Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!
|Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.
We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!
Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!
more electric stuff........
Posted 25 October 2001 - 11:01 PM
Fully charged battery w/one shorted cell about 10.4, 2 shorted cells 8.3 etc.
More likely to be damaged by overcharging if anything-check water level before
18 volts running is way too much and your XT6 alt. definitely needs a reg.
bajavwsoobnut`s added relay is probably the easiest method of fixing your
starting problem but if you don`t want to go that route do what the
doctor said and measure voltage at solenoid terminal when car refuses to
Measuring voltage w/solenoid wire disconnected is of minimal value though
(this will show only complete opens not high resistance-no current flow=
no voltage drop)
Measure available solenoid voltage when car refuses to start by putting
meter + lead on solenoid terminal and - on battery - or starter case/bolt
Should be close to 12 if engine not cranking
You can do this alone by extending your meter leads
If voltage tests low start looking for voltage drops in the control circuit
I don`t have a wiring diagram of your car so I can`t direct you to the
exact locations and wire colors but in general:
When car refuses to start
put voltmeter around various parts of circuit in order
eg. start w/meter + on battery + and meter - on + feed to ign. sw.
turn key and note voltmeter reading,if greater than about 0.1V
then there is high resistance between battery and switch
Continue by checking ign sw contact voltage drop-put meter +
on + feed to sw. and - on sw. solenoid terminal (again about 0.1v
Thirdly put meter + on sw. solenoid terminal and - on starter solenoid
terminal- you guessed it,about 0.1v allowable
If any of the drops are excessive you`ve found the bad section of
the circuit.The voltage drops added together should equal voltage
missing from the starter solenoid terminal in the first test
Posted 25 October 2001 - 11:35 PM
You should also check the black fuse link in the box by the battery. This link is what supplies the path for current to most of the items on the dash. I think it also connects the aternators output to the battery. From your symtoms it sounds like you have a bad connection. This is a fairly common problem so look for a burned wire connector or loose connection. If you don't have power to the numerious relays, which this link feeds, you will not get voltage to the starter solenoid to close it when you turn the key along with other things not working. Glen
Posted 26 October 2001 - 01:03 PM
Posted 26 October 2001 - 04:16 PM
Posted 26 October 2001 - 05:58 PM
On your first alt, you reved up and it started charging. 18v, is too high. You may have cooked your battery. Charge over night and have tested after it's been off the charger for an hour or three. The alt was putting out, but deffinately non regulated. That is either the wires as mentioned, a bad regulator or both. Sometimes on a good alt and regulator assy, the higher RPM will create enough field current to get it excited and it will begin to charge. (But out of control.) The second alt is not charging at all, that might not be bad either. If it had been setting, there may be no residual magnetism left and the revs may not kick it in. Then we're back to the wires.
Starting. I'm keeping this one short. May be some good suggestions already on the long wire, bad solenoid contacts etc. If you can get any crank with the key switch at all, sounds as if the wiring is in tact. If it cranks up by jumping the soleniod, power's getting to the starter and should be OK. If the battery is cooked, you may only be delivering 6,8, 10, <12 volts to the starter when trying to crank. Drop the volts and the amps go up. Increases in amps can be hard on motors, contacts, wires etc. Also, if cranking volts is low, you would have less volts to suck in the soleniod.
If interested, E-mail me at firstname.lastname@example.org. I could call you or you call me. I'll look at my wire schematics, see if I missed some wiring details, but hope this helps. Nothing wrong with taking bat and alts to have them tested. If all's known good, it won't work right if the wire siganls don't get where their supposed to or the way it's supposed to. (OH, if it doesn't crank at all with the key, a jumper wire into the plug for the park/neutral switch should be enough. I know, the wires are long, but they handled it before, they still should. If volts (batt low) the amps go up and these long neut wire have to work harder.
Posted 26 October 2001 - 06:12 PM
should be at charging voltage w/engine running
Backprobe each of them in turn w/voltmeter - lead while + lead is connected
to large Batt. terminal and engine at 2400 rpm
Any significant votage is bad.T connector connections at alt. must be good of course
Posted 26 October 2001 - 06:23 PM
Posted 26 October 2001 - 07:08 PM
Now, don't things feel a little less fuzzy and overwhelming (less unknowns in the equation)?
Posted 26 October 2001 - 08:44 PM
Posted 28 October 2001 - 03:40 PM
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users