Bram_R
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Posts posted by Bram_R
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If using the EJ knucles, can I take the center section out of the EA81 axle and put in the cups of the EJ axles to shorten the over length of the axle?
Instead of shortening the axles, is widening the subframe or control arms no option for you then?
You have to do some measuring what your width of front wheels are going to be then, but maybe it's a cheaper and easier solution than modding the axles.
For the rear, if you also want the bigger brakes and handbrake, go for the crossbred parts I'd say.
I've done some designing of the rear hubs myself trying to get a 5 lug, but in the end, with all the machining and engineering effort, better to go for the proven solution of crossbred. I was very pleased with this kit, how it fitted and worked.
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I believe Bram got his digi tach to work on his XT with EJ20G swap.
Indeed correct. Engine is a EJ20G Turbo in a 1986 XT turbo with a digidash installed.
From what I know, I just used the tach wire out of the ECU and connected it to the digidash tach input.
Best way is to check your FSM and turn to the electrical chapter where you see you complete ECU pin out. Then you'll make no mistake which wire does what.
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Also, the intermediate fittings at the crossmember (not at the actual rack/steering unit) are the same. Although joining the EJ to EA lines here makes for a funny bend, but it works.
For my info, you now got the EJ rack installed, but still running the EA engine and PS pump? In your opening post you're refering to an EJ22 swap, so I figured you are all EJ now!
Anyway, did you have any problems fitting the u-joint between steering rack and steering shaft? Does is turns smoothly lock to lock without any 'jerkiness'?
You probably also cut a section out of the subframe to pass those PS lines, right?
Bram
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You want to install the WRX subframes under the Brat?
See also http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=96298&highlight=scotland&page=3
gr. bram
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Hi Jason,
Here're some pics of my 1986 XT Turbo with EJ20G engine.
Luckily today I was planning a compression test and spark plug service, so I had to remove some parts which gave me good view on the clearance between valve covers and frame rails. Hope this will give you some insight.
Bram
general overview
passenger side
[
driver side
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1986 XT Turbo with 1992 EJ20G engine (Legacy Turbo)
'92 Legacy turbo transmission (25-spline axle stubs)
Front:
'92 Legacy Turbo struts, hubs, discs, brakes, shocks and axles (all EJ)
Superpro poly bushings for the front sway bar and control arms
EA LII steering rack with L1 tie rod ends
Rear:
'92 Legacy VLSD diff
Crossbred 5 lug conversion kit (with rear e-brake)
'92 Legacy Turbo rear discs and brakes (+ e-brake)
Superpro poly bushings for the rear sway bar and control arms
Koni EA shocks with top mounts flipped
15" Speedline rims with worn tires.
Planning to upgrade shocks with KYB stuff.
Bram
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With the full time AWD, planning to install an EJ tranny as well or use an EA tranny?
The amount of cash to spend also depends on what goals you'd like to achieve and what level of finish you want to see.
Personanlly, I'd read over some project builds that are documented before and conclude from that what you can do yourself and what not, then also you have some insight in costs involved.
Good luck and keep us updated.
Bram
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Nice work, fits well.
Doesn't you weaken the body by cutting out that piece of framework where now your radiator sits?
I've mounted my EJ radiator just behind that metal strip and installed a double fan in front of there.
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The ea81 stuff is getting really rare here. The last of the goodies you find out here are rebuild-able' date=' but, not really in good 'use-able' shape. I've seen the ea82 stuff get harder to find too. Its all new gen stuff 6-10 to 1 of the older.[/quote']
Aha, well in that case you could the EJ rack a try and I'm looking forward to your results.
As said before, if you're also going to use the EJ knuckles for 5 lug swap, you can use the L1 steering rods. These have the same dimensions for the thread and ball joint as the EJ ones, but are a bit shorter.
Bram
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Looks very detailed and usefull for a EJ swap rookie or novice.
Nice work
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I don't remember having to bend the lines that much, but it's over 1,5 to 2 years that I modded the x-member, so can't tell for sure...
You can indeed install some (wedge shaped) shims to rotate the EJ rack a bit if the u-joint doens't line up. But if you're not in need of a quick ratio rack or something EJ special, I would consider the EA rack and spend some effort and money on custom lines.
I guess it won't be so hard to source an EA rack somewhere as plenty of older Subs are parted out.
Keep us updated on the install!
Bram
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Just some info - I needed to go from EA82 PS lines to my EA81 rack. A1-Coupling in Tualitin soldered JIC fittings to the existing hard-lines on both sides and built me custom hoses for a perfect fit. Cost was less than $75 out the door. Beautiful work too.
