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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/24/19 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    PM me I do OBD II for $180 + shipping Will come with heat shrunk, weather proof Fusible link for main battery connection. All other wires will be labeled and long enough for you to route as you wish to IG., Fuel Pump, tach, speedo, CEL, Etc. * stripping harness only. If you can bring the car to Corvallis I can install harness for labor time rates.
  2. 3 points
    Subaru heat shields are notorious for rattling. And your symptoms (low RPMs, light-load, decelerating) seem to point at heat shields. BUT, heat shield will also rattle with the car stationary. And the rattling can be quite loud when the engine is started. If you cannot create the rattle at zero speed, then it is most likely not the heat shields.
  3. 3 points
    Half way worked with old fans. Did test ground to: Old fans----Pass to left pin-1.2 ohm -- center pin-0 ohm Driver to left-.5 ohm --center--1.0 ohm known good fans----Pass to left pin- .5 ohm---center-1.0 ohm Driver to left- .5 ohm --center-1.0 ohm Conclusion? Bad fan holding signal to ground, and lighter fuse blown. YMMV Thought I would send this to add to the body of knowledge if it helps.
  4. 3 points
    Installed the new aftermarket rear cat. Ran it without connecting it to the resonator pipe. Power restored! Loud! Now it makes sense compared to how quiet it was when I ran with the restricted rear cat disconnected...it was muffled without any mufflers attached, due to low, restricted flow. Hooked up the rest of the exhaust and it runs mostly normal, no codes, power restored. Stumbled a bit when rolling to a stop, assuming that it hasn't learned how to idle just yet. Going to clear the ECU anyway by disconnecting the battery, just to start fresh since its recent history includes operating with restriction. So about $750 later we have new aftermarket front and rear cat and both O2 sensors. Rest of exhaust is original. If I had to do this again I would start by disconnecting at the center spring flange and run it with open pipes. If its not loud enough to annoy the neighbors with the spring flange disconnected there is a restriction somewhere toward the engine. And then remove pipes one at a time toward the engine.
  5. 2 points
    All USDM EJ cars the fan is controlled by the ECU. Old EA cars have an actual thermoswitch
  6. 2 points
    I have measured MANY main lines, and short of a brand new factory case, they are virtually always out of spec. I tore down a 24k mile 2014 WRX block and the main line was way out of spec..... and when I say out of spec I mean *I* will not assemble them with the specs I measured. I will not assemble the case if I can't get all the mains between 0.0010" and 0.00125". My personal opinion, and probably several of you will disagree, is that Subaru engine blocks are essentially disposable and really shouldn't be rebuilt. According to the manual if the main line is out of spec it's scrap. There's not even a Subaru approved machining solution to this situation. We have a work around for this but you can only do it once, maybe twice before the oil pump doesn't bolt on anymore. Then you have the dowel pin situation. Once the block has been assembled and disassembled half a dozen times for inspection, machine work, etc, the dowel pin mating holes in the block get loose enough to allow misalignment of sometimes as much as 0.0005".... now what happens to a main bearing oil clearance that was at 0.0010" (that's 0.0005" on either side of the crank) when the block halves are misaligned during assembly by 0.0005"? Think about it. Mull it over for a second. How do you assure the case halves are aligned when there's a crank in the way of doing any measurement? There's ways.... they are trade secrets as far as I'm concerned. GD
  7. 2 points
    Good morning...I am on other car enthusiast forums for my Acura and my Miata, and find them very helpful and informative. I just bought a 2013 Impreza Premium Sport for my son who will be 16 in a few weeks. I'm here to learn from the experts, and long time owners. These forums are invaluable for car owners, and I look forward to learning.
  8. 2 points
    If you can't figure out how to fixture the case such that you can remove the case half bolts I conclude you have no business doing so and there is nothing in there you can successfully repair. Lay down the tools and step away from the precision engineering. GD
  9. 2 points
    you've already removed the oil pan and pickup tube? it should lie flat, normal upright position on the table. if there's not enough leverage, put it on a carpet floor and step on it as you unbolt.
