Guest thebard17 Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 According to UPS, my halfshaft will be showing up on my doorstop tomorrow... so I figured I'd hop up here and get a few questions answered if I could, and maybe gain a few hints or tips. This will be my first halfshaft replacement, and probably my most in-depth repair so far in my meager experience . I'm also trying to anticipate anything that might go wrong. According to Chilton's, I'm going to need to drive out the spring pin from the inner CV joint. I've heard that the pin will only drive in one direction, and that the pin hole will be beveled on one end of the pin. Do I drive on that end, or from the opposite end? It also says I need to separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle. Knowing as much as I do about steering rump roast'ys (awful darn little ), I'm wondering if this is going to alter the alignment on the front end. After this girl is back together, am I going to need to visit my local mechanic for a realignment? In order to get the halfshaft out of the steering knuckle's bearing, I'm going to have to use "tool 926470000 or equivalent." Any way I can rig this? I remember using a good block of soft wood and a good sized hammer to knock various shafts out of tractors... but I'm depending on this car for transportation . Put a tractor out of commision for a few days, waiting for replacement parts, and there's always another one around the farm to use as a replacement. Knock this Loyale out, and I gotta find an alternative way to work. Then I need "installer tool 925130000 or equivalent" to get this shaft back into place. Any tips here? Chilton's recommends replacing the spring pin in the inner CV joint. Can I expect this to come with the new halfshaft, or should I start looking for another source? I think that's it. I think I'll feel better about this repair once I start digging into it, but until then, I'll probably fret worse than an expectant mother 8o <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/ohwell.gif ALT=":\"> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest thebard17 Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 Whoops... forgot to add that I'm gonna be working on a '92 Loyale, 4wd. That might help a little bit... <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/embarassed.gif ALT=":o"> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Caboobaroo Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 from what I've been told, it will usually slide right on out of the bearing without the "special" tool. I'm getting my info from a guy who's done this forever (Hondasucks). He tells me that you won't need it unless it doesn't slide out and he's had that problem once. Vise versa for putting it back in. You only need the "special" tool if it won't slide in. When you pull it out of the ball joint, it won't mess with your alignment any so no worries there. Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RedLance Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 Of all of the CV joints that I have replaced(which is alot) I have never had one that I did not have to BEAT to get out, and BEAT again to get the new one in. I was told by a friend of mine, who is a Porsche mechanic, that they SHOULD just slip in and out. This has never been the case for me. Maybe I am doing it wrong, I don't know. I've done it on a BRAT, a sedan, several wagons and both of my XT's. If you do find that you have to beat it out, just make sure you don't mushroom the end of the shaft, where the nut goes on. They might not take it as a core if you do. Also, most books tell you to remove the lower control arm, so you can push the knuckle away from the tranny to get the inner joint off the stub. I usually, just disconnect the strut, and flop the knuckle out that way... Again, I'm probably doing it the hard way, but these are the experiences I've had. It's still not hard, and I can now do it in about an hour. Just be prepared to have to either beat the old one out, or you can probably use a gear puller to press it out. Another option, if you live on a farm as you seemed to indicate, you might have a press. You can remove the knuckle assembly from the car, and press the old shaft out, and the new one in. I would do it this way, if only I had a press. Enough of my ramblings. RedLance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest calebz Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 I have done a few now, and I have never seen one slide right out/slide right in. Have had to beat every one of them to get them out of the car. Have had to use an axle install tool to get them back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest EmmCeeBee Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 The only special tool I needed was a large socket..... 36mm??? I can't remember what size, but it's needed for the castle nut. Also needed earplugs for the pounding to get the old axle out.... I had similar questions when I did this a few years ago, but I followed my Chilton's to the spirit, if not the letter. It was tough lining up the sway bar to bolt it back on, and be sure to support the steering knuckle so it doesn't flop around after it's disconnected. It's heavy, and it can be damaged (especially watch out after you've got the new CV in, if it flops then you might trash the CV). Use strong rope to tie it to the frame. If I remember, the bolts on the steering knuckle are not part of the alignment adjustment. So this "shouldn't" affect your alignment. I didn't get my wagon aligned afterwards, and I haven't had any alignment problems after 25k miles. But sure, it's a good idea. I don't remember about the inner spring pin.... I think I reused it, but I've always been lucky with that kind of thing. I did the job, both axles, in about 6 hours. But then, one of the new CVs turned out to be bad, I didn't even get around the block. Ruined my weekend, I'll tell ya, and I spent the next day doing it again. -- Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest thebard17 Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 It just arrived... looks like a new spring pin comes with the halfshaft. That's good news. I wish I was still on the farm... now that I'm at college, I'm about three hours away from the farm. We don't have a press there anyway, but it's a lot easier finding some way to jimmy rig something back home. Sounds like I might want to get a bigger hammer and a good scrap of wood. At least hammering shafts out releases stress Guess the only question I have left is which way I'm going to want to pound on that spring pin. Sure enough, the hole is beveled on one side... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest EmmCeeBee Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 My memory is absolutely positive on this: I drove out the pin from the beveled side. However, I can't swear that that was the "right" way. I used a punch to start it, but of course it wasn't long enough. So I took a nail and cut off the tip. I would have felt stupid if I jammed the nail in there -- a nail is kind of soft steel, so it could form itself around the pin. So every couple times I whacked it, I'd pull it out and check that everything was OK. Like I said, I'm usually lucky with that kind of thing.... -- Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest thebard17 Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 If the beveled side worked for you, I'll try it too. I already planned on using a nail to punch it out... my single drift punch is too thick to enter the pin hole very far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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