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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/21/18 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    I've done 3 joints in the last year or so. One on an '04 Outback, and the other a '00 Outback. Process should be the same for basically all Subarus. We've tried used ones here, most of them have worn joints...not worth the install time IMHO.Dorman makes an aftermarket shaft, same part number for '96-'04 Outback AT. I fished a donor shaft out of the scrap bin here at work with bad joints that came from an '07 4EAT Outback. I've measured it, and held it up under my car, and it looks like it should work, at least temporarily (front half was hardest to measure, looks like it might be a hair short, but I'm not worried about the slip yoke having a little less engagement for street use for a week).Rockford offers joints specifically to replace the staked in applications. Here's their application list for the 430-10 part (the Justy is the only Subaru found elsewhere in their list).http://www.rockforddriveline.com/media/documents/Vehicle_Fitment_430-10.pdfYou may notice it lists Legacy/Outback 1990-2009.Using parts interchange listings, and trying other vehicles on that list, I came up with a few other part numbers. Napa lists a UJ10430, although there was no availability. Autozone lists a 2-0430DL, of which they had 4 in their Hub store across town. I now have 2 of those sitting on my desk (they are greasable, btw). 1. The joint before I started, you can see some of the 8 little "stakes" being deformations in the outer yoke holding the caps in. 20180827_192114 by Numbchux, on Flickr I've seen 2 ways to do staked in joints (generally, not specifically Subaru), one is to grind the stakes out, and the other is to just use a press to push through them. In my experimenting on other shafts, it takes an enormous amount of force (easily the most I've ever done on my little 12 ton HF press), so I opted to grind first. High speed metal cutting bit on the dremel does a pretty good work down in the corners. 20180827_192401 by Numbchux, on Flickr While I had it out, I used the dremel to make a few light marks on the yoke and the shaft itself to ensure the orientation when it came time to reassemble. 20180827_192552 by Numbchux, on Flickr 2. Then over to the press, make sure to support the other end of the shaft pretty well. 20180827_192748 by Numbchux, on Flickr 3. Once it's pressed off to one side, the stakes become really clear (some of these are ground down, some are un-touched). 20180827_192926 by Numbchux, on Flickr 4. Flip it over and press it back all the way through to flatten those stakes. Then lay it with the opposite yokes supported (a vice works best for this), and pound on the yoke so those cups can be pushed out beyond the ears. Don't pound on the thin part at the top of the ears, and don't pound on the shaft tubing itself. 20180827_193255 by Numbchux, on Flickr 5. Flip over and repeat the other way until those cups are pushed as far out of the yoke as possible. It should get to the point where the cross of the ujoint can be removed from the yoke (if those cups are damaged, you might need to sneak a punch passed the cross to push the cup out further, just make sure not to damage the yoke). 20180827_193408 by Numbchux, on Flickr 6. Then pound the cups out the rest of the way: 20180827_193515 by Numbchux, on Flickr Rotate the shaft 90*, and repeat steps 1-6 to remove the other 2 caps, and remove the joint completely. 7. Now switch to a softer dremel bit (wire wheel or sanding drum work well) to clean up the inside of the yoke, you want to smooth everything out without taking off really any material. You'll also want to run a flat file across the inner surface of those ears, as the new joints will be held in place by snaprings against this surface. 20180827_195537 by Numbchux, on Flickr 8. Now to start preparing the new joint. The four cups need to be removed from the center cross, inside those cups are needle bearings which have to stay in place, and the only thing holding them there is grease. They *should* be pregreased with assembly lube for this purpose, but I don't trust it, so I hold the caps in place by hand and gently pump some fresh grease through them: 20180827_194557 by Numbchux, on Flickr 9. Then pull the caps off. You'll notice I removed the grease zerk from the one cap to protect it from damage, this is optional, but IMHO a good idea. 20180827_194833 by Numbchux, on Flickr 10. Put the cross in the middle of the yoke, and one of the caps in from the outside. You want to hold the cross inside the cap as tight as possible as you press on it to help keep those needle bearings in place. 20180827_194903 by Numbchux, on Flickr 11. Then press it in well past it's final resting place. This simplifies putting on that snapring, and aligning the opposing cup. 20180827_201328 by Numbchux, on Flickr 12. Put the snapring on the one cup, then put the opposite cup from the other side, and again slide the cross into the new cup as you press it in. This is a bit tricky, as you have to get it pressed in far enough to get the second snapring on, but you don't want to put too much pressure on the bearings to damage them (although, the cross should bottom out in the cups before the needle bearings bear the brunt of the weight) Back to step 10 to finish the other half of the joint, taking care to reassemble in the same orientation that you started with. Install the grease zerk (if you removed it), and grease. 20180827_203215 by Numbchux, on Flickr Now flip the shaft and do it all again at the other end. Install in the car, and enjoy!
