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  1. 6 points
    This was his last Facebook post on his personal page, from May 16th. Dear Friends, I don't know what is happening to the world, but there is something very Wrong, hiding underneath. I always believed that we come to this life with a heart, that is an empty Bag, which we should fill with precious moments, and wonderful memories; those are the only things that you will take with you, forever, even maybe to the other life; while everything else, material things, will never fill the emptiness of the bag on your heart. Trying to fill your heart's bag with material things, will only left you even more emtpy, not only on the spiritual plane... People seems to never realise that every day that they live, is a day less in their count of life; but it could be a day More, fulfilled with awesome memories, in their hearts. People forget that their little children will not be playing alone in that corner of your house, forever; waiting for you to finish seeing all your "friends" updates on social media, prior to dedicate a couple of minutes to play, before falling asleep. Believe me, social media is absurd and fake in many different ways; in real life no body cares if you ate bacon with honey in your pankakes for breakfast; but fake people will "Like" your empty and useless breakfast photo, like if they care; and so on... millions of people wasting time in a world full of hypocrisy. Not only time, but sometimes people also waste efforts, paying for travels, cars, etc, that really never wanted nor needed them, only to have the chance of taking the stupid "selfie" photo in order to gaining more "likes", they are living their lives like if they're in a high school's popularity contest; meanwhile what they really are "gaining" is only Emptiness, and the need to do a harder effort to pay for those unneeded "luxuries" to the system, that enslaves them more, and even more... Meanwhile, the little children grows, with an empty bag in their hearts, empty from the lack of precious moments, then they becomes men and women that goes from home, to start their own homes, leaving you even more empty... One day you might realize that you are really tired from being part of the system and being absorbed by social fakeness; and you might want to bow down and play with that little child that spent the childhood, alone, in a corner of your house, waiting for you to play; but you'll notice that nobody is there, and you are even more alone. Nothing worse than wasting such times. And sometimes parents fool themselves, sharing lots of photos from their children in different places, as if they really are playing or being with them; but they go from a place or another for the photos only; to display them in social media, but they have an empty background. Nothing is better in life than the Family; remember that your Wife / Husband \ Children, really needs you, and the best you can give to them, is the best part of your time, as long as you can; never give begrudgingly leftovers from your time, to them. I suggest you to try to fill your Heart bag with precious moments. The car, the money, The house, the job, the gym, the club, etc; everything will stay in earth. If you die, others will continue using them; the world continues and the other people, really don't care about you; only your mere family, if you dedicate quality time to them. You will reap what you sow. Every average day, can be turned onto two different things: it could be a hell, if you continue with selfish customs and being chained to the System, fighting for no real reason; or also the same day can be turned into an Awesome happy day, where all the family is surprised with a Pijama Party, a Family movie together, or simply by a dad or mom that decided to throw away the cell phone, shutting it off, to turn their lives on; and bow down to play with their children, or listening and paying attention to your spouse. You can make an average day, to be a Special day, every day, if you want to. Remember, Kids never care about the features of the car you drive; kids will remember if they went together with their parents in that car, to a nice sunny camp day on the mountains, or wherever their parents decided to go; those memories really fills the hearts of all the family and last forever, because the time that families spend together, is a priceless treasure for their hearts. I kindly suggest you to see less TV, less social media, drink less alcoholic beverages, smoke less; to avoid wasting your precious time and resources in empty things; and fill the hearts of every member of your family, with your presence, your warm heart, the things that you do together; you know... with spiritual things. Material things will never fill your immaterial soul. Sorry for this long letter, but I wanted to explain the reason why I am not visiting often my Facebook, nor the automotive web forums I used to... somehow I noticed that my daughter was growing too fast, and I decided to shut off my "Virtual Life" online, as much as I could; in order to spend all the quality time I can, with my Daughter, my wife, and the rest of my family. Still, I will check here from time to time. Sorry for any delays in answering. Kind Regards and Blessings. JesZeK (Loyale 2.7 Turbo)
  2. 6 points
    Thank you all you great guys out here on USMB - I couldn't have done it right with out you - probably would have messed it up. I wasn't ticking too bad, but now ZERO - and super quite overall! Also did water pump, hoses and seal on metal pipe that goes into pump. Sealed up some cracks in my air intake snorkel with RTV, fixed anything I found along the way and now it's super quite and smooth. No "bubbles and water fall" sounds coming out of coolant system. No scary stuff with the temperature almost going into danger before thermostat opens. Im pretty sure the last couple of days before the belt broke it had lost at least a tooth and jumped a tooth cause it was feeling out of balance when idling - that's the main reason I kind of why I thought it might be a waste doing this job - and I REALLY didn't want to tear it all the way down, I would have sold it or junked it. It really feels like I have a brand new rebuilt motor! To me it's amazing there is such a difference. AND NO OIL DRIPPING (yet) all over the bottom of the timing belts, which would spread into the exhaust pipe and start burning & smoking if on the freeway very long! It's almost like a dream... Thanks again
  3. 5 points
    OEM Subaru clutch and throttle cables.
