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I've done 3 joints in the last year or so. One on an '04 Outback, and the other a '00 Outback. Process should be the same for basically all Subarus. We've tried used ones here, most of them have worn joints...not worth the install time IMHO.Dorman makes an aftermarket shaft, same part number for '96-'04 Outback AT. I fished a donor shaft out of the scrap bin here at work with bad joints that came from an '07 4EAT Outback. I've measured it, and held it up under my car, and it looks like it should work, at least temporarily (front half was hardest to measure, looks like it might be a hair short, but I'm not worried about the slip yoke having a little less engagement for street use for a week).Rockford offers joints specifically to replace the staked in applications. Here's their application list for the 430-10 part (the Justy is the only Subaru found elsewhere in their list).http://www.rockforddriveline.com/media/documents/Vehicle_Fitment_430-10.pdfYou may notice it lists Legacy/Outback 1990-2009.Using parts interchange listings, and trying other vehicles on that list, I came up with a few other part numbers. Napa lists a UJ10430, although there was no availability. Autozone lists a 2-0430DL, of which they had 4 in their Hub store across town. I now have 2 of those sitting on my desk (they are greasable, btw). 1. The joint before I started, you can see some of the 8 little "stakes" being deformations in the outer yoke holding the caps in. 20180827_192114 by Numbchux, on Flickr I've seen 2 ways to do staked in joints (generally, not specifically Subaru), one is to grind the stakes out, and the other is to just use a press to push through them. In my experimenting on other shafts, it takes an enormous amount of force (easily the most I've ever done on my little 12 ton HF press), so I opted to grind first. High speed metal cutting bit on the dremel does a pretty good work down in the corners. 20180827_192401 by Numbchux, on Flickr While I had it out, I used the dremel to make a few light marks on the yoke and the shaft itself to ensure the orientation when it came time to reassemble. 20180827_192552 by Numbchux, on Flickr 2. Then over to the press, make sure to support the other end of the shaft pretty well. 20180827_192748 by Numbchux, on Flickr 3. Once it's pressed off to one side, the stakes become really clear (some of these are ground down, some are un-touched). 20180827_192926 by Numbchux, on Flickr 4. Flip it over and press it back all the way through to flatten those stakes. Then lay it with the opposite yokes supported (a vice works best for this), and pound on the yoke so those cups can be pushed out beyond the ears. Don't pound on the thin part at the top of the ears, and don't pound on the shaft tubing itself. 20180827_193255 by Numbchux, on Flickr 5. Flip over and repeat the other way until those cups are pushed as far out of the yoke as possible. It should get to the point where the cross of the ujoint can be removed from the yoke (if those cups are damaged, you might need to sneak a punch passed the cross to push the cup out further, just make sure not to damage the yoke). 20180827_193408 by Numbchux, on Flickr 6. Then pound the cups out the rest of the way: 20180827_193515 by Numbchux, on Flickr Rotate the shaft 90*, and repeat steps 1-6 to remove the other 2 caps, and remove the joint completely. 7. Now switch to a softer dremel bit (wire wheel or sanding drum work well) to clean up the inside of the yoke, you want to smooth everything out without taking off really any material. You'll also want to run a flat file across the inner surface of those ears, as the new joints will be held in place by snaprings against this surface. 20180827_195537 by Numbchux, on Flickr 8. Now to start preparing the new joint. The four cups need to be removed from the center cross, inside those cups are needle bearings which have to stay in place, and the only thing holding them there is grease. They *should* be pregreased with assembly lube for this purpose, but I don't trust it, so I hold the caps in place by hand and gently pump some fresh grease through them: 20180827_194557 by Numbchux, on Flickr 9. Then pull the caps off. You'll notice I removed the grease zerk from the one cap to protect it from damage, this is optional, but IMHO a good idea. 20180827_194833 by Numbchux, on Flickr 10. Put the cross in the middle of the yoke, and one of the caps in from the outside. You want to hold the cross inside the cap as tight as possible as you press on it to help keep those needle bearings in place. 20180827_194903 by Numbchux, on Flickr 11. Then press it in well past it's final resting place. This simplifies putting on that snapring, and aligning the opposing cup. 20180827_201328 by Numbchux, on Flickr 12. Put the snapring on the one cup, then put the opposite cup from the other side, and again slide the cross into the new cup as you press it in. This is a bit tricky, as you have to get it pressed in far enough to get the second snapring on, but you don't want to put too much pressure on the bearings to damage them (although, the cross should bottom out in the cups before the needle bearings bear the brunt of the weight) Back to step 10 to finish the other half of the joint, taking care to reassemble in the same orientation that you started with. Install the grease zerk (if you removed it), and grease. 20180827_203215 by Numbchux, on Flickr Now flip the shaft and do it all again at the other end. Install in the car, and enjoy!