  2. 6 points
    Hi everyone! i'm a locksmith in NY and an older Subaru enthusiast, i've had 2 Loyales, a 91 and 92, in the past and a 98 Impreza (unfortunately none now, but i'll be back!). anyway, enough about me...i'm seeing if anyone needs keys made for their locks? or needs their locks rekeyed to match ignition or whatever...i know a lot of you probably have different keys for door/ignition/trunk/glovebox etc. after replacing broken parts. if you're sick of that, let me know. if you mail me a lock, i can rekey it to a specific key. you can send either door or ignition locks and a key that you want to work in that lock, and i will set it up for you and send it back. probably for about $35 including shipping. if it requires more, i will let you know ahead of time and give you the option to just send it back without working on it for free. i can also do the same for most other locks, not just Subaru. Glovebox locks will require another lock if you want them to match. the glovebox only has 4 tumblers in it. the other locks have 8 or 10, depending on year and model, so i can't make a working key for your other locks based on the glovebox. you can also send a lock that you don't have keys for, and i will make you a key and send it back. that will probably run about $25-35. turnaround is usually within 1 day after i receive it. just get in touch and we'll figure it out. i'll let you know what you need to send. Paypal, Money orders, Zelle, even checks are ok (but you will have to wait until the check clears) ADMINS: if this is in the wrong section, please feel free to move it or whatever needs doing
  3. 6 points
    This was his last Facebook post on his personal page, from May 16th. Dear Friends, I don't know what is happening to the world, but there is something very Wrong, hiding underneath. I always believed that we come to this life with a heart, that is an empty Bag, which we should fill with precious moments, and wonderful memories; those are the only things that you will take with you, forever, even maybe to the other life; while everything else, material things, will never fill the emptiness of the bag on your heart. Trying to fill your heart's bag with material things, will only left you even more emtpy, not only on the spiritual plane... People seems to never realise that every day that they live, is a day less in their count of life; but it could be a day More, fulfilled with awesome memories, in their hearts. People forget that their little children will not be playing alone in that corner of your house, forever; waiting for you to finish seeing all your "friends" updates on social media, prior to dedicate a couple of minutes to play, before falling asleep. Believe me, social media is absurd and fake in many different ways; in real life no body cares if you ate bacon with honey in your pankakes for breakfast; but fake people will "Like" your empty and useless breakfast photo, like if they care; and so on... millions of people wasting time in a world full of hypocrisy. Not only time, but sometimes people also waste efforts, paying for travels, cars, etc, that really never wanted nor needed them, only to have the chance of taking the stupid "selfie" photo in order to gaining more "likes", they are living their lives like if they're in a high school's popularity contest; meanwhile what they really are "gaining" is only Emptiness, and the need to do a harder effort to pay for those unneeded "luxuries" to the system, that enslaves them more, and even more... Meanwhile, the little children grows, with an empty bag in their hearts, empty from the lack of precious moments, then they becomes men and women that goes from home, to start their own homes, leaving you even more empty... One day you might realize that you are really tired from being part of the system and being absorbed by social fakeness; and you might want to bow down and play with that little child that spent the childhood, alone, in a corner of your house, waiting for you to play; but you'll notice that nobody is there, and you are even more alone. Nothing worse than wasting such times. And sometimes parents fool themselves, sharing lots of photos from their children in different places, as if they really are playing or being with them; but they go from a place or another for the photos only; to display them in social media, but they have an empty background. Nothing is better in life than the Family; remember that your Wife / Husband \ Children, really needs you, and the best you can give to them, is the best part of your time, as long as you can; never give begrudgingly leftovers from your time, to them. I suggest you to try to fill your Heart bag with precious moments. The car, the money, The house, the job, the gym, the club, etc; everything will stay in earth. If you die, others will continue using them; the world continues and the other people, really don't care about you; only your mere