Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

- - - - -

Blasted Timing Belts


  • Please log in to reply
11 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_Subaruss_*

Guest_Subaruss_*
  • Guests

Posted 16 November 2001 - 08:36 PM

In short my brother replaced the t.b.'s on his 88' wagon 2WD this summer. The just went again today. I want to know why? Anyway, if anyone has a theory on what went wrong let me know. Is there anyway to prevent it from happening in such short order again?

cheers,

Dave

#2 Guest_chef tim_*

Guest_chef tim_*
  • Guests

Posted 16 November 2001 - 08:45 PM

Just a tought.....did you happen to replace the tentioners at the same time???? If not that would be my guess ( and expierience)..... Later, Tim

#3 Guest_earthguy2_*

Guest_earthguy2_*
  • Guests

Posted 16 November 2001 - 09:28 PM

Ya, replace the tensioner too. Mine was way 'dry' (ie noisy).

#4 Guest_Bill Putney_*

Guest_Bill Putney_*
  • Guests

Posted 16 November 2001 - 09:31 PM

Were the belts properly tensioned (i.e., with a torque wrench and an apropriate adapter)?

#5 Guest_bbitner_*

Guest_bbitner_*
  • Guests

Posted 17 November 2001 - 12:56 AM

Either they were cheap non-OEM belts or they were not installed with the proper torque. I have seen them get chewed up in 3k miles because the persone tensioned them like you would a V-belt.

#6 Guest_subynut_*

Guest_subynut_*
  • Guests

Posted 17 November 2001 - 01:27 AM

That's funny, mine just went today on my way to school! Mine died from old ade though. The one that broke was BADLY cracked and the other side was beginging to crack. So, tomorow I will get new ones and install them. So much fun!
I replaced my sister's timing belts three months ago with NAPA's belts and her's are still in tack. Funny, same side too. hmmmmm....

#7 Guest_Subaruss_*

Guest_Subaruss_*
  • Guests

Posted 17 November 2001 - 02:29 AM

let me gues driver's side went? Driving the oil pump and the distrib. put a bit of extra load on it.

Hmmm ... how should the timing belt be tensioned? Yeah, his idlers were good. He's a machinist so he just replaced all the bearings in the idlers.

#8 Guest_edrach_*

Guest_edrach_*
  • Guests

Posted 17 November 2001 - 02:32 AM

Another reason for timing belts failing is faulty front seals; oil gets on the timing belts and they don't last very long. Generally speaking, belts should be replaced every 60K miles. Every 2nd belt change replace oil pump, water pump, and seals in addition.

#9 Guest_Bill Putney_*

Guest_Bill Putney_*
  • Guests

Posted 17 November 2001 - 11:10 AM

Per '85 FSM, the cam sprocket should be torqued to 24-25 N·m ( = 2.4-2.6 kg-m = 17-19 ft-lb) if both timing belt and head gasket are new; or 14-16 N·m ( = 1.4-1.6 kg-m = 10-12 ft-lb) for conditions other than those (undoubtedly to allow for belt stretch and/or head gasket relaxation). Per '85 FSM.

Below is photo of a tool I made to adapt a torque wrench to the cam sprocket (instead of the special Subaru tool #499437000). Welded in the center of the tool is an all thread rod coupling (just like a hex nut, only longer). (FYI - The little thing to the right in the photo is a flywheel stopper I made).

After using it a few times, I could probably tension the belt properly without a torque wrench (within the variability that you'd get with a torque wrench due to adjuster stiction and other variables). It's moderately taut, but bbitner is correct - it's definitley not nearly as tight as you'd tighten a V-belt.

(A word of caution - make sure your torque wrench works in the CCW direction - some of the cheap click type ones only click in the CW direction - after all - how many times have you torqued a left-hand thread? - I didn't realize this the first time I used my adapter tool and it's a wonder I didn't break something because I kept pulling harder and harder on the wrench because it never clicked before I finally figured out it wasn't going to click in that direction. BTW - nothing wrong with click-type torque wrenches - I prefer them - my point was the *cheap* ones may only work in one direction)

http://albums.photop...ence=0&res=high

#10 Guest_Subaruss_*

Guest_Subaruss_*
  • Guests

Posted 17 November 2001 - 12:21 PM

thnaks bill. I think I'll be heading up to my bro's place to help him with his belts tonight. I suspected one of two things when I heard his belts had gone and one of them was oil.

Cheers,

Dave

#11 Guest_Bill Putney_*

Guest_Bill Putney_*
  • Guests

Posted 18 November 2001 - 11:42 AM

You're welcome!

#12 Guest_ShawnW_*

Guest_ShawnW_*
  • Guests

Posted 18 November 2001 - 10:35 PM

Archived post, well done all.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users