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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/25/18 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    I see value in GDs comments. He had the Loyale/GL platform at one time and he decided to move away from it for the reasons he states. His reasons are valid. But they are equally valid reasons to not buy and maintain any old machine. With a car that ceased production in 1994 the lack of specific parts may be a good reason to stay away. But, as to the value, the market is the market. It seems like many of these are coming in under $1,000 but ones that are not rotten and seem to have been well maintained are going for higher prices. Some people are sticking with this GL/Loyale and keeping them running. I liked driving the one I did. My sense from talking with the owner was that he was able to find parts when he needed them or make due with substitutes. There are many aspects of the simplicity of the GL/Loyale that appeals to me. I do need to admit that I fly a 1946 Piper J-3. Low power, slow, uncomfortable, etc. Sometimes tricky to find parts for and maintain. Sometimes when flying about 1000 ft AGL I fly along a freeway so the movement of my shadow can be compared to the speed of the traffic. I need a tailwind to move faster then the cars. So why maintain and fly this plane? In the past I have owned a 59 MGA, a 64 Porsche, a 65 Beetle and a 64 Corvair and a 73 Austin Mini. I rode a Yamaha XS650. All quirky rides. My daily drive today is a Toyota. There are members on the forum who like the GL/Loyale and are driving and maintaining them.
  2. 5 points
    Tone ring... that's what that's called? Yes, the screws came threw the spindle into the ring. There is no way to rebuild it. It's too beat up. I'll be pulling the assembly from another car. I'll do a complete brake job on this before it's done. The car is going to a lady I know who lives on Social security, and has trouble walking. This ride will give independence and make doctor appointment much easier. So ya, good brakes equals piece of mind. As for the previous owner, I can't say anything bad. He's a nice guy overall. Just a bit clueless. While marijuana is legal in Washington, it doesn't mean everybody should partake.
  3. 5 points
    Have a look at these, boys! Still available from Subaru in tan.
  4. 5 points
    Old lug nut, fender washer, and some grease is the easiest DIY way. Or pull the hub off and hammer it in with a socket supporting the hub on the threaded side. GD
  5. 5 points
    I talked to the guy that I see all the time at the local burger joint who has a Subaru. Right off the bat he gave me the name of a guy who works on Subarus (who was also recommended by a local garage that has a good reputation). I found this man (he has a junkyard/body shop) and he has 4 Subs (that I saw) in various stages of repair at the moment. It was raining on us and I was on my way home from the vet with my cat, so I didn't talk to him long, but he sounds like Montana Tom upthread. He had a beautiful silver OB in the repair bay he's asking 3500 for right now - so assuming he can keep Subs in stock, I should be good to go once I have the money saved up. My neighbors had bought a fixed up non-Subaru from this guy and it's been a jewel of a car - I have to borrow it sometimes when my#$^*% truck tears up. I had been peeking at this guy's place when I would drive by, but I didn't see any Subies on his lot. Thank you all for the push to go up to people and ask...who knew I'd find someone this close by and so easily? Of course I will carefully check over any car he has for sale...but I have faith in the 'hillbilly grapevine" especially when it comes to the guys at the burger joint...I've been talking to them off and on for the last year or so; they strike me as the kind of fellas that would look out for a woman in need of help and not lie to me about stuff. If they say he's good, I believe them.
  6. 5 points
    So the clutch, flywheel and clutch cable were replaced after 32 years of great service. Replaced with OEM parts. Exedy clutch kit (Amazon) LUK flywheel (RockAuto) Subaru OEM clutch cable (Lithia Subaru of Oregon) I've had a Weber carb on it for years and now the clutch & shifting feel like when I drove it off the dealer's lot all those years ago. A few other things to attend to but nothing that affects how it runs.
  7. 4 points
    The clutch friction material was completely off the steel disk attached to the hub. It looked like a bird nest in the bottom of the trans.
