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  1. 8 points
    I've done 3 joints in the last year or so. One on an '04 Outback, and the other a '00 Outback. Process should be the same for basically all Subarus. We've tried used ones here, most of them have worn joints...not worth the install time IMHO.Dorman makes an aftermarket shaft, same part number for '96-'04 Outback AT. I fished a donor shaft out of the scrap bin here at work with bad joints that came from an '07 4EAT Outback. I've measured it, and held it up under my car, and it looks like it should work, at least temporarily (front half was hardest to measure, looks like it might be a hair short, but I'm not worried about the slip yoke having a little less engagement for street use for a week).Rockford offers joints specifically to replace the staked in applications. Here's their application list for the 430-10 part (the Justy is the only Subaru found elsewhere in their list).http://www.rockforddriveline.com/media/documents/Vehicle_Fitment_430-10.pdfYou may notice it lists Legacy/Outback 1990-2009.Using parts interchange listings, and trying other vehicles on that list, I came up with a few other part numbers. Napa lists a UJ10430, although there was no availability. Autozone lists a 2-0430DL, of which they had 4 in their Hub store across town. I now have 2 of those sitting on my desk (they are greasable, btw). 1. The joint before I started, you can see some of the 8 little "stakes" being deformations in the outer yoke holding the caps in. 20180827_192114 by Numbchux, on Flickr I've seen 2 ways to do staked in joints (generally, not specifically Subaru), one is to grind the stakes out, and the other is to just use a press to push through them. In my experimenting on other shafts, it takes an enormous amount of force (easily the most I've ever done on my little 12 ton HF press), so I opted to grind first. High speed metal cutting bit on the dremel does a pretty good work down in the corners. 20180827_192401 by Numbchux, on Flickr While I had it out, I used the dremel to make a few light marks on the yoke and the shaft itself to ensure the orientation when it came time to reassemble. 20180827_192552 by Numbchux, on Flickr 2. Then over to the press, make sure to support the other end of the shaft pretty well. 20180827_192748 by Numbchux, on Flickr 3. Once it's pressed off to one side, the stakes become really clear (some of these are ground down, some are un-touched). 20180827_192926 by Numbchux, on Flickr 4. Flip it over and press it back all the way through to flatten those stakes. Then lay it with the opposite yokes supported (a vice works best for this), and pound on the yoke so those cups can be pushed out beyond the ears. Don't pound on the thin part at the top of the ears, and don't pound on the shaft tubing itself. 20180827_193255 by Numbchux, on Flickr 5. Flip over and repeat the other way until those cups are pushed as far out of the yoke as possible. It should get to the point where the cross of the ujoint can be removed from the yoke (if those cups are damaged, you might need to sneak a punch passed the cross to push the cup out further, just make sure not to damage the yoke). 20180827_193408 by Numbchux, on Flickr 6. Then pound the cups out the rest of the way: 20180827_193515 by Numbchux, on Flickr Rotate the shaft 90*, and repeat steps 1-6 to remove the other 2 caps, and remove the joint completely. 7. Now switch to a softer dremel bit (wire wheel or sanding drum work well) to clean up the inside of the yoke, you want to smooth everything out without taking off really any material. You'll also want to run a flat file across the inner surface of those ears, as the new joints will be held in place by snaprings against this surface. 20180827_195537 by Numbchux, on Flickr 8. Now to start preparing the new joint. The four cups need to be removed from the center cross, inside those cups are needle bearings which have to stay in place, and the only thing holding them there is grease. They *should* be pregreased with assembly lube for this purpose, but I don't trust it, so I hold the caps in place by hand and gently pump some fresh grease through them: 20180827_194557 by Numbchux, on Flickr 9. Then pull the caps off. You'll notice I removed the grease zerk from the one cap to protect it from damage, this is optional, but IMHO a good idea. 20180827_194833 by Numbchux, on Flickr 10. Put the cross in the middle of the yoke, and one of the caps in from the outside. You want to hold the cross inside the cap as tight as possible as you press on it to help keep those needle bearings in place. 20180827_194903 by Numbchux, on Flickr 11. Then press it in well past it's final resting place. This simplifies putting on that snapring, and aligning the opposing cup. 20180827_201328 by Numbchux, on Flickr 12. Put the snapring on the one cup, then put the opposite cup from the other side, and again slide the cross into the new cup as you press it in. This is a bit tricky, as you have to get it pressed in far enough to get the second snapring on, but you don't want to put too much pressure on the bearings to damage them (although, the cross should bottom out in the cups before the needle bearings bear the brunt of the weight) Back to step 10 to finish the other half of the joint, taking care to reassemble in the same orientation that you started with. Install the grease zerk (if you removed it), and grease. 20180827_203215 by Numbchux, on Flickr Now flip the shaft and do it all again at the other end. Install in the car, and enjoy!
