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Guest Message by DevFuse

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my new carb...

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13 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_jon61484_*

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Posted 04 August 2003 - 03:38 AM

hehe... sorta. I think my hitachi needs to be retuned. Still works good, but my mileage has suffered and I've done everything else beyond the EGR valve cleaning and retuning/rebuilding the hitachi.

So I was checking out the carb of Andrew's dad's 64.5 mustang when I was over there hanging out saturday... The date stamped on it says 7-76, and it looks exactly like the carb on my monarch that just needs a good cleaning. ('78 302cid Ford engine)

I'm so thinking about making myself an adapter plate. I already am using a 9" chrome air cleaner assembly, so the whole "getting rid of the emissions system" thing is already done.

Two barrel (rejetted)
two barrel gasket
adapter to hitachi
hitachi gasket

anybody think this is an outrageous thing to do? I think it sounds fun.

#2 Guest_jon61484_*

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Posted 04 August 2003 - 03:50 PM

it's a motorcraft 2100 (may be a 2150 but the electric choke says 2100) and the 2150 is supposed to get between 475 to 525 CFM depending on condition. (some say 475 if well polished and cleaned, and one guy tested his at 525. oh well. it's enough, for sure!)

so, I may need to rejet it before I tune it...

also found out the max CFM of a weber 32/36 ~330CFM.

anyhow, now that it's pulled, and cleaned, I'm ready to investigate into all of the fun details of the vacuum lines from the hitachi... which is going to be a whole lot of FUN if you ask me.

..... and does anybody actually care that I'm doing this?

#3 Guest_thealleyboy_*

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Posted 04 August 2003 - 04:11 PM


Yeah, alot of people use parts from the Granada/Monarch to upgrade the vintage Stangs. Straight bolt ups in many cases.

Another option for your Sube might be the carb found on the Pinto/Bobcat/Capri's of the early 70's. Supposed to be exact duplicate of the Webber that everyone likes to use on the Subes. Not sure, but it might be an Autolite.

good luck, John

#4 Guest_jon61484_*

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Posted 04 August 2003 - 04:28 PM

yeah... I've already got this one and I didn't have to pay anything for it (in theory)

I just now need to get my drill and bits, and pour through my manual to see what vacuum lines I do and don't need. I've checked out the throttle lever, and it looks like I can easily adapt it without and dinero... so I hope maybe I can get this done today... maybe not. But I'm sure hoping! I also really don't want the carb to be any taller in height than that of the hitachi. Otherwise, my hood clearance from the top of the cleaner is SCREWED.

#5 Guest_Russ Hill_*

Guest_Russ Hill_*
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Posted 04 August 2003 - 08:31 PM

The Pinto/Weber cars are made by Holley, under licence by Weber. They are pretty much the same as a 32/36. The air horn looks a little smaller and the throttle linkage is on the other side.
I have a brand new, never used one laying around someplace.:rolleyes:

#6 Guest_jon61484_*

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Posted 04 August 2003 - 11:33 PM


#7 Guest_Russ Hill_*

Guest_Russ Hill_*
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Posted 05 August 2003 - 02:59 AM

The Ford Pintos had a Holley/Weber carb. model 5210 I think.
A fun option would be a model 2300. They come in 350 and 500 cfm. I believe it was Cameron who posted that you need to put a 350cfm throttle plate on the 500cfm body or it kills the throttle response.

#8 Guest_Skip_*

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Posted 05 August 2003 - 07:04 AM

When shopping for these "licensed" versions of the famed 32/36 use caution.
What Russ says may be true but I have a "Motocraft" version (which has "Weber" cast into the body) and it is only a 30/30, it came from a Pinto but it may have been a 1600 cc ohv Cosworth engine. The 2 L SOHC may have a larger bore version.
<img src="http://www.westol.com/neper/McWeber.jpg"/>
For the uninformed these numbers 30/30 or 32/36 are the diameters of the primary/secondary throttle bores and dictate the cfm rating of said carb.
Here is a "real" DGEV 32/36"
<img src="http://www.westol.com/neper/WEBERFUEL.JPG"/>
and a look at it's throttle bores vs a Hitachi
<img src="http://www.westol.com/neper/webernew2.JPG"/>
Hope this helps

#9 Guest_jon61484_*

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Posted 05 August 2003 - 07:57 AM

I've been reading up on the 2150/2100 motorcraft carbs, and they're nice, because *everything* practically, is adjustable.

