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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Axles, differential and transfer case removal


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9 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_unix_*

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Posted 01 August 2003 - 09:06 PM

Before I turn this '92 Loyale parts car to the recycler, I want to remove a few more parts. I already removed much -- mostly for myself, and a few for sale.

My question is, where do I start?
If I remove the axles, will I still be able to put the wheels back on and then move on to the differential? I don't want it to fall on me. I crawled under it today while it's on ramps, and it looked like the axles did not have anything to do with suspension, just rotating the wheels.
The Haynes manual talks about rear driveaxle removal and says a pin must be knocked out. I already unbolted 5 bolts on each side at the differential which appear to hold the driveaxles. Are the front driveaxles identical to rear ones?

Secondly, where is the 4WD transfer case located? Should I start with that instead?

What about the differential? Mine is 2WD only, the source car is 4WD, does this mean the differentials are compatible? Do differentials ever wear out, should I even bother with this part? Does this 4WD also have a front differential?

What about the rear driveshaft? Is the one from 4WD compatible with 2WD?

Thanks for clarifying this stuff. The Haynes manual is confusing enough, maybe Chilton's is better. Sometimes Haynes is so frustrating, it seems it is only fit to start fires with. I sorely need FSM of course.

I plan to take this vehicle to 300,000 miles (it already has 180,000 on all but the engine) and want to ensure I have all the parts to take me there.

#2 Guest_Adam N.D.J._*

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Posted 01 August 2003 - 10:32 PM

Ohkay. Where to start here. I'll start with the x-fer case, so you don't spend the next month looking for it. It's built into the tranny, the front differential, tranny, and x-fer case are all one unit. The axle have a pin in the cup part that you have to punch out. The bolts on the side of the diff are for removing the carrier from the case. Don't need to pull them out. The outside end of the drive axles on the front do infact hold on the hub, it has a spindle that goes through the bearings in the knuckle and the hub bolts onto that spindle, so it you pull the front shafts it won't roll. The rear you can remove, there are pins at both end you have to knock out. The front axles will work between the new cars. What year is the 2wd? if'n the two cars are of the same body style, then the parts will interchange, might have to fiddle things around a little to get them to work. Hope this helps you out some. If you have any more questions, let us know. Catch ya Laters.

#3 Guest_oobnuker_*

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Posted 01 August 2003 - 10:32 PM

I don't think there is any way to remove the front axles and put wheels back on the car...The fronts are like a "female-male" axle setup, where the rears are like "female-female" - I don't know any other way to explain it. The front rotors slide over the stub of the front axle...

You need to knock out the pin, undo the big castle nut (26mm I think), remove washer, conical washer, knock out the pin on the transmission side (Notice the holes on the axle are different, one is beveled and one is not. You need to knock the pin out from the beveled side out.) From here you need to loosen your choice of suspension and steering components to gain clearance to yank the axle out. I needed to use a large gear puller to push the axle stub through the hub and control arm.

But you'll see pretty quickly, that there is nothing for the hub/rotor to attach to without the axle in place...Which means no wheel.

#4 Guest_calebz_*

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Posted 01 August 2003 - 10:44 PM

You can remove the front axles and still put the wheels back on.. it will be a cast iron bitch to move though.. I did this on my wrecked 88, and it took me edrach and his friend to push it out of the garage and into the driveway, which was alittle bit of a downhill slope.. does not move well without the fron axles.

#5 Guest_oobnuker_*

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Posted 01 August 2003 - 10:47 PM

HUH?? How? You never gave up THAT detail...

#6 Guest_Adam N.D.J._*

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Posted 02 August 2003 - 01:01 AM

It's a bit of a pain, but you can have it so that the caliper holds the rotor which hold the hub in place, things don't exactly turn to well though. As pointed out, there is a lot of ugly noises that come from it. You can easier if you have a stub from a broken axle to put in there. I've run cars rear wheel by doing this on several occasions. Catch ya Laters.

