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Posted 27 March 2001 - 10:37 PM
If anybody has any tips they are greatly appreciated. I've tried soaking it in 409/simple green, but I think I need something stronger.
Posted 27 March 2001 - 10:55 PM
I think I'd smack someone silly if they did that to my car....wedding or no wedding
Posted 27 March 2001 - 11:32 PM
Posted 28 March 2001 - 12:26 AM
The most gritty stuff is a rubbing compound, No.7 makes a good one, 3m also has some good stuff. What the fine gritty particles do is remove scratches swirls etc from the paint and such.
A polish is a finer grit, for less badly oxidized paint and such.
And a clear coat polishing compound is even finer grit.
The main thing here is that if you had a car that was pretty oxidized you would use rubbing compound to cut the heavy oxidation...then go to polishin compound and so on...the progression of finer grit is what makes the difference. Like using sandpaper. I built my speaker box, and used plexi glass, I polished the edges to a mirror shine, used sand paper, went finer and finer, then to like a 600 or 1000 wet, then to a rubbing compound, polishing, and so on....till it was baby butt smooth. Toothpaste is also like this, very fine grains.
How good is the paint on your car? has it been taken care of very well. If you use a clear coat polishing compound on just that area and the rest of the car is slightly oxidized that area will look better then the rest of the car. Ultimately then you should do the whole care then re wax it. As the polishers usually strip the wax, even though they leave a smooth surface.
You may want to see if you can pick up Wax shop's cleaner or polisher....don't remember the exact name, it's in a white bottle, very good ****.
Take a look at some of the pics of my car on my page, and you can see the shine on it. You can't tell that car is 11 years old with the original paint job from the paint's shine.
Shoot me an email if you have any questions about polishes or cleaners.....
Posted 28 March 2001 - 10:51 AM
Edit: Call them, it's an 800 number and they will most likely know what to use.
Posted 28 March 2001 - 12:36 PM
Posted 28 March 2001 - 12:45 PM
Posted 28 March 2001 - 01:07 PM
Posted 29 March 2001 - 02:01 PM
Posted 29 March 2001 - 04:12 PM
Posted 29 March 2001 - 04:50 PM
Posted 29 March 2001 - 06:02 PM
E-mail me offlist for more information.
Posted 29 March 2001 - 06:17 PM
Posted 29 March 2001 - 06:27 PM
However, unless your vehicle is specially shielded with secret government alloy materials then the electro-magnetic pulse from the detonation of a nuclear warhead will render your car inoperable. If you do not wish to go the full warhead route, and just wish to try using plutonium as a buffing compound, then I would suggest investing in a class 5 robot to assist you. This would be a wise investment as if you are close enough to see any amount of unshielded weapons-grade plutonium you will be dead in a number of hours.
You may also want to invest in a loaner car as yours will most likely be declared a localized disaster area by United States hazmat team and quarantined for the next few thousand years.
If you are still interested, you know where to find me.
PS- I generally recomend you use a motorized buffing machine as it can do a much better job than you can by hand. Be careful not to leave it on any one spot too long or it can burn away the paint.
Posted 29 March 2001 - 11:40 PM
One of the more serious replies inquired about the condition of the paint. The car is 5.5 yrs old but the paint is in as-new condition, still looks great when clean. That's why I'm hesitant to do anything drastic.
Thanks for all the replies. I'm gonna try some of them this weekend when I have more time to do car stuff.
Posted 30 March 2001 - 02:09 AM
Posted 30 March 2001 - 06:02 PM
Posted 31 March 2001 - 01:45 AM
Posted 01 April 2001 - 08:15 PM
Thanks for all the help.
Posted 01 April 2001 - 10:39 PM
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