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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/21/18 in Posts

  1. 5 points
    Good to know the EJs are not going anywhere. Why EA? in no particular order, and not complete... Now that I have passed the 25 year mark, I will not deal with another car newer than 25 years old, just to avoid emissions hassles. For whatever reason, I just always have those crop up when I am already crazy busy. SO done with that. I never had an older / original Legacy, but we did have an 01 Forester for my wife. I could out maneuver it with my EA wagons, and all the newer versions are even bigger. Ok, didn't have to do the timing belts as often, but the DIY cost was nearly 5 times higher. Both of us can tell where the EA is on the road & parking a lot better than with the newer rounded cars. I can get bigger things into the back of my EA wagon than any of the newer models I've checked. Not by a lot, but a few items, it mattered. Do not want AWD forcing me to always run 4 identically worn tires. Bigger tires are more $ also, so not interested. I've also added lighting to my wife's Foresters, and now Impreza. [We replaced her 09Forester with an 09 Impreza recently, as she could not get used to the bigger rounder shape. Horrible time parking, etc.] What a PITA! all the wiring is hidden, even under the hood. Even though I am an electronics engineer [or maybe because I am one...] I don't want MORE computers to maintain and deal with in my vehicles. One for the ECU is ok, but that's enough. I don't drive tons of miles a year. I know the EA and have acquired or made all the tools I need to do nearly everything with them. Don't need to start over. It's now also just one of my hobby things - see how long I can keep running them. Because I can.
  2. 4 points
    Hi everyone! i'm a locksmith in NY and an older Subaru enthusiast, i've had 2 Loyales, a 91 and 92, in the past and a 98 Impreza (unfortunately none now, but i'll be back!). anyway, enough about me...i'm seeing if anyone needs keys made for their locks? or needs their locks rekeyed to match ignition or whatever...i know a lot of you probably have different keys for door/ignition/trunk/glovebox etc. after replacing broken parts. if you're sick of that, let me know. if you mail me a lock, i can rekey it to a specific key. you can send either door or ignition locks and a key that you want to work in that lock, and i will set it up for you and send it back. probably for about $35 including shipping. if it requires more, i will let you know ahead of time and give you the option to just send it back without working on it for free. i can also do the same for most other locks, not just Subaru. Glovebox locks will require another lock if you want them to match. the glovebox only has 4 tumblers in it. the other locks have 8 or 10, depending on year and model, so i can't make a working key for your other locks based on the glovebox. you can also send a lock that you don't have keys for, and i will make you a key and send it back. that will probably run about $25-35. turnaround is usually within 1 day after i receive it. just get in touch and we'll figure it out. i'll let you know what you need to send. Paypal, Money orders, Zelle, even checks are ok (but you will have to wait until the check clears) ADMINS: if this is in the wrong section, please feel free to move it or whatever needs doing
  3. 3 points
    Use an impact. GD
  4. 3 points
    Here’s the 95 impreza. Lifted on a kit built by yours truly on 30 x9.50’s eg33 5sp ej dual range and rear lsd just a fun toy of mine.