family, if you dedicate quality time to them. You will reap what you sow. Every average day, can be turned onto two different things: it could be a hell, if you continue with selfish customs and being chained to the System, fighting for no real reason; or also the same day can be turned into an Awesome happy day, where all the family is surprised with a Pijama Party, a Family movie together, or simply by a dad or mom that decided to throw away the cell phone, shutting it off, to turn their lives on; and bow down to play with their children, or listening and paying attention to your spouse. You can make an average day, to be a Special day, every day, if you want to. Remember, Kids never care about the features of the car you drive; kids will remember if they went together with their parents in that car, to a nice sunny camp day on the mountains, or wherever their parents decided to go; those memories really fills the hearts of all the family and last forever, because the time that families spend together, is a priceless treasure for their hearts. I kindly suggest you to see less TV, less social media, drink less alcoholic beverages, smoke less; to avoid wasting your precious time and resources in empty things; and fill the hearts of every member of your family, with your presence, your warm heart, the things that you do together; you know... with spiritual things. Material things will never fill your immaterial soul. Sorry for this long letter, but I wanted to explain the reason why I am not visiting often my Facebook, nor the automotive web forums I used to... somehow I noticed that my daughter was growing too fast, and I decided to shut off my "Virtual Life" online, as much as I could; in order to spend all the quality time I can, with my Daughter, my wife, and the rest of my family. Still, I will check here from time to time. Sorry for any delays in answering. Kind Regards and Blessings. JesZeK (Loyale 2.7 Turbo)
  4. 6 points
    Thank you all you great guys out here on USMB - I couldn't have done it right with out you - probably would have messed it up. I wasn't ticking too bad, but now ZERO - and super quite overall! Also did water pump, hoses and seal on metal pipe that goes into pump. Sealed up some cracks in my air intake snorkel with RTV, fixed anything I found along the way and now it's super quite and smooth. No "bubbles and water fall" sounds coming out of coolant system. No scary stuff with the temperature almost going into danger before thermostat opens. Im pretty sure the last couple of days before the belt broke it had lost at least a tooth and jumped a tooth cause it was feeling out of balance when idling - that's the main reason I kind of why I thought it might be a waste doing this job - and I REALLY didn't want to tear it all the way down, I would have sold it or junked it. It really feels like I have a brand new rebuilt motor! To me it's amazing there is such a difference. AND NO OIL DRIPPING (yet) all over the bottom of the timing belts, which would spread into the exhaust pipe and start burning & smoking if on the freeway very long! It's almost like a dream... Thanks again
  5. 5 points
    some pic's of my 1978 brat. I am bought new in 1978 and bought the book end 2005 Baja for the wife in 2016
  6. 5 points
    Good to know the EJs are not going anywhere. Why EA? in no particular order, and not complete... Now that I have passed the 25 year mark, I will not deal with another car newer than 25 years old, just to avoid emissions hassles. For whatever reason, I just always have those crop up when I am already crazy busy. SO done with that. I never had an older / original Legacy, but we did have an 01 Forester for my wife. I could out maneuver it with my EA wagons, and all the newer versions are even bigger. Ok, didn't have to do the timing belts as often, but the DIY cost was nearly 5 times higher. Both of us can tell where the EA is on the road & parking a lot better than with the newer rounded cars. I can get bigger things into the back of my EA wagon than any of the newer models I've checked. Not by a lot, but a few items, it mattered. Do not want AWD forcing me to always run 4 identically worn tires. Bigger tires are more $ also, so not interested. I've also added lighting to my wife's Foresters, and now Impreza. [We replaced her 09Forester with an 09 Impreza recently, as she could not get used to the bigger rounder shape. Horrible time parking, etc.] What a PITA! all the wiring is hidden, even under the hood. Even though I am an electronics engineer [or maybe because I am one...] I don't want MORE computers to maintain and deal with in my vehicles. One for the ECU is ok, but that's enough. I don't drive tons of miles a year. I know the EA and have acquired or made all the tools I need to do nearly everything with them. Don't need to start over. It's now also just one of my hobby things - see how long I can keep running them. Because I can.
