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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/30/20 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    WELP. I love when its a really dumb solution that I can only smack my own self for.... I accidentally swapped the return and feed fuel hoses underneath the fuel filter.... Was a great feeling and a slap once i figured that out. Ford fuel pump is very loud and my car has been driving so-so since its been up today. My battery is draining due to the new pump and probably just a failing battery (after being subjected to 30+ tries to start the car to no avail). Tonight ended with the GF and I stranded in the grocery store parking lot. Tried to jump the battery with my mobile jumper pack and also tried jumping from a car but the battery does not want to even keep a charge. Hopefully new battery tomorrow changes everything. Thank you to everyone who helped me figure out my issues. VERY quick and insightful responses. Now i know to take it slow and take pictures before I tear everything up.
  2. 5 points
    I hate to do this, but time to fire up the old search engines. Been documented many many many many many many many many many times. There are probably thousands of different methods and combinations. Hints: Your '87 GL-10 is an EA82 chassis. Motor mounts are the same for all EJ engines (as far as how they bolt to the engine crossmember). "Somebody" spent an enormous amount of their life compiling an EJ swap manual over 10 years ago, while it focuses on the simpler SOHC EJ22, a DOHC turbo version will be very similar. There have been STi versions of the WRX model for 26 years globally, and 16 years in the US. While the mechanical challenges of fitting it in your car are basically all the same (To date, they all use EJ series engines), there's a huge variation in these engines. If you want more specific answers, ask more specific questions. Presumeably your GL10 is already turbo, if not, you'll need a turbo engine crossmember or custom exhaust. Spend a couple dozen hours studying all the EJ-swapped EA82 cars, even the simple EJ18 and EJ22 ones (and of course, the turbo ones). Then spend another couple dozen hours studying turbo swaps into base model Imprezas and Legacies.
  3. 5 points
    awesome, glad you got it, that's the point! no tow, have a party! you're welcome...not that my suggestions probably helped but collectively we appreciate hearing you got it!
  4. 3 points
  5. 3 points
    Not normal. Electronic ignition uses pulses from the distributer or SPFI Module to fire the coil. If the engine is not turning, no pulses, no current through the coil, no heat. There should be battery voltage on the + and - of the coil. The coil bracket should have a power transistor (ignitor) mounted on it? If so, it is probably shorted. You can unplug it and test it with an OHM Meter. Put the meter on the diode symbol if it has one, otherwise use the lowest OHM setting. The transistor has three terminals one is ground. Put the black probe on ground. You might see 75 on one pin, If you find a very low reading on the other terminal, it is toast. If you get no short on the transistor, the only other thing that could turn the transistor on would be a voltage leak that should not be there from the SPFI module. The diagram is for an 89. The transistor works like a switch. An input pulse turns it on and connects the coil negative to ground and when the pulse turns off, the coil will produce a spark.
  6. 2 points
  7. 2 points
    XT is a whole different body. DL/GL have manual retracting antenna on the a-pillar. XT has it on the rear fender.
  8. 2 points
    future reference, a flathead screwdriver in the seam of the cone washer usually pops it out without drama.
  9. 2 points
  10. 2 points
    No washers. Here's the money question - why are you measuring the bolt? If it's because you have mixed up bolts, count and make sure the number of matching bolts equals the available slots. Post a pic of the bolt(s) in question. Measure again, 1 to 2 threads of engagement is a tiny amount. I've installed hundreds of that exact bolt on countless subarus with no length or install issues. This is highly unlikely and would require significant material to bottom the bolt, but If the heads intake mating surface, or intakes head mating surface, have been filed or resurfaced or cut that would shorten the bolt path.
  11. 2 points
    Another thing I have found that helps avoid snapping those old bolts - heat the entire block up to near normal operating temperature. It's aluminum so it is very hard to heat just an area. It took a good space heater and a heat gun. but it makes a big difference. When I have a run able engine to deal with those bolts, or head bolts, I just run it. I have removed some VERY stuck bolts using this, and not broken one since I discovered this trick.
  12. 2 points
    I had a problem where my starter would just click sometimes and not start. Ended up installing a 12v relay to the starter signal wire then pulling power off the batter and sending that to the starter via the relay. Fixed my issue.
  13. 2 points
    Also picked up this reproduction Omega badge courtesy of the NZ old school Subaru FB page. Actually better than the original, as the original was just painted on and this is a proper badge! 3D printed to the original design.
  14. 2 points
    The 2 indicators operate on totally different systems. The gauge and sender work together. The switch and light work together. If you want both they gave to be electrically seperate, not combined. As far EA82 powered cars go, they had one or the other, I have never seen one with both. They used the same wire in the engine harness, but different sender, and different end point in the dash.
  15. 2 points
    That's in the ball park. The new owner will be looking at 1200 - 3000 to get it back on the road.
  16. 2 points
    12.1 is very low, almost totally discharged. Links? If you mean the fusible links, get proper ones, that is a fire hazard.
  17. 2 points
    I hope you get that pump/battery issue sorted now. I bet you were driving around like before you got stuck in the car park! Cheers Bennie
  18. 2 points
    the lower connector drawings are the correct pin orientations... the wiring diagram connectors are laid out only for ease of drawing them.. do NOT use them for pin orientation.