#7 Guest_unix_*

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Posted 02 August 2003 - 09:26 AM

That clarifies this. The reason for asking, if I remove the driveaxles, if I won't be able to move it, I won't be able to put it on ramps which I am using. I pull it onto ramps with a car and chains. Looks like I have to remove everything from under it (tranny) and then move onto axles. It also looks like I have to knock out the pins before I do anything else axle-wise and for that I need the ramps.

Another question - would it be easier to turn the whole car on its side? Meaning remove the wheels and axles on the right side, then turn it so the right side is down?

#8 Guest_thealleyboy_*

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Posted 02 August 2003 - 02:05 PM

Uni:

I hope you've had a talk with your junkman. Else, you might be stuck with the carcass a little longer than you want.

Alot boils down to whether you want to pay to remove it, or make it somewhat easy for the junkman to hitch it up. If disposal cost is a concern, then you have to decide which axle is worth more to you in terms of parts.

If you have a 2wd (non disk rears), the decision is pretty simple. Keep the fronts, and have them tow on the rear axle. The rear drums are the only thing worth saving, and even those are not all that desirable.

If you have a 4wd, it gets a little trickier, since both axles have some good things worth saving. I ususally keep the fronts and leave the rear axles (without differential). You might consider arranging to have it hauled on a flatbed with pull chains, with the car supported by jackstands, even if you get charged to have it towed.

Your best bet is to find a scrap metal dealer. Those folks are usually the easiest to work with when you are doing a serious butcher job on a car.

good luck, John

#9 Guest_SubaruJunkie_*

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Posted 02 August 2003 - 03:01 PM

Ok... lets see if I can clarify some things. Adam did a good job pointing out some differences and so did everyone else. I didnt get a chance to read every reply, so i'll just start from scratch.

The only way to remove the front CV Joints (axles) and keep the car rolling is to install the outer shaft from a broken CV. If you remove the CV from the front axle, then your brake rotor will have nothing to mount to, and therefore your wheels will not be operatable. If you can live without the CV's, i would leave them. The CV's will work on your 2WD Subaru, even tho the donor car is 4WD.

The rear driveshaft is NOT the same as your 2WD because your 2WD has no rear drive shaft. Your 2WD also does not have a rear diff either. Both your 2WD and 4WD parts car do have front diff's, but if the tranny on your 2WD car is working, and you have no plans to convert your 2WD to 4WD, then you have no need to tear into the tranny or even remove the tranny. Unless you plan to sell it.

You CAN however, remove the tranny and keep the car rolling.

Also, in order to remove the diff, you need to unbolt the two bolts holding the rear end of the diff to the diff holder, and then there are 4 more bolts toward the front of the diff that need to be removed. You also need to remove both CV Joints and the drive shaft. The diff is a pain in the rump roast to remove, and very heavy as well... so make sure the diff is supported by a jack or jack stand.

In order to remove the rear CV's, you should not have to unbolt anything. There are 2 pins in each CV, one at each end of the CV and it holds the CV in place, remove both pins and spend some time playing with the CV's until they come out.

Does your 2WD and 4WD have the same engine? SPFI, MPFI or Carb? Is either of them Turbo. If your 2WD or 4WD is turbo, and the other is not, then you get into complications... but if they have the same engine and tranny, then everything else should bolt up.

-Brian

#10 Guest_unix_*

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Posted 03 August 2003 - 12:25 AM

That explains all. Then it's simple: The only other thing I need for my 2WD off that parts 4WD are the front driveaxles. (I should have realized that FWD car has no rear differential or driveshaft). For my 2WD, I don't need rear CVs either.

I already looked at the pins to knock out to remove the driveaxles. With the engine out, they are very visible. My 1/4" punch was just slightly too big so I am looking for a metric punch set.

I did find a local scrap metal recycler, they can probably take it.




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