  8. 4 points
    Thank you to all who replied and for supplying the solution, this not-well-known info about the "virgin" switch. It was switched by one of the crew at the car wash as they fussed to wipe the muck from the dashboard. Now that I know about this feature, I feel like I've been admitted to a secret society... no longer a virgin, so to speak
  9. 4 points
    So after a lot of work, mailing in a set of torsion bars from my Brat, paying for the initial machine work and engineering design, and a 8 week turn around, I happy to announce that you can now order new torsion bars for your EA81 chassis from Swayaway here in California. They will run $325 a set and will offer you a spring rate that's 20-25% stiffer than stock without loosing any of the rotational limits the stock ones had. Actually, Swayaway claims their bars will out perform the OEM bar in every single matrix, and they're guaranteed not to sag or break. You can check out their web site at www.swayawaycom. They make very high end products. So what does this mean: Better handling, no more having to crank the torsion bars for heavier loads, no more broken torsion bars, better articulation, and a new parts option for our aging suspension. I will be receiving my set this week and will do a comprehensive comparison to place here and on FB. Once I do that and ensure fit and finish is good, Ill update this post with the PN. He made 3 sets, 1 for me, 2 for immediate purchase, and any orders after those will be made to order.
  10. 4 points
    rotate crank to open intake on cyl 1, take out spark plug, attach compressor hose, blow the plastic backwards out the the way it went in?
  11. 4 points
    I’m guest east coast guy. see you all weekend.
  12. 4 points
    Mick's web site is still active: http://www.indysworld.com/vehicles/past/1982-wagon-mtngrizz/mountaingrizzly.html Need to level up on your google-fu. GD
  13. 4 points
    Well, I couldn't find an old ratty wheel to cannibalize for my aftermarket wheel adapter, so I just used mine. Made a plastic bushing to center the pilot bit, and holesawed away. Then flattened out the little bend on one edge with a BFH, and drilled and tapped for the new wheel. Best thing about this method (other than being cheap) is the horn and turn signal cancel cam work just like factory! I had this same style wheel back in high school in a 72 Opel GT that I stuffed a 1963, 215 CI. aluminum Oldsmobile V8 into, and always loved the wheel.
  14. 4 points
    I replaced the fuel pump, inlet screen, and filter and that appears to have been what the problem was. Thanks very much, everybody. Happy Trails!
  15. 4 points
    yep cam and crank sprockets were different swapped them over and it fired right up.
  16. 4 points
    Here's my 86 1/2 3-door turbo, my baby for the past 21 years, currently 242k miles.
  17. 3 points
    I have good used ones, rust free from CO. $35+ shipping.
  18. 3 points
    Decided to take my 85 Brat for a late evening cruise. I just installed the roll-bar lights and wanted to see how they would do at night. Stopped for a bit to enjoy the silence of an old farm road and snapped a picture.
  19. 3 points
    +1 Both compressors have roughly the same internal volume for moving freon, but the Lexus has a variable displacement compressor where the old school Brat compressor is a fixed displacement compressor so it's pumping full tilt all the time (unless the pressure switch shuts it off). The variable displacement may be mechanical or ECU controlled and is based off system pressures, flow and temp to yield acceptable cooling with minimal load on the engine to keep your MPGs up. Add to that, as you stated, the cabin size difference (Lexus being 2-3x the volume of a Brat) and the fact that R134 does not coll as well as R12 and there you have it. Your Lexus may also be having issues. Low charge, sticky temp door, plugged or stuck orifice/TXV or a cooling fan or condensor air flow issue. Give me old school AC any day.