  5. 3 points
    I have an 86 GL they are great cars. Mine has a 2" lift that i am thinking of taking off. For the mild off roading i do, the factory ride height has plenty of clearance. It's just a cheap homemade lift with spacers on the shock towers and an aluminum block between the body and subframe. You will need a slip joint to extend the steering shaft. I can take pics if you want to make your own lift. I have only seen a lift from just springs on first gen legacys using outback springs. I might sell the lift, but i am busy with my camaro at the moment. I had a set of 15" six lug chevy wheels drilled for 4x140 but i sold them, i like the factory 8 spokes. Expect 35+ mpg hiway with 15s, you essentially add another gear at speed. I got 40 mpg. As far as upgrading your engine, i understand that a weber carb is the way to go, i took the ea82 out and put in a ej22 a while back. Maybe your carb needs a good cleaning and rebuild kit, and perhaps different size jets. If you eliminate vaccum leaks as a reason. It took me a day working slowly to rebuild a rochester monojet carb, and i needed a size smaller jet because of altitude, but my camaro wouldn't rev. Idled fine and revved with no load on the engine. I think the Hitachi carbs have two jets. But try this because it's easy, take the air cleaner off and start the engine. Open the throttle to the point where she starts to struggle. Have a can of brake or carb cleaner and give her a little spray and see if she runs better. You can also use your hand or towel to mess with the throttle and cover the air horn. If it gets better, you might be running lean or have some fuel issue, but at least you can eliminate plug wires with this. It might give you a clue, maybe the fuel filter just needs changing (it's under the car near the pump) Happy wrenching! What is your cars name? Mine is the baby lion. Your girlfriend might be a keeper for saying no to selling the subaru! If you are ever in Denver, help me take this lift off and you can have it :-)
  6. 3 points
    Hello USMB family! It's Gloyale now FerGloyale After trying and tryting since hte site change, I was unable to recover my old account here. Don't have that ol' Earthlink or Charter or whatever the heck it was in 2004 ISP based email anymore! So I am back. Rocking some new subies in the stable, as well as the old favorites. I may not be as active as I once was on here......but likely I will be around quite a bit. If you are someone who I had PMs about getting parts from me please contact me, as I have lost all of those communications and contacts. Good to be back. Regards, FerGloyale
  7. 3 points
    old name was Combination of GL and Loyale cause those were the cars I was rocking. Now I don't have any ea82 cars (except my XTs) My regular daily is my metallic green Forester, named Fergie. So FerGloyale
  8. 3 points
    I feel ya. That's why I'm rocking 80's GM technology. Simple, reliable, and I can get parts easily. I have a bluetooth adapter and an android app for my 86 Trans Am. Just the one computer for the TPI injection. GD
  9. 3 points
    @GeneralDisorder the body style of the EA82 is so much better than the bubbled out legacy or forester. Loyale, GL, DL, are all much better looking IMO. I'd do an EJ swap just to keep the EA body.
  10. 3 points
    Hey everyone just wanted to post this here incase anyone else has this issue. I didn't see anything come up in my searches and figured it would be good if the process was documented....OEM part numbers and all. I'll keep it quick. Got my 88 GL Dual Range about 2 years ago now. Reverse lights have never worked and besides being dangerous it just bothered me. I finally figured it out! ****** PICTURES ARE LINKED FOR REFERENCE On the rear case of the transmission, about 7" in from the shifter rod, on the drivers side you'll find the Back Lamp Assembly. Looks like a bolt with 2 wires coming out of the side. This can be removed with a 19mm wrench. It's a bit tricky to get to the plug, you have to un-do two metal "clamps" that hold the wires for this assembly and others. The "clamps" are located between the top of the transmission and underbody of the car. Find someone with small hands to help you haha. Anyway, this switch has a little plastic piece that gets depressed when you shift into reverse, the circuit then closes and the reverse lights come on. I think there are two reasons for my reverse light failure. 1) plastic nub on switch worn and cannot produce a closed circuit. 2) wires were falling apart. (as you'll see below) This part can still be purchased new from the dealer (I just got on from my local Subaru Dealer) although some sites list that it is no longer in production. I paid $36 (can be got for cheeper, i've seen it for $25) Link to the schematic of the transmission is here, this one is for a turbo, which I do not have, but it's just about in the same position. Back Lamp Assembly is #5 on the diagram. Diagram > https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_1990_Loyale-WAGON-TURBO/_80160_6027483/MT--REAR-CASE/A11-120-01.html Can Purchase Here > https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/SWITCH-ASSEMBLY-BACK-LAMP/49242840/32005AA030.html It's interesting that this switch functions similarly to the Neutral Safety Switch. Actually they are just about identical (besides the plug ends)....makes me wonder if they can be interchanged....I did a bit of cross referencing and it looks like newer manual Subarus also have both of these switches, so if these part numbers go bad we might be able to pull from newer models. Images are from my old Back Lamp Assembly....as you can see it's toast.....
  11. 2 points
    Do you feel it in the driver's seat bottom when you first brake? If so it's the rear brake rotors. I've had a couple Subaru's do this. Hard to track down unless you know about it. s do this.