  2. 6 points
    Hi everyone! i'm a locksmith in NY and an older Subaru enthusiast, i've had 2 Loyales, a 91 and 92, in the past and a 98 Impreza (unfortunately none now, but i'll be back!). anyway, enough about me...i'm seeing if anyone needs keys made for their locks? or needs their locks rekeyed to match ignition or whatever...i know a lot of you probably have different keys for door/ignition/trunk/glovebox etc. after replacing broken parts. if you're sick of that, let me know. if you mail me a lock, i can rekey it to a specific key. you can send either door or ignition locks and a key that you want to work in that lock, and i will set it up for you and send it back. probably for about $35 including shipping. if it requires more, i will let you know ahead of time and give you the option to just send it back without working on it for free. i can also do the same for most other locks, not just Subaru. Glovebox locks will require another lock if you want them to match. the glovebox only has 4 tumblers in it. the other locks have 8 or 10, depending on year and model, so i can't make a working key for your other locks based on the glovebox. you can also send a lock that you don't have keys for, and i will make you a key and send it back. that will probably run about $25-35. turnaround is usually within 1 day after i receive it. just get in touch and we'll figure it out. i'll let you know what you need to send. Paypal, Money orders, Zelle, even checks are ok (but you will have to wait until the check clears) ADMINS: if this is in the wrong section, please feel free to move it or whatever needs doing
  3. 6 points
    Like a good friend, you miss the USMB when it's down.
  4. 5 points
    FOUND! Self recovery from the crack heads that were driving it around Oakland. No damage beside stereo to torn apart and the smell of crack head... Having a gps locator onboard was the saving grace. Thanks for all the support USMB! Im adding in a secret ignition kill switch. FYI -I’m pretty sure my ignition lock is so old. any worn down Subaru “skeleton” key would have work. Doesn’t look like they hot wire bypassed.. we won’t discuss that to much online but you may want to check it out for yourself. Luke
  5. 5 points
    Chosen engine source: JDMracingmotors of Montreal JDM Legacy JDM 2000-2002 3.0L H6 EZ30 Engine video of compression test on youtube. all over 180 psi parts list from rock auto Stabilizer Bar Bushing MOOG K200635 pack of 2 $7 Front Stabilizer Bar Link MOOG K80693 #20420AA003 pair $27 ac delco oil filter $4 air filter $7 fuel filter $16 serpentine accessory belt ac delco $17 Screw on trans filter beck arnley $5 PCV valve $6 beck arnley fuel injector refurb kit (four seals) x6 $5 ea (from dealer $36) Pre-existing RH fuel rail vapor odor- could be hoses or seals at injector Retain fuel rails from stock, due to JDM having water-dirt contamination from weather exposure. Swap fuel injectors from JDM intake to stock intake. Replace all fuel rail hoses and filter hoses Raybestos 3/8" magnetic trans filter inline at transmission cooler add-on hose ID PCV hose 0.4" valve cover 0.5" head to intake 8mm fuel line 8mm (5/16") evaporator 1/4" power steering return 0.4" 3/8" Dealer parts Trans seal(s) leaking at CV axle right side, left side also? Replace both axle seals and o-rings. leaking oil at trans, suspect from seal(s) retainer ring, o-ring x2 806984040 $2 ea retainer ring, oil seal 806730031 $5 RH verify side retainer ring, oil seal 806730032 $5 LH verify side front differential oil drain plug gasket 803926090 PCV hose to valve 11815AB083 $37 valve cover gasket R 13270AA104 $25 valve cover gasket L 13272AA104 $25 valve cover spark plug gaskets x6 13293AA051 $8 ea exhaust manifold gasket x2 44011AE040 $6 ea exhaust donut gasket 44011AE031 $9 exhaust flange bolt at donut x2 44059AA010 $3 ea exhaust spring at donut x2 44044AA010 $4 ea exhaust flange bolt nut at donut x2 802008270 $2 ea exhaust flange bolt at muffler x2 010510307 $2 ea exhaust gasket at muffler 44011AE01A $3 exhaust flange bolt at muffler 902350001 qty 2 $2 water pipe hose, right angle, top, RH front 99078AA090 $6 water pipe hose, dog leg, top, front, LH 99078AA120 $8 water pipe hose, RA, throttle body, top, RH rear 807607251 $5 hose, water pipe hose, throttle body, top, 21204AA681 $10 hose, water pump bypass, at Tstat, straight, 807615030 $10 hose, water, at oil cooler, right angle, 99078AA110 $8 hose, water, at oil cooler, straight, 807611060 $4 hose, water, at Tstat, right angle, 807611071 $5 HOSE-HEATER,OUTLET, 72421AE02A $15 HOSE-HEATER,INLET, 72411AC020 $15 hose, vacuum, Intake manifold, right side, front, 99071AB361 $4 reuse: hose, vacuum, Intake, left side, front, 99071AB280 $13 or purchase generic hose such as: High Performance Silicone Vacuum Hose - 5 feet - 5/16" ID (.3125"|8mm) - Blue https://www.ebay.com/itm/263495230935?