  7. 5 points
    OEM Subaru clutch and throttle cables.
  8. 5 points
    I see value in GDs comments. He had the Loyale/GL platform at one time and he decided to move away from it for the reasons he states. His reasons are valid. But they are equally valid reasons to not buy and maintain any old machine. With a car that ceased production in 1994 the lack of specific parts may be a good reason to stay away. But, as to the value, the market is the market. It seems like many of these are coming in under $1,000 but ones that are not rotten and seem to have been well maintained are going for higher prices. Some people are sticking with this GL/Loyale and keeping them running. I liked driving the one I did. My sense from talking with the owner was that he was able to find parts when he needed them or make due with substitutes. There are many aspects of the simplicity of the GL/Loyale that appeals to me. I do need to admit that I fly a 1946 Piper J-3. Low power, slow, uncomfortable, etc. Sometimes tricky to find parts for and maintain. Sometimes when flying about 1000 ft AGL I fly along a freeway so the movement of my shadow can be compared to the speed of the traffic. I need a tailwind to move faster then the cars. So why maintain and fly this plane? In the past I have owned a 59 MGA, a 64 Porsche, a 65 Beetle and a 64 Corvair and a 73 Austin Mini. I rode a Yamaha XS650. All quirky rides. My daily drive today is a Toyota. There are members on the forum who like the GL/Loyale and are driving and maintaining them.
  9. 4 points
    New to the site, but not to Subarus. Here's the latest, 1989 XT6. Been wanting an XT since they came out. I remember seeing the commercials when I was getting my driver's license. Any other XT owners or officianado's please drop me a line, I'm sure I'll be needing advice or other knowledge somewhere along the way. Got this baby for CHEAP due to a cobbled up fuseable link on the clean battery power.
  10. 4 points
    Hello USMB family! It's Gloyale now FerGloyale After trying and tryting since hte site change, I was unable to recover my old account here. Don't have that ol' Earthlink or Charter or whatever the heck it was in 2004 ISP based email anymore! So I am back. Rocking some new subies in the stable, as well as the old favorites. I may not be as active as I once was on here......but likely I will be around quite a bit. If you are someone who I had PMs about getting parts from me please contact me, as I have lost all of those communications and contacts. Good to be back. Regards, FerGloyale
  11. 4 points
    I probably suggest this too often: CTS - coolant temp sensor. Remember - on yours there is the single wire for the gauge and next to it is the actual sensor to the ECU....you want the latter.
  12. 4 points
    The 25D has head gasket issues for one reason only - the bore diameter caused a reduction in the thickness of the cylinder liner support walls where the HG fire ring seats on the block. Due to the thickness of the composition graphite gaskets they started with in 1996 (because of piston height above the deck at TDC) there is insufficient rigidity provided by the cylinder head to prevent the cylinders from moving around due to thermal expansion and contraction and combustion chamber pressure.This movement abrades the fire ring against the block and head leading to pitting, which ultimately leads to failure. Number of heat cycles is the primary indicator of lifespan coupled with any overheating events that add further thermal stress loading. It is easy to see this because Subaru solved the problem - you only need to look at what they did to effect a solution. They changed the piston to allow a thinner head gasket, and they beefed up the block around the liners to make them more rigid. For turbocharged applications they incorporated liner gussets to help stop them from moving under high cylinder pressure and temperature. Also the open deck 1.8 and 2.2 engines do not have this problem despite having the same thickness HG as the earl 25D. Why? Because the cylinder liner support walls are WAY thicker due to smaller bore size. The engineers that designed the EJ never envisioned a 2.5 liter displacement when they modeled in on early computer systems in the mid 1980's. When new engineers were asked to increase the displacement they inadvertently caused a HG issue by the bore size change without considering what that would do to the rigidity of the cylinder. It was an engineering design mistake. Nothing more. Nothing you do or do not do as regards the thermostat location will have ANY effect on the HG "problem" associated with this engine. Want to solve it permanently? Resurface the block and the heads, Install 251 pistons, and use the 642 turbo head gasket. They will never blow again. GD
  13. 4 points
