[I finally found 1st gen axles , the only place that has them]

I forgot to update this post, sorry.... and an update.

 

The GSP axles fit like a glove, no ticks,shakes ect. after 6 months or so.

 

They were not cheap like a 35.00 rebuilt FORD axle, but seem to be very high quality(and the only NEW axles available I could find) .

 

I think I paid about 80.00 each.

 

GSP provides most axles to the world market, made in China but not rebuilt, all new manufacture.

 

I'm impressed !

 

And no, I don't work for GSP.

[Wanted : 1979 coil/module assy. 2wd]

I 'm looking for an ignition coil module assembly. for a 1979 DL wagon.

 

Module has Nippondenso Ua code part  429602002.

 

Assy includes Coil and resistor.

 

Anybody have one laying around ?

 

I need one , send me a price if you have one..

[I think my Coil Ignitor Quit, How to Fix ?]

I have a 79 dl wagon.

 

I'm thinking its the coil ignitor, Ignition module it

just quit going down the road, it would start for a minute backfire then die again.

 

Since a replacement for the part is like 300.00.

 

Is there any other external ignitor module that could be rigged to work?

 

I saw a NOS external Hitachi ignitor for a honda for 30.00, any way to upgrade to later parts?

 

Thanks !

 

The Hitachi ignitor is mounted on top of the coil, it also has an old school ceramic "ballast resistor" mounted with the coil and ignitor.

 

HELP !

[Looking for YELLOW 1972 gl coupe for photoshoot!]

 

I think I figured it out !

 

I Can't drive 55

[Looking for YELLOW 1972 gl coupe for photoshoot!]

What 1980's Band.

 

Anybody know ?

 

Sammy Hagar?

[Looking for YELLOW 1972 gl coupe for photoshoot!]

Thats a cool pic, I dont have a 1972 yellow coupe.

 

But I do Have a 79 Wagon, I'm thinking it might look good Lawn-Boy Green !

 

(Like the one in the background)

[My New 1979 DL Wagon Front Wheel Drive Automatic (lots of pics)]

Almost 90,000 trouble free miles on it now, Axles are shot.

 

Going to replace them soon.

[I finally found 1st gen axles , the only place that has them]

I received the NEW GSP Axles, and I was pretty impressed out of the box.

 

They look and feel pretty nice, but I havn't installed them yet, I'll know better when I get them installed.

 

Since NOBODY else seems to be able to get new Axles for a 1st gen Subaru, I guess it "is what it is".

 

They do have 2 year warranty.

 

I'll try to post some pics of them.

[I finally found 1st gen axles , the only place that has them]

Yea, I'm not crazy about a non Japanese part on a Subaru or Toyota.

 

I would never put an aftermarket part on my 79' Corolla wagon,and it was still rolling strong with 800,000 miles.

 

Had it 18 years and it was never on a wrecker.

 

But it looked like an option, since NAPA said 1979 Subaru Axle "No parts for you".

 

These are about the ONLY axles I could find that fit 1st gen Subaru.

 

Raxles had them in stock but 150.00 each, I wish I could afford those..

 

At least I get to keep the original axles for repair later.

 

 

Two year warranty, I'm guessing I might need it.

[I finally found 1st gen axles , the only place that has them]

I've been looking around for a month or 2 for "New" 1st gen axles for the 1979 Subaru dl that fits the 79 front drive auto.

 

They actually have them in stock, fits Gen 1 from 1973-1979.

 

 The ONLY place I could find one at all is from GSP North America and they had it new, not rebuilt for a decent price.

 

I'll let you know when I get then if they ar OK.

 

 

[Outer CV joint Hunt, anybody know the part# or specks for Front Drive Auto ?]

I went to my friend at NAPA and he was useless, he was like I dont know,,and I suck because I cant find your part.

 

Since when can NAPA not find a part.

 

If NAPA ,auto parts associationn cant find it,  what to do ?

[Any Chance an outer CV joint marked 80-89 would fit a 1979 Wagon ?]

 I'm guessing they are different somehow, But would be nice if I could fit the later outer CV stub/joint on the earlier 1st gen axle .

 

Anybody know the difference, I bought one marked "1980-89 outer"CV joint and axle stub thinking the outer might SWAP onto thethe 79 wagon axle LOL..

