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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/08/19 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    I've been slowly combing through various subsystems on my RX and the most recent system to get some love was the PCV system. I found that every hose is still available, except the one that attaches directly to the PCV valve on the intake manifold. I ran down to my local auto parts store with the original hose in hand to pick through their selection of hoses. WELL! It turns out that the small heater hose from a 2002-2009 Ford Explorer (Dayco P/N 87730) is almost a perfect fit. Hose was about $7 and needed to have a small portion trimmed off. NOTE: EPDM is NOT oil safe, so until I find a better solution, I'll need to keep an eye on this hose to make sure it isn't perishing too quickly.
  2. 6 points
    Here from Chino California introducing my new 1984 GL Turbo Wagon. I believe im the second owner after all the hassles I've been thru with DMV. I found the car on craigslist after just browsing thru the ad's, It was a barn find. The guy I got it from had it parked over ten years. What got me interested was the low mileage. I has 95236 original miles on the odemeter. The car is pretty much complete. Just a dent on the driver side door. What sold me was that it came with the complete factory service manual. And the car manual with the maintenance book with all the services done at its proper mileage.
  3. 5 points
    It can be done, but I would recommend cutting in the middle, turning the OD down to match some seamless heavy-wall tubing with some plug-welding holes pre-drilled in it. Press it into the sleeve with a .001" interference fit then weld up the ends and all the plugs. You should keep the splined ends wrapped in a wet rag to prevent them from losing their heat treat. GD
  4. 5 points
    Update! Today I soldered in a used connector I got from the wreckers. I did a test of wiggling the wires near the connector when the car was running and sure enough it was near the connector - the engine shut off I soldered in new cable and connector, and my car runs like a dream now. The idle is no longer as rough and there is no stalling. More power and response from the engine which is great! Thanks so much for all your help and expertise. Project successful! (So far) I will post an image later Edit: Not sure if i didnt notice before, but now on a warm start the revs of the car go straight to 650-800/ the revs that the car usually has when running. its very smooth, but I'm used to the 1200 revs on startup that slows to 650-800 after 20-30 secs. Im guessing its something to do with a proper connection now? unsure as to why the crank angle sensor would change the idle speed but anywho... Feels great
  5. 5 points
    Yep. It was almost 15 years ago, so a lot has changed, but mostly still relevant.
  6. 5 points
    Don't. You'll just look like a tool in a lowered 96 Outback. GD
  7. 4 points
    The first round of replacements was "interim". They replaced the airbags with the same defective Takata units (just newer) that were being removed. The Takata bags were considered more dangerous the longer they were in service and the higher the humidity of the environment they were exposed to. This second round is to replace them with permanent replacements rather than the defective original units. GD
  8. 4 points
    Timing is wrong. It's firing on an open intake valve. GD
  9. 4 points
    It’s way past it’s peak (the USMB) due to the face dook trend which has made good men into .... ok I’ll stop there. Many folks who I electronically rubbed elbows with HERE are now gone and have found FB a place they feel comfy. I think it blows. Not the time for debate and there’s good aspects of it as well as the B/S. Just too much B/S. So as far as membership goes I don’t know what we topped off at. Used to see statistics like that on here somewhere. Bottom of the page. But we’ve changed providers and whatnot. Maybe there’ll be a resurgence one day. Who knows. Features like adding pictures sure help. Took me TWENTY YEARS but I finally got out West and met some of the really great folks who have made this board a great place to hang out for over two decades now. The WCSS is a cool event which the USMB members had a lot to do with. Thats a little bit of yappin’ about the USMB. Maybe one one of those guys like Legacy777 will show up and give details.
  10. 4 points
    I will say that a proper explanation from Shawn would be a lot more helpful than deleting the previous thread. Why can't we all just work this out and help both parties to a mutually beneficial solution? I've got a lot of use from this forum and I thank Shawn for maintaining it for us. I would chip in for shipping to get this transmission to his customer if that's what needs to happen. I don't see this being that difficult to resolve and I don't see how ignoring it or deleting it will help either. GD
  11. 4 points
    A friend at work who is big on old Datsuns found this and passed it along to me. It might not be ideal for those of us in the states, but at least they exist! https://www.facebook.com/1019828981401739/posts/subaru-brumby-brat-owners-will-be-pleased-to-know-that-we-have-brand-new-tailgat/2562631333788155/
  12. 4 points
    the problem with this line of thinking is you are assuming it's ALL the rings that are "bad". When in fact, the compression rings are usually fine, it's just the oil rings that are the problem. It's not a worn bore, or tired compression rings. Just oil. Often these engines burn oil simply because the owners don't change oil often enough, and the coked up burnt oil clogs the oil control rings. That's it. They are clogged and stuck in the land, and can't scrape away oil anymore so they burn. Worse for boxers because gravity doesn't help keep the oil down. The compression rings ARE FINE. The bores are fine. It's just clogged oil rings 90% of the time making them burn oil. So honing out the bore, roughly, by hand, with a ball hone will produce a WAAAY more uneven, non-uniform finish than the factory. Plus, to properly hone, you need the block split, and if you do that then you better be ready to polish the crank and putt in new bearings. Why? Just to control oil consumption? It's pointless. EJ na engines mostly don't lose compression to ring wear.......they just sometimes need new oil control rings.
