Jump to content

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse

- - - - -

Where is Canistor Purge Solenoid Valve?

  • Please log in to reply
10 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_MailmanX_*

  • Guests

Posted 28 September 2002 - 08:08 AM

1993 Legacy L Sedan
Engine Light Code = 35 (Solenoid Valve Inoperative)

My Haynes manual talks about it, but doesn't show me where it's located. I found a couple things in my engine compartment that "might" be it, but I don't want to guess.

Also, any idea how much this part will cost me from the dealer? I know, I could call the dealer and ask - but I'm here at the moment.

P.S. - I'm currently working in Southern California. They hardly know what a Subaru is here!


#2 Guest_Legacy777_*

  • Guests

Posted 28 September 2002 - 08:36 AM

It's under the passenger side intake runners. There should be little vacuum lines running to charcoil canister in the front of the car.

I think the part is like 100 bucks.....I may be wrong....but you could try taking it out.....cleaning it, and such.

It's just emissions BS.....doesn't necessarily affect the car too much.

#3 Guest_MailmanX_*

  • Guests

Posted 28 September 2002 - 09:32 AM

I'll give cleaning it a try. It has definitely affected my gas milage since the check engine light started coming on. I let it go for a couple of months since the car still ran fine. But I've lost about 3 mpg during that time.


P.S. - Good to talk to you again. I've been off the board for a while. The last time I posted I was working in West Virginia.

#4 Guest_Legacy777_*

  • Guests

Posted 28 September 2002 - 05:23 PM

Yeah....give her a cleanin....see what happens.....if not....see how much a new one runs yah.

Yeah....been a while. How's the job in cali? Your family still in seattle area?

Things at my job aren't too hot....possible relocation to tulsa.....which ain't happen for me.....got another one I'm sniffin at.....we'll see....

#5 Guest_gbrand_*

  • Guests

Posted 29 September 2002 - 05:30 PM

If you are losing MPG, then prolly stuck open-hence vac leak. Plug line and see if gets better. As bes as I can tell on my 91, code is generrated when coil becomes open, can put a 200 Ohm (or so-value is approx) reisitor or so accrross wire and see if Check Engine light goes out. If coil is open, valve is shot.

#6 Guest_MailmanX_*

  • Guests

Posted 30 September 2002 - 12:54 PM

Great info, gbrand! I haven't gotten around to working on it yet, so when I do I will definitely incorporate your suggestions.


#7 Guest_ShawnW_*

  • Guests

Posted 08 October 2002 - 06:48 AM


#8 Guest_MailmanX_*

  • Guests

Posted 23 October 2002 - 07:05 PM

Hi Shawn,

I actually worked on it before coming back to this website and seeing your link. Here's an update:

I took the part off before buying a replacement to see if I could clean or repair it. Turns out that it can't be disassembled, so I figured I'd have to replace it.

But then I decided to experiement with it since it was probably already ruined. I squirted penetrating oil into the vacuum inlet and outlet ports and let it sit overnight. Then I put it back on the car.

It worked! I guess the penetrating oil loosened up the actuator inside the solenoid. Not only did my check engine light quit coming on, my gas milage went back up to what it used to be (a very noticeable 5mpg difference). Sweet!!

Thanks for all the advice!

#9 Guest_Frag_*

  • Guests

Posted 24 October 2002 - 10:35 AM

Would be nice to have this archived. 3 different working cures for the same ailment and a link to Shawn's ultimate repair manual!
It gets my vote :)

#10 Guest_Legacy777_*

  • Guests

Posted 24 October 2002 - 11:51 AM

It's been sticky'd

I'll throw in archives when traffic dies down on it.

#11 mwbean


    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 50 posts
  • Port Orchard, WA

Posted 07 November 2011 - 07:35 PM

the link to the pic is no longer there. Here is a new link thanks to


0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users