  4. 5 points
    I see value in GDs comments. He had the Loyale/GL platform at one time and he decided to move away from it for the reasons he states. His reasons are valid. But they are equally valid reasons to not buy and maintain any old machine. With a car that ceased production in 1994 the lack of specific parts may be a good reason to stay away. But, as to the value, the market is the market. It seems like many of these are coming in under $1,000 but ones that are not rotten and seem to have been well maintained are going for higher prices. Some people are sticking with this GL/Loyale and keeping them running. I liked driving the one I did. My sense from talking with the owner was that he was able to find parts when he needed them or make due with substitutes. There are many aspects of the simplicity of the GL/Loyale that appeals to me. I do need to admit that I fly a 1946 Piper J-3. Low power, slow, uncomfortable, etc. Sometimes tricky to find parts for and maintain. Sometimes when flying about 1000 ft AGL I fly along a freeway so the movement of my shadow can be compared to the speed of the traffic. I need a tailwind to move faster then the cars. So why maintain and fly this plane? In the past I have owned a 59 MGA, a 64 Porsche, a 65 Beetle and a 64 Corvair and a 73 Austin Mini. I rode a Yamaha XS650. All quirky rides. My daily drive today is a Toyota. There are members on the forum who like the GL/Loyale and are driving and maintaining them.
  5. 5 points
    Tone ring... that's what that's called? Yes, the screws came threw the spindle into the ring. There is no way to rebuild it. It's too beat up. I'll be pulling the assembly from another car. I'll do a complete brake job on this before it's done. The car is going to a lady I know who lives on Social security, and has trouble walking. This ride will give independence and make doctor appointment much easier. So ya, good brakes equals piece of mind. As for the previous owner, I can't say anything bad. He's a nice guy overall. Just a bit clueless. While marijuana is legal in Washington, it doesn't mean everybody should partake.
  6. 5 points
    Old lug nut, fender washer, and some grease is the easiest DIY way. Or pull the hub off and hammer it in with a socket supporting the hub on the threaded side. GD
  7. 5 points
    I talked to the guy that I see all the time at the local burger joint who has a Subaru. Right off the bat he gave me the name of a guy who works on Subarus (who was also recommended by a local garage that has a good reputation). I found this man (he has a junkyard/body shop) and he has 4 Subs (that I saw) in various stages of repair at the moment. It was raining on us and I was on my way home from the vet with my cat, so I didn't talk to him long, but he sounds like Montana Tom upthread. He had a beautiful silver OB in the repair bay he's asking 3500 for right now - so assuming he can keep Subs in stock, I should be good to go once I have the money saved up. My neighbors had bought a fixed up non-Subaru from this guy and it's been a jewel of a car - I have to borrow it sometimes when my#$^*% truck tears up. I had been peeking at this guy's place when I would drive by, but I didn't see any Subies on his lot. Thank you all for the push to go up to people and ask...who knew I'd find someone this close by and so easily? Of course I will carefully check over any car he has for sale...but I have faith in the 'hillbilly grapevine" especially when it comes to the guys at the burger joint...I've been talking to them off and on for the last year or so; they strike me as the kind of fellas that would look out for a woman in need of help and not lie to me about stuff. If they say he's good, I believe them.
