SalemCat Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 (edited) AlldataDIY tells me I need a 84920FE000. Which is NOT helpful. I really don't want to spend an entire morning driving to the Subaru Dealer for a bulb - though it will likely come down to that. 84920FE000 gets me nowhere on the AutoZone Web Site. And searching for a 2014 Subaru Forester Brake Light Bulb on both eBay and Amazon doesn't seem to get me very far, either. I've not had a chance to pull the Bulb yet. I'd actually rather have a replacement in hand when I do, to save time. Does anyone have a generic number for this Bulb ? Or a suggestion for a nice LED replacement ? As a side note, it does surprise me how poor the bulbs have been on this vehicle. I'd had to replace Headlight Bulbs, License Plate Bulbs, and more. My "vintage" 1998 Saturn seems to go though bulbs at a much slower rate. Edited January 17, 2016 by SalemCat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gravitate Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 (edited) Bulb is 7440 or 7443 from what I can tell Edited January 17, 2016 by gravitate 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SalemCat Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 (edited) Bulb is 7440 or 7443 from what I can tell 7440 is Amber and has a single filament 7443 is White and has dual filaments So I'm thinking the 7443 is correct. Edited January 17, 2016 by SalemCat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith3267 Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 If you are going through a lot of light bulbs, you should take it to the dealer and have the alternator voltage checked. It is probably putting out a higher voltage than it should. Actually if you know anyone with a voltmeter, they can check it for you, just check the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running at idle and at 1800 rpm. If it is over 15.2 volts, it is too high although I would prefer it to be no more than 14.8 volts. The alternator output is controlled by the computer now, they don't have their own regulators anymore. If the DC voltage is within spec, switch the voltmeter to AC to see if the alternator has excessive ripple. It will have a little ripple, less than 1 volt. If it is too high, that would indicate that the alternator has a blown diode in it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SalemCat Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 (edited) Good Tip ! Edited January 17, 2016 by SalemCat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Most new cars seem to go through bulbs in a heartbeat. My sisters 2012 Hyundai has had nearly every external bulb replaced in the three years she's owned it. I see new vehicles (less than 5 years old) almost every day with some type of bulb not working. Buy quality replacements and after you've replaced them all you won't have any more problems! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SalemCat Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 (edited) Sylvania Long Life 7443 is working fine as a Taillight/Brake Combo Bulb so far (purchased at Walmart). But a Sylvania Low Beam H11 XTRAVISION just burned out after less than a week ! And I have a stash of lightweight, brand new, 100% white cotton gloves I use just for Light Bulbs. I'm very cautious about touching the glass. After one use I discard the glove. So there was certainly no skin oil present. I'm going to bring the vehicle in for a warranty evaluation. As Keith3267 suggested, there may be a voltage issue. Edited January 23, 2016 by SalemCat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 (edited) But a Sylvania Low Beam H11 XTRAVISION just burned out after less than a week !Did the filament burn out or did the glass shatter? Shattered glass is a result of oil or moisture on the glass. Burned filament depends on the color of the burn inside the bulb. If there is a white smoke coating inside, that's due to oxygen contamination, which is likely due to a manufacturer defect allowing the inert gas inside the bulb to escape and outside air to be drawn in. Edited January 23, 2016 by Fairtax4me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SalemCat Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 (edited) Did the filament burn out or did the glass shatter? Shattered glass is a result of oil or moisture on the glass. Burned filament depends on the color of the burn inside the bulb. If there is a white smoke coating inside, that's due to oxygen contamination, which is likely due to a manufacturer defect allowing the inert gas inside the bulb to escape and outside air to be drawn in. Sorry for the delayed response. As far as my Sylvania Low Beam H11 XTRAVISION is concerned, the glass is not broken, there is no discoloration; the filament (a tightly wound coil?) is separated. As far as my ICHIKOH 7443 is concerned, the glass is not broken, there is an area of dark discoloration; the short filament (a tightly wound coil?) is separated; the long filament appears to be ok. Edited February 10, 2016 by SalemCat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Here's an interesting tidbit with some good pics. http://www.drb-mattech.co.uk/Files/Light%20Bulb%20Examinations.pdf If you poke around internet-land enough there are lots of articles out there explaining various types of bulb failures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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