 

I havent tried to fit it.

 

Thanks

 

[Outer CV joint Hunt, anybody know the part# or specks for Front Drive Auto ?]

Thanks for the info.

 

It's hard to tell about the outer cv's  or axles in general.

 

Some lists to fit 76-79, some 76-89, some 80-89.

 

Some axles claim to fit 76-89 models ea71 ea81.

 

I'm guessing the stub axle might have changed between 1st gen and 2nd gen ?

 

And mine is an Automatic front wheel drive.

 

I bought an outer cv joint assembly that was labeled for 80-89 Front wheel drive Subaru ea-71/ea81, I wonder if it will fit the 1979 ?

[My New 1979 DL Wagon Front Wheel Drive Automatic (lots of pics)]

Do you still have this car?  How is the dash?  What will it cost ?

 Cost for the car ?

 

Not really for sale.

[Outer CV joint Hunt, anybody know the part# or specks for Front Drive Auto ?]

I'm needing outer CV's assembly for a 1979 Automatic wagon with a ea-71.

 

I would maybe replace the whole shafts if they were available new, but I cant find them.

 

But I cant even find the outer CV joint assembly because nobody lists Subaru parts that far back, I would think a common part that fits a few different of cars ?

 

Any interchange info would be helpful.

 

They put ea-71 engines in Subarus up to about 1989, are the outer CV joints/stub different than the 1979 automatic in later models/ different than a manual trans?

 

Thanks , Chris

[Just bought a '78 wagon]

I'll give you 500.00 for it,  if you don't want to fix it LOL.

 

 A lot of parts I'd like to have.

[Rear end sag issue?]

Hi fellas,

 

I have encountered an issue with my '79 4WD wagon where I can't load up any passengers or weight in the back without the rear end of the car sitting down almost all the way onto the tires. I assume this is a failure of the rear torsion bar but sourcing and replacing such a part is probably a hopeless endeavor. I've brought the car to a couple specialty shops to no avail as far as finding a solution to this problem. Does anyone have any ideas, creative or otherwise? I'd really like to be able to use my car as intended...

It sounds like you have something broken or rusted out, my 79 SW hauls weight fine.

[Weber carb installation problem]

A soak with a good lube is good, but heat is the only thing to release stuck bolts in aluminum  .

 

Heat the cylinder head around the bolt,(but don't heat the bolt) with a propane torch then try, usually works.

 

The heat expands the aluninum and frees stuck bolts, otherwise you will be trying to drill out broken bolts.

 

Steel bolts will seize up in aluminum, the only way out is heat.

 

Heat the aluminum not the steel bolt, i've done it 100's of times on VW heads and blocks.

 

Ratchet a steel bolt out of alunimum without heat and you will have a broken bolt stuck in a head or whatever, use some heat before breaking it, problem solved.

[Transmission Predicament 1980 BRAT]

I've never heard of bench testing a Manual transmission but whatever.

 

I bet you could find a decent auto recycle (junkyard) online that would ship two or three good used ones to you for 1,150.00.

 

OMG

[1986 Subaru Gl hatchback rough idle]

I sounds like a one cylinder isn't firing.

 

It could be a lot of things, dist cap and/or rotor button, a vacuum leak, a bad plug wire, needs valve adjustment ect.

 

What I would do is start the motor and then pull the spark plug wires off of the distributor cap one at a time.

 

*Use some rubber insulated pliers so you don't get a shock*

 

Pull one wire off and see what happens, replace it and then repeat on each cylinder

 

If you pull a plug wire off and the idle gets even rougher you know that cylinder is firing correctly, if you pull a plug wire off and it doesn't get rougher/stays about the same that is the cylinder that isn't firing.

 

I suspect you are going to find one that isn't firing.

 

Then I would swap two plug wires( make sure you keep them in correct firing order) , if the dead cylinder is now on the cylinder you swapped the wire you know its that plug wire.

 

If this works at least you know which cylinder isn't firing.

 

Most likely a bad plug or plug wire on that cylinder, but still could be dist cap/rotor, vacuum leak near that cylinder, or need a valve adjustment on that cylinder.