1982-83 Nissan 200SX, (maybe?): These cross over to 88921540 not 88921685. who knows but the pinout may be in different order(?) https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=49874&cc=1208562&jsn=942 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1983,200sx,2.2l+l4,1208573,ignition,ignition+control+module+(icm),7172 1984 & up NA & turbo Nissan 200sx is same module as optical EA82, Std Prod #LX653. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Control-Module-WVE-BY-NTK-6H1206-fits-83-85-Nissan-720-2-4L-L4-/123276988099?hash=item1cb3e18ec3 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Control-Module-WVE-BY-NTK-6H1217-fits-83-85-Nissan-720-2-0L-L4-/263839904510?hash=item3d6e1572fe Maybe go look into the NGK/NTK search for crossover to 88921653...

Hi, my name is Jeff. I just joined ultimate subaru. Thank you

this is my 1989 Subaru GL I bought this car on November 13th 2016. it had 76,000 miles on it and I now have over 88,000 miles. I got many things fixed on the car such as a major transmission fluid leak, oil leaks (I have not fixed the head gasket leak, but it is very small), replaced belts, and alternator. I have to get a new ac compressor as well because I am sick of having no air conditioning. the summers are hellish in Georgia. I daily drive this car and when its in the shop it sucks because then I have to uber places and I hate not having my car. I am looking forward to sharing more on this website and I hope you all like my little car!

13 Sun, Gotta make a little bit of room in my garage for my neglected G35, I lowered the car down on all 4's for a Test drive. The track width and wheel size is crazy compared to the front. Cant test the 4wd in this orientation but I can still drive it. Great news! Drives just fine so far, had it up to about 40 mph no weird sounds wobbles or anything abnormal. Of course I wasn't driving it like a grandma and started tossing it around as much as I could to see if I could feel irregularities or weak points. Seems fine so far and the brakes work amazing. I will be doing something a little different for the front end swap of course he width will match.. stay tuned! P.s the last image shows exactly where the rear wheel sits because of the pump in width.

I just changed the spark plugs on my son's '98 Legacy EJ25D engine. Like FerGloyale said, remove the washer tank and swing it out of the way for the driver's side, and remove the airbox cover along with the MAF and intake tube to gain access to the passengers side. All I had was a 2" wobbly extension for my 3/8" ratchet and it was about perfect for the job, although a fraction of an inch longer extension might have made it easier. I wish the EJ25's had the plugs angled like the EJ22's.

Thanks for the reply. I've done timing belts/chains on V6, V8 and I4 engines from both domestic and import manufacturers so if there's nothing really strange about these it shouldn't be a problem. I generally research a few discussion boards before diving into repairs on anything to get the general consensus on best techniques, shortcuts, and best parts to use.

If it's cheap - then it probably has a head gasket leak. Summary - Check headgaskets, rust, and torque bind - drive in tight circles in a dry paved lot (steeering wheel turned to full lock right or left) and see if the car is "slowing down", or binding. And it'll need all new timing components. Details: Unless it's a really obvious situation like they just won a new car on The Price is Right, you should be skeptical of headgaskets on any legacy/outback, particularly if it's cheap and definitely if it's cheap and from a dealer. Rust is also a huge deterrent in your area - check the underneath like the rear suspension, brakes, and exhaust which could look like scrap metal. At 10+ years old and 150k it needs a new timing belt kit. It doesn't matter if the timing belt was replaced, the pulleys and tensioner can fail as well and should be replaced with an AISIN kit for approx. $250 plus labor. I have two 2008 and 2009 legacy's I'm getting rid of but if "value in terms of price" is your goal these won't be your ticket.