  19. 2 points
    To the extent that they are all old and a predominant majority have been subject to some type of headgasket attention by replacement or additive campaign (particularly the ones you're looking at) - this doesn't much matter and what everyone said is practically relevant. But it's also somewhat misleading depending what and why you're comparing. All EJ's have headgasket issues and "headgasket mileage" isn't a relevant indicator for purchase between two competing EJ25's. 00-04 EJ25's commonly failed under their existing 36,000 mile warranty and all were offered a free additive campaign and 100,000 mile extended headgasket warranties. 00-04's leak, usually coolant externally, and progressively get worse over long periods of time. They are less likely to leak oil, but can. You can drive them 100,000 miles just topping the coolant off, so they're not all that concerning. Of course shops would just say "headgasket" and people freak out, and to their defense, many shops may not have known that this was a very slowly propagating failure. And we are just post-EJ25D which had eggregious, stranding, catrastrophic headgasket failures so some people/shops would be gun shy. Anyway - so the 00-04's frequently have issues but they're not that alarming at all. They rarely can overheat as a lone symptom, but it's rare/not common. 05-09 are basically the same except they leak oil and it usually get worse much more quickly. Driving them more than 20k with an existing oil leak may or may not be a big deal. But again - no stranding issues or anything. They are also prone to a low rate of lower end bearing failures because you can drive with low oil without any symptoms and destroy the lower ends. 5 years ago I could pick one up every week with a blown engine. The 00-04's usually leaked coolant and would offer incentive or symptoms to keep it topped it off, most people aren't going to drive overheating, steaming, etc. The 05-09's are more risky if people don't know or try to limp them along and forget or dont' check oil. So to put this all in perspective when buying, I don't consider mileage relevant at all. It is slightly, but it's no more order of magnitude than anything else is susceptible to higher mileages...fluids, trans, bushings, rust...: 1. All of what I said is true of factory installed original HG's. Replaced HG's have more variable failure modes. Aftermarket gaskets have been known to fail in months, seen it many times (not personally but someone else doing it). 2. In terms of headgaskets the 00-04 are superior. It's the most benign headgasket issue due to it being more obvious, having more symptoms, and Subaru was more proactive towards them early on. And they get worse more slowly over long periods of time - giving you 10's of thousands of miles and years to plan to repair it. So buy one that's currently not leaking or repaired properly with Subaru gaskets and heads resurfaced, and you can almost plan on 50k of never having to worry about it. 3. If they've never had bad oil leaks or had HG's replaced early and you have a great feeling it never ran low on oil - they're also a fine candidate. But verifying that is kind of tough. You just don't want one that ever ran low on oil. Those are asymptomatic and risky. Or just buy one with a blown engine and see if Subaru still sells the $2,000 OEM engines. $1,000 rust free blown engine, $2,000 new Subaru engine, $1,500 to install it - and you're got a rust free zero miles engine with 36,000 mile warranty for $4,500.
  20. 1 point
    My 83 GL threw a rod and I picked up an EA81 just like the one that finally quit on me. It has 50,000 original miles on it but it has been in a barn for 25 years. My question is, besides resealing it and replacing everything rubber what else would I need to do to get this motor back in action? Should I replace the components with the ones that were in service a few weeks ago? That’s the original alternator I’d like to use it. Thanks
  21. 1 point
    Pretty sure those are still there. Thanks for the bump. Ahh , what a great year , eh ?? For sure I’ll ship and will set any 80’s goodies aside for you to peruse. Temps already way up in Tempe. My son has an Outback now thanks to another great older board member , NVZeno For kicks I joined group on FB that off-roads Subies in AZ - MtnRoo Arizona - and hope my son gets involved but not too seriously. Budget requires he commute with it so he can’t bash it up. Stay safe and healthy. And yes , a little damp still up here. Fine day today though. Enjoy !
  22. 1 point
    My 02 started leaking at the head gasket at about 85k miles. I had the HG replaced at 92K miles. I think that you can count on the HG leaking at some point and the leak will get progressively worse. On the other hand, nothing else on the car has failed, and it rides great. I now have 115K miles. I wouldn't pay $4000. I think that the market is more like $3000.
  23. 1 point
    Price is not outrageous. Not for up here in the northeast where you’ll be soon enough. Just got an 03 GT Sedan for a parts car for my 03 Legacy wagon. Jesse - Subafreak totally approves and he is our resident Subaru tech with much experience. We have that 2.5 headgasket fear , but he says no no , not this 2.5 - the ‘00-‘04 gets a big thumbs up. If it’s really that sweet and you’re not struggling to put food in the table so I vote that you buy this one. Get it properly rust proofed.
  24. 1 point
    Aftermarket coils are crap. Likely your problem. In fact a 1/2 misfire on a wasted spark ignition system is going to be a coil 99.99% of the time - since that's prettymuch the only thing shared by 1 and 2. Get an OEM coil. 100k is a good run for a coil. Also (OEM) coil failures are typically a result of plug gap being too large or the wires being shot. Anything the increases the secondary ignition voltage requirement will cause more heat in the coil and kill it sooner. GD
  25. 1 point
    I purchased a 1986 BRAT with about 214K on it. No rust at all. Bad CV joints and a small oil leak. Given the body I figured I got a decent deal on it @ $2500.00. I just have to work on fixing all these problems now so I can make it a $4000.00 car. However, I think they'll pry this thing out of my cold dead hands.