    Hi all; Picked up an 01 limited 5 speed to flip this week. The seller claimed new head gaskets, new oe timing set , new factory thermostat. heads sent off to machine shop. All done in Jan 18. I was shown the bill. Car ran good until may then started overheating. Would run apx 25 miles before heating up. Putting pressure into the radiator just like a 25 D engine... having never come across a cyl. leaking head gasket on a 2.5 1 I went under the assumption that I would find a cracked head. Inspection of the spark plugs after bringing it home showed #1 plug water stained. While pulling the motor I saw that indeed a new timing set was on the car, not OE but not junk. The "new" thermostat had 1/4" holes drilled into it ,no doubt by the seller hoping to fix his heating up problem. My thought at that point was a low rent machine shop swapping out heads instead of rebuilding what was brought to them. Seller claimed he had the head gaskets done because they were oil dripping & he wanted to get another 100,00 out of his car... When removing the first head I could see that factory gaskets were not used ... after head was off, the problem was glaringly apparent, total crap quality head gasket !!! I have never seen a gasket deteriorate like this one had! In only 5 months ! No name left on the gasket if it ever had one. I pulled the other head and it would have been leaking any day! No proof but I have no doubt they were china gaskets.... The seller paid almost $1800 for this work, $200 alone for head gaskets and bolts! Moral of the story... Factory original parts ! If you can not do the work yourself... find a real Subaru shop. You usually get what you pay for... sometimes you get even less. He sold me the car for $800... costly little fix by a non subaru shop for him... nice clean car for me.
  14. 4 points
    Hey guys, I got my car back. Nothing but a bent up steering column and broken plastic cover. Radio is gone and some other little items. Glad to have it back in one piece.
  15. 4 points
    Skip NO steps. Regardless of bolt newness. Repeat each of the ft/lb torque sequences till they do not turn any further. If that takes three times or 50 times - once you run through the sequence and they no longer turn you can move on. Obviously this does not apply to the angle torque values. If you get creaking (stick-slip), STOP and take it apart. Yes chase the threads with an old bolt. And then you need to lube them with Amsoil Engine Assembly Lube. Lube the bolt threads of one bolt, run it in and out of each hole with the head off a couple times - relubing between each. Apply assembly lube LIBERALLY to each bolt and between the bolt head and top of the washer (not between the washer and the head). Make sure you use the small washer bolts in the corners and the big washer bolts in the center. You must use something like the Amsoil lube. Regular engine oil won't handle the load and will creak. Once you achieve ZERO creaking you are doing it right. Creaking means false torque readings and in all likelyhood insufficient clamping. My point was your machinist is a hack. I bought an Ra meter (used) for about $350. It's a neat little tool and a proper machine shop would own one (maybe several) in order to ensure they achieve proper specified surface roughness for any given application. This doesn't only apply to cylinder heads - lots of things need to have specific surface qualities. GD
  16. 4 points
    Yes it sounds like you are well equipped to deal with these then. I am mostly cautioning prospective buyers of "cheap" older Subaru's that these are a poor choice for someone looking for a first car, or a daily driver, etc. They are NOT that. I know it sounds silly, but the EA82 chassis is not the one you want if you want simplicity and frustration free. You want the EA81 chassis for that. Look for a really nice 82 to 84 GL wagon, or hatch. The EA81 is a much easier engine to work on than the EA82 and to some extent has more support. No timing belts and much easier to work on. Still going to be hard to find parts but if you have the money anything can be found or made. I still maintain and drive a lifted EA81 hatchback. Contrary to what people think around here - I don't hate them. I just see the reality of the situation and that reality is these are not for most people anymore. They are for collectors, folks with lots of parts, time, and money to maintain them. I have customer that pay me to work on their EA chassis cars and the bills are OUTRAGEOUS. Because no other shops have the knowledge or know where to the get the parts anymore. Trust me - I couldn't afford to pay myself to work on these cars. GD
  17. 4 points
    The clutch friction material was completely off the steel disk attached to the hub. It looked like a bird nest in the bottom of the trans.