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true parts to refurb torque converter Housing OIL SEAL 806750060 Price:$6.51 Input Shaft O RING 806920070 Price:$0.84 Oil Pump Shaft RING-SEAL,A 31361AA000 Price:$8.74 Oil Pump Shaft CIRCLIP-INNER 805343020 Price:$2.43 Low pressure side power steering hose from hard pipe near airbox to plastic reservior is cracked. Power steering low pressure HOSE-RETURN 34611AE14A two types, either $17 or $70. Unsure which one I have. Replace with Gates power steering return hose. 3/8" ID. GATES 350010 (350020) Power Steering Return Four types of power steering return hose, suction side of reservoir Will keep existing hose for now, not leaking 34611AE23A HOSE-SUCTION $19 34611AE12A HOSE-SUCTION $38 34611AE07A HOSE-SUCTION $20 34611AE08A HOSE-SUCTION $24 CLAMP-HEATER PIPE 72057AA001 $2 gasket, thermostat 21236AA010 $3 reuse existing thermostat and rad hoses (replace at next coolant flush) valve cover hose to air box R side valve cover hose to air box L side 11815AB062 $17 gasket, EGR hard pipe x2 14719AA033 $5 ea donor is RHD: swap intake over (see notes) GASKET-INTAKE MANIFOLD x2 14035AA410 $13 leave head gaskets alone reseal timing cover with three bond 1217H (for 1280B) oil pan pickup o-ring 806919080 reseal oil pan with ultra grey oil cooler o-ring replace with dealer part reseal rocker valve covers with OEM gaskets and sealant recommended sealant three bond 1280B - discontinued by SOA Replaced by THREE BOND 1217H Part Number: SOA868V9610 Alternative: 3M™ Ultrapro™ High Temp Silicone Gasket 08672 Black 3 Oz replace spark plugs x6 with NGK PLFR6A11 $8 ea platinum WASHER,CYLINDER HEAD SEALING 10982AA000 Two on timing chain cover, replaced timing cover, crank pulley, oil seal 806738200 $5 bucket and shim valve inspect. Largely in spec. replace spark plugs transmission rubber mount 41022AE12B seems intact ************** Job notes *************** intake manifold ************** prior to pulling engine- removed intake manifold due to difficulty accessing 4 torque converter bolts. injectors and fuel rails remain attached to manifold. must remove all 6 injector electrical connectors...this is not mentioned in procedure. must also remove LH oxygen sensor mate that is fastened to a metal bracket in order to remove the injectors and leave the harness on the engine. removed bracket first due to difficulty with this step. Intake differences: vacuum line to brake on right side of JDM intake, strange square plug on L side. Could just run a longer vacuum line to the fitting...or swap intake over...I chose to swap. ...notes from subaruoutback.org... Brake booster connection has a nipple on one side and a plug on the other. About half the time I can get the two broke out and swapped. If not I just run a longer hose, and save the one-way valve made into the OEM hose. AC compressor is different. Alt and PS pump are the same. No other major stuff to swap. No need to swap intake manifolds. ...end of subaruoutback.org... *********** engine separation ************** advised to use the special tool p/n 498277200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kent-Moore-498277200-Flywheel-Stopper-Subaru/372549661330?hash=item56bdb0b292:g:I2kAAOSwrmRcJVqM:sc:USPSFirstClass!37122!US!-1:rk:1:pf:0 Tool is a keeper for the torque converter, attached to the lower bolt hole for the starter. Otherwise torque converter can wiggle off the trans and come with the engine. This part is $130 on ebay. Some have made it themselves. Others have jury rigged something using ty-wrap, wire, or the alternator bolt and washers through a torque converter bolt hole. Part I made from 16 awg sheet metal bent on engine separation. The torque converter was easily pushed back in after the engine came out, but according to FSM, it needs to be around +0.1" offset from the trans bell housing. I measure it to around 0.25". So torque converter coming out. Not sure where the problem is. The oil pump shaft is seated on the converter well and the circlip is seated in the slots w/o obvious damage. Will reuse existing circlip. Possibly the input shaft was dislodged slightly. The input shaft came out when the torque converter was removed (easily). Has an o-ring that is degraded. Will replace. Reinstall input shaft into transmission. FSM states that it should be 0.197 - 