  10. 2 points
    Get the Raybestos Opti-Cal brand new calipers. No core, and they are brand new castings. Really nice product with proper fitment to the bleeders, and they are coated: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8466968&cc=1430723&jsn=414 Bosch Quietcast pads: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6130518&cc=1430723&jsn=489 Raybestos Element3 coated rotors: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6410568&cc=1430723&jsn=537 Centric is good also: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9154660&cc=1430723&jsn=539 This is what I sell my customers. I have zero comebacks for our brake work. GD
  11. 2 points
    If someone tries to lowball you, mention that 96 is arguably the best naturally aspirated ej22 made. The only one that is non interference with the adjustable lifters. And obd2. The only other obd2 is the 95 and that one has the hydraulic lash adjusters, which i prefer. But some people are weird and like a subaru that dosen't tick when cold haha! I pumped the hlas back up and she finally started ticking 10,000 miles later lol Good luck on the sale. Try here before the CL dirtbags
  12. 2 points
    Heads up! I just seen a 1986 L line subaru at the Pull and Pay in Auroras website. i will try to go scope it out tomorrow. its only been there 1 day. Hopefully theres tons of good parts.
  13. 1 point
    Used cars are priced outrageously up here . It just passed emissions - show positive points and don’t disclose crap. Your price is as expected for what it is and the location. These nice folks don’t know Fairfield County. Maybe take some off to a negotiator but not much. You’re selling “AS IS”. It drives , passed emissions. Right there it’s worth $1500 Brakes have to be done all the time. Screw dumping money into it. But if you feel too guilty about the brakes - do the front rotors , pads , and calipers refreshed. Moments like this I would get aftermarket and just be sure to lube the spots you should. And be sure the pads are able to slide easily enough. Sometimes the aftermarket pads need grinding to clear the caliper bracket. Those wagons with automatic AWD ride so nice in the snow! Good luck with it. Just ignore everything I said if I show up to buy it. LOL The great $500 Beater has just about vanished from the northeast.
  14. 1 point
    The older, lower power engines I don't believe have enough power to oval the main lines. But these engines are so cheap in good used condition that rebuilding them isn't even close to economically viable. 2.5's and especially the turbo models develop enough cylinder pressure to distort the crank and over time push the aluminum of the case halves around. Remember cast aluminium has the density and machining properties of Oak. Literally the machining feeds and speed are virtually identical for the two materials. How many times do you want to rebuild an engine made from a material that (for the purposes of strength considerations) is effective indistinguishable from dead tree carcass? Seriously rebuilding these engine blocks is a $hit show and you are ALMOST ALWAYS better served in both time and money by buying a new set of case halves from Subaru ($950), and a new crankshaft ($275). And don't get me started on the non-pin located connecting rods used in the NA's. Those things are awful about assembly repeatability. GD
  15. 1 point
    I knew you were the man for this one.
  16. 1 point
    That depends on the auto. Manuals suffer from clutch replacements, fluid changes, rear input shaft bearing failures, and center diff failures. Really the 4EAT is a better trans. Lower maintenance cost, and smarter with a computer to assist traction. GD
  17. 1 point
    @sparkyboy I'll probably pass this time, only cause I'm very partial to the 4 spoke. Thanks for taking the time to check.
  18. 1 point
    96 is exempt from the readiness monitors and will pass even if it says not ready which will fail later models. You got a good inspector who knew that. Cars like this can vary quite a bit based on local market dynamics. I’d say $1,500 roughy. If you wait long enough you can probably get $2k for it. If you want a quick sale probably closer to $1k.
  19. 1 point
    Exactly that. Wearing the inside edges of the tires quickly.
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    While you’ve got the trans out, shove a new rear main seal on the back of the engine And replace the oil/air separator plate if it’s plastic. Cheers Bennie
  22. 1 point
    That could play into it. Bajas are distinctive in brat reminicence, two tone, two door, bed, yellow, and some with a turbo hood. tribeca is distinctive in nothing.
