RatInDaHat
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Posts posted by RatInDaHat
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that is essentially what i did. Starts with no issues from that.
Now on to the heads soon.
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WARNING WARNING WARNING, once you remove the heads do not , repeat do not turn the motor over, very good chance of pushing the liners out when the motor turns and you may have problems with the seal under the liners, they might start to leak water into the oil.
Thierry
thanks for the heads up. can anyone with a 1400 confirm if they will come off without pulling the motor? to me there doesn't seem to be enough room.
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They come in different combinations. A few of them have two halves (other makes) but generally yes its attached to the transmission.
nipper
just making sure i had a clue.
thanks.
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That's what i thought, but it looks to be the tranny case as well. am i incorrect in this assumption?
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this is going to sound very ignorant, but when we are talking about the bellhousing... what exactelly is it?
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Ratinda, that is an excellent link!!
It must have been posted before but even so
I thank you for the link.
I wish I knew enough to say it's all correct.
Me too. with the current car issues i'm thinking about going to a EA71 if it is that easy.
One thing i wonder. It says i need the EA71 bellhousing, so i'm guessing they mean to swap the parts from the EA63 tranny into the 71 bellhousing, but i'm only assuming. If that is the case, what is stopping someone from just using a ea71 tranny?
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found this site about engine swaps.
http://www.vintagesubaruparts.com/engswap.htm
is this info decent? i'm really considering finding an ea71 and the related parts if it is all true.
Input?
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Sounds like an exhaust valve has gone, 2 things you can do
1; if parts are still available ie head gaskets and valves give it a head job and regrind your valves into the head.
2; as mention before retro fit a 1600, not that difficult but you need to swap the bellhousing off the 1400 onto the 1600, it does fit up trust me, use the 1400 flywheel and space it out about 5mm -1/4 inch and find a bearing you can press into the flywheel to use as a spigot bearing.
i am pretty sure that is all you need to do it has been over 20 years since i did it.
Thierry
I want to pull the head and go from there, but can i do it without pulling the motor?
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and after hooking up my compressor, it is just dumping out of the exhaust valve.
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is the head capable of being pulled off without pulling the motor?
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checked and adjusted valves and i still have almost no compression on the #2 cylinder. What's the next step to look at?
Thanks,
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Called him this morning,no answer,still waiting on a reply.
What about just looping it so the circuit is closed all the time? I hate electrical stuff but this year I'm throwing myself into some electrical projects to better edjumicates me.
Sorry, i forgot to mention that i figured it out. My light issues was unrelated, but happened at the same time.
Thanks though.
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any specific instructions for checking, and adjusting the valves?
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guess i need to find one in good shape or find one really cheap that i can rebuild.
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I'm sure there is. I just need to find one that isn't too expensive. I'm a broke college kid with a family.
Oh and when you guys say it'll bolt right up, will it bolt to the tranny and everything?
Thanks,
-Dusty-
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how easy would it be and where could i find one cheaply?
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Hey all,
So I finally did a compression test today. I think i know why my car won't idle for crap. Here are the numbers.
#1 90 psi
#2 30 psi
#3 90 psi
#4 90 psi
These are all approximate, but in the ballpark of what i got.
2 questions now. is around 90 psi good for a '74 1400? Number 2, what are the likely causes for the 30 psi reading? i'm not smoking or anything like that, which leads me to believe that it is probably a piston ring, or valve issue.
Anyone have leads on the rebuild stuff i would need for the pistons, or a cheapish crate motor?
Thanks,
-Dusty-
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You'll probably have it figured out by the time I get an answer. I can't remember,but its easy enough. My buddy Charlie or my brother will know.
That feature was also on the '73 and maybe '72 as well in the 1400 Coupe.
haven't figured it out yet, so if you find anything, just let me know
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It is the ignition interlock and it is very possible that it only came on the 74s.
The issue i have is that if i remove the relay, and jump the wires that would allow me to start the car, my lights no longer work. I'm going to sit down with the wiring diagram today and see what i can figure out.
Thanks,
-Dusty-
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Hey all.
I've been having problems with the seatbelt sensor thing. I'm curious if any of you know how to completely disable it?
I'm on a 74 1400.
Thanks,
-Dusty-
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nice looking car there.
I just wish i could figure all of this old mechanical stuff out.
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cool. thanks.
so new question.
I converted it to a manual choke because i was having issues with the automatic one.
Some times, when warm, i can open it all the way and it will idle and run with no problems. Other times i can't open it more than half way or it will die. Any ideas?
-Dusty-
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Manual says 8°, but since i'm at 5200 feet in elevation i have it set at 10.
I set it with the vacuum line plugged, so it should still be correct, but i'll double check it when i get a chance.
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The reason i ask is that it has been hooked to the manifold since i bought the car, and i've never been able to get it to idle right.
I swapped it to the carb and it seems to be doing better now. Just figured i would ask some of you guys.
requested pics of my 74 gl
in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
Posted
It's actually sitting in my backyard right now. not running and no money to fix it.
Someday i'll fix her up, but it will be a while.