  18. 4 points
    Thank you to all who replied and for supplying the solution, this not-well-known info about the "virgin" switch. It was switched by one of the crew at the car wash as they fussed to wipe the muck from the dashboard. Now that I know about this feature, I feel like I've been admitted to a secret society... no longer a virgin, so to speak
  19. 3 points
    I feel ya. That's why I'm rocking 80's GM technology. Simple, reliable, and I can get parts easily. I have a bluetooth adapter and an android app for my 86 Trans Am. Just the one computer for the TPI injection. GD
  20. 3 points
    You need a factory Subaru thermostat. They are made by Tama so if you find a supplier that sells those they will also work. ALL OTHERS WILL NOT WORK. That is almost certainly your problem. Your water pump is fine. The impeller is cast iron. GD
  21. 3 points
    Decided to go track down one for myself. Garage that is putting the clutch in my WRX let me take theirs home for a couple days. I’m busy scanning it with my phone. It will actually come out pretty good all things considering. Used to use this app for work and manuals there. Is anyone interested in a copy? It’s about 900 or so pages long and is going to be a monster .pdf i should have it mostly done tonight
  22. 3 points
    The oil drain back passages are huge. Like 1.5 x 3 inch.
  23. 3 points
    I would pay the core, grab any needed parts from your old one, put in the new one and recycle your own core at a local scrap yard and save the gas and windshield time. You can also ask them to waive the core. They do sometimes.
  24. 3 points
    OEM EJ front struts mounts rarely fail. So if you find yourself stuck thinking you wouldn’t need to replace it but the bearing isn’t good - you’ve got an option. If it’s not rusted terribly and the bushing/mount material is good and only the bearing is an issue, you can regrease the bearings. Today I did one on a 190,000 mile Outback strut that’s sat outside for a while and the bearing was seized, then hard to turn, very lumpy and catching. Doing the following, it was perfectly usable by my standards when I was done. For practice and to get a feel for what you’ll be doing you can use a tiny pick or spludger device to pry the edge of the face seal up on the under side of the mount where the face seal meets the inner race. I’m not all that delicate with these, the OEM ones I’ve done the seal materials are highly pliable and resilient. Use a needle fitting for a grease gun and insert it very roughly about 30 degrees incline from the seal face and between the inner race and the face seal. It’ll take a few times to get it to actually go down into the bearings. It often “stops” right away and you can’t push it in. If it stops - Pull back. Slide down the race a little or pull it all the way and rotate and try again. Eventually the needle slides in a solid 1/2” and notably goes down into the bearing. Before you pump grease press down where the needle enters and “seal” that entrance up with a finger so less grease just comes back out of that area when you squeeze the grease gun Give it some grease and pull the fitting out. rotate the bearings a few/couple dozen times by hand. Wipe up any external grease. repeat those steps 2-7 times depending how much grease you put in. Smaller shots of grease multiple times would be ideal and best. dont overfill the bearing or pump quickly or the face seal can be push out If that happens just press the face seal back down by hand after a few times the bearing will feel much better. Every other bearing I’ve done (timing pulleys and others) feels indistinguishable from new after doing this - tight and smooth just like a new bearing , strut mounts seem to retain a little less smooth feeling but still feel much better, turn freely, feels greased, and good enough for me for a strut mount. Ive done this to timing pulleys?and they do just fine even after 50,000 miles of high rotational speeds and localized temps. And I’ve done it to older subarus with unavailable pulleys and unavailable bearings where the face seal cracks and gets more damaged than normal due to age/design - not ideal but options are limited - and still no problems 10’s of thousands of miles on probably 10-20 bearings like that. So it seems like this should be a reasonable option in some cases for EJ strut mounts
  25. 3 points
    I have a 93 and an 87. I intend to run them indefinitely. Plan on stocking up on NLA parts. Getting creative with adapting generic parts when needed. Plan on doing all your repairs, unless you are lucky enough to live near another one of us crazys who run these EA82s. Plan on continuing to have ridiculously low tax bills. No emmisions testing hassles. If it runs and drives you might get 1000 for it from a just anyone kind of buyer - who will be screwed the first time anything real breaks... If it's near mint and no rust you could get more, but there are not a lot of us around... my 2 are very low rust, so I'm not looking for another one. The only trouble I consider "fatal" is when the rust gets out of control.