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I've run clicking axles till they blew up also. While that took quite a while (almost a year, bit less than 50,000 miles), my car is 4wd, which means when the axle went, I just pulled the lever and kept on running. That's not an option for you, being a 2wd car. So what I'd do, were it me, is I'd run it as is until you get paid, then go down to Napa (or Schuck's or Autozone or Parts PLus, or whoever else) and get a lifetime warranty shaft. As far as actually doing the swap goes, it really isn't hard, but takes time. I can do mine in about 45 mins each (fronts). Here's what you need. 1) Sturdy floor jack 2) Sturdy jack stands 3) 1/2" drive breaker bar 4) 1/2" drive 19mm socket 5) 1/2" drive 36mm socket 6) needle nose pliers 7) flat head screwdriver 8) 1/2" drive 14mm socket or 14mm wrench 9) 1/2" drive 17mm socket or 17mm wrench 10) 10mm wrench 11) Hammer 12) small drift punch Ok...Step 1: Jack the car up and support it on the jack stands. DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT TRYING THIS WITHOUT ENSURING THE CAR IS SECURELY SUPPORTED! Step 2: use the breaker bar and 19mm socket to remove the lug nuts and wheel/tire. Step 3: use the pliers to remove the cotter pin in the axle and castle nut Step 4: use the breaker bar and 36mm socket to remove the axle nut. Step 5: use the 14mm wrench to remove the bolt(s) holding the brake caliper to the bracket. USe a coat hanger or piece of string to hold the caliper out of the way without hanging it by its hose. step 6: use the 17mm wrench to remove the bolts holding the bracket to the steering knuckle. step 7: use the 10mm wrench to remove the bolts holding the dust plate to the steering knuckle. step 8: crawl under the car and locate the roll pin in the Double Offset Joint of the axle you want to remove. One end will be flush, the other will have a divot. Rotate the axle to locate the divoted end. step 9: use the hammer and small drift punch to drive the roll pin out of its hole taking care not to drive it ALL the way out. They're hard to find once the go SPROING. step 10: turn the steering wheel all the way to the lock in one direction. step 11: use the hammer to drive the axle stub out of the wheel bearing as far as you can. Take care not to hit the wheel bearing. Once the axle stub has been removed from the wheel bearing, the DOJ will slide off of the stub of the tranny and the axle is out of the car. step 12: slide the DOJ of your new axle onto the stub of the tranny, ensuring to line up the holes in the DOJ cup with those in the tranny stub. The easiest way to do this is to ensure that the divoted side of the new DOJ cup is in the same position as the old one. step 13: insert the end of the axle stub into the wheel bearing. Use the hammer to tap the steering knuckle while you press the axle into the bearing. Once you've got enough thread through the bearing, it may be easier to use a large fender washer and the castle nut to pull the new axle through the bearing. Perform steps 1-8 in reverse order to reassemble. I'm fairly certain that's pretty much everything, but I did all that out of my head, so, YMMV, etc. Assume about $70 each for axles pluse core and tax. You shouldn't need a mahcine shop unless you are replacing wheel bearings at the same time. Wheel bearing are pressed in and out, so you either need a machine shop or a press for those. Be advised, though, that the axles fit VERY snugly through the bearings, so its going to turn into a wrestling match to get the axles in and out of them.