  8. 5 points
    So the clutch, flywheel and clutch cable were replaced after 32 years of great service. Replaced with OEM parts. Exedy clutch kit (Amazon) LUK flywheel (RockAuto) Subaru OEM clutch cable (Lithia Subaru of Oregon) I've had a Weber carb on it for years and now the clutch & shifting feel like when I drove it off the dealer's lot all those years ago. A few other things to attend to but nothing that affects how it runs.
  9. 4 points
    I probably suggest this too often: CTS - coolant temp sensor. Remember - on yours there is the single wire for the gauge and next to it is the actual sensor to the ECU....you want the latter.
  10. 4 points
    The 25D has head gasket issues for one reason only - the bore diameter caused a reduction in the thickness of the cylinder liner support walls where the HG fire ring seats on the block. Due to the thickness of the composition graphite gaskets they started with in 1996 (because of piston height above the deck at TDC) there is insufficient rigidity provided by the cylinder head to prevent the cylinders from moving around due to thermal expansion and contraction and combustion chamber pressure.This movement abrades the fire ring against the block and head leading to pitting, which ultimately leads to failure. Number of heat cycles is the primary indicator of lifespan coupled with any overheating events that add further thermal stress loading. It is easy to see this because Subaru solved the problem - you only need to look at what they did to effect a solution. They changed the piston to allow a thinner head gasket, and they beefed up the block around the liners to make them more rigid. For turbocharged applications they incorporated liner gussets to help stop them from moving under high cylinder pressure and temperature. Also the open deck 1.8 and 2.2 engines do not have this problem despite having the same thickness HG as the earl 25D. Why? Because the cylinder liner support walls are WAY thicker due to smaller bore size. The engineers that designed the EJ never envisioned a 2.5 liter displacement when they modeled in on early computer systems in the mid 1980's. When new engineers were asked to increase the displacement they inadvertently caused a HG issue by the bore size change without considering what that would do to the rigidity of the cylinder. It was an engineering design mistake. Nothing more. Nothing you do or do not do as regards the thermostat location will have ANY effect on the HG "problem" associated with this engine. Want to solve it permanently? Resurface the block and the heads, Install 251 pistons, and use the 642 turbo head gasket. They will never blow again. GD
  11. 4 points
    Hi all; Picked up an 01 limited 5 speed to flip this week. The seller claimed new head gaskets, new oe timing set , new factory thermostat. heads sent off to machine shop. All done in Jan 18. I was shown the bill. Car ran good until may then started overheating. Would run apx 25 miles before heating up. Putting pressure into the radiator just like a 25 D engine... having never come across a cyl. leaking head gasket on a 2.5 1 I went under the assumption that I would find a cracked head. Inspection of the spark plugs after bringing it home showed #1 plug water stained. While pulling the motor I saw that indeed a new timing set was on the car, not OE but not junk. The "new" thermostat had 1/4" holes drilled into it ,no doubt by the seller hoping to fix his heating up problem. My thought at that point was a low rent machine shop swapping out heads instead of rebuilding what was brought to them. Seller claimed he had the head gaskets done because they were oil dripping & he wanted to get another 100,00 out of his car... When removing the first head I could see that factory gaskets were not used ... after head was off, the problem was glaringly apparent, total crap quality head gasket !!! I have never seen a gasket deteriorate like this one had! In only 5 months ! No name left on the gasket if it ever had one. I pulled the other head and it would have been leaking any day! No proof but I have no doubt they were china gaskets.... The seller paid almost $1800 for this work, $200 alone for head gaskets and bolts! Moral of the story... Factory original parts ! If you can not do the work yourself... find a real Subaru shop. You usually get what you pay for... sometimes you get even less. He sold me the car for $800... costly little fix by a non subaru shop for him... nice clean car for me.
  12. 4 points
    Hey guys, I got my car back. Nothing but a bent up steering column and broken plastic cover. Radio is gone and some other little items. Glad to have it back in one piece.