GD
That's a very good option too.
I tried the EJ rack because I was thinking of upgrading it at some point to a quick ratio rack, which is readily available for the EJ cars.
Now I maybe too can better reconsider a set of custom lines from the EJ pump to the EA rack.
Thanks for the idea,
Bram
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Hi there,
I did put a EJ steering rack in my EJ20G-XT at first.
Indeed cut a section out of the crossmember.
The PS-lines fit much nicer when you're using the EJ engine and PS pump together with the EJ-steering rack, instead hooking them up to an EA-rack.
Problem I had was that the angle how the splined shaft comes out of the EJ rack is somewhat steeper than the EA one.
For this I modified the u-joint overcoming the extra length I also needed.
Unfortunately, the angles for the u-joint were too sharp resulting in jerky steering.
I need to take some time in taking a closer look in this matter. At the time of this project, I just wanted the car to run for taking it to inspection, so swapped the EA-rack back without investigating options.
Maybe mounting the EJ-rack slightly tilted may work.
On the XT by the way, the steering shaft comes in at a fairly low angle. On GL cars, in which the drives sits a little higher and upright, the angle of the steering shaft may be better.
Below some pics:
engine x-member with extra hole for PS lines
[/img]extended u-joint
[/img]mounted in XT with EJ rack
[/img]left one is EJ, right one XT, not very clear, but EJ has a steeper angle how the splined shaft comes out of the steering rack. It's also a bit longer, making it harder to line up with the u-joint.
[/img]You can use LI tie rod ends when using an EJ steering rack and EJ hubs.
The have the same conicity as the EJ steering arms and the same thread (M14x1,5) for the rod ends.
When using EJ rod ends, you'll have toe-out even when screwed fully in.
Bram
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I'm toying with that idea as well for my next project.
For already some info, go to topic http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=96298&highlight=scotland
Here a WRX front and rear subframe is used.
I have yet to take a closer look at different Subaru subframes, especially the rear, to use on a EA82 platform.
Good luck and keep us updated,
Bram
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I have heard that they're hard to get a hold of.
I know now why...
You can order our products...when you're able to find us haha
Will keep trying, do some phonecalls as well. See if they still exist.
Bram
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I've worked with a bunch of buggy guys that have used the enginewiring.com simulator. always positive feedback.
Good to hear this, I have good faith in their product. I also wouldn't know why the ECU would start to act funky when it get's a constant pulse on that wire.
From what I know, the ECU also doens't care if the pulses are speed related, only needs to know if the car drives/rolles or not. So this piece of electronics will I presume only give a constant pulse to the ECU, nothing more or less.
It's only strange they don't answer any of my e-mails or web-forms.
Bram
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i bought a vss simulator from engine wiring.. im not 100% sure but i think it can and will mess with the ECU.. since its always pulsing, the ECU thinks the car is always driving.. weird idle, trouble codes that dont make any sence.. ive got a '82 brat with a EJ22turbo... the car runs and drives, but will go into limp mode.. ive heard of bad vss causing weird ECU codes..
hmm, weird. Shouldn't be happening I suppose.
My XT digidash is giving a 0-5V pulse, so that's perfect.
However, when plugging in the trip computer, it puts a 10V voltage on the wire, grounding it at the dash apparently and thus making it a 0-10V pulse. Yes indeed, sounds strange, wouldn't believe it, but verified on another XT, so I guess Subaru designed it that way.
The EJ20G ECU input has a range of 0-5V and only once while testing the set-up, I had an error code of 'input out of range'. Then never after again...even though I've been running the 0-10V pulse for quite a while now. Very strange.
Anyway, hopefully the guys from enginewiring.com will get back to me and maybe can also answer questions if the simulator can cause problems like you have/had.
Maybe some other experts can chime in why the ECU will have problems when having a constant speed pulse.
Bram
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Does anybody know if the people from the VSS simulator at http://www.enginewiring.com are still in business?
Send them different e-mails and left an inquiry at their web-form.
Any info is appreciated, would like to have such a sensor in my EJ-XT project, now using the speed signal off the digidash, but that's not the correct voltage.
bram
EJ 5 lug on an EA
in Subaru Retrofitting
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Widen the rear with a couple of spacers? A little wider stance looks quite good on those Leone cars btw.
Well, it's up to you to do the measuring and determine what and how you want your car to look.
Good luck!