I’d replace the igniter and the coil. A dead coil will kill the igniter. Ask me how I know... Cheers Bennie

Using parts interchange listings, and trying other vehicles on that list, I came up with a few other part numbers. Napa lists a UJ10430, although there was no availability. Autozone lists a 2-0430DL, of which they had 4 in their Hub store across town. I now have 2 of those sitting on my desk (they are greasable, btw).

The performance sucks. GD

Awesome write up! Thank you for taking the time to do this

What I did, was went to NAPA and got the two largest toggle switches, and the largest spring push button. I mouted then up under the left of the sterring wheel where that little "tray" is to put things. one switch runs the ignition, the other the accessorys, the push button starts the engine. I wasn't gunna pay the money for a new one. I love it. if some one does steel it it will take some time for them to figure it out. I do have the key so can lock the doors. hope that helps

Both are FWD and am fine with keeping the car that way, it's just a commuter for when my Nissan is in pieces(A bi-monthly ritual it seems) I've been scouring and haven't seen much but will keep looking, probably just not looking the right areas! Sweet, that is all pretty reassuring. I wasn't aware they made 5 speeds for the EA81, pretty new to Subie's this old. I'll spend some time seeing if I can find any EA81 box's, though the EA82 box I'm looking at is tempting being 91K miles and relatively affordable Thank you both for your help!!

MINT! Cheers Bennie

I have a story to tell about one of my adventures. I had bought a project car that was not running when I bought it and I didn't know much history about it. I was doing an engine swap because the original was seized, I had an engine from a 2000 Outback that I wanted to put in a 2001 Outback. No big deal I had done several before. I had done the headgaskets already on the donor engine so I just needed to just swap the cam gears, crank gear and intake manifold and some minor modification to the breather hoses in the area of the PCV valve no big deal. So I stick the replacement engine in and go to bolt up the flex plate and it isn't lining up the bolt holes are about 1/4 inch off. Come to find out the previous owner had put in a transmission out of a forester and the torque converter was a slightly smaller diameter. I had to take the engine back out to swap flex plates. I was a little worried until I did the research, I wasn't sure if a forester tranny was the right one but found out the final drive ratio is the same so it all worked out.

Yep. Too bad they're all cores.... These ones work just fine, though 20180610_132310 by Numbchux, on Flickr I might have a problem. Thank Bob my wife doesn't mind.

You already had a few New Years drinks Jono?? Happy New Year mate! Bottoms up! Bennie

Oem or Fel Pro head gaskets Oem only intake gaskets and the o rings for the oil channel to the cam towers. I have always re used the head bolts. If any were really rusty, swapped them for better ones from a spare engine. Heads must be resurfaced to remove the marks from the fire rings. Search for post apocalyptic resurfacing. New water pump and thermostat. Verify that your radiator is in top shape. Fins still attached to the tubes, etc. Other most important thing.... Idle it up to normal operating temperature. Shut down and go to work carefully loosening the intake manifold bolts and head bolts. This deep heating really lowers the chances of breaking them off or stripping the threads. Use a space heater and heat gun to reheat it or keep it hot until you get to the head bolts. Work them back and forth gradually if any are sticky. If you are careful, you can feel the difference between springy and yeilding.

Love this old girl, 383k and still kicking. She isn’t much on looks but doesn’t quit either. Weberized and 6 lug swap since I got her, changed the motor mounts the other day and all 4 fell out in two pieces. For all I know they were original!

yes if you put an EJ engine in also.

When purchased Getting it high....

My 89 Wagon. It snowed the day we picked it up. 5MT- 4wd D/R transfer( i think, no push button, lever with to positions).

Excuse my weird expression but I took my 82 wagon to cars and coffee this sunday!