  13. 4 points
    Skip NO steps. Regardless of bolt newness. Repeat each of the ft/lb torque sequences till they do not turn any further. If that takes three times or 50 times - once you run through the sequence and they no longer turn you can move on. Obviously this does not apply to the angle torque values. If you get creaking (stick-slip), STOP and take it apart. Yes chase the threads with an old bolt. And then you need to lube them with Amsoil Engine Assembly Lube. Lube the bolt threads of one bolt, run it in and out of each hole with the head off a couple times - relubing between each. Apply assembly lube LIBERALLY to each bolt and between the bolt head and top of the washer (not between the washer and the head). Make sure you use the small washer bolts in the corners and the big washer bolts in the center. You must use something like the Amsoil lube. Regular engine oil won't handle the load and will creak. Once you achieve ZERO creaking you are doing it right. Creaking means false torque readings and in all likelyhood insufficient clamping. My point was your machinist is a hack. I bought an Ra meter (used) for about $350. It's a neat little tool and a proper machine shop would own one (maybe several) in order to ensure they achieve proper specified surface roughness for any given application. This doesn't only apply to cylinder heads - lots of things need to have specific surface qualities. GD
  14. 4 points
    Yes it sounds like you are well equipped to deal with these then. I am mostly cautioning prospective buyers of "cheap" older Subaru's that these are a poor choice for someone looking for a first car, or a daily driver, etc. They are NOT that. I know it sounds silly, but the EA82 chassis is not the one you want if you want simplicity and frustration free. You want the EA81 chassis for that. Look for a really nice 82 to 84 GL wagon, or hatch. The EA81 is a much easier engine to work on than the EA82 and to some extent has more support. No timing belts and much easier to work on. Still going to be hard to find parts but if you have the money anything can be found or made. I still maintain and drive a lifted EA81 hatchback. Contrary to what people think around here - I don't hate them. I just see the reality of the situation and that reality is these are not for most people anymore. They are for collectors, folks with lots of parts, time, and money to maintain them. I have customer that pay me to work on their EA chassis cars and the bills are OUTRAGEOUS. Because no other shops have the knowledge or know where to the get the parts anymore. Trust me - I couldn't afford to pay myself to work on these cars. GD
  15. 4 points
    The clutch friction material was completely off the steel disk attached to the hub. It looked like a bird nest in the bottom of the trans.
  16. 4 points
    Thank you to all who replied and for supplying the solution, this not-well-known info about the "virgin" switch. It was switched by one of the crew at the car wash as they fussed to wipe the muck from the dashboard. Now that I know about this feature, I feel like I've been admitted to a secret society... no longer a virgin, so to speak
  17. 4 points
    So after a lot of work, mailing in a set of torsion bars from my Brat, paying for the initial machine work and engineering design, and a 8 week turn around, I happy to announce that you can now order new torsion bars for your EA81 chassis from Swayaway here in California. They will run $325 a set and will offer you a spring rate that's 20-25% stiffer than stock without loosing any of the rotational limits the stock ones had. Actually, Swayaway claims their bars will out perform the OEM bar in every single matrix, and they're guaranteed not to sag or break. You can check out their web site at www.swayawaycom. They make very high end products. So what does this mean: Better handling, no more having to crank the torsion bars for heavier loads, no more broken torsion bars, better articulation, and a new parts option for our aging suspension. I will be receiving my set this week and will do a comprehensive comparison to place here and on FB. Once I do that and ensure fit and finish is good, Ill update this post with the PN. He made 3 sets, 1 for me, 2 for immediate purchase, and any orders after those will be made to order.
  18. 4 points
    rotate crank to open intake on cyl 1, take out spark plug, attach compressor hose, blow the plastic backwards out the the way it went in?
  19. 4 points
    I’m guest east coast guy. see you all weekend.