  20. 3 points
    Loads of info on this conversion - it's been done 1000 times before! Sorry to bust your bubble but it's not a direct drop in as such. Power steering: you'll need a PS rack from a touring wagon or sedan then have a set of adapters to mate the lines to the rack - or get custom PS lines made up. Cruise control: you could possibly use the EJ factory gear - just means more wiring and nutting out how to mount all the hardware in the engine bay. Or go aftermarket. The AP60 unit works well for me in my brumby and L series ABS: well you could probably do it if you can mount all the sensors for each wheel, keep the wiring to run it all and bend up new brake lines to fit the ABS module. You'll have to relocate the battery to the other side of the engine bay. You need to cut down the wiring loom to get the ECU to run the engine. There are ppl in Oz that can do this for you if you're not game. Or use the whole loom from the donor vehicle - just splice in the plugs from the brumby loom to run the tail lights, indicators, parkers and headlights. The EJ steering column can be made to fit to keep the combination switch for indicators and hi/low beam etc. it'd probably be easier than cutting down the loom to do what you want to do. You can fit the AWD box - you'll need to fabricate the gearbox mount points - again it's been covered. You'll also need to modify the shift linkages and have a custom tail shaft made up. It's recommended that you do a two piece to avoid vibration unless the company building it does a top effort on their balancing. Or you can get an adapter plate (look up Subarino AE on bookface) to mate to your current pt4wd box to the EJ engine using the EA flywheel and clutch. But being that you're a P plater I'd recommend the gearbox mod. One issue with this is that it'll be mismatched to the rolling tyre diametre compared to the EJ equipped vehicle it came from. There are ways to sort this with a diff ratio swap but unless you know what you're doing I'd recommend someone else doing it for you or put up with the 2wd and learn how to drive appropriately. Also best to check out what engineering requirements are needed with the Nsw RTA before you start this conversion. Ej22 conversions are very common and an ej20 is a good swap too if capacity is an issue for the RTA. You could go all out with a five stud conversion to run the EJ brakes as well. Dfyol might have a set of rear hubs up for grabs to do this brake conversion - this is the key piece needed to do this brake conversion. Have a scroll through the different threads in this forum, there are a couple of EJ conversion related threads on the go recently. And there are many more before them if you use the search function All that said, it's well worth the effort, especially if you keep it sleeper with the stock look if that's what you're after Cheers Bennie
  21. 3 points
    I usually pay about $75 for used prop-shafts. Call around. Just get a new Duty-C and the gaskets - it's not expensive. You have a running/driving car - do you really suppose that you can replace it with another running/driving car that doesn't have unknown and possibly debilitating problems for $250? 230k really isn't that high if it's been maintained. One of my loaner cars has 320k and customers routinely comment on how they are surprised that everything works, how much power it has, and how tight the car is. It's a one-owner 1990 Legacy 5MT. I have people offering to buy it all the time. High mileage is usually an indication of excellent maintenance. I've seen plenty of low mileage cars that were mechanically thrashed. I would rather buy something with 300k and a huge stack of records than one with 150k and no maintenance. GD
  22. 3 points
    Hi Zett; Are you looking at the first generation outbacks (96-99) or second generation (00-04) The first generation 97-99 2.5 double cam motor can have serious HG issues, requiring instant attention / repair. The second generation is MUCH more forgiving about head gaskets. 2000 and up subi's will need their head gaskets changed at some point after 150,000 miles or so. However they just drip... oil and antifreeze ... directly on your catalytic so you'll smell it BUT, they are slow drips easily monitored and easy to keep topped up, literally for years if you don't mind the smell. It gives you time to save up for the job. Look around your area for a yard filled with Subaru's ,They will be Subaru people... stop in and ask where they have their work done. You may have to travel some but I'm sure there will be a Subaru specialty repair shop. After all W.V. has mountains and snow thats where Subi's Shine!
  23. 3 points
    Remove computer, and throw into nearest landfill. Install Weber. GD
  24. 3 points
    f both of them aren't working then it sounds like they were disabled or something that affects *both* sides is the issue. while they fail, the chances of both failing at the same time is unlikely and points to a shared issue or someone intentionally disabled them. check fuses/plugs make sure someone didn't just disconnect them. check that door switch is operational, i imagine that's what "triggers" them? convert to non-automatic download the FSM and start trouble shooting to retain the automatic ones.
  25. 3 points
    Have you looked into a title service? While you *can* swap vin's, you will still have the stamped vin on the firewall. I have not had to use a title service, but from what I have read, they title/register the car in a state that has low requirements for older cars, then you simply transfer the registration from state A to your state. Maybe a couple hundred and your legit. Oh, I think tachs were standard on GL trim. Mark
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