0.217 offset from front of trans. I measure it at 0.204 so we're good. Oil pump shaft has a ring seal that is split, intentionally? Will replace. Oil seal will be replaced for good measure. Alternative, from USMB: When you get the bolts out of the TC and its free from the flexplate, take a big screwdriver or prybar and pry it back away from the flexplate. Should move back about 1/4" and disengage the pilot stub which will help keep the TC from sliding out when you separate the bellhousings. When you get the engine and trans separated about an inch, get a bolt that's about 3/4" longer than the width of the upper bellhousing. Get a nut and a fender washer to fit the bolt. slide the bolt into the top corner bellhousing bolt hole, put the box end of a large wrench, about 3/4", on the bolt, point the other end of the wrench towards the center stub of the TC. Slide the washer on, then the nut, then tighten it up. It doesn't need to be he-man tight. Just tight enough to keep the wrench from moving. Now as long as you didn't drag the TC out that far while trying to get the engine loose, it will stay seated properly until you've put the engine back in. images of timing cover internals https://www.flickr.com/photos/dbur971/sets/72157700601187324/ ************ transmission seal retainers *************** R side first Degreased externals. Removed retainer lock. Marked retainer. Removed with channel lock pliers and PVC tool. 7 turns to remove. Tapped out oil seal with rubber mallet. Removed bearing. Degreased. Reinstall new oil seal and o-ring. Reinstall bearing after coating with gear oil. Reinstall retainer 7 turns to hand tight. Used pliers to turn 1-2 more teeth to line up with mark. Reinstall retainer lock 25 ft-lb. L side next Degreased externals. Removed retainer lock. Marked retainer. Removed with channel lock pliers and PVC tool. 7.25 turns to remove. Tapped out oil seal with rubber mallet. Removed bearing. Degreased. Reinstall new oil seal and o-ring. Portion of differential popped out and was easily reinstalled with some wiggling. Reinstall bearing after coating with gear oil. Reinstall retainer 7 turns to hand tight. Used pliers to turn 3 more teeth to line up with mark. Rather tight for last tooth. Periodically rotated shaft during tightening. Shaft not overly light after retainer installed. ****************** A/C compressor ***************** swap old unit onto JDM engine. JDM has lines cut. Will be spare. Existing harness does not match JDM connectors. ***************** alternator ***************** JDM will be spare. Reinstall old unit. ****************** power steering *************** JDM will be spare. Reinstall old unit. Old cradle fits JDM engine. left side oxygen sensor cable cut. swap harness over L side knock sensor missing, harness cut. Swap sensor over. small ventilation hoses on front of valve cover to intake piping L side loose/cracked. Replace. R side seems ok Replace fuel lines on intake as needed Gates 5/16" 27348 Barricade MPI Fuel Line Amazon, 15' $41 Fuel evaporator vapor return line from intake to firewall is rotting, replaced with yellow 1/4" tygon tubing, fuel rated Tygon F-4040-A PVC Fuel And Lubricant Tubing, 1/4" ID, 3/8" OD, 1/16" Wall Replaced PCV valve. Sealed with ultra grey. Note that JDM valve did not seem to be sealed. Torque converter notes: Post submitted to USMB. See separate post of the ugliness. Tapped oil pump shaft oil seal in using a punch to try to gain some increased travel on torque converter. Ended up driving it in too far. Tried to pull it back with a slide hammer but tore the seal. Removed with slide hammer. Bought and installed new seal. Drove it in about 0.05" past lip this time to avoid covering oil access hole at 3pm position. Reinstall torque converter w/o issues on 2nd time. Separation is 0.15". Plenty of space between flex plate and converter w/o impact after engine reinstalled. Install 4 bolts, replace cover. Then install intake manifold. Flex plate: Installed while on engine stand. Used a 3/8" extension to brace flex plate against engine case. Torque to 60 ft. lb. Grease torque converter center stub and flex plate receiver. No bearing here. exhaust manifolds: scotch brite and orbital sand with 60 grit. spray gaskets with copper sealant. Leave flange prior to resonator as is. loose heat shield repaired with extra piece of sheet metal placed between shield and exhaust pipe. new donut gasket placed. front differential gear oil 80w90 @engine swap 3-2019 used walmart brand. Poured in with 1 qt container with hose/nozzle. Added about 1.25 qt. Crank bolt: Method to install