And I like the booster and power valve idea... anyhow, for now, I just need to finish my adapter plate and switch the carbs.

#10 Guest_jon61484_*

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Posted 05 August 2003 - 08:25 AM

<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/graphics/2150/2150_lfront_01S.jpg" style="border:0;"/>
1. Fuel bowl main vent
2. Choke housing
3. Fuel filter/fuel inlet
4. Accelerator pump
5. Fuel bowl vent valve
6. Choke tower with choke plate
7. Throttle positioner solenoid with dashpot
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/graphics/2150/2150_topv_01S.jpg" style="border:0;"/>
1. Choke pull-down diaphragm
2. Choke housing
3. Fuel bowl EVAP vent tube
4. Throttle positioner solenoid with dashpot
5. EGR valve diaphragm
6. Throttle levers
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/graphics/2150/2150_rside_01S.jpg" style="border:0;"/>
1. Choke plate lever
2. Choke pull-down diaphragm
3. Choke hot-air tube
4. Choke cap electric heater terminal
5. Choke housing
6. Fuel bowl vent valve

So... to recap.#5 in the first photo, #3 in the second, and $6 in the third. This goes to the purge canister... so that makes one hookup. #3 in the first picture is the fuel in, so that's the second hookup. #4 in the third picture is the electric heater, and I've taken that, and I'm going to wire it up. that makes three. accelerator cable makes four. ...but where does the disty advance go to... ? I'll figure it out.

#11 Guest_Skip_*

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Posted 05 August 2003 - 01:29 PM

Jon, the vac advance wants a "ported" vacuum, meaning it comes from a point above the throttle plate when at idle position.

You carb should have a hose barb or two under the float bowl facing the front of the pictures you provide. If there are two barbs one may be ported on may be manifold.
Like you said you'll figure it out

I believe the factory set up has a vacuum thermoswitch setup so vacuum advance (and EGR) is only available after the engine warms up.

Coulpe of other points
1] what are you doing for a return line back to the gas tank. Fuel pumps do not like being "dead headed" (pumped againt a closed system)
2] careful not to block off the gas tank vent system - a possible problem could present it self if a vacuum is formed in the fuel tank. Holes in gas caps have magicly appeared to prevent this. Use a sealed cap for the emissions test if ness.

This carb is jetted for a 305 cid ( 5L ) engine you planing on changing plugs alot or rejetting it for a 110 cid ( 1.8 L )engine?

#12 Guest_Caboobaroo_*

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Posted 05 August 2003 - 04:03 PM

I think Jon should just rejet it. Oh and it came off or a 302 which is a Ford motor, a 305 is a Chevy but they both have the same literage:rolleyes:

#13 Guest_jon61484_*

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Posted 05 August 2003 - 07:02 PM

yeah, I'm going to rejet it later this week. (fri or sat)

My carb is a 2100 and this is a 2150. But when inspecting the one I have when I pulled it from the car, there is a return to the gas tank, as well as for some of the other emissions things.

the EGR on the monarch was a seperate baseplate not attached to the carb, but on the studs, and I plan on using the subaru's EGR. (I've decided)

also, return line to the gas tank was super easy to spot on my carb, and it's in the back. Return line, evap , fuel in, but I'm still not understanding about the vac advance? Does this carb even have a vacuum advance? What is it?

#14 Guest_Caboobaroo_*

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Posted 06 August 2003 - 12:31 AM

it should have a vacuum advance. On the Monarch Jon, look at the disty. There should be a hose coming off of the side of it somewhere. This is your vacuum advance. What it does is at high RPMs, the vacuum helps retime your car so it runs at *peak* performance. find where it is located on the carb and run a hose from the carb to the disty in your car.

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