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Guest Message by DevFuse

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AUX light wiring? anyone wanna send to subaru repair manual

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7 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_Subaru Syndrome_*

Guest_Subaru Syndrome_*
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Posted 08 October 2002 - 12:54 PM

Ok, i feel lika a real idiot here, I direct wired the lights to the battery terminal<img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/embarassed.gif ALT=":o"> . this cant be right, so how is it supposed to be done?
-a humble Joe

#2 Guest_Subaru Syndrome_*

Guest_Subaru Syndrome_*
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Posted 08 October 2002 - 02:37 PM

is there a relay i need and if so how do i wire it?
The lights are youre average 55watt driving lights. I think the reason my fusable links have been frying is because i have the lights wired directly to the batt terminal.

#3 Guest_kevinsUBARU_*

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Posted 08 October 2002 - 04:08 PM

Posted Image
picture from: http://www.susquehanna.com/susq

That is the way I wired my 55w driving lamps. This diagram is really straight forward. I just hooked it up to the battery. I used 14awg wire for everything in general, but 12awg for grounds on the lamps, relay, switch and the power from the battery to the relay and switch. This does not tap into the cars wiring at all, and you shouldnt blow anymore fuseable links:)

Good luck with it!


#4 Guest_Mike W_*

Guest_Mike W_*
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Posted 08 October 2002 - 05:45 PM

That's a good diagram and this topic would make an excellent addition to the Ultimate Repair Manual. I used to think it was ok to ground the lights to the chassis right where the lights are mountd, but I've since been told that grounding them to the battery as the diagram shows, is the proper method. Can anyone explain why that is?

Fuses or ciruit brakers are essential for safety (burning wire insulation is really exciting...I did that once.) It's also wise to insulate your wires with wire loom and do whatever it takes to make sure they don't rub on sharp edges and short out. If you use a dash mounted switch to control your lights, I'd recommend using a + wire that is only "on" with the ignition so you can't forget to turn them off and drain the battery. Heavy duty outdoor extension cords work good for offroad lights as long as the insulation is solvent resistant.

#5 Guest_james hogan_*

Guest_james hogan_*
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Posted 08 October 2002 - 06:33 PM

Hey, Good Timing on the post.
I've mounted the center light from a 80 wagon into my 84.
Cannabalised(sp) the relay and all of the wiring from the 80. I have the original passing light switch and all the underhood wiring from the 80 installed.
The only wires going to the relay are from the light harness and the switch ( factory connectors).
It looks like the only power routed to the relay are from the switch. One wire, I believe is hot the other is 'on', There is a ground wire on the switch.

Does the relay get all it's juice from the switch?
That doesn't seem right, a 16 gauge wire providing all the power for the door mechanism and the halogen light?

The wire I believe is the power wire (green) was interconnected in the loom to other lights. Is this the positive, power wire?

I have all the books on Subarus with exception of the service manual and NONE list diagrams for this light. Any help would be appreciated.

It may loop through the headlight switch, and the high/ low stalk but it shouldn't change where the power comes from. Jeez, there are only two wires in the relay besides what connects into the light assembly itself.


#6 Guest_Hondasucks_*

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Posted 08 October 2002 - 11:19 PM

I know that the light is wired somewhere so that it shuts off when the brights are on (Might shut off when the brights are off, I can't remember!)

#7 Guest_edrach_*

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Posted 10 October 2002 - 07:01 PM

Run separate ground wires to the battery: better because you know it's a solid connection and not going through the body/engine parts which can come loose or get corroded with time. Also, separate 12V wires to the battery (plus side) feeding the power to the relay and then to the lights is also the best way for similar reasons.

#8 Guest_Skip_*

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Posted 12 October 2002 - 06:08 AM

I am sorry guys, this wiring diagram has a problem.

it shows control of the relay by the headights (bottom of diagram)

This will NOT work on a Subaru.

The positive feed that the diagram shows for relay control is not how Subaru operates their headlamp circuits.
The diagram will work for most American cars but Subarus, (and Honda, and Acuras if it matters) use a negitive switched hi/low beam control, positive is feed to the common terminal of the head lamp.
I just thought I'd mention this before it is put in the USRM

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