in a manual trans does not work (locking brakes). No way to lock the torque converter, just spins. Should have tightened it while on engine stand when installing flex plate. Used a combination of 3/8" extensions and a large bolt to hold the crank pulley vs. the center bolt. Torque to 160 ft. lb. Took pictures of the madness. Might have stressed the idler pulley bearing on the A/C bracket. Engine install: After much trouble attempting to level out the engine on the hoist, which was pretty unsuccessful, install goes fairly smoothly anyway. Engine was listing to the right side and not tipped back to match the transmission. After a lot of jockeying to line up the two lower engine studs on the transmission bell housing, the engine was raised on the hoist effectively tipping it back. It slid in fairly far on the studs, and then a bit of wiggling and pressure at the 12:00 position got the two pins started. Had sanded and greased the pins prior. Install four upper bolts. Can't find the short bolt on the top, so use a power steering bracket bolt instead. Install four long bolts in lower portion of bell housing, plus two nuts on the lowest studs. Opted NOT to reseal trans pan. Will monitor fluid levels. Pan accessible with exhaust installed so will not have to drop exhaust for reseal. First start: cranked a long time w/o firing. Likely no fuel in rails. Cycled ign on and off 5-6 times to build up fuel pressure. Started and ran at low rpm for a short while, some chuffing and shaking/vibration of engine block that lessened. (In retrospect this shaking is likely due to bad O2 sensor wiring on RH, see below). Had coolant funnel installed. Did not get heat in cabin until temp had climbed quite a bit, but eventually had heat. Raced the engine 5-6 times then held at 2k rpm. Was checking trans fluid also so not a classic cooling system burp. Lower hose cold. Eventually cooling fans came on solid and temp climbing to 206. Shut down and capped. Next day topped off coolant, restarted. Heat in cabin came early. Raced engine as directed. Heat in lower hose, cooling fans cycling normally with temp dropping as expected. Shut down. Next start was later than evening, did a test drive with good cooling results, a bit of gurgling. Still fighting trans fluid levels. Auto trans shifted will on short test drive. Also did a burn in on new front brake pads, up to 40 mph with braking not to full stop, 5-6 times. Getting P0031 which is R side heater circuit on front sensor. O2 sensor itself is 1.6 ohms on tinned leads, open on gold leads. Suspect the heater ckt is on the tinned leads, which is normal reading. O2 sensors have 50k and 80k miles each. R side connector has two pins pushed out that are for heater ckt. Push pins back. Restart, now getting P0131 code. Engine idling rough. Swapped a spare O2 sensor on RH. Same P0131 code. Bought two new Denso O2 sensors from rock auto. New sensor on RH has same code. So now presuming there is a fault in the wiring harness. Either pinched something when installing the intake or the donor JDM engine harness had a preexisting fault. Found broken wire in RH engine harness connector, E47 on wiring diagram. Black wire, part of signal pair to ECM. Buzzed out to B21 connector at firewall. Harvest O2 connector from old engine harness and splice into new harness. Turns out that the signal pair is wired backwards from the drawing. Left as is. No more CEL codes. Three independant O2 sensor-related wiring harness problems with JDM donor harness (LH connector cut off, RH heater pins backed out, broken signal wire). Statistically, of all the potential problems with engine swap to have this type of concentration is bizarre. Transmission fluid: Having trouble getting trans fluid level measurement. Seems to be high, then low. Could be fluid residue getting on stick. Have already added about 4-5 quarts. From USMB: The only way I can get a reading is basically vehicle cold, start, shift through all gears on shifter, put in park pull stick, wipe, reinsert, (a few times, to get excess off stick) Then slowly insert stick, then slowly remove and look at both sides of stick holding it in front of the headlight. It should generally be somewhere in the cold range then. Soob says check it warm/hot but sheesh I just see fluid everywhere on all three soobs if I try it that way. Added about 2 additional quarts of wal-mart dex merc. Finally reading at low end of cold level on stick with engine running, after shifting through all gears, while cold. Next cold start still reading low, so added about 1/2 qt. Now reading just above high end cold.
