to last till March, that will start the car when it’s cold out. I live in the northeast and it’s been -10 the past 3 days. In March I have plans for my son and I to rebuild the 2.2L I have in the shed so I can give him this car and I can start driving my Baja again once the body work is done from hitting a deer.

If the CCA is to low, will it make my lights go dim when I hit the brake pedal? Or when I turn the heat on?

https://imageshack.com/i/pnbYKVJaj Picture of the tag on the battery in the car now.

As far as the age of the battery. I have no clue. It looks like it was around when dinosaurs walked on earth.

She has 117,000 miles. She wouldn't start when I went to buy her in September, so I went and got a Bosch starter (part # SR176X) to make sure the motor turned over. And to check if there was any other problems I might need to fix right off, cause she was only a $300 car. She has always started real easy till it became really cold out. Doesn't do the clicking sound your talking about. Just sluggish to turn over to start on the fist start of the day. After she starts and warms up, she will turn over real easy for the rest of the day. I have noticed since this started that when I hit the brakes as night, that the lights will dim for a second. So I did have the alternator tested and they said it was fine,but my battery was low on juice. Apon looking around, I've found two different cold cranking amps for the car. Either 490 or 430. That was through the Bosch website. But at Advanced Auto, they say that OEM, it has a group 35, 500 cca battery. But also said I could use a group 26R, 540 cca battery. This is were my confusion comes in. I really just need a good battery to last me till mid February, beginning of March, till taxes come in and my son and I can start rebuilding the other motor I have for her in the shed. The body on her is in mint shape and my plan is to rebuild the other motor and give the car to my son for his first car after we do the little bit of work that needs to be done. And I get the body work done on my 2005 Baja. I hit a dear in August with the Baja and bought Ruby to drive till I have my other Subbie back on the road. Hope this info helps. If you need anymore information, let me know. And thanks for the reply. This site as helped me in a major way.

I have a 99 Legacy Wagon with a 2.2L. Due to the really cold weather, (-10) my Ruby has been having a hard time starting in the morning. Did find out it’s a group 35. But a couple different cca options. Could someone enlighten me as to what the cca should be for cold weather conditions. Thanks in advance lady’s and gentlemen. You all make this the best forum on the web.

My 99 Legacy 2.2L gets bad mpg. Was wondering what would be the best to start replacing first that might give me the best bang for my buck. Spark plugs, fuel filter, things like that. Thanks for the info and help.

I just did a brake bleed on Monday. I made a one man brake bleeder out of a water bottle and some clear hose. I started at the right rear. Went to left rear. To right front. To left front. I had a helper. So I was able to see the fluid at the bleeder to make sure it was coming out clear and no air bubbles. Just make sure the master cylinder doesn't go dry. Hope this helps.

One morning with one heck of a hangover. My best friend and I decided we wanted breakfast. On the way there the throttle cable broke. We used mechanics wire for a cable. Pulled it through the firewall. Hooked it up to what was left to the old cable under the hood. I riding shotgun would pull the wire while he shifted gears.

So every time over the past two weeks when I go to put fuel in Ruby. It shuts the pump off after only putting in 1.50. If I hold the nozzle and go slow she takes fuel fine. But I can't lock the nozzle wide open or it shuts off. Anyone else have this problem? Thanks guys.

I'm sure that was the case with that rotor. I just said the heck with and a replaced the wheel bearing, hub, caliper w/bracket, pads, rotors, bolts and other hardware. Plus flushed the brake system. Figured I'd replace everything while I was in there and found more hack work someone else did. The day I went to look at Ruby, it was raining like a bi#*h. And to be honest, I was more concerned with rust on the undercarriage and body more than anything.(I can do more mechanical work then body work). I can't complain. I only paid $300 for her. She only has 110,500ish miles. she has a valid Maine State Inspection. I've had her for two months and have done rear strut assembly's, front pads, rotors, calipers, hubs, wheel bearings. I've got about $300 worth of parts on her as of now. And still have more to do, plus some things I want to upgrade.

