Selfchangingoil Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 Hello All, I have a 1985 GL 4WD California wagon (which I bought in 1985...) and I am replacing the EGR valve. I purchased this partl: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Motor-Products-EGV329-EGR-Valve-/151283065586?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item23392c62f2&vxp=mtr off of eBay which states that it is compatible with my vehicle. The only problem is that it comes with a selection of "orifice washers" of which you are to select the correct one from a chart which lists the part #'s that should be stamped on your original part. The problem is that none of the numbers match what is on my EGR valve. I think that it's the original or an original replacement. It's an Atsugi part AEY78-11 5311A. The underside of my part is in such bad shape that I can't tell if there was some sort of rubber washer or not and the plunger doesn't look anything like the replacement. Does anyone have a clue as to which washer (or orifice diameter) I should choose? Your help would be appreciated. Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 Why are you replaceing it??? If your EGR light is on, you just need to reset it by swapping the blue/green connectors under the drivers side of the dash. EGR light comes on every 60k miles as a reminder to clean crud out of the valve. If you do need an EGR....that isn't the correct OE one for carbed....which I assume you have.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Selfchangingoil Posted April 20, 2014 Author Share Posted April 20, 2014 Why are you replaceing it??? I barely passed smog the last time around and next month is smog check time again here in lovely CA. I have been replacing all hoses and checking various items. I puilled the EGR valve off and the underside is so carboned up that I am not sure whether it had a sealing o-ring or whatever underneath so I figured that I'd just replace it. The recess in the base casting that the valve plunger operates in is almost completely filled flush with either crud or something else. Would you recommend just cleaning it? How is it supposed to look on the underside? Is there an o-ring or can I just scrape all the stuff out? if you do need an EGR....that isn't the correct OE one for carbed....which I assume you have.... Yes, I have a California carbed EA82. Would you have an idea as to what the correct aftermarket EGR replacement would be if I need one? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 I don't think there is any knd of o-ring in there.....just the metal gasket. Correct for that car would have a large tube coming off the side running over toward passenger side of engine bay to "Air Suction Valve". If you don'd have the air suction valve it's been removed.....and probably the EGR you have on there the tube is capped, or it's been replaced with one like that listing.......used on the SPFI and MPFI models. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 I thought the large tube off of the EGR went to the Anti Afterfire valve not the Air suction system. thats how it was on both of the ones I have, the ASV's just went to the air cleaner. Not disputing, mine could easily have been messed with. just making sure it wasn't a slip of the tongue/fingers. yes the bottom hole needs to be, well, a hole. check with a vacuum pump to make sure that the baffle holds a vacuum. No oring on any I have worked with, but there is a metal gasket as mentioned above. definitely a different looking can on that one. it would operate the EGR fine, but you wouldn't have the tube feeding the anti after fire valve, which probably wouldn't affect emissions but it might affect an inspection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 I thought the large tube off of the EGR went to the Anti Afterfire valve not the Air suction system. thats how it was on both of the ones I have, the ASV's just went to the air cleaner. Not disputing, mine could easily have been messed with. just making sure it wasn't a slip of the tongue/fingers. yes the bottom hole needs to be, well, a hole. check with a vacuum pump to make sure that the baffle holds a vacuum. No oring on any I have worked with, but there is a metal gasket as mentioned above. definitely a different looking can on that one. it would operate the EGR fine, but you wouldn't have the tube feeding the anti after fire valve, which probably wouldn't affect emissions but it might affect an inspection. You are correct.....it's the AntiAfterburn valve.......I mispoke. ASV are the reed valve boxes coming off the exhaust..... But my point was that the correct EGR would have a large port on it for that to hook up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Selfchangingoil Posted April 20, 2014 Author Share Posted April 20, 2014 I spent about an hour cleaning carbon out from around the hole - about 1/4" worth! There was a large recess routed in the baseplate around the hole that was completely filled with hard crud. I also scraped out a lot of sludge from the chamber in the baseplate. The valve functions under suction so I guess it works. Many thanks.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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