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SOHC 2.5 cam seal/belt/idler/sprocket replacement parts and procedure?


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4 replies to this topic

#1 uniberp

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Posted 18 April 2005 - 03:24 PM

I'm looking at parts online for the complete 105,000 mile maintenance replacement of the cam belt on my 1999 SOHC ForestrL, and I will need to do the cam and crankshaft seals also.

Will I need any special pullers for the gears?
Please review the list of parts below for any omissions and advise me.

2 cam seals $14
1 crank seal $7-8
1 Timing Belt $71
1 Tensioner $123
1 Idler - upper right $46
1 Idler - lower right $31

Do I need to replace the cam and crank sprockets?

(Prices are from drivewire)
Who would offer the best price on these parts?

Is there a concise procedure written up anywhere, specific to the 1999 SOHC?

Thanks in advance.
Mpergiel99foresterLelmhurstil

#2 blitz

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Posted 18 April 2005 - 05:49 PM

I'm looking at parts online for the complete 105,000 mile maintenance replacement of the cam belt on my 1999 SOHC ForestrL, and I will need to do the cam and crankshaft seals also.

Will I need any special pullers for the gears?

The simple answer is that if you're not able to get them off without a puller, then you'll need a puller. Try it without first and keep your fingers crossed. On my vehicle, they just slipped right off.

Please review the list of parts below for any omissions and advise me.

2 cam seals $14
1 crank seal $7-8
1 Timing Belt $71
1 Tensioner $123
1 Idler - upper right $46
1 Idler - lower right $31

There are 3 idlers, 1 toothed & 2 smooth. Also this would be a good oportunity to replace the water pump & oil pump O-ring.

Do I need to replace the cam and crank sprockets?

Only if they're damaged in any way (which shouldn't be likely).

(Prices are from drivewire)
Who would offer the best price on these parts?

Sounds like you're doing pretty good as you are.

Is there a concise procedure written up anywhere, specific to the 1999 SOHC?

I did mine using a factory manual (essentially useless). Use blue Loctite & 130 ft./lbs. to re-assemble the crank pulley (damper). Use anti-sieze to re-assemble all other fasteners.

Draw yourself a diagram of how the cam belt snakes through. Detail the idler locations & identity. Also remove the old cam belt with the engine rotated so that the marks on each of the three sprockets are at high noon (freshen the marks if necessary).

Thanks in advance.
Mpergiel99foresterLelmhurstil



#3 blitz

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Posted 18 April 2005 - 08:56 PM

Addendum: don't rush and mess something up. Just take your time, and post questions to USMB as they arise. Stop and go buy the correct tool to continue the job if you find the need to.

There are people here that helped me through my front-end teardown, because I asked questions.

#4 nickb21

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Posted 19 April 2005 - 12:22 PM

I hadn't looked at endwrench for a while, but I noticed this was on the "current issue" http://endwrench.com...BeltEWWin05.pdf hope it will be of some help. I won't need to do a tbelt for ~35k.

theotherskip (i think) has a nice guide for t-belt/headgasket/clutch replacement but it's for DOHC.

--N

#5 uniberp

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Posted 20 April 2005 - 01:37 PM

Thanks. The straightforward approach is appreciated. I'll get my tools, time, and nerve together. That and a diagram and I should be able to get through pretty confidently.

The simple answer is that if you're not able to get them off without a puller, then you'll need a puller. Try it without first and keep your fingers crossed. On my vehicle, they just slipped right off.


There are 3 idlers, 1 toothed & 2 smooth. Also this would be a good oportunity to replace the water pump & oil pump O-ring.

I did mine using a factory manual (essentially useless). Use blue Loctite & 130 ft./lbs. to re-assemble the crank pulley (damper). Use anti-sieze to re-assemble all other fasteners.

Draw yourself a diagram of how the cam belt snakes through. Detail the idler locations & identity. Also remove the old cam belt with the engine rotated so that the marks on each of the three sprockets are at high noon (freshen the marks if necessary).






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