  23. 1 point
    Well, Subaru made them for about 8 years according to Wikipedia which was twice as long as the Baja. Maybe the Baja just stands out more because the Tribeca looks just your average crossover vehicle.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Second Part: Things you Should Know, before attempting to Lift your Subie: As I stated above in the First Part, I used lift blocks on the Struts and also on the Engine's crossmember of my Subie, to level it up the front, because the rear got a 2" lift with the Toyota shock absorbers + Honda coil springs. You must be Aware that there are some things that changes and / or might require certain amount of Modifications to work Properly, once you get your third gen Subaru Leone (EA82) Lifted, and those are usually untold on the Forums; the majority of things that needs to be modified, are in the FRONT of the Subie, so here I'll address that Area. For a Mixed style usage, like I do on my "BumbleBeast" being my Daily Driver on week days (60%) and Weekend Offroader Warrior (40%) the best lift is the one achieved by Lifting the Body two inches, and increasing the overall diameter of the Wheels another two inches; so it gains a total of 4" lift, but usually such lift is known as the 2" Lift. Going Beyond a 2" body lift means to loose stability and the Rear tires will get abnormally closer to the Body in front of them, also the front tires will get closer to the body in the rear of them, which usually requires modifying the body structure, and I don't like that idea, unless you'll not use the Subaru as Daily Driver anymore, only as offroader. Lifting two inches the Body, requires 2" strut top blocks, but despite that many USMB members doesn't drop the engine's Crossmember, in order to gain more Ground Clearance, to Drop it is Really Needed, unless you don't care of running your Subie with an increased amount of stress angle on the Axles, Steering & suspension parts, which usually means to wear axles ~ 10X faster, and having steering issues, alignment issues, and driveability issues. I strongly suggest to Drop the Engine's Crossmember 1½" if you're using 2" strut top Blocks, so you will remove the added Stress from the Suspension and Steering parts, while keeping the axles in a much closer angle to the Factory specs; this will keep the overall Geometry closer to stock specs; so you'll loose Ground Clearance, but You'll gain to maintain the Reliability and Maneuverability that the car had, prior to the Lift. Also, you'll need to drop the Rear Differential, to keep the Rear axles in a closer to Stock angle. What is Untold, is that if you Drop the Engine's Crossmember, five things will Happen: 1) In those EA82's with cooling fans driven by the Waterpump pulley, you must remove the surrounding Frame for the Fan, which is attached to the Radiator; otherwise the Fan's blades will hit it, damaging the Fan and Waterpump. 2) You must lengthen the Steering Shaft, I solved that problem by using one that is already lengthened from Factory, it came from a 1992 Legacy and was two inches longer than the EA82 one, but having same spline count and measurements. 3) The Shifter's Linkage will also be working on a stressed angle, and since it is attached to the Body with a piece of metal that has a Vibration's dampening Rubber cube, usually that rubber cube breaks... ...and the Shifter Drops... I solved that, by Welding a Metal Cube instead: 4) The whole drivetrain goes Backwards and inch (also that stressed the Rubber cube), so, the Shifter gets one inch to the Back, and even the Muffler's tip will get one inch farther from the rear Bumper. Here you can see how it moved an inch, this plate is not Centered anymore: It is Solved by Modifying the above pictured plate, like this: and also by Bending this part that I showed above, from each side, see: But then, the Cover for the Center console, where the squared (outer) Rubber boot goes covering the shifting stick, up to the shifter knob, will feel like is not centered anymore, but still will work; however I modified such center console's cover: but it is Not really necessary. 5) The jack to lift the vehicle will no longer serve anymore, barely lifting the tire from the paved roads due to the body lift, and even worse in some terrains, such like those unpaved roads where you go offroading; the original Jack can't free the tires, not even at the its maximum stretching; so you will need to carry a wooden block to sit the Jack, which is Dangerous, or Weld to the Jack a metal spacer on its base; or even better: get another, higher Jack. That last thing is what I did: I got a Jack out from a Nissan Frontier, which works perfectly in the Subie and fits in the compartment for the jack in the trunk of my Subaru, This one: After all these Modifications are done, the Lifted car really Feels Natural, and Awesome. Please check the two following web links to two different Discussion Threads regarding these suspension modifications; they has Further information, more Detailed photos and explanations, also feel free to ask Questions on those Discussion threads: Rear Modifications Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/130950-suspension-improvements-for-subaru-loyale/ Front Modifications, Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113907-lookin-for-a-front-lil-lift/page-2 If you find this information useful, don't forget to let me know by hitting the "Like" Button I Hope this Ideas could be Helpful. Kind Regards.