  6. 5 points
    Hey guys, Joined about a month ago after having bought an EA81 hatch. Because of my rekindled love of old Subaru's I joined some facebook groups and happened to find this 86 Brat for sale. I've basically wanted to own a Brat forever, so I couldnt resist. So far I have resealed the oil pump and installed a new front crank seal, fixed the fan blower motor, installed a new dist cap and rotor, and put the original wheels back on with new trim rings. Planning to do the oil pan and valve cover gaskets maybe this weekend. I'd like to add jump seats at some point but otherwise Ill keep it stock. I have the original window sticker which is pretty cool. It has no rot and almost no rust, which is amazing since its always been in VA and PA. Interior is original and in excellent shape. Paint is original too. Only has 80k on the odo and runs great. Gets alot of attention and someone already offered to buy it, but Im keeping it.
  7. 5 points
    Dear friends, I am infinitely grateful for your interest in me, which I appreciate deeply. I've been in "offline mode" due to several reasons, but internet access is not exactly one of them, because despite living now in a rural area, in the high mountains of Honduras, there is plenty access to the web from different ways. I have been active on the internet since the late 1990s, and I have published my photographs that accompany my writings on repairs, since I started uploading them to Photobucket in 2003, I accumulated there, many photos (appropriately sorted in albums), which illustrated my write ups; so, the biggest demotivation in my life happened with the Photobucket fiasco, as I explained here: Also, after working for fourteen years in the same company, I lost my job (for being honest and do the right things), but also I was losing my health due to that job, which sent me to the hospital three times, so it was good, somehow, to leave that job forever... That situation finally lead us (my family and I) to move to a rural and quiet area of Honduras, far away from the hustle and bustle of big cities. I gave up my profession and now I manage a business where I have to distribute different construction materials and hardware, in trucks, from warehouses; where I have to take inventories, etc ... and I am extremely busy, with very little free time, since the job is practically non stop, except Sunday afternoons... Also, I travel often, I have had to drive through the seven countries of Central America, bringing parts and machinery, and carrying people too ... mainly in trucks, but sometimes in the car of my boss, and a couple of times in my Subaru "BumbleBeast" when the load is small. By the way, my Subie hasn't failed nor needed any repair since we came to live here, but timin' belts are about to reach a decade, under some sort of long-term experiment I've been doing with it... The quality of life is much better in the small towns of the high mountains of Honduras; people are more friendly and the downtown feels like being inside a big shopping mall, since there are restaurants, banks, pharmacies, clothes' stores, barber shops, electronics´stores, toy stores, etc, one after another, surrounding the different parks, and everything is so close that it is better to go and come on foot, than to use a car; but here you have green and blue mountains as background landscapes... My family has taken the move very well, but my wife, who is also a lawyer, gets bored sometimes and is thinking of restarting her career in this small town. Now we have a new member in the family, since my daughter adopted a golden Cocker Spaniel, which is very, very special... Mr. Honey Speaking of my daughter, I wrote the previous letter on Facebook, which was rightly reproduced here by "86BRATMAN", as an explanation to my absence from the social networks, because besides the demotivation from the photobucket fiasco, and the abounding senselessness from social media, now I have very little free time left daily, which I want to spend most of it with my daughter and my wife. I have many stories to tell and share with you and many new photographs that accompany them, which I don't know how to securely share 'em here... I am trying with "imgur.com" in this post. Photobucket was responsible for spoiling my writings from many years, all I could do with my past writings, was to create "offline" versions of my main writings on the most interesting and useful modifications that I have made to my beloved Subaru; same that are available for download, here: So, what limited my interaction here was the lack of time, plus the demotivation explained above; however, I hope I'll find out how to share the new photos I have taken, securely, here with you; and thus be able to write new stories... also I want to answer all your questions in the best way I could, (so please excuse me for any delay in answering); I hope I could find enough free time to visit here more often. I wish the best for you, receive a warm hug from Honduras, Kind Regards, greetings and Blessings. JesZeK.