As I did the brakes on my Ruby. Pads, rotors and calipers. Plus all new bolts. (Mind you, the guy who sold her to me said they did brakes all around.) Well he only did a pad slap cause the caliper bracket bolts were stripped and one what broken. Had to cut the bolt that was left and hammer the bracket with the rotor off as one assembly. Word of advice, never take anyone's word when it come to buying a used car on the side of the road. I'm glad I came along to save this girl from the hard life she had.

Mine isn't that rusted out yet. Lol. But it's very rusty. The underneath of her is almost rust free. Just everything bolted to her is rusted. Looks like everything is still stock. She only has 110,500ish miles. Not bad for a car that's 18 years old.

I would just like a little more braking power. With no ABS, and after doing pads, rotors and calipers in the front. New drums, shoes and hardware for the rear. Plus a new brake booster. The brake pedal still has a spongy feeling. And where we live has allot of hills. To me it's seems to be an easy upgrade that I could do with my son. And hopefully get my brakes to where I like them to be.

I had the same code on my 99 Legacy. I replaced the neutral safety switch and cleared the codes and it never came back on.

Hey guys and girls. Here is what I'm hoping will be my next project for the best $300 bucks I've spent all year. Yes, I only spent that much for this amazing car. Sad part is I have to fix all the hack jobs people have done to Ruby throughout the years. I have a 99 Legacy WG (U.S. spec BK model). Base model as they come. No power windows, locks, cruise control, no ABS. 2.2L, auto trans. I want to trash the rear drum brakes to disk. It started it's life with 14" wheels and tires, but I swapped them out for a set of OEM 16" wheels and tires. Do they make an aftermarket kit with all the parts I need? Or should I spend the time at the junkyard and pull the parts I need and get new pads, rotors and calipers? If I go the junkyard way. What year and model should I pull the parts from. I'm sure someone else has posted this question before. And I know someone will say to just Google it. But Google doesn't know half as much as someone with hands on experience. Thank you in advance to everyone for the help you all have given me.

I ended up replacing both of the rears. Found some almost new ones on a donor car. Guy had them on the car long enough to do a 50 lap endro race. Wish he had rear disk brakes too. I did a check online to see if my Ruby had any open recalls. But she came back clean. Maybe I should call the dealer to double-check. I like free warranty work. Lol.

The pics are what's left to a right rear strut assembly. It was on my 99 Legacy. Was curious if anyone else has had this problem. I've never seen this in my 20 years in the automotive industry.

Thanks. I can get a new bracket for $10. And the yard said they would give me the bolts that came with it. I'm just going to cut the head on the bottom bolt and hammer them out with the bracket and rotor together. The caliper was replaced a week before I bought the car. Whoever did the job overlooked that the rotors was no good or the pads.

Yesterday I went to do front pads, rotors and calipers on my 99 Legacy L Wagon. Aka Ruby. Driver's side went off without any problems. Went to do the passenger side and the caliper bracket bolts are so rusted that who ever tried to do them before rounded them off. And the top bolt was broken. Was wondering if the knuckle is threaded or are the threads just in the bracket? Was thinking of just cutting the bottom bolt and getting a used bracket from the junk yard and new bolts from the dealership. If anyone has had this problem and has some insight, please let me know how you fixed it. Thanks in advance everyone.

Hello everyone. Meet Ruby. My $300 gem that loves my attention. She's a 1999 Legacy L. Base and raw as they come. No pw,pl, cruise control, abs. Just 2.2L's and AWD happiness. She is not my first Subaru. More like my 3rd. But she is fun. Her lines and big back side. Everyone needs a friend like Ruby. We hang out every day, she don't complain or question me. Just as long as I get her new parts every two weeks. She's content. Lol. Hope to enjoy this site as I continue to fix what someone else did to Ruby.