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I'm sure others will have some good suggestions; but I would first inspect your plugs and wires, see if they are good, see if they have oil or have been running hot. Also, your knock sensor, I would pull it and inspect for cracks, make sure to torque to spec when re-installing. Also, if you haven't done so yet, since you reconnected the O2 Sensor, you might try disconnecting the battery for a bit to reset the ECM. I'd also check your PCV valve, and air filter. It sounds a lot like either bad plugs, or a vacuum leak of some kind. What color was the smoke coming from the tailpipe? Also, how does your coolant look?

Yep. Installed a new battery, it was 6+ years old though it did charge back up fine. Used genius boost for starting, pulled day time running light fuse, tried to avoid brake pedal (to limit rear tail light usage). Made it home, put it on charger, drove to work today with no alt. I'll keep doing that until the ordered one arrives in the mail. 6 cylinder subaru's use a three wire alternator (4 cylinders are 2 wire and simpler) with reference voltage the ECU uses to affect alternator charging. In rare cases the alternator will put out less, like 9 volts, due to poor grounding compromising that reference signal. Measure the voltage at the battery posts and ground via the alternator body. If there's a large voltage difference there's a reference wire grounding issue. It's really rare and I assumed it was the alternator, but it was a good opportunity for me to experientially learn to test for it. I've worked on some triple digit number of Subaru's so there's a reasonable chance I'll see it some day and part of my seemingly irrelevant questions.

Check all the connections, clean and tight. Load test on the battery. Have the Alt Tested.

always check and refresh ground connections on older OBD cars. possible dead spot in TPS range less likely would be a timing belt slip....?

All good suggestions. Also make sure the IAC hose coming from the airfilter box is correctly installed as well as the vacumm lines on the passenger strut tower! 1+ for comments from leagion.

1) this is the vehicle speed sensor. You can leave it disconnected. This wire connects to a Reid switch in the back of the instrument cluster. I’ve heard of a GPS unit being used too. 2) These are for the rad fan relay. I only remember one wire for my Gen1 loom, yours might have a two speed fan setup that’s a little more complicated. But you might be able to run a fan off each relay with the ECU triggering them as needed. Hopefully someone else will know for certain what’s what here. Mine is an ‘88 series 2 and had the Reid switch behind the cluster in a carb model, if yours is a series 1 you might not have this, best to pull the cluster and have a look. 3) Neutral wire I believe you can leave it disconnected. I recall leaving my one disconnected and don’t have any issues. All the best with it! Ensure you finish off all the things you want finished before you start driving, otherwise they’ll always be lingering! Your very close now as you know Cheers Bennie

The SPFI is quite reliable. I would adapt it to an EA81 if you have the engine and spare parts to do so. It's been done and documented 15+ years ago. GD

Overfilling oil may have overloaded your catalyst of damaged your oxygen sensor. Has your fuel mileage changed? If engine oil was overfilled, you can probably find evidence of it in the vent lines and airbox.

Well, also, looking at the plugs might give some clues as to what is happening. Also, I've had very nice looking wires that were leaking spark...it doesn't always look obvious. I used to look at the engine in the dark while running, it makes it really easy to spot. Also might test the resistances on your ignition coil to see if it's gone bad. Also, I've had problems with a partially stuck PCV valve that presented similarly.

It's almost always tire pressure or a failing tire sensor. Check to make sure there are no recalls or TSB's about reprogramming the TPMS for your year/model Is there an aftermarket sensor in any of the tires? I've seen good results with aftermarket but it would be expected for them to have higher failure rates. I highly doubt this is the case but if you're speculating 80 mph is a causation and not a correlation: The only physical way I could see speed causing this is if on insanely hot roads with over pressure tires - the heat soak at 80 mph causes the pressure to just exceed the range expected by the TPMS. I think it more likely that a TPMS sensor battery is just at the cusp of failing and performing worse at those higher speeds/G forces.

Also just to clarify I just work here all my tools are here lol. I was just trying to show my suby some love.

A flashing TPS light indicates a SYSTEM problem, not necessarily tire pressure. How old is your car? It is possible the TPS sensors in one (and eventually all) of your wheels has croaked or is weak. The batteries that operate them have a finite lifespan. Just my 2 bucks

Disconnect it and ground the lead - does the gauge go all the way to hot? You got the right thermistor. If it doesn't try the other one. If it still doesn't you have gauge or wiring problems. GD

So I put the orange clock in and it's been working perfectly so far, but I think I know why they went to the green clock, it is almost impossible to read when it's sunny out, the orange numbers just completely wash out. You either have to shade it with your hand or head in a different direction.

Yep!

How much oil is in the gearbox? You can check this on the gearbox dipstick. If you’ve got too much in there that could cause drag through the gearbox, but not in the way you said the engine behaves between 2500 and 3000 revs. It could be a coincidence that you did the oil changes and now you’ve detected this issue. That or your Subi is pissed it was forced into some maintenance at a Honda place Other issues it could be: a dirty MAF, needing a new air filter (unlikely to be root cause but a clean filter is always good!), dirty TPS contacts, and that’s about all I can think of atm. Laegion covered many good points to start with too. Cheers Bennie

I would be using LED as well. Thanks for the input

Sump in and a few mods to it. Fixed starting problem, injector not spaying correctly, next wheel alignment then a drive.

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