  8. 5 points
    And here's some dodgy photos of the tool I made, looks rough but certainly gets the job done: Cheers Bennie
  9. 5 points
    Hey that's my SWAP! I did that swap for my Ex-girlfriend back in '14 or so. She sold it back in late '15. They gal who bought it called me once (from Lebanon, OR) So the story has gotten mixed up, cause I built it for my GF and then she sold it presumably to the gal you got it from. It's an EJ18 from an 93 Impreza. I did do a custom low line for the AC. Someones screwed with my wiring a bit. but all in all the A/C worked fine. The large bundle across the engine is Headlamp relay setup. No need for conduit. It's been that way for 5 years, it's fine. It has the Stock 5spd 4wd S/R, but it's in EJ cases so no adapter plate. If you need a clutch use a clutch for an Impreza
  10. 5 points
    some pic's of my 1978 brat. I am bought new in 1978 and bought the book end 2005 Baja for the wife in 2016
  11. 5 points
    Good to know the EJs are not going anywhere. Why EA? in no particular order, and not complete... Now that I have passed the 25 year mark, I will not deal with another car newer than 25 years old, just to avoid emissions hassles. For whatever reason, I just always have those crop up when I am already crazy busy. SO done with that. I never had an older / original Legacy, but we did have an 01 Forester for my wife. I could out maneuver it with my EA wagons, and all the newer versions are even bigger. Ok, didn't have to do the timing belts as often, but the DIY cost was nearly 5 times higher. Both of us can tell where the EA is on the road & parking a lot better than with the newer rounded cars. I can get bigger things into the back of my EA wagon than any of the newer models I've checked. Not by a lot, but a few items, it mattered. Do not want AWD forcing me to always run 4 identically worn tires. Bigger tires are more $ also, so not interested. I've also added lighting to my wife's Foresters, and now Impreza. [We replaced her 09Forester with an 09 Impreza recently, as she could not get used to the bigger rounder shape. Horrible time parking, etc.] What a PITA! all the wiring is hidden, even under the hood. Even though I am an electronics engineer [or maybe because I am one...] I don't want MORE computers to maintain and deal with in my vehicles. One for the ECU is ok, but that's enough. I don't drive tons of miles a year. I know the EA and have acquired or made all the tools I need to do nearly everything with them. Don't need to start over. It's now also just one of my hobby things - see how long I can keep running them. Because I can.
  12. 4 points
    I like Len's Club idea - it basically tells someone to keep moving along and look for another target. Yeah, I know they aren't 'perfect' and they can be defeated - but, criminals are lazy - too easy to find an easier target. Anything visible from the outside keeps them from even trying a door. Maybe print-up a fake parking violation to put under the wiper - knuckle-heads might think a cop or tow truck is in the area.
  13. 4 points
    Thank you so much for the warm welcome! Also thank you for the information, i didn't know that L series stuff won't fit my hatch. Hatchback currently has ea81 in it and ea71 as a spare in trunk (with twin carburetors). I haven't had time to pick up 4wd transmission for ea81 from the previous owner (i spoke to him about month ago to see how he was doing, he is 80 year old man who was sad he could not longer drive a car due health issues). But it will be big trouble finding rear end for it, i live in Estonia which is a really small country in Europe and here are almost NO old Subarus. I checked the vehicle registry and there were only 2 Leones and 1 Brat registered. Hatch has a mint interior it looks like brand new, i will try to get some pictures next time im visiting my country side house. I chose to build this L series wagon because doing projects the right way is time consuming and expensive (my main project is 86 Volvo 740). I had pretty much lost all my motivation to work on cars (hadn't done anything to my Volvo over a year) so i wanted to butcher this wagon together just to get my motivation back and work on it with no pressure. Since mice had eaten the wiring and ive always wanted to build rally style dash, i finally did it: Since the car came with no seat belts, i want to put in a harness so i built harness bar for it: Floor was really rusty so it was a challenge, i welded in some new sheet metal for the floor and added 6mm thick metal plates for the bar to mount. Transmission mounts were totally shot, one was broken up and transmission was super loose. I got these rubber mounts form hardware store and managed to make new mounts with exact same dimensions. Don't mind the purple paint, it was only paint i had in garage to prevent metal from rusting Today i got drum brake cylinders from rockauto. My order comes from 5 different warehouses so im expecting 4 more packages and brakes are done.
  14. 4 points
    was the fuel pump for sure. Runs like a champ now.
  15. 4 points
  16. 4 points
    Late update here, but I've been doing a lot of traveling recently and only today got this problem solved. I thought I'd update here for the sake of closure. The flywheel pilot bearing had partially come apart; all the ball bearings were still in place but the 'side' wall that covers the bearings was missing and a fragment of inner bearing race had broken off and wedged itself between the friction disc and pressure plate, preventing the two parts from being able to move independently, effectively making the friction disc and pressure plate into a single joined part. Therefore my symptom of pushing the clutch pedal, and seeing the cable move the top of the release fork, but it never actually releasing and letting me shift. I had a new clutch kit on hand today because I wasn't sure what I'd find in there, so I replaced the shattered pilot bearing and threw the new friction disc / pressure plate in as well, and she drives beautifully now.