  13. 4 points
    Just get a reman short block from Subaru - 3 yr/ 36k warranty. About $2250. Don't even bother with used engines. The pricing on used engines and the warranty on the reman's make used engines a poor choice. Read about the main journal clearances that I posted above - you really want to put in a 150k engine? GD
  14. 4 points
    Low voltage codes. They will likely clear on their own after a few drive cycles. The initial crank but no start is normal for all the 04+ DBW cars. You have to power on the ECU then wait about 15 seconds for it to initialize. GD
  15. 4 points
    brus brother, Just to go along with this ... I use Map Gas instead of propane when doing the same job. The Blue propane tank torches just aren't hot enough for some rusted fasteners, while the Yellow Map Gas tanks of the same size burn much hotter, and they are fairly cheap as well.
  16. 4 points
    You know recently I moved to a new city, and had to try to find a new mechanic for my 95 legacy. to be honest my old one in Houston wasn’t all that fluent in Sublish, but he was very affordable and honest. And you know going to a new person to trust with your baby, well it can be traumatizing. So knowing the resources here on USMB, I searched for “Austin”. And I came across posts specifically by 1LuckyTexan who I know speaks the ancient tongue of Subaric. Long story short, I found the cardoc sage, his shop is 15 minutes from my house if that, and he works on Saturdays. Life is good. thank you all, again. ‘97
  17. 4 points
    No, don't have any pics. They're just old rigs. They're not too 'pretty', just 'plain Jane's' with a few dings an wows. But I do have an aversion to rust. I'm a utilitarian kind of guy mostly. My main concern is how they run. The mechanics and reliability are what is important to me. If I can't fix it I can't own it. That's why they're all carbureted and no computers. I used to ride BMW Motorcycles so the boxer Subaru engine was a major draw plus the 4wd that you don't need a ladder to get into your friggin' rig was appealing. I'm not real happy with the Weber carbs I have on 2 of them. They are hard starting SOB's whereas the '87' with the Hitachi starts fine every time in all weather. Thinking now I should have left them stock but got sucked in by the Weber hype. I have gotten lots of help from these forums and I really appreciate that members are willing to offer advise to us less experienced.
  18. 4 points
    Hey all. Thought I would share a new to me discovery about Subaru Ignition lock cylinder replacement. I had a customer who's 04 Forester Ignition lock failed. Seized up, wouldn't return to "off" position so was draining battery in ACC. So, I call dealership, talk to them about ordering a new lock cylinder. Now, I've done this I think 3 times in the past. Always purchased a new cylinder and customers then just used 2 keys, 1 for doors, 1 for Ignition. Not a big deal as all those cars had keyless entry, so they didn't really need the "door" key ever. Now, for this Forester, the customer does not use keyless entry, and wanted all keys the same. So I inquired from dealer this time, is there a kit available to replace all 3 lock cyls (Ig., Drivers door, glovebox) in the car with matching keys? Well sure enough, AFTER I ASKED, they tell me "oh, yes, there is a whole car kit" It's $60 dollars cheaper than just the Ig. cylinder. DOH! Why the HELL don't they volunteer that info! Anyhow here's the kit for a Manual trans, 04 Forester. I imagine kits for other models are available too, but I haven't confirmed how many. Comes with Master key (top), Sub-master (middle w/code tag) and Valet (does not operate glove box) IMG_0101 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr
  19. 3 points
    Those coins also means the head hasn’t over heated since the last work was done. They’re there as a warranty on their work. Over heat the heads and the coins fall off. Cheers Bennie
  20. 3 points
    All grounds were where they should be, clean and tight. I put in a second used Alt I had and it's charging fine. Battery and brake light off. Happy New Year! Larry
  21. 3 points
    I cannot believe what this was! The screw that held/holds the ignition switch into the key lock assembly was gone. SO...when the key was turned to start, the switch moved in the casing just enough that no contact was made. One screw and fixed. Man...that was easy! But now I know what to do if problems occur in the future! Thanks Guys! Todd
  22. 3 points
    My suggestion is: don't replace either one. The plug wires are not a failure point unless run with bad plugs (excessive gap) or soaked in oil from plug well seals leaking. The coils almost never fail unless treated similarly or allowed to corrode from lack of dielectric grease. NGK for wires, OEM Subaru for coil pack. If you must. Don't fix it till it's broken - change the plugs, clean and lube the coil terminals. Done. GD
  23. 3 points
    The Subaru dealer's opinion: "confirmed customer concern, transfer clutch is not releasing properly, causing a tight binding and rumble noise on sharp turn. Removed transfer clutch and plates looked discolored like they were getting hot." They replaced the transfer clutch plates and piston, retainer spring, seals, snap rings, shims, oil seal, and changed the CVT fluid. "Test drove, noise and feel felt better but still a little present, transfer clutch needs to finish breaking in." It was all covered under the CVT warranty. They said drive it for a few weeks, and if the problem comes back, they will replace the entire CVT with a new one, under warranty.
  24. 3 points
    rear driveshaft ujoint or carrier bearing
  25. 3 points
    Some pictures of my L wagon in various configurations... Fenders are a bit ugly at the moment but I've had bigger problems to deal with Eventually they'll get flares and a paint job. Upset someone cut the bottom rung off the 3 tube bullbar I found, but it's still pretty good. Hope you all like those camber angles. I'm sure something ain't right there...
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