 

Hope this helps

[EA-71 engine parts needed]

Have the heads pressure tested at a shop. Its's normal for the ea71, ea81, and ea82 motors to have the head crack in between the valves. On most of them the crack stop at a certain point and don't crack anymore so there fine to use. I had a set of ea81t heads with cracks in them and had them pressure tested. They both were fine so i had them resurfaced and a valve job.

 

I totally agree, I have rebuilt hundreds of Bug motors and most of them had hairline cracks between the valves.

 

Your crack is a little worse(wider gap) than most I've seen, but that still doesn't mean it's leaking.

 

If it was leaking you would see burning at the crack, like you see on the valves in the pic...LOL.

 

Show them to a machine shop.

[Just First Generation Subaru Photos!]

 79' Front wheel drive automatic.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[EA-71 and emission vs. no emission]

Generally, on these 70's US cars, the power power rating is more due to lowered compression, leaned out / smaller carbs and mild cams to meet smog laws. Take a US motor, up the compression a bit, add in a hotter cam and add a weber and you will probably get at least another 10 hp. I'm with Leeroy in that I doubt the JDM motors put out 20 more HP than the US version unless maybe with the dual carbs. Those numbers are probably due to the different test procedure between JIS and SAE.

Hey Datsunrides,

 

I miss my 76' B-210 5 sp Coupe, I called it the "road warrior " it would burn a tire in 4th gear .

 

Back to the Subaru EA71,  Not 20 HP increase, but 20% increase.

 

When you start from 67 Hp/JP,  82 HP/JP would be a nice improvement,maybe remove a whole lot of emission stuff I don't need?

 

 

 

 

 

Best, Chris

[EA-71 and emission vs. no emission]

Firstly I would not put any faith in the accuracy of Wikipedia entries! Secondly there are two different measurements for horsepower being used, BHP and PS and lastly the Japanese used to list the power figures at the flywheel rather than will all the accessories fitted (such as fans, alternator and so on).

 

Having stated all that it does appear the JDM EA71 had 10 kW more than the US version...

Leeroy,

 

Thanks, yes I noticed the different rating system PS vs bhp.

 

WIKI, yea I know.

 

But if the numbers are correct, they are all rated in PS and compare those ratings.

 

So I did a little math.

 

• US version rated.............. 68 PS
• emissoins cleaned JPM....82 PS           That's a 20% increase over US Version.
• no emissions JPM.............87 PS           That's a 27 % increase over US version  !
• and the dual carb JPM .....95 PS           That's a 39% increase over US version

I wonder what the difference is between "Emissions Cleaned" and "No Emissions".

 

 

Best, Chris

[EA-71 and emission vs. no emission]

From WIKI ,

 

EA-71

The Subaru EA-71 engine was produced from 1976 to 1994, and was a redesign of the EA-63 block. Sales in the US ended in 1987.

Subaru EA-71 Engine

Specifications

• Displacement: 1595 cc
• Bore: 92 mm
• Stroke: 60 mm
• Compression Ratio: 9.0:1
• Valvetrain: OHV Pushrod
• Horsepower:
• 
  EA-71
  

  The Subaru EA-71 engine was produced from 1976 to 1994, and was a redesign of the EA-63 block. Sales in the US ended in 1987.

  
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  Subaru EA-71 Engine
  
  Specifications
• Displacement: 1595 cc
• Bore: 92 mm
• Stroke: 60 mm
• Compression Ratio: 9.0:1
• Valvetrain: OHV Pushrod
• Horsepower:

 

 

• Horsepower

 

• Horsepower:

1976-1979: 67 bhp (50 kW; 68 PS) at 5,200 rpm (US)  

 

82 PS (60 kW) at 5,600 rpm (JDM, emissions cleaned)

 

95 PS (70 kW) at 6,400 rpm (JDM twin-carb, emissions cleaned)

 

87 PS (64 kW) at 5,600 rpm (JDM, no emissions equipment)

 

1980-1987: 68 bhp (51 kW; 69 PS) at 4,800 rpm (US)

 

*************************************************************************

 

It seems the standard US EA-71 is 67 bhp.  

 

The "JDM emissions cleaned" is 82 bhp.

 

 "JDM no emissions" is 87 bhp.  

 

Thats nearly 20% increase in HP by no emissions !  

 

Can you make a US EA-71 "no emissions" and 87 bhp, and how exactly ?   Thanks Chris