  12. 2 points
    Nice photo.... ....of it PARKED!????? Show it doing its thing!
  13. 2 points
    90 to 95 non-EGR without changing anything. GD
  14. 2 points
    Going to put a 2.9:1 planetary before the center diff. Sketched up a half dozen different ways to do it and that seems like it will be the simplest/cheapest/best. Will add a ~3.5" long spacer to the case. I'd like to do something like that to a 5MT but there's not much space and the center diff in those is already so weak I think you'd have to replace or eliminate that too. R160 would probably be the next thing to go in a normal Subaru, I'm putting an R180 in when I install the 6MT. Of course I took pictures. We made a few while the machine was set up. Stock one on the right. Installed on the shaft.
  15. 2 points
  16. 2 points
    No - too hard to find. Probably have better luck using Faraday cages to make Forester grilles.
  17. 2 points
    Oem or Fel Pro head gaskets Oem only intake gaskets and the o rings for the oil channel to the cam towers. I have always re used the head bolts. If any were really rusty, swapped them for better ones from a spare engine. Heads must be resurfaced to remove the marks from the fire rings. Search for post apocalyptic resurfacing. New water pump and thermostat. Verify that your radiator is in top shape. Fins still attached to the tubes, etc. Other most important thing.... Idle it up to normal operating temperature. Shut down and go to work carefully loosening the intake manifold bolts and head bolts. This deep heating really lowers the chances of breaking them off or stripping the threads. Use a space heater and heat gun to reheat it or keep it hot until you get to the head bolts. Work them back and forth gradually if any are sticky. If you are careful, you can feel the difference between springy and yeilding.
  18. 2 points
    Merry Christmas back at ya! Hope everyone has a safe and happy Holiday Season, regardless of what holiday you celebrate.
  19. 2 points
    To late now, but for future installs you can buy an adapter harness so the stock plug remains for others down the road. Load (Radio) Power -12 VDC constant-memory functions, switched to power the unit and ground. 3 elements necessary in any circuit. I'm sure you know that already but added it for others.
  20. 2 points
    Going to be a very long time before EJ parts go NLA. You can buy an oil pump for a 2019 STI and bolt it onto a 1990 EJ22. Just for example. You have 30 years of compatible parts. Compared to 10 on the EA82, and only 5 on the EA81. And the swap is not that hard. Not even nearly "a ton of work". With the swap parts commercially available now like adapter plates, etc. It's actually rather easy. The *why* is the question. Just buy a car that already has it like a Legacy or Forester. They do literally everything better and easier. I don't understand how people even stand driving the EA's. I drive the wife's 2001 OBW and am honestly terrified half the time I'm going to get run over in it. I guess I'm just spoiled by 1980's Chevy Small Block performance . GD
  21. 2 points
    Absolutely. Even with ripped boots I’ve put 100,000 miles on rears and 50,000 miles on fronts with ripped boots and no issues and no clicking. No big deal. If you have ripped boots and drive in sand, off-road, or aggressive stone/aggregate abrasives used for winter treatments - they’ll literally start clicking on day one. Been there done that multiple times. So yes - extrapolate that out to everything in between. It depends how badly the grease is compromised and how much actual abrasives are introduced which depends on the local roads and winter treatments.
  22. 2 points
    Directly opposite the lobe. You always measure lash at the lowest point on the cam which is 180 degrees away from max lift. GD
  23. 2 points
    I would definitely order the front tophats to have on hand at least .. those are the ones that have the bearing in them for steering. and KYB for the win there Rears don't typically have many issues. springs, boots, and other stuff, unless in really bad shape, just swap over to the new struts.
  24. 2 points
    I knew it was only a matter of time before it ended up on you tube lol Thank you
  25. 2 points
    Have you looked into a title service? While you *can* swap vin's, you will still have the stamped vin on the firewall. I have not had to use a title service, but from what I have read, they title/register the car in a state that has low requirements for older cars, then you simply transfer the registration from state A to your state. Maybe a couple hundred and your legit. Oh, I think tachs were standard on GL trim. Mark
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