  20. 4 points
    Mick's web site is still active: http://www.indysworld.com/vehicles/past/1982-wagon-mtngrizz/mountaingrizzly.html Need to level up on your google-fu. GD
  21. 3 points
    Turbo models don't have head gasket problems. Never have. Those engine often go about 250k. Then they are just shot. Main line journals get too out of spec and they throw rods. GD
  22. 3 points
    as comatosellama suggested, speed dependent vibrations/shaking are most often caused by a tire out of balance, sometimes a damaged tire - Start there. As texan suggested, swapping tires from front to back for a quick, inexpensive test.. if the vibration is still present, bet less noticeable in the steering, that would suggest it IS a tire out of balance and/or damaged. get them checked If swapping the tires has no effect on the vibration/shaking, then yes, you need to dig deeper. potential issues: ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearing, CV joint (axle), maybe a frozen brake caliper.. also check struts & springs.. also take a look at the lower control arm mounting points. the rear most mount bushing tends to be a problem area
  23. 3 points
    Camber adjustment, improved Ackermann angle (if you use EJ front knuckles), 100s of front strut/spring options (rear shocks don't change with the 5-lug, but are a pretty simple design so there are options there). dozens of brake options, front and rear. Wheel/tire options. Might not seem like much, but makes a huge difference. Of course, a better torque curve (EJ engine) and real AWD help a LOT, too.
  24. 3 points
    Yes, sounds like someone drove the pin in when the half shaft was 180 out. The other option is to pop out the half shaft with the stub axle attached. It's held in with a circle clip. Remove the strut to knucle bolts and lower ball joint then use the weight of the hub as a slide hammer and the stub axle should come out.
  25. 3 points
    Well, I finally took the plunge after limping my 13" maypop baldies with belts showing along as long as I could, till one did pop. Just didn't want to buy any more 13s. So after many hours of reading about 6-lug swaps here, I decided that would be the cheapest, easiest route. The problem with most of the threads here is they are all about off-roading with lifted cars. There was very, very, little I could find about doing this swap on a stock height car with low-profile tires. What little there was had no pictures anymore because of photosucket. So I took a trip to the only pick-n-pull in the area. Really, a terrible yard, with absolutely no organization whatsoever. You have to go over the whole yard usually, just to start and see what's available. And many of the cars are so packed together, you can't even walk between them. I found one set of 15" steel Isusu 6-lugs in the offset I figured I would need. 60 bucks for the set... pretty happy about that. And they were actually going to charge me extra for the mixmatched, flat, half-bald tires that were on there (??) but they removed them for free. Now, these wheels are well made, but HEAVY!! The center flange that I had to drill was 3/8" steel and the rest of the center was a healthy 1/4". I was gonna weigh them before I got them on the car, but I was too excited to stop and do so. Really, part of me just didn't want to know. I was gonna hit up someone here to send me a front hub, maybe one with stripped splines, to use as a template, but I ended up just taking one of mine off, and bopping two of the studs out. I then made a drill bushing with a nut by first drilling out the threads with my pilot drill bit, and then, with the nut spinning on the pilot bit, I dressed down the OD with a right-angle grinder (shadetree lathe), till it just pushed inside the stud holes. Bolted the hub to the wheels, drilled the pilot through the bushing, then drilled to 1/2", Bob's your uncle. After hours of brooding over tire size, I finally settled on 205/50R15s, which are ever so slightly taller than stock, and filled out beautifully on the 7 inch rims. Wallyworld got me Hankooks for 50 bucks each, and they really look like great tires. Took hardly any weight to balance, which is a good sign for the rims and tires. Fit without issue on the front, but it gets close in a couple of spots. The rear... was going to rub the inner fender lip under compression. I've never rolled any fenders, but I remember an old hot rodder telling me about using a baseball bat to do so. I couldn't find a full-size wooden bat anywhere locally, but I did have a piece of 2" PVC electrical conduit. Started out driving the car forward with the conduit rolling between the tire and body. With a stick and a string on the loose end of the conduit, so I could guide it (would work better with 2 people). Then finished by letting the car roll back down the driveway while levering the conduit down to push the flange up. Worked great. Then, after some cleaning and Krylon, I can't stop looking at it!! Now, I have yet to try and drill a chamfer on the new holes so it will accept a traditional lug nut. For now, I just have regular nuts and lockwashers on the drilled holes, and center the wheels on the car with the factory holes. It's smooth as glass at 80 mph, so I think I can go back now and chamfer the drilled holes, as long as they are perfectly centered around the stud. Or, I could just get some flat-bottom chrome acorn nuts, and leave well enough alone.
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