  17. 4 points
    And way too tall and heavy to fit in the loyale. MAYBE if you used an entire Nissan front suspension. Maybe. Will NOT fit in the loyale with it's stock crossmember/suspension. Doesn't matter because obvious by the Redneckeery goin on in this thread, you will never swap in anything. Great job F-in up a car that's lasted in really nice condition for years. EGR lowers cyl temperatures. If you understood it, you'd have known it wasn't necessary to weld the intake side of that pipe if you've blocked off the port with the beer can. PCV removes corrosive gasses from the engine oil Hillholders are awesome. Only annoying to those who can't figure out how to use them. Coolant Temp sensor is possibly one of the MOST important sensor to making the car run right. You left the D-check connectors, but cut out the white, U-check connector that ACTUALLY IS THE PAIR THAT OUTPUTS STORED CODES!!! And now you won't be able to use the "clear memory" either. That requires BOTH sets of connectors. The 4wd transfer cannot handle 90hp in RWD for long, let alone 200hp. Guaranty you break it within 3 months. Especially if yer trying to "drift" That car will not start in the winter. It will probably be ruined by then anyhow. Oh wait, never mind, it's already ruined. But it's yer car so "tweek" on it all you want.
  18. 4 points
    Likewise, I made my own tool for the job. All tool steel, 2 pieces welded together. Big wrench handle to apply a BFH to when needed.
  19. 4 points
    New to the site, but not to Subarus. Here's the latest, 1989 XT6. Been wanting an XT since they came out. I remember seeing the commercials when I was getting my driver's license. Any other XT owners or officianado's please drop me a line, I'm sure I'll be needing advice or other knowledge somewhere along the way. Got this baby for CHEAP due to a cobbled up fuseable link on the clean battery power.
  20. 4 points
    Hello USMB family! It's Gloyale now FerGloyale After trying and tryting since hte site change, I was unable to recover my old account here. Don't have that ol' Earthlink or Charter or whatever the heck it was in 2004 ISP based email anymore! So I am back. Rocking some new subies in the stable, as well as the old favorites. I may not be as active as I once was on here......but likely I will be around quite a bit. If you are someone who I had PMs about getting parts from me please contact me, as I have lost all of those communications and contacts. Good to be back. Regards, FerGloyale
  21. 3 points
    Hopefully going to be firing up this project again this summer. Stay tuned.
  22. 3 points
    reboot them instead of replace them. or get a used one and reboot it.
  23. 3 points
    More probable the CTS, coolant temperature sensor, needs replaced.
  24. 3 points
    Replace the PCV valve. And stop using 20 weight. Run 5w40 synthetic. GD
  25. 3 points
    Hey everyone just wanted to post this here incase anyone else has this issue. I didn't see anything come up in my searches and figured it would be good if the process was documented....OEM part numbers and all. I'll keep it quick. Got my 88 GL Dual Range about 2 years ago now. Reverse lights have never worked and besides being dangerous it just bothered me. I finally figured it out! ****** PICTURES ARE LINKED FOR REFERENCE On the rear case of the transmission, about 7" in from the shifter rod, on the drivers side you'll find the Back Lamp Assembly. Looks like a bolt with 2 wires coming out of the side. This can be removed with a 19mm wrench. It's a bit tricky to get to the plug, you have to un-do two metal "clamps" that hold the wires for this assembly and others. The "clamps" are located between the top of the transmission and underbody of the car. Find someone with small hands to help you haha. Anyway, this switch has a little plastic piece that gets depressed when you shift into reverse, the circuit then closes and the reverse lights come on. I think there are two reasons for my reverse light failure. 1) plastic nub on switch worn and cannot produce a closed circuit. 2) wires were falling apart. (as you'll see below) This part can still be purchased new from the dealer (I just got on from my local Subaru Dealer) although some sites list that it is no longer in production. I paid $36 (can be got for cheeper, i've seen it for $25) Link to the schematic of the transmission is here, this one is for a turbo, which I do not have, but it's just about in the same position. Back Lamp Assembly is #5 on the diagram. Diagram > https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_1990_Loyale-WAGON-TURBO/_80160_6027483/MT--REAR-CASE/A11-120-01.html Can Purchase Here > https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/SWITCH-ASSEMBLY-BACK-LAMP/49242840/32005AA030.html It's interesting that this switch functions similarly to the Neutral Safety Switch. Actually they are just about identical (besides the plug ends)....makes me wonder if they can be interchanged....I did a bit of cross referencing and it looks like newer manual Subarus also have both of these switches, so if these part numbers go bad we might be able to pull from newer models. Images are from my old Back Lamp Assembly....as you can see it's toast.....
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